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ON RIGHT FROM LOND.

LE-FRITH, AND MANCHESTER, 187 Miles.

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To Ashbourne, 15 miles. Ashford Hall, Hon. G. H. Cavendish. In passing from Ashford to Wardlow, a view is obtained of Monsal Dale, one of the most delightful scenes in Derbyshire.

At Whestone, one mile

Castleton. This town derives its name from a castle, the remains of which are situated on a steep rock. It is supposed to have been erected by William Peveril, the natural son of the Conqueror. It has been held at different times by various distinguished individuals; among others, by Simon de Montfort, and John of Gaunt. Owing to its situation, it was almost impregnable. This castle has given its title to Sir Walter Scott's Peveril of the Peak, and forms the scene of a considerable portion of the events of that popular novel. The vicinity of Castleton abounds in wild and romantic scenery, For centuries the only acces sible road to Buxton and Chapel-en-le-Frith was by a deep descent called the Winnets or Windgates, from the stream of air that always sweeps through the chasm. Dark, rugged, and perpendicular precipices are seen on each side of the road. At one of the sudden turns of the road to the left, a most beautiful view of Castleton vale opens to the eye. Among the curiosities in the vicinity are the Peak Cavern or Devil's Cave, a magnificent and extraordinary work of nature, situated about 100 yards from the village. The mine called the Speedwell Level; the waterfall in the navigation mine which falls 30 yards; Mam-Tor, or the Shivering Mountain, 800 feet above the level of the valley, the summit exhibiting traces of a Roman encampment and of two barrows; the ancient lead mines of Odin, at the southern foot of Mam-Tor; Eldon Hole, 3 miles distant, between 70 and 80 yards in depth; Bradwell cavern, remarkable for the beauty and richness of the stalactites it contains, and the Blue John mine, situated on the side of Tree Cliff, opposite Mam Tor, the only mine in which this beautiful material is found in masses of suffi cient size for working. Its recesses are supposed to be connected with a series of caverns ex tending over an area of many square miles, and including Eldon Hole, Peak cavern, Speed we!!, and Bagshaw's cavern at Bradwell. The charge for exploring the mine is, for one person, 2s.; for three, 4s. 6d. ; for four, 58.; and 1s. per head for every additional person, make an additional charge if a Bengal light be used. The churchyard of Hathersage, 6 miles The guides from Castleton, is the reputed burial-place of Little John the companion of Robin Hood. The

232 LONDON TO DERBY, MATLOCK-BATH, MANCHESTER, &c-Continued

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WIRKSWORTH is a place of great antiquity, and the capital of the lead-mine district. The church is a handsome Gothic structure of the fourteenth century, and contains some interesting monuments and tombs. The lead-mines afford the chief means of employment, but there are cotton, hosiery, hat, and some other manufactories, in the neighbourhood.

The Barmote Courts for determining disputes among the miners, and offences against their ancient laws, are held here twice a-year; and here is deposited the ancient brass dish used as a standard for measuring the ore. Sir John Gell, the

road passes through Hope-Dale, a beautiful vale, in which is a very ancient village where a church existed before the Conquest.

* 4 miles from Tideswell is the pleasant village of Eyam, remarkable as the spot where the devotedness of Monpesson and his wife was exhibited during the great plague of 1666. The disease, which was conveyed by a box of cloth, spread with an astonishing rapidity, and carried off 250 persons out of a population of 330. Mr. Monpesson, who then held the living of Eyam. resisted all solicitations to desert his flock. To prevent as much as possible the effects of contagion, he closed the church, and preached to the people in a narrow dell, called Cucklett-dale, at a little distance from the town. For seven months, during which the pestilence continued its ravages, this devoted pastor watched over Eyam. He retained his health, but his wife fell a victim to the fury of the disease, and was buried in the churchyard, where her tombstone yet remains. Miss Seward was born at Eyam, or which her father was the rector. At a place on Eyam Moor, known as Wet-withins, is a druidical circle, consisting of sixteen stones, enclosing a space about ninety feet in diameter.

Parliamentary general, resided at Hopton, in this parish, but the ancient family seat is now pulled down. Pop. of town 1851, 2632.

Two miles from Wirksworth is Cromford, situated in a deep valley, enclosed on three sides by lofty limestone rocks. This town owes its prosperity to the cotton manufacture. The late Sir Richard Arkwright, the inventor of the spinning frame, erected here a spacious cotton-mill, now occupied by Messrs R. and P. Arkwright, who employ about 800 persons. To the left, after passing through Scarthin-Nick (a perforated rock), near Cromford, is Willersley Castle, a spacious mansion erected by Sir R. Arkwright, and now possessed by his grandson. The gardens and grounds are open on Mondays and Thursdays. Two miles from Cromford is the village of Matlock on the Derwent, a favourite summer resort for invalids and tourists. Matlockdale, in which the village stands, extends for two miles north and south, and is bounded on each side by steep rocks, whose naked sides rise to the height of about 300 feet. The Derwent flows through the dale, and its banks are lined with trees, except where the rocks rise almost perpendicularly from the water. Of these the most striking is the High Tor, which rises to a height of 396 feet. Opposite to it is Masson, a rock of greater elevation than the Tor, but inferior to it as a picturesque object. The mineral springs and beautiful scenery of Matlock have caused a great influx of visitors, for whose accommodation excellent inns, lodging-houses, and bathing establishments have been erected. The buildings are grouped in a singular manner up the mountain side. Matlock is not only a place full of interest in itself, but is also the centre of a district every part of which has its attractions. The usual amusement of strangers consists in visiting the caverns and mines, the petrifying wells and the rocks Of the caverns, the Rutland cavern is the largest, and, when lighted up, has a very magnificent appearance. The Cumberland cavern is the most interesting to the geologist. The Devonshire cavern is remarkable for its flat roof and perpendicular sides. The Fluor cavern is the one from which the fluor spar is obtained. The Speedwell mine contains fine stalactites and spars; and in the Sidemine is a grotto, in which are to be found crystallizations of calcareous spar of unequalled beauty and richness. At the museums, the mineralogical productions are on sale, formed into vases and ornamental designs, and specimens of spars, fossils, &c. may be purchased.

The walks in the neighbourhood of Matlock are very delightful. The summit of Masson commands most attractive views over a vast extent of country. Two miles from Matlock, on the Wirksworth road, are the crags of Stonehouse, commanding a magnificent prospect. About the same distance is Bonsall, a picturesque mining village, with an ancient church and a curious old cross. The village of Old Matlock, two miles from Matlock-Bath, is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in the lead-mines and in the cotton manufacture. The" Romantic Rocks" are a very interesting series of masses and fragments, which appear as if just torn asunder, the angles exactly corresponding, so that if the spectator could by any possibility move them back, they would fit with the greatest nicety. Altogether, at Matlock the tourist, the geologist, and the mi neralogist, may enjoy advantages which few other places can afford.

234 LONDON TO MANCHESTER, DERBY, MATLOCK-BATH &c.—Continued.

Eight miles north-west by west is Haddon Hall, the seat of the Duke of Rutland, situated on a bold eminence on the east side of the Wye, and affording a complete picture of an ancient baronial residence. No part of the building is of a date later than the sixteenth century. The tower over the gateway on the east side of the upper quadrangle is supposed to have been built in the reign of Edward III. The chapel is of the time of Henry VI.; and the tower at the north-west corner, on which are the arms of the Vernons, &c. is nearly of the same period. The gallery was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. All the principal rooms, except the gallery, were hung with loose arras, a great part of which still remains. The doors were concealed behind the hangings, but there were great iron hooks by which the tapestry could be held back, to avoid the inconvenience of lifting it up every time of passing in and out. The workmanship of these doors is very rude and ill-fashioned. The chaplain's room is an interesting old place, and contains a number of objects calculated to convey an idea of the mode of living two centuries ago. The park was ploughed up and cultivated about sixty years since; but in the vicinity of the mansion there is still a sweeping group of luxuriant old trees. The gardens are composed of terraces ranging one above another, each having a sort of stone balustrade. The prospects from the leads and the watch-tower are extremely fine.

Haddon was, soon after the Conquest, the property of the Avenells, from whom it came to the Vernons. The last male heir of this family, Sir John Vernon, was commonly called the King of the Peak, on account of his hospitality and magnificent mode of living. He died in the seventh year of Elizabeth, and Haddon passed by marriage with one of his daughters into the possession of the family of Manners, then Earls of Rutland, and was their principal seat till the beginning of the last century, when it was superseded by Belvoir Castle in Leices tershire. In the reign of Queen Anne, the first Duke of Rutland maintained seven score servants in this ancient seat of old English hospitality.

The Duke of Rutland has a shooting seat at Stanton Woodhouse, in Darley Dale, a short distance from Haddon.

Twelve miles north by west of Matlock is Chatsworth, the magnificent man-sion of the Duke of Devonshire. The public entrance to the domain is near the pretty village of Edensor, where there is an excellent inn for the accommodation of visitors. Chatsworth was among the domains given by William the Conqueror to William Peveril, his natural son;* but in the reign of Elizabeth, it was purchased by Sir W. Cavendish, who commenced a mansion house here, which, after his death, was completed by his widow, the famous Countess of Shrewsbury. The present building was nearly completed by the first Duke of Devonshire previous to 1706, but a wing was added by the late (sixth) Duke. It is composed of four nearly equal sides, with an open quadrangulai court within. The middle of the court is occupied by a marble statue of Orion, seated on the back of a dolphin, round which the water of a fountain is continually playing. The rooms of this palace are spacious and lofty, some of thern hung with tapestry, and adorned with beautiful carvings, executed by Gibbons and Watson. The pictures are not numerous, but there is a valuable col

See Scott's Peveril of the Peak, chap. 1. p. 1.

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