Imatges de pàgina

The writer must consider himself greatly indebted to to the performers for the able manner in which they acquitted themselves.

VICTORIA.---This excellent theatre is conducted with still greater spirit than before. Shylock,Hamlet," The Provoked Husband,and Sheridan Knowls's admirable play of the Hunchback," and " The Wife,” in both of which he appears; have been successfully brought out.

T'he entertainments have been varied by the grotesque performances of two German posture masters whose evolutions are extraordinary---one of them personates a windmill.

OLYMPIC..--Madame has been as usual on the alert to introduce as many novelties as practicable, and has succeeded in pleasing her audiences. They showed a great want of gallantry a few evenings back, in grumbling at her absence, through indisposition; she however svon made friends with them on her re appearance, One of the recent novelties “ Mind your Letters," with Keeley as Slop, gained much approbation.

At SADLERS Wells, the most attractive piece of late has been “ The Knights of St. John.The management have spared no pains to render it attractive, and their exertions have generally been crowned with

" speaking our vernacular tongue or any other, is the faculty of reproducing sounds and associations of sounds in millions of combinations, not to be acquired in fifty lessons, but from hearing for a length of time. the same sounds and associations of sounds in millions of combinations.

He thus introduces the facts which came to his know. ledge relative to the acquisition of language, and the inferences he draws from them.

“ Seeing, on one side, ignorant men obtain the natural aim I hat men propose in trying to learn a lauguage ; when, on the other hand, persons who had already received some kind of education, obtained but the contrary results, notwithstanding their masters and their books; I began to suspect that theory does not teacher practice, in other words, that Graminar, as a collection of rules and exercises, does not teach language; and, also, that bnoks placed at first in the hands of the learvers, were the cause of their bad pronunciation.

To turn this last suspicion into conviction, I tried some experiments, and found that children and adults could pronounce, afier a. few attempts, the phrase-comment vous, portez-vous ?-nearly as well as myself, merely from hearing me previous to seeing the phrase written; but that, on the coutrary, it was most difficult for ihem to obtain the pronunciation, if hearing the master and reading at the same time, and more so still, if reading previous to bear. ing the master; which is the case when they prepare exercises, translate English into French, and, therefore, look for words in the dictionary."

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“ I found also that three indispensable exercises take place with infants :

First : Heariug the spoken language for a length of time, either as a translation of their own language of cries, or as the expression, of the impressions intended to be made on them. Secondly: Altempts at repeating, the consequence of which, from the nature of our constitutive organs, is imitation. Thirdly: The decomposition of the eleinentary, or primitively acquired phrases, into their simplest elements (The words) not word by word, but by the reproduciion of the same words into new associations.'


" Now, who has not seen that the children of ignorant people, who continually live with their parents, speak as the latter ; ihat genteel children, surrounded by persons who speak their language purely and elegantly, always betray the gentility of their birth by iheir pronunciation, their expressions, phraseology, and tones of voice, without having had occasion to study grammar."

Several similar instances are here detailed which we omit.

“ All these facts proved to me that children, at the age of ten, would never say-I is, I goes, I does, who never hear; ! is, ! goes, I does; and finally that grammar is the fruit of practice and observation, when the models for imitation are correct, and depends and rests upon time the greater master. I bave known English persons who knew not a verb from an adjective, and yet could speak English elegantly. I have koown others to be quite conversant with the rules and definitions, who could parse any phrase, and yet did not speak better than their neighbours."

,Méthode Marcellienne, or Méthode Naturelle Thé. orisée," by M. Annibal Marcel.-(2nd Notice).

We introduced the subject of Mr. Marcel's system of tuition in the last number, at the same time urging our readers to an attentive examination of its merits.It now remains to detail the peculiarities, as well as point out the principal features which serve to distinguish it from the most popular of the systems generally adopted.

To those acquainted with the usual school routine, (our present allusion extends only to the acquisition of living language, without entering on the general question of education), the disappointments resulting from the ordinary course of instruction must be familiar: those who have been accustomed to the book-systems of Dufief, Hamilton, or Jacotot, must have at last perceived their inadequacy to impart a perfect knowledge of the conversational language. All must have found one dernier resort, inevitable—a sojourn in the French capital, or a constant communication in this country with natives of France.-Hence, a system founded on principles so novel, adopting aural means of communication—not writen ones; words in a state of combination, or phrases, first offered to the learner,-not isolated words to learn by rote; and thirdly, the method of " decomposition," or varying the combinations of words in every possible form; instead of the old mode of parrot-learning a string of idioms, afterwards found inapplicable.-a system exbibiting as this does, 30 bold a striking-out from the old worn track, puts forth claims to examination, sufficient to render it a subject of national interest.

In setting forth his views, we shall chiefly quote Mr. Marcel's own words, as being best calculated to exemplify his views and motives,

Mr Marcel lays down as an axiom, that

“ After making the many observations, above mentioned, on the progressive development of the maternal language, I then studied ibe effect of the spoken language, on persons already acquainted with the language of books, by reading aloud to them, and found that those persons who pronounced best, could translate my spoken language, when I spoke slow, but could nut when I spoke in natural lime; but most of them did not hesitate to say: If you give me the book, I think, I shall be able to translate as well as yourself, but, merely from hearing you read, I cannot. No wonder They were trying to translate with the memory of their eyes, not of their ears; they tried to read the words as I spoke them. Pinerefore concluded, what accidental experiments had hinted to me before ; 1st. That the eyes read associations of letters, which do not paint the pronunciation of a foreign language, except a pronunciation imitated from that of our own. 2nd. That the ears cannot be acquainted with a pronunciation that the eyes have learnt; and, consequently, that if the English learner wishes to pronounce French correctly, he must be made to acquire it from heariog, before he is allowed to read; for, books placed at first in the bands of the learner, will be the cause of a bad pronunciation."

The following instances strongly point out the paramount necessity of the actual presence of a well qualified teacher,

In coptiouing my observations on the English acquainted with the written language, I perceived that the pronunciation of a foreign language offers greater difficulties than I had thought of before; I found that it is most difficult to interpret the duration of sound, and even to imitate it, except wbeo offered to the ear in the extreme; that French people, for instance, are a long time before they can appreciate or measure with the ear, the physical difference between heat and hit ; between these and this; and greens and grins; that a Frenchman would as readily say, I don't like your grins, madame, as I don't like your greens, meaning the laiter and that English persons would feel it dificult to distinguish with the ear between-J'ai vu cos chevaux, and J'ai vu sepi chevaurLa grace est sans affectation, and La grasse est pleine d'affectalion ;

Pas eneure pour vous, and Passe encore pour vous -and a thousand cases of the kind.”

Similar instances are thus adduced, and an ingenious explanation given of the astonishing facility with which the ear catches the slightest shade of sound. After an examination of “ natural facts,” Mr. Marcel then observes :

"I made exercises, not of sulables, not of words, but of phrases, which, though detached from one another, still retain some family connection, as expressing common-places of conversation, to which sort of language I entirely directed my attention. The learning of these phrases cannot rest upon material want, bot we must contrive to create a moral ope; that is, interest : and the only way to create iuterest, is to convince the learners, at the first lesson, that they can learn, notwithstanding the great and numerous difficulties before mentioned ; that they are learning in the most natural way possible; and that no effort of imagination, intelligence, or even memory is required from them; but merely, as nature indicales, attention, constancy, and perseverance. They must not be deceived by being told, that a l'anguage can be acquired in a Jimited number of lessons ; but they must be encouraged to make the second step, by being really taught some French at the first.

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" If the learners had not previously studied French, through the medium of books, the false representative of pronunciation, the results must be, and generally are, after six months, with gine persons out of ten, the faculty of interpreting the language of sounds, a good pronunciation, an abundance of phraseology, though not at commaad; understanding most of French books, newspapers, and casy comédies bourgeoises; except, however, expressions of localities, and characteristic of national habits, manners, and turn of minds; they will be able to write pretty well in French ; but they must not expect to be, even after one year, what is called a perfect French scholar : (I speak here of the generality of learners, uot of those, who with a great desire of learning, have nothing else to do).”

We conclude our quotations by the following, in which we discern a sentiment actuated by none but an enlarged and liberal mind.

“ I hope to be able to prove, in the following numbers, that the step which I have taken, is the only rational introduction to the science of grammar; and that I considered that a method, to become a national one, must be calculated for the masses, and not for adults only, or for such as know the grammar of their own language ; and that I have had in view, ihe grand question of teaching living languages, that is; of making the learners better acquainted with their own native congue, of developing their reasoning powers by accustoming them to abserve, to compare facts, classify them, and form judgments of their own, or, in a word, to make grammarians of thein."

It remains to be seen from the results of his practice, and from his forthcoming work, (for the above professes only to be an introductory one) whether his theory is to be considered in the light of a merely bold innovation, or as one based upon sound principles.

s The Teeth in relation to Beauty, Voice, and Health," by John Nicholles, Surgeon Dentist.-Hamilton and Co.

We received this work too late in the month for a detailednotice, but from the judgement we are enabled to form, after a hasty perusal, must pronounce it to be dictated by great experience, and sound practical knowledge. It is writen-particularly the first three. divisions, relative to the effect which the teeth exert

on the Personal Appearance, the Voice, and the Health, in a popular and original style, and mostly free from technicalities. We strongly recommend it to the attention of our female readers, as it is more particularly addressed to the ladies; mothers should consider it encumbent on them to peruse it.

The following extract will be found to contain much valuable information.

“ Tooth-Powder$.-BRUSHES.CLEANING THE TEETH. --So exemplary are the habits of our fair country women as to cleanliness that it would be superfluous for me to enforce the necessity of observing it in regard to the teeth. Some errors, however, may be pointed out, and some instructions given, which, though extremely simple in themselves, may yet be followed with advantage.

There is an absurd notion very prevalent that tootb.powders are of no use, and that the teeth require only to be washed with lotions composed of tincture of myrrh, or of spirits of wine, saturated with camphor; some even go so far as to deny the necessity of the tooth brush and deem it sufficient to every purpose of cleanliness if the month be rinsed out with cold water. To ihe admirers of such absurdities, all arguments being perfectly unavailing, I think I cannot do better than recommend the wonderful old recipe of rub. bing the teeth with a sage leaf, which perhaps they may believe, as many simple folks before them have believed, will preserve those organs uninjured to the last.

All lotions are perfectly useless, as far as the gums are concerned, and for this simple reason, it is impossible to preserve and pickle living matter. When lotions act upon the other portions of the body, it is upon the principle of evaporation, which principle cannot be brought to bear upon the parts in question. If the object of lotions be to stimulate, they are equally ineffective, friction, with an elastic brush, being the only way, by which a beneficial stimulus can be applied. It is not many years since that, in de fiance of those obvious elements of pathology a very fashionable dentist, in the plenitude of his ignorance, actually proposeu to tan the gums! to tan living matter !-By way of explaining and justifying this admirable system to his dupes, it was his custom to compare the human gums to dogskin, and that there might be no mistake in the matter, he prioted and published his opinioos. Need I add that this charlatao amassed a fortune ?

Upon the teeth themselves Jotions can have no effect exccpt as chemical agents, and as such they mnst act perniciously. The use even of diluted tincture of myrrh, pleasant as this gum undoubtedly is from its peculiar fragraoce, and though it is incapable of any chemical agency, is yet attended with considerable or ischief. This tincture is a solution of the myrrb in spirits of wine, a teaspoonful of which, being poured into a tumbler of water, renders the latter turbid, forming a toid of a milky appearance ; the change takes place in cousequence of the decomposition of the spirituous solution, by which means the fine particles of the gum float in the water, and in rinsing Ilse mouth they become deposited on the teeth. I have seen a whole set of teeth so incrusted with myrrh, from its loug continued use, as to defy all attempts to remove it until re-dissolved by the application of aclohol. It must be evident that a nucleus thus formed must tend inaterially to the accumulation of the unşightly and offensive substance called tartar, and that it is utterty impossible to have clean and healthy teeth by the use of such a lotion.

Tooth-powder is absolutely necessary to the perfect condition of !he mouth, but, to be of any service, it must be used the first thing in the inorning. The concretion, which is deposited in the night upon the teeth, and which is the residuuin of the evaporated saliva, hardens in the course a few hours, and is irrenovable by any dentifrice that would not at the same time destroy the teeth ibemselves.

All acid preparations, such as cream of tartar, and all powders which consist of hard angular particles, and therefore act by tritoration, should be avoided. On this last account charcoal is particularly objectionable, in addition to which it lodges in the space formed by a fold of the gum and the neck of the tooth, where ii presents a livid circle, destructive of that roseate hae, which is so characteristic of health and beauty.

Teeth are not to be cleaned either by chemical agency, or, as people imagine by the process of mechanical abrasion; any attempt io act opon them in either way would be equally injurious. The rationale of the use of any depirifice is, that it forms a paste with the deposition from the saliva already mentioned, and, thus combined, the whole is easily expelled by rinsing the mouth out carefully with water. Simple, however, as this operation is, I seldom see it perfectly performed evop by the wost fastidious ; generally speaking, the water is thrown into the mouth, and as quickly ejected, without being of the slightest use, whereas the cheeks, lips, and tongue, should all be put in inotion, so as io mix this newly formed paste with the fluid, and propel the latter into every inter. stice for that purpose. The brush should then be washed, and again applied io che teeth to free them from whatever may remain LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS



of the powder, and the mouth a second time well rinsed. It will be adviseable also to clean the tongue with a scraper, more par. ticularly when the papillæ are rough, and the stomach happens to be out of order. In all cases I would recommend the use of tepid water in preference to cold, as being more in consonance with our grneral feelings.

"The Comic Offering for 1834,"

We are lovers of fun and merriment, and heartily do we greet the laughing harbinger of bleak, but social winter; its quips and cranks, and odd conceits are the welcomer when nature wears a dreary aspect, and we are thrown upon our own resources to diffuse life and conviviality into the domestic circle.

The pieces from the pen of the editress please us much, she evinces a genuine zest for the humorous; several of the contributions also deserve much praise ; among which, we may mention those of Miss Isabel Hill; the writer of “ Timothy Blushmore;" the author of “ Absurdities ;' Omega," &c. We have now to take Miss Sheridan to task, for allowing to creep into her otherwise amusing annual, some absolutely pointless articles: this we would fain attribute to the importunity of some goodnatured friend. The wood cut illustrations

are generally well conceived, but the execution of them must be improved if Miss S. wishes to continue in our good graces.

- As our readers are particularly fond of “ something new,” we extract the following for their amusement.



[The rhymes of the folloning little wbim, are gradually in. creased, by an additional one, in every couplet ; so that in the last two lines, every word has its rhyme ia the corresponding line.]

Le Petit Courrier des Dames''-" Journal des Dames et des Modes, L'Observatour des Modes et L'Indiscret”- '--" Le Follet Courrier des Salons''- " Le Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.

Dresses.--Black tulle is much employed for evening dresses, they are with a sprinkling of bouquets, or in colonades, embroidered in coloured silks.

It is worn over black satin under dresses. We have seen a very pretty one done in large bouquets of roses. The bou. quets are larger towards the hem of the skirt; on short sleeves, a large bouquet only, which covered them. The corsage was draped ; the ceinture of figured black satin.

Satin, or pou de soie redingotes, have the front of the skirt ornamented with a rather complicated work, composed of the liserés, the inverted dents, and similar ornaments of the sort. Pelerines forming a point in front and behind, and fastened under the ceinture, are adapted to these dresses, a double point falls over the shoulder. The plaits of the skirt are made in double crevés to give the folds fullness and amplitude.

Silk dresses embroidered silk of the same colour, are tvo high in price and good taste, not to remain in high favour this winter.

Several pointed corsages are thus disposed; the plaits are gathered up on the shoulder and extend to the ceinture, and spreading out in the shape of an open fan, they are separated by a narrow band.

The ceintures of evening dresses with straight cor. sages without points, are formed by a rordelière twice turned round the waist and loosely fastened in front.

Mantillas of gros de Naples are still worn.

CLOAKS ---Notwithstanding the mild weather, it is surprising to see the number of cloaks already in use, as also to notice the beauty of the materials employed in their composition.

Many are in figured designs on new tissues, either. of the same colour as the ground, or in bright and con. trasting shades in the Turkish fashion.

Several new shapes in imitation of the winter costumes of the inhabitants of the North has caused an entire revolution in this part of ladies' attire.

The Yermeloff, forming both pelisse and vitchoura, is a most elegant cloak.

The Boyard is drawn tighter round the waist, and trimmed with furs. Our plates will successively indi. cate these two models when produced by the inventor. Embroidered black net is much employed for evening dresses. They are sprinkled with bouquets or in colonades embroidered in coloured silks. They are worn over black satin dresses. We have seen a very handsome one with a sprinkling of bouquets of large roses perfectly shaded, the bouquets enlarging towards the lower part of the hem; the short sleeves were covered by a large bouquet; the body was draped, the waistband of black satin figured rose and green. A garland of roses was intended to ornament the head-dress of this handsome toilet.

Satin redingotes have the front part of the skirt ornamented with a rather complicated kind of tress work formed by narrow piping forming inverted dents with the points turned back, and other ornaments of the same, description, Pelerines forming points in front and on

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But I still Trust to manage More, I Vow,

And Try to Thrust in rhymings Four! and Now
For Five! in What odd Deed a Bard, (if He

But Strive) may Not succeed, tho' Hard it Be ?
S To Press them Yet more Near my Mind I Fix,

No Less I'll Gel in Clear you'll find than Six!
s Dust Thou of Seven think Mean? if So 1 Here

Must Vow by Heaven! to Spleen I Owe Thy Fear!

Still I My Due must Claim, (For This Sly Smile) 8. S

Will you Try Too the Same.--Nor Miss My Style?

See Eight Cleur Done By Me: How Fill We Nine? 9

The Plate's Near Won I See,-Now Still Be Mine :
To Chime The Ten Feet Thro': You See I Chuse
True Rhyme :-Be Then Meet Due To Thee My



the back, and fastened under the waist-band; also a double point falling over the shoulders.

The plaits of skirts are made in double crevés, so as to be ample and reach to to the extremity of the hem, for a skirt should in no part be tight or sit close.

Black net scarfs are still very fashionable for evening or theatre dresses. Black net embroidered in gold and green, or red and gold gothic designs, is very elegant.

Some dress-makers have ventured pointed corsages' thus disposed : the plaits are gathered up on the should. ers and spreading out in a fan-like shape on the chest, separated by a narrow band.

In one of our large establishments, where we are often favored with a view of the novelties, we have seen dresses with large pelerines which might be called mantillas; they are very long behind, with small lappels, and trimmed all round with lace or black blond. They are composed of plain velvet of the same colour as the dress.

Some dress makers have tried them in terry velvets. This fashion is very rich and very elegant.

A new kind of reticule called châtelaines, which we mention here on account of its forming part of the dress, is becoming quite fashionable. It is suspended to the waist-band by means of an elegant hook either of gold, enamel, jet, or steel; this hook is made fast to the waistband, and is suspended by two chains which sustain the reticule at each corner; it is fastened by a spring lock. Many are closed by a small silk cord terminated by two tassels, which hangs on each side; a larger cord suspends it by means of a hook on the waistband. They are made in different manners, of black satin embroidered in coloured silks, of velvet, trimmed with lace, of black blond lined with rosecoloured silk. We haye seen one of green velvet, bordered by a gold embroidered wreath, in the middle a rich escutcheon in the middle of which was embroidered the cypher of the person for whom it was intended; at each corner, two handsome gold tassels; the lock, corners, and hook were of burnished gold relieved with enamel. These châtelaines are just large enough to contain a cambric handkerchief, a purse,

and few visiting cards.

ENSEMBLE De Toilette.—A ball dress composed of white saccarilla muslin, speckled with gold dots and narrow stripes; the corsage in crossed draperies, without points, and terminated by a treble gold tress, forming cordeliere; the head dress a turban of the same material as the dress, encircled with a torsade of lamée; a large gold mounted cameo over the forehead; necklace and ear-rings similar.

HATS.---Many evening hats are composed of satin covered with white blond-tulle, and ornamented with a flower or a white feather pinked same colour as the the satin. Some hats are covered with black net in. stead of white.

The shapes of some black satin hats, are lined with green, blue or lilac. The ribbons are half black, and half of the same colour as the material that lines the shape; some ribbons are in very small stripes, or in small quadrilles, black over green, rose, yellow or lilac; others are extremely wide and figured with damasked garlands.

For neglige hats, figured satins; satin-tulle imitating doble-lace; the most novel are white and orange

or black and orange, and for young ladies, blue and orange.

The shapes are half large, the trimming plain.
For evening hats, terry velvets with satin sripes.
For demi toilets, figured terry velvets.
Open shapes are worn with theatre dresses.

A pretty ornament for crape hats lined with satin, is a bouquet of three roses of different colours; other bouquets are formed by a rose and pinks speckled with various colours.

Some rose-coloured satin hats are lined with black velvet, the shape ribbed or rather arched in the centre by a black velvet band; the bow which ornaments the sides as also the cross ribbon which forms the ties, are of black velvet.

A handsome satin hat, was lined with brown velvet, ornamented with a brown branch of hyacinths, one half brown, the other of a yellow maïs-colour.

A sulphur-coloured silk hat, lined rose-coloured silk, iced, and ornamented with two feathers, one sulphurcoloured, and the other pale yellow, formed a most delicate and elegant head-dress.

A figured green satin hat, ornamented with green feathers tipped with white, and lined with satin.

Capotes.---Will still be the only head-dresses worn by ladies of the the fashionable world with neglige and walking dresses.

The colours generally adopted are apple-green, emerald-green, and lilac; the ties ties are usually trimmed with blond and a blond ornament inside the shape. Blue or rose-coloured capotes trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, are often bordered with a narrow black piping.

A charming little cap, was composed of black net, covered with embroidery in floss silk of a light green ; it was lined with green gauze; on the edge a ruche of tulle cut in thin and very pointed dents, which formed a very light trimming supported by a half wreath of green ribbons cut in leaves Other pieces of ribbon ends cut in the same manner, formed a double egret, placed on one side over the trimming. This egret, being separated in the middle by a ribbon bow, one half turned up on the head, inclined a little towards the forehead; the other descended towards the ear.

CAPS.---Although black caps have already become very common in the second rate magazine of modes, they are still likely to remain in favor this winter.

We have seen several black blond caps, also some of black tulle, lined with coloured gauze and ornamented with zephyr-roses.

Since the invasion of the sombre, it is diversified by all sorts of embroideries and ornaments. Small dots, green, rose, blue, lilac, &c., gives the black net an animated aspect ; besides which, a garland of dwarf roses of various shades, and assorted with the embroidery is placed on the centre over the forehead, and forms a demi-couronne on the back of the head; there is much gracefulness, and not a little coquettishness in these small' head-dresses. Sometimes in lieu of the garland of roses, a plait of green or blue ribbons with stripes or checkers. This plait crowns the fore head and supports the trimming.

COIFFURES.---According to appearances, the art of the coiffure, forming so important a branch of female fashions, will be put to a severe trial this winter ; never have our elegantes been more wavering and undecided,


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already is so well known, and so much admired by the fashionable world, and so regretted when obliged to discard it in consequence of its having become common, is now revived, beautiful once more and new again, and employed under the most novel shapes and richest materials. According to appearances, black will he much employed this winter, as well for dresses as for head-dresses and jewellery.

A kind of dark orange colour is the newest colour produced this autumn; it is very becoming to the face, and is employed for hats, cap trimmings, scarfs or cravats.

The multitude of names each year employed to designate the new designs or colours of materials, sometimes produce very graceful denominations, which certainly surpass in point of taste, those adapted to the old fashions of the last century,

In general, it is the sudden starting into notoriety of some personagc, of a phenomenon, of a literary novelty, a new and favourite piece, or the like, that in France inspires the names of a new material or a new shape. Strangers should not therefore expect to receive any thing very extraordinary when they send their orders according to the names at present used. Thus for instance, a lady may wear a ball-dress of

gaze fleurs des Anges, without the fear of appearing too aeriel, or a Satin Luxor, without appearing an antiquity.

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nor have exacted from the tortured artist so much variety in the disposal of the hair.

The antique coiffures modified with taste, and made to harmonize with the toilets of the present times, which, by the bye bear great affinity to those of Louis the Fourteenth's time, will most probably have the sway.

The Greek coiffures are abandoned by the hairdressers, and but very few are now seen among the heau monde, and are only becoming with neglige morning dresses; many head-dresses are ornamented with natural flowers, formed in large bouquets called à lu jardinière. The flowers which keep best during an evening are the rose laurel, dahlias of all colours, everlasting daisies and heath-blossoms. The hair turned up en casque and with smooth tresses are as much worn as ever, they are entwined so as to produce the desired effect for both low or elevated coiffures, and are easily varied.

The smooth bandeaux are only worn now by very young ladies.

Materials & COLOURS.---The following are the principal and most novel materials brought out for the forthcoming season.

Gros de Laine damasquiné, is a strong, but brilliant and soft material,

Batiste de Lyon, a tissue composed of goat's hair and silk, intended for walking dresses.

Satin Luxor and Alexandrin, is composed of silk and soft foreign wools, soft to the touch, though strong, and as brilliant as satin,

Foulards with covered grounds, for dresses, the designs entirely different from those hitherto brought out on black grounds; also the white Foulards, manų. factured with Chinese silk, this last reminds one of the materials employed in the XV. century.

Segovia Woollen Muslins, with new dark-coloured designs; the arrangement and display of colours is most beautiful.

Painted Sutins, figured in large designs, on white and shaded grounds; the designs are bold and graceful.

Satin Vessuve, an article, the beauty of whieh, approaches more than any other to perfection.

Woollen and Satin gauze, designated also Gaze Ulémas, a charming material for dinner and evening dresses,

For ball dresses, for young ladies, some very pretty transparent materials have been manufactured, some are half clear, others quite thick, and are ealled

gaze dentelle, gaze de Pomme, gaze sevillanne.

Satin-dentelle, is a supremely elegant material, imitating the Bruxelles point applied over plain satin. This article is one of the most marking of the season ; its designs are various, some in wreaths, some in bouquets, others running designs.

Figared Satins, of various colours, in light and dark shades, by a newmode of manufacturing, produce a most splendid effect, and have the appearance of the richest embroidery. Several of these tissues are really of surprising richness and beauty. The most noted, are the satine Maintenon, Dubarry, and the Damas.

India Velvet, for morning dresses, are, if we may venture the expression, old novelties, that will remain in full favor the whole of the ensuing season, as also the plain satins. : Their light shades for dresses with a mantel-pelerine of the same material, trimmed with black lace, form very elegant demi-toilets.

Hayti blue has re-appeared this autumn, this colour

Plate Forty-One.--.Figure I.---EVENING Dress.... A richly embroidered blond dress, pointed corsage, deep cut on the shoulders and forming a pointe on the chest, as well as at the ceinture, the bust edged with scolloped lace; a satin stomacher in small longitudinal plaits supported by transversal bands, and bordered with narrow lace; the sleeves short and richly embroidered and ornamented with small ribbon nouds. Coiffure, the hair separated over the forehead, the ends disposed on each side of the face in full side curls, turned up behind and elevated in smooth coques, ornamented with three white feathers tastefully displayed.

FIGURE II.---BRIDAL DRESS.--A moire dress, closefitting deep eut corsage, bordered round the bust with a narrow embroidery; the sleves long, wide at the shoulders, the bouffans formed by ribbon noyds, the ends long and floating on the sleeve, close fitting from above the elbow to the wrist, and terminated by a cuff formed by long pointed dents, the points reaching high up the arm; the skirt edged round the hem with scolloped lace, and caught up in festooņs by gold or. naments surmounted by bouquets composed of three feather tips. Coiffure, the hair elevated in smooth coques on the summit of the head, and ornamented with two branches of orange blossoms and a large veil, the lappets reaching low down the skirt of the dress.

Figure III.--BALL DRESS.An embroidered tulle dress, corsage en point with a satin drapery à la maina tenon, caught up in the middle by a noud, and edged with scolloped lace; the sleeves short, and terminated by a blond sabot, ornamented with satin bands edged with blond, and figuring a neud d'épaule; the skirt, from bolow the knee, is cut in long undulating donts, Under dress of white satin. Coiffure, the hair over

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