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1831.]

Mr. URBAN,

Church of Plympton St. Mary, Devonshire.

Plympton St. Mary, Dec. 6.

IN your Magazine for June 1829, (vol. xcix. i. 512) was published an account of the Church and Monuments at Plympton Saint Mary, Devonshire. My attention has been for some time directed to the history of that Church; and, from my constant residence in the parish, I have an opportunity of obtaining information upon some points which the author of that letter has not noticed. Therefore, without the least disparagement of his researches, which are to be highly commended, I beg to offer some additional remarks upon the same subject.

The Church of Plympton St. Mary, which stands in the cemetery of the adjacent priory, is a fine specimen of perpendicular. English architecture, between the periods of 1350 and 1450. It is generally uniform, though there are some vestiges about it of a much earlier date. The buttresses at the eastern end of the chancel are early English of about 1220, and a piscina in the south-east wall of the exterior north aile, called the Strodes' aile, is of about 1300. The church consists of a nave and chancel, two ailes on each side, and a tower at the western extremity of the nave. The nave opens into a north and south aile, of the same length, through, seven pointed arches on each side, supported by piers composed of four shafts, two fifths engaged, having a fillet and hollow, half as large as the shafts between them. Each of these ailes opens into an exterior aile through three pointed arches, supported by piers similar to those already described. All the arches have reversed ogee mouldings. The nave formerly opened into the tower through a lofty pointed arch, which is filled up with a thin partition. The dimensions of the edifice being much larger than the generality of country churches, I give them as follow. The whole length of the interior is 147 feet; the whole width 90 feet.

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The roofs being all parallel, and the length being considerably greater than the width, the term aile appears to be more appropriate than that of a "transept;" therefore, by way of distinction, I have said exterior ailes. The author of the letter alluded to, observes that "the Strodes' aile, evidently an addition, was erected by one of the Strodes of Newnham."

The Strode family is decidedly the oldest extant in this parish ;-their early and highly respectable descent may be seen in Prince's "Worthies of Devon," as well as in ancient family records; but it seems that the aile in question was not built by them.*. I have been favoured with a sight of the will of Richard Strode, esq. of Newnham, dated 1462, in which he desires to be buried in the Church of the Blessed Mary of Plympton," in Gilda Ste Katerine;" by which it may be inferred that this aile was erected by some Company or Gild of Trade, and, judging from parts of the architecture, at a much earlier period than that in which he lived: besides, he ordered a window of Roborough stone to be made, "de novo," in the north-east corner of this "Gilda Ste Katerine," which window he dedicated. to St. Sidwell he also desired a new tomb to be made there, in an arch in the wall, under the window. The lower part of this tomb has been concealed under ground, in consequence of the pavement of this aile having been raised to a level with the floor of the Church. I have lately had the earth removed from it, and a step has been made down to the base. In doing this, thirteen full-length figures, in canopied niches, have been brought to light. That in the centre is a representation of the Trinity; the Fa ther, with the cross before him, and the Dove above it, are nearly perfect.

It is probable that this aisle was ap propriated to the Strode family at the time of the Reformation, when the Gilds ceased to bear the name of saints, or it may have been so called, in consequence of their having buried in it for many years; and although the family have long discontinued to occupy a seat there, one still remains, bearing the armorial escutcheons of Strode on its oaken panels, which belongs to Old Newnham, though by a private arrangement it has been exchanged, pro tempore, to accommodate the tenant.

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1831.]

Repairs of Churches.-Continental Sketches.

The buttresses on the southern side of the Church are of three stages with plain set-offs, and have octagonal embattled turrets, empanelled, with trefoil heads, surmounted with crocketed pinnacles. The base mouldings consist of two tablets, an ogee and hollow, and plain slope.

The south porch is 12 feet square, and is under a neat tower, having two rooms, one over the other, above the porch. On the exterior are three niches, the upper one containing an emblem of the Trinity, like that already described; the figures in those beneath represent the Annunciation, the angel Gabriel occupying that on the left, and the Virgin the other. Over the entrance, on a granite stone, is the crest of the Strode family; the tree, and a part of the wreath and helmet, may still be distinguished, although it is much worn. The groining of the ceiling of this porch is of Roborough stone; it is peculiar, as it forms a double square; the design and workmanship are very good, the ribs spring from demi-angels holding plain

shields.

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up to it, and it stood upon a stone pedestal. At that time the Church was new seated, and it was thought necessary to alter the position of the pulpit, which was taken down, broken to pieces, and put under the sleepers of the flooring of the new pews! A plain painted deal one now stands in the nave, somewhat nearer the chancel. So much for leaving the repairs of Churches to the management of churchwardens, whose irreparable mischief among some of the most interesting features of our sacred edifices, we have daily reason to deplore! I have much satisfaction in stating, that owing to the judicious exertions of the respected Archdeacon of Totnes (Mr. Fronde), a considerable improvement is manifest in most of the churches of this district; and it is to be hoped that a different tone of feeling has been given to some of those who may be intrusted with future repairs. Yet it is to be feared, that in the annual changes of these officers, very few of them are capable of the undertaking; therefore might it not be advisable to appoint some person of experience and judgment to superintend a certain number of churches in a district, for the purpose of better carrying into effect the orders of the Rural Dean (where one is nominated), or to direct the repairs and alterations to be done in a proper manner?

Yours, &c. WILLIAM I. COPPARD.

CONTINENTAL SKETCHES AND REMI-
NISCENCES.

"I SHALL rest to-morrow," said I, with a feeling of complacency, as the Diligence rolled into the inn-yard, on a Saturday evening; and what a sweet interlude is the Sabbath to a weary traveller after the fatigues of the previous week! Gentle reader, if you have never crossed the straits of Dover, do not suppose that the occupation of the tourist is nothing but one round of diversified pleasure and excitement; on the contrary, like everything else, travelling has its own peculiar cares and crosses, and among the rest that of fatigue comes in for its share; for myself, I may say I never scarcely knew what fatigue, that is, real, thorough fatigue, was, till I was fairly engaged in my Continental rambles. Regarding, then, the Sabbath merely as a season of re.

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Continental Sketches and Reminiscences.

pose from bodily exertion, there is something soothing and refreshing in its hallowed hours. In the morning, the peal of early bells (and what a full, solemn, softened sound some of these Continental bells emit), the absence in some degree of the usual bustle of business, and the more respectable dress of the people, announce to the stranger the recurrence of the sacred time which the Creator has appointed for his intelligent creature to rest from his labour, and appropriate to the contemplation of the most important, impressive, and exalting subjects, Death, Deity, and Eternity. Though perhaps unable fully to share in the devotional exercises of the worshippers, still we think a stranger, if he do so with becoming feeling, may not find it either uninteresting or unprofitable to attend the public ordinances of religion, in the country of his temporary abode. He may derive instruction from the devout deportment, the earnest manner, and humble voice of imploring prayer, though perhaps he can neither join in the sentiment, nor approve of the object of the suppliant's adoration; yet his heart may be melted into pity, and warmed with gratitude, that a kind, overruling Providence has cast his lot in a land enlightened by a purer creed.

Next morning I went to the cathedral, and after service spent a short time in the cloisters, and among the tombs. Rude sculptured figures of warriors and mighty men of the olden time, long and brief inscriptions on the monuments, according to the real or supposed merits of the dead, and the fancy of survivors; the usual garniture of the Cities of the Silent; were all here to be met with. I was indulging in my reflecting mood, when my attention was attracted by a light footstep, passing gently along the monumental pavement. It was that of a female of respectable appearance, and dressed in deep mourning. She wore no bonnet, her head was simply covered with a cap of black lace, neatly and gracefully put on. She passed out into the churchyard, where the less noble dead repose in their last still slumber; for man, earthworm as he is, if he live above his fellow-mortal, must also moulder among aristocratic dust, uncontaminated by the baser ashes of the commoner. The church

[Dec.

yard, like those in Switzerland, presented the usual brilliant display of gilded crosses, and complement of flowery festoons, on which as the noontide soon poured a flood of light, the gay glitter which shone around, while it contrasted strangely with the mournful purpose to which the ground was appropriated, seemed to imply that even in the cold grave, all the hopes of humanity, and the tender ties of friendship and love, do not for ever perish. I observed the mourner approach a grave, round which some flowers and evergreens had been recently planted; she knelt by it, gazed intently for some time on the green turf, and then a few tears dropped upon it: grief apparently was now in its second stage, its violence had spent itself, and though the wound was yet open, still it was healing kindly; the memory of the dead was embalming in the sorrowing but tranquil heart, for she betrayed no inward agony, and showed no wildness of gesture; the stream was deep, and its flow was smooth. She dressed up the flowers and shrubs a little, then walked soberly away, and as she passed the corner of the cathedral, she took another farewell look of the resting-place of her friend. It was, I thought, a beautiful instance of placid resignation. In the afternoon I attended Divine Service in a French Protestant church, where the simple ceremonial, with the unaffected earnest manner of the preacher, formed a striking contrast to the laboured effect of the Romish ritual. He chose his text from that exquisite passage of Holy Writ, usually styled the beatitudes, in the 5th chapter of St. Matthew. The words were, Heureux ceux qui pleurent, car ils seront consolés. He illustrated his subject with perspicuity and elegance, and I observed more than one eye wet with the dew of heaven, for no tear is like the tear that flows from repentant feeling for the past, or anticipation of amendment for the future; or even though it be, and alas! but too often it may be nothing more, the effect of mere transient emotion, still it is, as the poet has beautifully expressed it, the tear

"of soul-felt penitence,

Of guiltless joy, that guilt can never know."

At the dismissal of the congregation, there took place the usual interchange of recognition, the smile of

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welcome, and words of kind inquiry passed from friend to friend; heart met heart in the mutual embrace. These are beautiful remains of the soul's original moral glory,-they are the odour of the wild flowers that garnish the still noble ruin. It is at such a scene as this that the lonely traveller is more sensible of his solitude. No one welcomes him; he meets the cold suspicious glance of his own sex, and the tender look of curious woman. He stands apart from the happy assemblage, and shares not their sympathies. Yet the scene may remind him of another temple in another land, where he was wont to worship, in company with those near and dear to him, where the hand of friendship was extended to him, and he shared the kindnesses of early and old acquaintanceship. Solitary though he may be, his situation is not without its peculiar advantages; if he partake not of the attentions, he is free from the incumbrances of home, its society does not distract him, and he has no excuse for flying from his own thoughts; if ever he reflect at all, now he is most particularly well situated for reflection; for, separated from all around, he can retire to the solitude of his chamber, indulge in retrospective and salutary thought, and ponder on his last journey through “the dark valley of the shadow of death."

On the following morning I went to see a private collection of sculpture. The building which contained it resembled a Grecian temple, and was situated with much propriety in the middle of a shrubbery. Among the pieces was a chef-d'œuvre placed in the centre of the room, though I confess both the subject of it, and the artist's name, have long since escaped my memory; but I recollect that the collection was tasteful, both in subject and arrangement, and that my curiosity was excited by observing a bust at the end of the apartment, over which a black veil of crape was thrown. On inquiry I learnt it was that of the late proprietor of the whole, recently deceased. Associated with this solemn event, the white marble image of the dead shining through its darkcoloured cover, produced an impressive effect. It spoke deeply to the heart of the vanity of earth's attachments. "Man walketh in a vain show." The bust was evidently that

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of a man of mind, so far as one can judge from external appearance; the brow was high and commanding, and the expression of the countenance replete with thought; but where were all his thoughts now,-his refined connoisseurship, his intellectual polish and acumen? He had left all, and for ever; and this little temple of taste, while it told that its owner had possessed wealth and elegance, the society of the rich, the polite, and the learned, the things that make life desirable, told also that he was dead. "Man giveth up the ghost, and where is he?""In that day his thoughts perish."

"Nostra vanescit tenues in auras

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Malta, 28 Sept. 1831. MY DEAR UNCLE,-I arrived here five months ago. The hot weather is now almost gone for this year, and I believe this season has been the most oppressive of any known for many years. I told you of my excursion into the crater of Mount Vesuvius. I have now the satisfaction to inform you that during my stay in Sicily last April for 16 days, I also gained the highest point of Mount Etna. In the city of Catania, the weather was so hot as to make it imprudent to go out in the day-time. One afternoon I set out for the village of Nicolosi, and after travelling over a sea of lava, arrived there at sun-set, and having slept a couple of hours, was called at a quarter past nine at night, it being then pitch dark, to proceed for the summit, a guide with a lantern showing the way; and after passing over vast tracts of lava, we reached what is called the Woody region about halfpast 12. Not a human being lives here, indeed not a house of any kind is to be seen nearer to the mountain than Nicolosi; but there is a small ruinous hut built of stone (through which the bleak winds whistle), and

* Buchanan's Psalms.

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