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1822.]

I

Account of the City of Lincoln.

March 1.

Mr. URBAN, REQUEST you to insert in your Magazine a view of the antient city of Lincoln, (see Plate II.) from a drawing made several years ago, long previous to the destruction of the two spires of the Cathedral in 1807, noticed in vol. LXXVII. pp. 736, 908, 1136. The description which follows is chiefly selected from the "Beauties of England and Wales." R. S. LINCOLN, a place of considerable note in the ecclesiastical and military annals of England, is singularly situated on the top and side of a high hill, which slopes with a deep descent to the South, where the river Witham runs at its base. A large part of the city, or rather suburbs, extends in a long street from the foot of a hill to the South. On the Northern side of it, without the walls, is another suburb, called Newport, supposed to have been an outwork of the Roman station. Camden and some other antiquaries state, that this place was occupied as a station or strong-hold by the Britons, anterior to the Roman colonization of the island; and that it then bore the name of "Lindcoit, from the woods (for which some copies have, corruptly, Lintcoit)." By Ptolemy and Antoninus, the name of the place is written Lindum: and from having the privilege of a colony, was called Lindum-colonia. Bede appears to have identified the spot, by the names of Lindecollinum and Lindecollina; and in the Saxon annals it is called Lindocollyne and Lindeyllan-ceaster. When the Normans took possession of BriLain, they gave new names, new laws, and new arrangements to all the cities and baronies; and this place was denominated, according to some writers, Nichal; but Mr. Gough doubts it, and says, "may one suggest a suspicion, that Nichol is owing to some misreading of Incol, or Lincol, or to the imperfect pronunciation of the Normans, as the French have dis guised many proper names in later

Limes."

Whatever may have been the character of this station previous to its possession by the Romans, we cannot commence any thing like true history before that event; and even then we discover but little to excite interest or gratify curiosity. As a military station, occupied by a colony of Romans, GENT. MAG. March, 1822.

209

it must have been a place of some extent and consequence. This is manifested by the vestiges that remain, and by the various discoveries that have been made at different periods. The form of the fortified station was that of a parallelogram, divided into four equal parts, by two streets, which crossed it at right angles. At the extremities of these were four fortified gates, nearly facing the cardinal points. The whole was encompassed by an embattled wall, which, on three sides, was flanked by a deep ditch, but on the Southern side the steepness of the hill rendered a foss unnecessary. The area thus inclosed was about 1300 feet in length, by 1200 feet in breadth, and is estimated to have contained thirty-eight acres. The walls have been levelled to the ground, and the gates, except that to the North, have been for many years demolished. The latter, called Newport Gate, is described by Dr. Stukeley as "the noblest remnant of this sort in Britain, as far as I know."

Soon after the Romans left the island, Lincoln, in common with other places of consequence, shared in the general calamities which ensued, by the incursions of the Picts, Saxons, and Danes. At what period the Saxons possessed themselves of this city does not appear in history. But so early as the year 516, or, according to Matthew of Westminster, 518, Arthur having been crowned king of Britain, proceeded immediately with his forces against the Saxons, who had been ravaging the country under their leader, Colgern; who, on the approach of the British Prince, fled, and passed over into Germany, where, having obtained fresh supplies of troops, and aided by Cerdic, the founder of the West Saxon kingdom, he again advanced, and carried on a depredatory warfare. Ar thur obtaining advantages against the combined army, pursued it towards Lincoln, which city was then be sieged by the troops of Cerdic; who, on the arrival of the Britons, were compelled to retreat from before it.

Lincoln, at the time of the Norman conquest, appears to have been one of the richest and most populous cities in England; and of great importance as an emporium of trade and commerce. The Domesday Survey mentions 1070 mansions, 900 burgesses, and 12 leige

men,

210

Account of the City of Lincoln.

men, having sac and soke. On the accession of the Conqueror to the throne, he appears to have felt that dread and insecurity which ever attend usurped dominion; and, having no hold upon his new subjects but what principally arose from fear, he endeavoured by every precaution to prevent insurrection and revolt. Malcolm, king of Scotland, refusing in 1067 to give up Edgar, who had fled to him for protection, excited alarm in the bosom of the Conqueror, and numbers of the English flying to that country from the yoke of tyranny tended to increase his suspicions. Convinced of the disaffection of many, and doubtful of more among his people, he ordered four strong castles to be built; one at Hastings, another at Lincoln, a third at Nottingham, and a fourth at York. In consequence of this, a large and strong castle was erected A.D. 1086, on the ridge of the hill on which this city was situated. The ostensible design of it was, as a fortress, to defend the city; but the more immediate and real object was to overawe and keep in subjection the inhabitants, whose numbers, wealth, and partialities, the Conqueror viewed with a jealous eye. The building was 644 yards in circumference, and occupied the space on which had stood 166 houses. These are said to have been taken down to furnish room for its erection, and 74 more were at the same time destroyed without the limits, that the whole might be insulated, or stand alone.

Of the Castle built by the Conqueror, little now remains; and the area is occupied by buildings appropriated to uses of the municipal power. The few remaining vestiges convey the same idea of original Norman architecture as that of York, erected nearly at the same period. The Keep was not included, but stood half with out and half within the castle-wall, which ascended up the slopes of the hill, and joined the great tower. This being situated on a high artificial mount, it was equally inaccessible from within and without the castle area. It was nearly round, covering the summit of the mount; and was thus rendered a distinct strong-hold, tenable with or without the castle. This accounts for the circumstance mentioned by Lord Lyttelton, of the Earl of Chester making his escape, while the castle was invested by Stephen. From the Keep

[March,

to another tower, placed also on an artificial mount, was a covered way, by which a private communication was kept up. The walls are above seven feet thick; and under the place of ascent from the covered way, there is something like the remains of a well, protected by the massy thickness of the walls. The outer walls of the Castle inclose a very large area, the entrance to which was by a gateway, between two small round towers, still standing, under a large square tower, which contained magnificent rooms. In one corner of the area is a curious small building, appearing on the outside like a tower, called Cobshall; which Mr. King thinks originally was used as a chapel, "having a fine vaulted roof, richly ornamented, and supported by pillars, with a crypt underneath; and adjoining it a small antichapel." The pillars were so placed against the loop-holes through which the light was admitted, that they proved a defence against missive weapons. On the North-western side are the remains of a turret; having the curious arch mentioned by Sir Henry Englefield, which being in the line of the Roman wall, might have belonged to a more ancient building, or been a gateway to the old city. Within the area of the castle are the county-gaol and shire-hall, both modern structures, and well adapted to their respective purposes.

Few places in the kingdom exhibit so many ancient remains as Lincoln. Saxon, Norman, and Pointed arches ; and doorways with turrets, walls, mullioned windows, and other fragments of old dilapidated buildings, appear in every direction. Its numerous Churches and Religious houses, the vestiges of which occasionally meet the eye of the inquiring traveller, are numerous; and though they are highly interesting to the Antiquary, as tending to illustrate the progress of the Arts, and the history of past ages, yet a description of them all would take up more room than can be allowed consistently with the limits of the present communication.

The Cathedral, or, as it is usually called, the Minster, is justly the pride and glory of Lincoln. This magnificent building, from its situation on the highest part of a hill, and the flat state of the country to the South-east and South-west, may be seen at the distance of twenty miles. Raised at a vast expence, by the munificence of

several

1822.]

Account of the City of Lincoln.

several prelates, it discovers in many parts singular skill and beauty; partícularly its Western front, which cannot fail to attract the attention of the most unobserving traveller. And of all the ancient fabrics of this description now remaining in England, no one deserves the attention of a curious inquirer more than this, "whose floor," says Fuller in his humorous style, "is higher than the roofof many Churches." It may be said to be a building proportioned to the amplitude of the diocese, and is justly esteemed one of the most extensive and regular of its kind, notwithstanding it was erected at different periods, and has undergone various alterations in later times. After the See was removed to this place, the new Bishop, Remigius, according to Henry of Huntingdon, " purchased lands on the highest parts of the city, near the Castle, which made a figure with its strong towers, and built a Church, strong and fair, in a strong place and in a fair spot, to the Virgin of virgins, in spite of all the opposition from the Archbishop of York, who laid claim to the ground, placing in it forty-four prebendaries. This afterwards being damaged by fire, was elegantly repaired" by that munificent and pious Bishop of Lincoln, Alexander. The first foundations were laid in the year 1086, by Bishop Remigius, and the building was continued by him and his successor, Robert Bloet. Soon after the death of this Bishop, the Church is said to have been burnt down* about A. D. 1127, and rebuilt by Bishop Alexander, his successor, with an arched stone roof, to prevent the recurrence of a like accident in future; and it is stated, that he set his whole mind upon adorning his new Cathedral, which he made the most magnificent at that time in England. But though thus rendered pre-eminent for size and decoration, it was made more elegant, &c. by St. Hugh of Burgundy, in the time of Henry the Second. This prelate added several parts, which were

then named the New Works +

Mr. Gough says, 66 I only damaged." + It appears from various documents, that all additions made to ancient structures were called New Works. Various alterations, &c. were made at Ely Cathedral, nearly at the same periods that others were making at Lincoln, and they are all called New Works, or, "Nova Opera."

211

The Cathedral consists of a nave, with its ailes, a transept at the West end; and two other transepts, one near the centre, and the other two near the Eastern end; also a choir and chancel with their ailes of corresponding height and width with the nave and ailes. The great transept has an aile towards the East; attached to the Western side of this transept, is a gallilee or grand porch; and on the Southern side of the Eastern aile are two oratories, or private chapels, whilst the North side has one of nearly similar shape and character. Branching from the Northern side, are the clois ters, which communicate with the chapter-house. The Church is ornamented with three towers; one at the centre, and two other at the Western end. These are lofty, and are decorated with varied tracery, pillars, pilasters, windows, &c. To furnish the reader with an adequate idea of the dimensions and general size of this structure, I subjoin the following table; the measurements for which were made by Mr. T. Espin, of Louth; and I believe may be justly relied on:

"The height of the two Western towers, 180 feet. Previous to the year 1808, each of these was surmounted by a central spire, the height of which was 101 feet. The great tower in the middle of the Church, from the top of the corner pinnacle to the ground, is 300 feet; its width is 58 feet. Exterior length of the Church, with feet; width of Western front 174 feet; exteits buttresses, 524 feet; interior length 482 rior length of great transept 250 feet; and interior 222 feet; the width is 66 feet. The lesser or Eastern transept is 170 feet in length, and 44 in width, including the side Chapels. Width of the Cathedral 80 feet; height of the vaulting of the nave 80 feet. The Chapter-house is a decagon, and measures, interior diameter, 60 feet 6 inches. The Cloisters measure 118 feet on the North and South sides, and 91 feet on the Eastern and Western sides."

Mr. URBAN,

N.

Leicester, Feb. 16. YOUR Correspondent "JULIAN," (vol. XCI. i. p. 589) has commenced a Letter on the importance of accuracy in Wills, with the expression of a regret that more frequent alterations are not made in our legislative system, and has intimated a wish that a spirit of Justinian revision should more extensively actuate the proceedings of an English Parliament. So far as alterations can be made for the

better,

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