BORROWDALE TO BUTTERMERE, CRUMMOCK, AND

LOWES WATER.

N proceeding from Borrowdale to Buttermere, which is a distance of about twelve miles from Keswick, and six from Rosthwaite, the road must be pursued from the farm-house of Seatoller, up the steep and rugged pass called Buttermere Hause, having a tributary of the Grange near the road, broken in its course by waterfalls, and from which road beautiful views are obtained of Borrowdale. This route, in consequence of the steepness and irregularity of the road, is usually accomplished on foot, or with a stout pony. In leaving Borrowdale, the lead mines are seen to the left, overlooked by Honister Crag, the road proceeding up the pass, which is 1100 feet high, and situated between Honister Crag and Yew Crag, presenting scenes of wild and solitary grandeur. Honister Crag is one of the most striking mountains in the district, rising from Gatesgarth dale at the head of Buttermere in a single precipice of 1500 feet above the valley, its total elevation being 1700 feet. This pass was formerly the scene of oft-repeated contests between the border clans. Here fell the younger Græme, a bold and hardy chieftain of the Scottish clan of freebooters of that name;

who, after they had plundered the Borrowdale men of a rich booty of cattle, were attacked by the latter, when the elder Græme slew the English leader. Having arrived at the summit of the pass, the road sharply descends to the farm at Gatesgarth, four miles from Seatoller, the valley being strewn with large masses of rocks from the heights above, crossing the principal feeder of Buttermere twice. The mountains chiefly consist of a fine roofing slate, which has been excavated from the sides a great height from the base. The quarries belong to General Wyndham, of Cockermouth Castle.

From Gatesgarth to the inn at Buttermere, the road runs along the eastern border of the lake, passing Hassness, the residence of General Benson, pleasantly situated near the margin, about a mile from the village.

Buttermere is a small still lake, surrounded by lofty mountains; it is about a mile and a quarter long, half a mile broad, and ninety feet deep. It is noted principally for char, which are abundant in its waters. Its feeders flow from Honister Crag and Scarf Gap, and it is connected with the lake of Crummock Water by a stream flowing from the foot over the fields for about a mile.

The village of Buttermere is situated nearly midway between the two lakes, and consists only of a few scattered farm-houses, and two inns. The little chapel is

village, and is a neat

seated on a knoll overlooking the modern building, erected by the Rev. Mr. Thomas on the site of a much smaller one, which was thought to be the smallest in England, accommodating only six families. The chapel at Wastdale head is, perhaps, the smallest in these parts.

VALE OF BUTTERMERE.

205

The inn near the chapel recalls to memory the beautiful maid of Buttermere, named Mary Robinson; this being the place where she resided. The ballad, which is well known, describes her as being so beautiful, that her charms were heard of far and near in these parts; and, being the inn-keeper's daughter, her duty was to wait upon the guests. It happened that a gentleman calling himself the Hon. Col. Hope was much pleased with her, and they were eventually married; but he turned out to be a rogue named Hatfield who had committed forgery, and had fled to the seclusion of the mountains. He was found out, and afterwards tried at Carlisle, where he suffered for his crime.

The beautiful Mary afterwards married a farmer, and died only a few years since. The intervening meadows between the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock, are intersected by luxuriant wood and hedge-rows; and the mountains, rising above the vale, look wild and imposing, being in many parts denuded of their woody covering.

The beauties of the vale, if the tourist is favoured with fine weather, are of a peculiarly quiet and pleasing character, and present a degree of peaceful repose not always to be found. Either the quiet sublimity of Buttermere, or the grander features of Crummock, will interest and charm, in viewing them from a boat on the surface of the lake.

The lake of Crummock is bounded by the mountains of Grasmoor, Whiteside, and Whiteless on the east, and Melbreak on the west. On the eastern side there are three tributary streams, which enter it from between the hills, and the famous waterfall of Scale Force is seen a mile from the head, on the western side.

Scale Force is the highest waterfall in the lake district, being 156 feet high, having an upper and a lower fall. Although there is a footpath across the fields over swampy ground to it, the preferable way is by a boat, following the course of the stream for about a mile from the shore, along a rocky road. It falls between two perpendicular rocks, with small trees growing from the fissures. The height from which it falls into a basin beneath, and the narrow channel through which it passes, cause a continual mist and spray to arise, much enhancing the beauty of the scene. The lower fall is about 44 feet high, and, combined with the upper, forms one of the most interesting falls in the district.

Some short distance above, Ling Crag, a rocky promontory near the foot of Melbreak, affords extremely interesting views of the lakes of Buttermere and Cṛummock, with the surrounding scenery. The latter is about three miles long, three quarters of a mile broad, and one hundred and thirty-two feet deep. It is famous for fine