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floor transformed into a shop, fitted with a Tutti and Frutti opened a shop in Holborn, counter indeed, but with a large, open, un- that other great artery of London traffic. glazed space where the window ought to When the short-lived English summer be, and furnished inside with little round was over, and the ice business was of marble tables and foreign chairs—when course at an end, they took to selling they marked the sign-board, on which chocolate, in which, both liquid and solid, was painted a wine-glass piled high above they did a very good business. the brim with some composition, partly So the whirligig of time went on and red, partly white-when, finally, the pro- brought with it various changes. What bemoters of the establishment announced came of Frutti, whether he died or whether themselves in long, thin, foreign-looking he retired to his native country, with the letters as Tutti and Frutti, from Bologna, fortune he had made out of English pennies, manufacturers of penny ices, the British is not known. Another Tutti, a relative public wondered indeed! Penny ices ? of the original, appeared upon the scene, Nonsense! Ices were a magnificent luxury and erected a large music-hall very near for the delectation of the wealthy alone, the spot upon which the old ice-shop stood, costing sometimes a shilling, and never while the original Tutti embarked his less than sixpence ! The Hungerford savings in the establishment of what is still Market frequenting public had stared with the largest café restaurant in England. curious and longing eyes at countesses The premises in which he started had been eating ices, as they reclined in their car- well known to the public, in two or three riages opposite Mr. Gunter's or Mr. other forms, for many years. First in our Grange's shop, and now these delicacies memory as a hall of science, where Perwere about to be offered for a penny. It kins's steam-gun poured forth its shower was absurd ! Nevertheless, the day of of bullets against the iron target, and where opening came, and those hardy spirits, the electrical eel distributed convulsive who had the courage to enter the pre- shocks to those who were weak-minded mises, found themselves received by black- enough to touch it. Then the building bearded, black-eyed foreigners, unintelli- experienced another phase, and became a gible in speech, but courteous in manner, casino, “an establishment,” to quote its who ladled out glass after glass, piled up description from an excellent farce by Mr. after the manner of the picture on the Shirley Brooks, “promoted by the Early sign-board, with marvellous rapidity. Per- Closing Association for the moral improvehaps to their great astonishment, the con- ment of young Holborn,” a dancing-hall
, sumers found that there was no doubt where was to be found the best ball band about its being ice. The first mouthful in London, with Henri Laurent for its consettled that! It was very cold, and very ductor, and Arban for its cornet. These succulent, and very nice, and it only cost a were the days of the Olga, and the Bridal, penny! Messrs. Tutti and Frutti sprang and the Valse d'Amour, of the Jupiter and into great and sudden popularity ; their Annen, and the Firefly polkas, of the Postice-shop was a success. After sweltering Horn and Sturm-Marsch galops. Do people in a crowded steam-boat, under a July sun, dance now? Perhaps they do. The subit was pleasant to cool oneself with a glace ject has ceased to be of the smallest interest à la Vanille (the foreign language giving it to the present writer. quite an additional flavour) in the shady After a little time the band and its frearcades of Hungerford. It sounded rather quenters moved to more spacious quarters, well for the gentlemen members of a party and the gallery became empty and deserted. proceeding per Citizen steamer up the river, From time to time attempts were made to to invite the lady members to take “a galvanise it into life again. Was it there hice” before they embarked. Some of the that we found ourselves one of five, the dashing young bloods of the day (young rest of the audience being composed of bloods, be it understood, in a very minor three old women and a child in a tartan degree) began to speak of the shop as a dress, looking on at Pokey's Paris, and " caffy," and found that to sit at the trying hard to believe we were in a balloon marble-topped tables with their hats on overhanging that capital? Was it there one side, and the fringed ends of their Join. that we witnessed 'a bottle of chamville ties well pulled out, was almost as pagne uncorked by Horace Plastic,” which good as going to “ Bolong.” So that soon probably shared the fate of other bottles of the establishment at Hungerford was found champagne, and was drunk out at once ? to be insufficient for the business, and Was it there that we underwent that driest and most awful ordeal of all, when we laugh of triumph, two or three of the looked on while a Scotch gentleman spread large tables in the middle of the upper out before a very select audience the con- end of the room are given up to noisy, vivatents of the Gaberlunzie Wallet—a collec- cious, gesticulating Frenchmen, the clatter tion of Northern“ wut” and wisdom most of whose tongues is as loud as the rattle of superlatively dreary ? Then came an en- the dominoes with which they are playing. tirely dead period, during which Tutti saw During the Franco-Prussian war, the tide his opportunity, and transformed the gal- of discussion used to run tolerably high lery into what it now is.
between the representatives of the two Entering through the swinging glass-nationalities, and even now they keep doors, we will take the staircase immedi- apart and there is no fusion between them. ately on our left and descend into the lower Tutti's has its celebrities, and some of regions. A long and narrow hall, spacious them are here to-night. That handsome enough to contain fifteen billiard-tables, old man with high forehead, aquiline nose, three being set aside for pool, and all being white hair, and soft white beard is Herr generally engaged throughout the evening. Steinmetz, at one time the finest chessThe floor above is a very grand hall, lofty, player in Europe. The matches that he spacious, and handsome, plentifully de- has won against fearful odds; how he has corated with looking-glass, and fitted from held his own against several players at the end to end with a row of divans and of same time; the games which he has played marble-topped tables on either side, and with bandaged eyes, or with his face turned with a double row of both down the middle. to the wall, are they not written in the While nearly all these seats and tables are chronicles of the sporting press and in the filled by a tacit though thoroughly well. hearts of his admirers ? He is an old man understood agreement amongst the fre- now, and does not play nearly so much as quenters of the room, different portions formerly, contenting himself with looking of it are set aside for different purposes. on at the prowess of his successors, and Thus, while the tables on the right-hand occasionally giving advice, which is always side are occupied by the chess-players, who followed. Yon black-bearded, bright-eyed, are gathered together in force (Tutti's olive-skinned little man with the closebeing the acknowledged head-quarters of cropped head, who is expelling smoke from the game, and frequented by its most skil- his mouth, his nostrils, and apparently his ful exponents and their admiring friends), ears, as he rattles the dominoes with quick, the tables on the left-hand side are gene- lithe movements, is Etienne Didot, Parisian rally patronised by such visitors as may journalist, and hero of the Commune, who have dropped in for the purpose of con- boasts of having recommended that not versation, or by those who have ladies with merely the hostages, but that everybody them. And when we say ladies we use else should be shot, but who was glad enough the word in its integrity. A glance round at the restoration of order to lie hidden in Tutti's would convince any one in a moment a picture-dealer's garret, and to make his that it was not at all the place where escape to England disguised as a peasant. Madame. Lais or Fraulein Phryne would And here, bending over the most doughtily be amused or even at her ease. During contested chess match, is a somewhat the daytime Tutti's is generally patronised worn, shrewd face, which comes upon you by ladies, and after the morning perform- in connexion with other associations, with ances of pantomimes it is, we understand, the Park and the Rów, with the Bellona a sight to see the mothers and the children Club and Skindle's, with a life as different regaling themselves on chocolate and as may be from that passed at Tutti's. bread-and-butter, preparatory to departure The shrewd-looking man is Stewart of Pithomeward by suburban trains. At night, cairn, whose knowledge of the world is lady visitors are much fewer in number, but varied and extensive: at Eton, in a cavalry of the same thoroughly respectable class, regiment, as a Highland laird, as a wanand then, as we have observed, they gene- derer throughout the old world and the rally sit on the left-hand side of the room. new world; who has been soldier, traveller, Another thing to be noticed is, that while sportsman, and landed proprietor; petted the chess-tables and draught-boards are by women, liked by men, reverenced by principally occupied by solid Britishers, his clan, and who in the autumn of his life or more solid Germans, silent mostly, finds the greatest amusement in smoking bending over their game and emitting his meerschaum pipe and playing chess, or every now and then thick puffs of smoke, watching chess played, at Tutti's; not that a grunt of perplexity, or a deep short he has less money or less position, only he
has seen enough of the world, too much the noisy mob which shouted rejoicings at his friends say, and has found that simple Cromwell's victories, and wondered what amusements are the most lasting.
good or evil would result therefrom to the On an average Tutti's has three thou- title he bore. “There is,” says Howell, sand visitors a day, the majority English, writing in 1657, “towards Drury-lane, but with a large sprinkling of foreigners a new market called Clare Market; there is from all parts of the Continent. Coffee, there a street and palace of the same name, chocolate, and aërated waters are the built by the Earl of Clare, who lives there liquors consumed, while for edibles there in a princely manner, having a house, a are delicious bread-and-butter, wonderful street, and a market both for flesh and fish, omelettes, and all the simpler kinds of all bearing his name.” London at those food. The entire establishment is con- times was full of such picturesque conducted with liberality and decorum, and is, trasts, for gentlemen of position dwelt in as it most fully deserves to be, perfectly places like Shire-lane (Temple Bar), or the successful.
slums of Whitefriars, maintaining, as best
they might, a solitary dignity amidst low THE BURN AMONG THE HEATHER. taverns, the haunts of tipsy soldiers, and OBAN, ARGYLLSHIRE, 1871.
the dens of thieves, bullies, and assassins. NURSED on the bosom of the Ben,
Day by day their gilt coaches must have I track thee downwards to the glen,
rolled forth from their court-yards, giving With all thy devious twists and turns Through moor and moss, mid bent and ferns ;
the idlers and scamps of the localities in And careless as the wilful wind,
which they lingered tempting glimpses of What joys we seek and fail to find,
rich furniture, costly plate, and fine clothes. We'll pass this summer day together, Thou bonnie burn among the heather.
In 1720, Strype describes Clare MarAn idle robin wandering by,
very considerable, and well served Thinks he may bathe as well as I,
with provisions, both flesh and fish, for, But doubtful of the traitor, man,
besides the butchers in the shambles, it is Flies out of danger while he can; A mountain lamb, that longs to drink,
much resorted to by the country butchers Starts to espy me from the brink,
and higglers. The market-days are Wed. And scuds atfrighted down the wind,
nesdays and Saturdays. The toll belongs Scared at the sight of human kind.
to the Duke of Newcastle (Pelham Holles), It pains me, fellows of the dust ! To know your terror and mistrust,
as ground landlord thereof.” The son of And that you fail to understand
the second earl (probably the donor of the There lurks no murder in my hand;
blackamoor holding a dial in the garden That I'm unwilling to destroy
of Clement's Inn) died in 1689; his son, The humblest innocence and joy, And that your dread of me and mine,
created Marquis of Clare and Duke of Jars upon harmonies divine.
Newcastle, died in 1711, when all his I rise refreshed, to trace once more
honours perished in the grave with him. Thy wanton waters to the shore, And never weary as I go;
Careless of earl or marquis, the street venBlue sky above, green earth below;
ders still, however, continue the market To render into words the song,
traffic, won for them from the City by the Now soft and sweet, now loud and strong, first earl, and hoarsely bawling their wares, That to the sunlight and the moon, Thou singest to such constant tune.
their rough faces gleaming out through I know the old familiar strain !
fiery gusts of gas, or showing pale by dim I've sung it and will sing again,
flickers of paper lamps, contrive to carry The song of Gratitude and Love,
on a busy though humble traffic, as briskly Such as the skylark trills above; The lilt of Hope, and Joy, and Peace,
as when Hogarth used to wander here on The Hymn of Praise that shall not cease, his way to his adjacent club, or when While Love and Reason dwell together,
Colley Cibber, in a richly laced coat, sought Thou bonnie burn among the heather!
the nearest way to the Spiller's Head. CHRONICLES OF LONDON
This Spiller was a celebrated actor of
Queen Anne's reign, and his greatest chaSTREETS.
racter was Mat o' the Mint, in the Beggars' CLARE MARKET.
Opera. The butchers, whose red faces In Clare House-court, a not very in- and blue frocks were always conspicuous in viting passage on the left hand as you go the gallery of the Portugal-street Theatre, up Drury-lane, stood, during the Civil adored Spiller, and induced an equally Wars, the town house of the Earls of Clare. enthusiastic publican of the neighbourhood John Holles, the second earl, during the to take down his sign of the Bull and troubles of Charles's time, listened from Butcher, and put up the Spiller's Head in his windows to the threatening hum of its place. When Spiller died in 1729, some wag of the day, writing under the in at the other, till the coachman, astopseudonym of a Clare Market butcher, pro- nished at such an endless procession, fled duced the following elegy on the dead for terror. actor, and in its day it passed for a very Mr. Diprose, who has all his life been pretty passage of wit :
collecting the memorabilia of the odd nooks Down with your marrow-bones and cleavers all,
of St. Clement's parish, has a curious ac. And on your marrow-bones ye butchers fall, count of some old pictures that were long For prayers from you, who never prayed before, in the possession of Mr. Smith, of the Hope Perhaps poor Jemmy may to life restore.
Tavern, Blackmoor-street, Clare Market. The Spiller's Head became a great resort They were always said to be the original of artists and actors, and Tom D'Urfey, portraits of Jack Sheppard and his mother, who used to sing duets with Charles the painted by Hogarth's father-in-law, Sir Second, and long after him Colley Cibber, James Thornhill, and the story went, in Pope's troublesome antagonist, were in turn 1845, that they had been sold to Mr. presidents. At the Bull's Head in Clare Merivale of Gray's Inn for ninety-seven Market, the Shepherd and his Flock Club guineas. Below the moulding of the frame met, and also an Artists' Club, of which of Mrs. Sheppard's portrait were found Hogarth was a member. It was at this club seven guineas and several copper coins, that Doctor Radcliffe, the great physician, between the moulding and lining of the was enjoying himself, when the damping other were several curious papers and news came that he had dropped some five documents relating to the rebellion of thousand pounds in the South Sea Bubble. 1745, all bearing the post-mark of the
“Never mind,” said the philosophic time, and probably secreted there by some doctor, “’tis but going up five thousand wary Jacobite in a moment of peril. more pairs of stairs.'
There were also discovered a cheque for This latter club, a local antiquary, to seventeen pounds and a note for ten pounds. whom we are largely indebted, says was Among the papers was a printed notice first instituted by the actors of the Lin- for turning the Lincoln’s-inn-fields Theatre coln's-inn-fields Theatre.
into a guard-house, and suspending a cerOf Rich, the manager and famous har- tain performance. lequin, a story is told, which is probably Now Jack being a favourite in Clare the original of several almost similar ones, Market, it was not unnatural that the Black with the advantage of being true. One Jack Tavern, at the corner of Portsmouthnight, returning from the Portugal-street street, which had been the favourite haunt Theatre in a hackney-coach, he ordered of taciturn Joe Miller, should be a place the man to drive him to the Sun Tavern, he frequented, and from the first-floor winClare Market. Passing one of the parlour dow there he once leaped to avoid a sudden windows that was invitingly open, Rich rush of Jonathan Wild's myrmidons. sprang out of the coach into the room. The The Jump, as the tavern was afterwards coachman just then halting, and finding called, was, and we believe still is, a great the vehicle empty, slammed the steps, cursed resort of medical students. The Jump was the cheat who had bilked him, and mounted also the place where the “Pop-gun” plot of his box to drive off. At this moment Rich 1794 was supposed to have been concocted. jumped back, and putting out his head at the time of the Horne Tooke and Thel. i. told the man to turn the coach and wall trials, two men, named Higgins and set him down. After he got out, Rich Smith, and a third, named Lemaitre, were swore at the stupid fellow, and offered him arrested on a charge of plotting to kill his fare. Jarvey declined; he did not like the king with a poisoned arrow. Lemaitre, the look of things, and said stoutly his a watch-case maker, only eighteen, was for master had ordered him not to take any three days closely examined by the Privy money at all that night. Rich replied, Council, then confined for thirty-two weeks * Your master is a fool, here is a shilling in Coldbath Fields, and finally discharged. for yourself.” But the man was resolute, During this time his mother had died of regained his box, and as he drove off grief. Some months after he was again shouted, “No, no, Mr. Devil, I know you arrested, tried, and acquitted. Mr. Warin spite of your shoes, and so you're made burton and Lord Dacre kept the poor fela fool of for once." This story is usually low's case for years before parliament, but told of an actor who, on being set down at failed to obtain for him any redress. his destination in the dark, kept getting Clare Market seems always to have been out at one door of the vehicle and going much frequented by actors in search of
traits of low humour, and of them many two thousand four hundred and seventytraditions still exist. That idol of her day, five pounds in the Three per Cents to Mrs. Bracegirdle, used frequently to visit distant relations, not one of whom he had the stalls in Clare Market, and give money ever seen. 'About half an hour before he to the poor unemployed basket-women died, he was seen trying to bargain for a whom she found moping in corners hungry cheap coffin. and disconsolate. She became so well Brutus Billy was of quite another species, known to them at last, that she could not and under his black skin flowed the richest pass that way to the theatre without being and warmest life-blood. He was an old loudly greeted by their thanks and bene- Jamaica negro, who for years swept the dictions.
crossing at the Fleet-street corner of LudBannister once met with a young and gate-hill
, opposite the shop of Alderman gay spendthrift, who was lamenting his Waithman. Brutus was short and thickfolly in having run through the handsome set, jet black, and with very silvery hair, fortune left him by his father, a tripe-seller trained into a fashionable toupee over his in Clare Market.
forehead. His industry and civility won him * Cheer up, man,” said Charles. “How friends, and Mr. Waithman frequently gave did you lose it?"
him money, and at last provided him with a "I got rid of it by horse-racing,” groaned regular Sunday dinner. Brutus Billy lived the sufferer.
in White Horse - yard, Stanhope - street, "Never mind," was the reply; "you only Drury-lane, and was universally respected, lost by your gallopers what your father the more so, that he was known to have gained by his trotters.”
money in the Funds; report, always magThis reminds us of Douglas Jerrold's nifying, said thousands upon thousands. remark to another lamenting prodigal, who Tim-buc-too, as he was sometimes irrevewas regretting his pair of exquisite bays : rently called, when he had shut up shop“Well, my boy, but only think of your that is, swept mud over the crossing, the dans !”
goodwill of which he eventually sold for a Our local antiquary reminds us of two large sum-used to carry nuts and fruit celebrated Clare Market worthies : Pett, round to places of entertainment. By such the miser, and Brutus Billy, the crossing. diligent and frugal ways, Brutus (perhaps sweeper in Fleet-street. Pett was a War- introduced into Moncrieff's Tom and Jerry, wickshire man, who came to London at ten as the original type of the black man who years of age, with only a shilling in his is disgusted to see “turkey without sassenpocket. An old woman who sold pies gers at the beggars' supper) made a forhelped him till he could earn a living. Ap- tune. Brutus Billy died in Chapel-court prenticed to a butcher in Southwark, in in 1854, aged eighty-seven, and tradition due time he became a journeyman in Clare says he left seven thousand pounds to his Market. For the first few years he was kind benefactress, Miss Waithman. A paid twenty-five pounds a year, with meat slight per centage may perhaps be taken and drink. Early thrift had turned him from this amount, but there is no doubt to flint; to get money and save it became of his having really left that lady a legacy. the ruling passion of his life.
Among other legends of Clare Market, when very thirsty after work, he rashly collected by the local antiquary, we may swore, says Mr. Diprose (into whose records mention one of a Mohock Club, held at à we again dip), to treat himself to a pint of tavern close to the Tennis Court playhouse. porter every Saturday, as soon as he had The wild members were chiefly lawyers' saved a thousand pounds. He achieved clerks from Chancery-lane and Lincoln'sthis weekly feast after tremendous mortifi- inn-fields. The first who entered the club cations. Winter after winter he never lit a was chairman for the evening, and he had fire or went to bed by candle-light. For the right to nominate two or three couples forty-two years he slew and dissected oxen, of mad fellows, who, between ten and eleven, and for thirty years occupied the same were sent forth to torment inoffensive miserable room.
He never treated man, people. Their plan was to lie in ambush woman, or child to a glass, never lent or till they heard a solitary man coming. borrowed a penny, never spoke ill or well They would then raise a shout of “That's of any one, and never ate a morsel at his he! that's he! that's he!" and drawing own expense. The glorious result of this their swords give chase. If they caught agreeable life was that our prudent journey- the poor wretch, and he was not too brave man butcher died in June, 1803, leaving or stubborn, they surrounded him in a circle