first tolerable level after the valley to the height of what in the Valley we had thought the top and saw still above us another huge crag which still the Guide said was not the top-to that we made with an obstinate fag, and having gained it there came on a Mist, so that from that part to the very top we walked in a Mist. The whole immense head of the Mountain is composed of large loose stones-thousands of acres. Before we had got halfway up we passed large patches of snow and near the top there is a chasm some hundred feet deep completely glutted with it.-Talking of chasms they are the finest wonder of the whole-they appear great rents in the very heart of the mountain though they are not, being at the side of it, but other huge crags arising round it give the appearance to Nevis of a shattered heart or Core in itself. These Chasms are 1500 feet in depth and are the most tremendous places I have ever seen— they turn one giddy if you choose to give way to it. We tumbled in large stones and set the echoes at work in fine style. Sometimes these chasms are tolerably clear, sometimes there is a misty cloud which seems to steam up and sometimes they are entirely smothered with clouds. After a little time the Mist cleared away but still there were large Clouds about attracted by old Ben to a certain distance so as to form as it appeared large dome curtains which kept sailing about, opening and shutting at intervals here and there and everywhere: so that although we did not see one vast wide extent of prospect all round we saw something perhaps finer-these cloudveils opening with a dissolving motion and showing us the mountainous region beneath as through a loophole— these cloudy loopholes ever varying and discovering fresh prospect east, west, north and south. Then it was misty again, and again it was fair-then puff came a cold breeze of wind and bared a craggy chap we had not yet seen though in close neighbourhood. Every now and then we had overhead blue Sky clear and the sun pretty warm. I do not know whether I can give you an Idea of the prospect from a large Mountain top. You are on a stony plain which of course makes you forget you are on any but low ground-the horizon or rather edges of this plain being above 4000 feet above the Sea hide all the Country immediately beneath you, so that the next object you see all round next to the edges of the flat top are the Summits of Mountains of some distance off. As you move about on all sides you see more or less of the near neighbour country according as the Mountain you stand upon is in different parts steep or rounded-but the most new thing of all is the sudden leap of the eye from the extremity of what appears a plain into so vast a distance. On one part of the top there is a handsome pile of Stones done pointedly by some soldiers of artillery; I clim[b]ed on to them and so got a little higher than old Ben himself. It was not so cold as I expected-yet cold enough for a glass of Whisky now and then. There is not a more fickle thing than the top of a Mountain-what would a Lady give to change her head-dress as often and with as little trouble! There are a good many red deer upon Ben Nevis-we did not see one-the dog we had with us kept a very sharp look out and really languished for a bit of a worry. I have said nothing yet of our getting on among the loose stones large and small sometimes on two, sometimes on three, sometimes four legs—sometimes two and stick, sometimes three and stick, then four again, then two, then a jump, so that we kept on ringing changes on foot, hand, stick, jump, boggle, stumble, foot, hand, foot (very gingerly), stick again, and then again a game at all fours. After all there was one Mrs. Cameron of 50 years of age and the fattest woman in all Inverness-shire who got up this Mountain some few years ago-true she had her servants-but then she had her self. She ought to have hired Sisyphus,-"Up the high hill he heaves a huge round-Mrs. Cameron." "Tis said a little conversation took place between the mountain and the Lady. After taking a glass of Whisky as she was tolerably seated at ease she thus began Mrs. C. Upon my Life Sir Nevis I am pique'd Still dumb ungrateful Nevis-still so cold! Here the Lady took some more whisky and was putting even more to her lips when she dashed it to the Ground for the Mountain began to grumble-which continued for a few minutes before he thus began Ben Nevis. What whining bit of tongue and Mouth thus dares Oh pain-for since the Eagle's earliest scream Did you get here? O I shall split my sides! Mrs. C. Sweet Nevis do not quake, for though I love Truly I should not like to be convey'd Ben Nevis. I must-I shall-I meet not such tit bits- O Muses weep the rest- -- But what surprises me above all is how this Lady got down again. I felt it horribly. 'Twas the most vile descent-shook me all to pieces. Over leaf you will find a Sonnet I wrote on the top of Ben Nevis. We have just entered Inverness. I have three Letters from you and one from Fanny-and one from Dilke. I would set about crossing this all over for you but I will first write to Fanny and Mrs. Wylie. Then I will begin another to you and not before because I think it better you should have this as soon as possible. My Sore throat is not quite well and I intend stopping here a few days. Read me a lesson, Muse, and speak it loud I look into the chasms, and a shroud Vapourous doth hide them,-just so much I wist And there is sullen mist,-even so much Here are the craggy stones beneath my feet,- I tread on them,-that all my eye doth meet Good-bye till to morrow. Your most affectionate Brother JOHN LXV.-TO MRS. WYLIE. Inverness, August 6 [1818]. My dear Madam- It was a great regret to me that I should leave all my friends, just at the moment when I might have helped to soften away the time for them. I wanted not to leave my brother Tom, but more especially, believe me, I should like to have remained near you, were it but for an atom of consolation after parting with so dear a daughter. My brother George has ever been more than a brother to me; he has been my greatest friend, and I can never forget the sacrifice you have made for his happiness. As I walk along the Mountains here I am |