principal places of rendezvous are on Green River, a branch of 1839. the Colorado, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, on the western side, near the 42d degree of latitude; and Pierre's Hole, a valley about one hundred miles north of the other, from which issues one of the easternmost head-waters of the Snake, or Lewis River, emptying into the Columbia. Both these places are near the sources of a branch of the Platte, there called the Sweet Water, along which lies the route of the caravans from and to Missouri. To conclude with regard to the trade in peltries, for which the countries on the northwest side of America have been hitherto principally used by the people of civilized nations. It appears to be certain that the business is declining in every part of the continent, but particularly in the territories drained by the Columbia, in consequence of the disappearance of the animals yielding the furs and skins. The Hudson's Bay Company successfully endeavor to prevent this decrease on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains, by allowing the districts in which it is perceived to remain undisturbed for some time. On the Columbia, however, where the control of that body is less absolute, and its tenure is uncertain, such precautions are not used; and every part is yearly ransacked by traders and trappers, both British and American. How long the fur trade may yet be profitably pursued beyond the mountains, it is impossible to judge from the imperfect data obtained; there is, however, reason to believe that those regions must soon be abandoned by the Hudson's Bay Company, unless some other mode of employing its capital there can be devised, or the entire possession of the territory can be secured to it. In what other pursuits besides the fur trade British capitalists may advantageously employ their funds in Northwest America, is therefore an interesting question at present. From what has been hitherto learned of those countries, they do not offer prospects of a speedy return for the investment of capital in any other way. They contain lands in detached portions, which will immediately yield to the industrious cultivator the means of subsistence, and enable him, perhaps, to purchase some foreign article's of luxury or necessity. But this is all; they produce no precious metals, or commodities, no gold nor silver, nor coffee, nor cotton, nor opium; nor are they, like India, inhabited by a numerous population, who may be easily forced to labor for the benefit of a few.

Such is the state of the fur trade in the interior of Northwest America, according to the most recent accounts. In the north Pacific, this business is no longer carried on by vessels of the United States, which have been completely excluded from the coasts, by the prohibitory measures of the Russians, and the activity of the Hudson's Bay Company. The only North American furs which now enter China by sea, are brought thither direct from New York or from London; but, in compensation for the loss of that trade, the Pacific is now traversed in all parts, by numerous American whaling vessels, giving employment to nearly four thousand seamen. For these vessels, the Sandwich Islands form the principal place of resort, although they often enter the

1839. Bay of San Francisco, in California, in order to obtain water and fresh provisions. The Sandwich Islands* are now under the authority of a native Sovereign; the Bay of San Francisco still constitutes a part of the Mexican possessions. How long will these two important places remain in their present political condition? Great Britain has pretensions to the sovereignty of Owyhee; and it is rumored that her Government has made propositions to that of Mexico for the purchase of California. Should the British determine to take possession of Owyhee, there is no probability that they could be prevented from so doing. With regard to California, however, it is not to be supposed that they would occupy the country without authorization from its present possessors; and it is scarcely possible that any Mexican administration will venture to sanction such a measure, as it would undoubtedly bring immediate ruin upon the Republic.

With regard to colonization in Northwest America, it has already been shown that the Hudson's Bay Company is adverse to the existence of a free population in its territories. The only settlement which appears to have been made under its auspices, beyond the Rocky Mountains, is that on the Wallamet, where a few old Canadian voyageurs are permitted to reside, with their 'Indian wives and half-breed families, on condition of remaining faithful to their liege lords of the company. In the neighborhood of each large factory, indeed, a portion of ground is cleared and cultivated, and dwelling-houses, mills, and shops for artisans are

* These islands have been so frequently mentioned in the course of this memoir, that a short geographical notice of them may be usefully inserted here.

They are in number ten, situated in the north Pacific, just within the limits of the torrid zone, between 18 and 22 degrees of latitude, about three thousand miles, or twenty days' sail southwest from the mouth of the Columbia, and about twice that distance from Canton, which lies nearly due west from them. The largest of the islands, Owyhee, (or Hawaii, as it is also sometimes written,) is about four thousand miles in superficial extent, and is supposed to contain eighty thousand inhabitants. The principal port is Honoruru, in the island of Woahoo, or Oahu, said to be the most fertile and agreeable of the group. They were discovered by Cook in 1778, and surveyed by Vancouver, who, in 1794, obtained from Tamahamaha, King of Owyhee, the cession of that island to Great Britain, as related at page 138. Tamahamaha died in 1819, after having reduced all the Sandwich Islands under his authority; and they are at present governed by his reputed grandson, Kauikeaouli, or, as he styles himself, Tamahamaha III.

The Christian religion was established, or rather the ancient religion was overthrown, after the death of Tamahamaha; and several missionaries, nearly all of them Americans, of the Presbyterian church, are at present engaged in propagating their doctrines among the people. Some time since, two French Catholic priests entered the same field as missionaries; but they were persecuted, branded as idolaters, and at length driven from the islands by the Government, at the instigation, it is supposed, of the Protestants. The affair was forgotten until last year, when the French frigate Artemise arrived at Honoruru, and retribution was exacted for the alleged outrages, in a manner entirely conformable with the honor and glory of the Grande Nation.

The value of these islands to the commerce of the north Pacific is incalculable. They form, indeed, a hotel and storehouse for the refreshment and supply of vessels, situated in the most convenient position, immediately on the highway between Asia and America. Their importance as a place of resort for the whaling vessels of the United States may be estimated from the fact, that during the months of September, October, and November, 1839, they were visited by thirty-three ships, four brigs, and one schooner, all American, employed in that branch of fishery. It is scarcely necessary to add, that, for the peace and freedom of navigation of the Pacific, the Sandwich Islands should continue politically independent. This is, how ever, scarcely to be expected.

erected; but these improvements are all entirely subservient to the uses and objects of the company; all proceedings not strictly connected with its pursuits being discouraged, and all persons not under its authority being treated as intruders. Of the persons in the employment of the association, a small number only are white men; and rarely is a white woman to be seen in its territories. The half-breed voyageurs, trappers, and hunters, are better, and less expensive, than any others who could be obtained; and the Indian and half-breed women are the most useful helpmates, with whom all ties may, moreover, be easily dissolved. There is, in consequence, little prospect of the diffusion of the pure Anglo-Saxon race through countries possessed by the Hudson's Bay Company.

The first emigrations from the United States for the purpose of settlement, without any special commercial views, in the countries of the Columbia, appear to have been made in 1832. Three years afterwards, a small colony of Americans was established on the Wallamet, about seventy miles from its mouth, under the direction of Mr. Jason Lee, and other Methodist clergymen; and since that period, the number of citizens of the United States permanently residing beyond the Rocky Mountains has been much increased. With regard to the condition of these settlements, no information has been recently obtained. In 1837 they were all prospering; and it may be supposed that they are continuing to do well, inasmuch as a large number of emigrants sailed for the Columbia from New York in the autumn of last year, under the superintendence of one of the founders of the Wallamet colony; and other persons are said to be now in that city preparing for a similar expedition.

It is not, however, by means of such long and dangerous voyages that citizens of the United States are to effect settlements in Northwest America; and it will doubtless be the care of their Government to render smoother and more secure the routes across the continent to those countries, lying entirely within the undisputed limits of the Republic. In the possession of these routes, the Americans have infinite advantages over the British, and all other nations, for occupying the regions in question; and nothing more is required to render the journey through them safe and easy, than the establishment of a few posts, at convenient distances apart, on a line between the Missouri and the passes of the Rocky Mountains, which may serve as forts to overawe the savages, and as caravanserais for the repose, and possibly even for the supply, of travellers. When this has been done, the American settlements on the Columbia will soon acquire that degree of extent and stability, which will render nugatory all claims on the part of other nations to the possession of those countries.

Within the last five or six years the Government as well as the people of the United States have begun to devote their attention seriously to matters connected with the northwest regions of this continent. Numerous petitions have been presented, and motions have been made and discussed, in both Houses of the Federal Legislature, for the annulment of the existing arrange

1839.

1839. ment with Great Britain, the military occupation of those territories, and the extension of American jurisdiction over them; and the Executive has been sedulously engaged in collecting the information which may be necessary in order to place the subject in a proper light, and to render movements effective at the proper time. These proceedings are all so recent, and so well known, that details respecting them would be needless. Suffice it to say, that no resolution has been taken on any of the plans proposed; and that the position of the American Government with regard to the territories claimed for the United States on the Pacific, continues as fixed by its conventions with Great Britain, Russia, and Mexico.*

The writer has now completed the task assigned to him, by presenting an exposition of the most important circumstances relative to the discovery and occupation of the northwest coasts and territories of North America, by the people of various civilized nations, and of the pretensions advanced by the Governments of those nations in consequence. To indicate farther the course which should be pursued on the part of the United States with regard to their claims, lies not within his province. To conclude: he has, as he conceives, demonstrated that the titles of the United States to the possession of the regions drained by the river Columbia, derived from priority of discovery and priority of occupation, are as yet stronger, and more consistent with the principles of national right, than those of any other Power, from whatsoever source derived. That those regions must be eventually possessed by the people of the United States only, no one acquainted with the progress of settlement in the Mississippi valley during the last fifteen years will be inclined to question; but that Great Britain will, by every means in her power, evade the recognition of the American claims, and oppose the establishment of an American population on the shores of the Pacific, may be confidently expected, from the dispositions evinced by her Government in all its recent discussions with the United States.

* That the British Government observes its engagements with equal strictness, there is some reason to doubt; inasmuch as it is said that a large tract in the angle formed by the Pacific and the Strait of Fuca, north of Bulfinch's Harbor, has been recently granted in full possession to the Hudson's Bay, or some other company, which is actually engaged in dividing and selling the lands.

APPENDIX.

A.

EXTENT OF THE PART OF THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA SEEN BY FRANCIS DRAKE IN 1579.

All that is known respecting Drake's visit to the northwest coast of America, has been derived from two narratives of his expedition, which

are

1. "The Famous Voyage of Sir Francis Drake into the South Sea, and there hence, about the whole globe of the earth; begun in the year of our Lord 1577: by Francis Pretty;" published in London by Hakluyt, in 1589, in his "Voyages and Navigations of the English ;" and

2. "The World Encompassed by Sir Francis Drake, collected out of the Notes of Mr. Francis Fletcher, Preacher in this employment, and compared with divers others' Notes, that went in the same voyage." It was published in 1652; the name of the compiler is not known. Fletcher's Journal is still preserved in manuscript in the British Museum; Burney, who consulted it, could, however, gather nothing from it, in addition to what is published. The Famous Voyage is undoubtedly one of the "divers others' notes" mentioned in the title, as whole sentences, and even paragraphs, are the same in both narratives.*

The Famous Voyage is a plain and succinct account, in general sufficiently clear, of what the writer saw, or believed to have taken place, during the voyage. With regard to the extent of coast observed by Drake on the northwestern side of California, he says only what is contained in the following paragraph :

"The 5th day of June, being in 43 degrees of the pole arctic, being speedily come out of the extreme heat, we found the air so cold that our men, being pinched with the same, complained of the extremity thereof; and the further we went, the more the cold increased upon us. Whereupon, we thought it best for that time to seek the land, and did so, finding it not mountainous, but low plain land, and we drew back again without landing, till we came within 38 degrees towards the line; in which height it pleased God to send us into a fair and good bay, with a good wind to enter the same. In this bay we anchored on the 17th of June." After which, the writer goes on to describe the occurrences on shore.

Nothing is here said of the latitude, or of the day of the month, in which the land was first seen; it is, however, to be inferred from the context, that they did not advance far towards the north after the 5th of June, on which they were in the latitude of 43. Such was the opinion of Hak

*The part of the Famous Voyage relating to the northwest coast may be found in the third volume of the reprint of Hakluyt's Collection, page 523. The World Encompassed is contained in the second volume of Osborne's Collection of Voyages, page 434.