ALEXANDRIA. A FIRST OF SEPTEMBER IN THE PLAINS OF LOWER EGYPT. Alexandria the cradle of the Plague-Its ruins-Pompey's Pillar, and Cle opatra's Needles-The Necropolis-The Plague and Khumseen winds -Plains of Ramlah-Projected Expedition-Mr. Snow-A disap- pointment-The start-Voyage on the Mahmoudieh Canal-The mir- age of the Desert-Songs of the crew-Mr. Giorgio Adib-Our Sport- ing costumes-The heroic Snow-A ferocious charger-The Dubbah- Rice fields-Fencing in Egypt-A stopper-Snow's mishap-The Halouf afoot-Beaters brought to a stand-still-Breaking cover-The A PILGRIMAGE TO THE SHRINE OF ST. HUBERT. Half-pay-Resolve to visit the Shrine of St. Hubert-The Meuse-An agreeable companion-Huy-The Valley of Houyeux-The botanist- Supposed lunacy-The "Griviere"-A bad night's rest-A fray-Dif. ference of opinion-An eclaircissement-St. Hubert and hydrophobia -The "Sainte Etole-The Ardennes-Game found in its forests-The Brothers Titeux-The "Converserie"-Life of St. Hubert-Arrival at the shrine-Relics-Number of pilgrims-The "Neuvaine"-Its SUCH, gentle Reader! is now our lamented and lamentable case; for all things in this sublunary world must eventually come to an end the meditations of the philosopher, the lays of the bard, the triumphs of the warrior, and the exploits of the sportsman, are ever, in the long chase of Time, doomed to succumb beneath his unrelenting scythe-finally to die the "death"-and be then, too often, alas! for ever buried in the cold, cold "earth" of oblivion ! Convinced of this truth, and wishing, with the best possible grace, to throw the reins on hunter's neck, and quietly lead him, before dead beaten and quite broken down, to his stall of rest, we have,though he may still be well equal to our weight,-in anticipation of the moment when old age and infirmity shall have rendered his footsteps insecure, prudently dismounted, and laying aside the ponderous boar-spear and unerring rifle, ere Old Father Time should shake them out of a grasp, then rendered tremulous by the load of years, comfortably ensconced ourselves in the snug arm-chair of repose and retirement, where, surrounded by the sylvan spoils and trophies of our youthful days, we trust to kind Memory's aid for future pastime, and, like the poet's crippled and gout-ridden good fox-hunting old country squire of yore, who still found 10 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. Long by the paddock's humble pale confined, How would he dwell on each vast antler there! so do we now oftentimes muse away the passing hour, in the recesses of our snug little sanctum, ever surrounded by the spoils of the chase, by our books and drawings-those records and memorials of bygone times, our old double barrel now idly resting against the wall, but recalling by its very presence, many a gladdening souvenir and soul-stirring thought; whilst to our heated fancy, almost starting out of their deep frames,-those delusive productions of the painter's skill, the images of a few old comrades and valued friends, sharers in many a day of sport, of danger, and of toil; of many a feat performed by field and flood, in foreign and far-distant lands, appear to rise from their canvas tenements, to gladden with their smiles, and encourage us in the pleasing task, as we thus record our ancient ties and never-ceasing friendship, and embody, as it were with the strong impress of actual presence or recent occurrence, the otherwise shadowy and flickering Recollection of deeds long past, and of persons, many of whom, alas! are now gone by for ever! "So kindred objects kindred thoughts inspire, As summer clouds flash forth electric fire." - Thus by the help of "memory," what associations do we not recall! what pleasing images do we not perpetually conjure up ! Even now, as, in the dreary month of November, the rain and sleet pattering against our casement, the wind mournfully sighing through the dark foliage of the ancient pines overshadowing our rustic abode, whilst comfortably rolled up in a shaggy Albanian capote, and seated in our old camp chair, by a blazing fire; with what satisfaction do we not look round on objects, which-by embodying anew Sporting recollections long since extinct-appear, as it were, to annihilate time, space, and distance, to transport us anew to the sunny regions of the south, and recalling times and events of our youth, inspire us afresh with all its exciting and buoyant feelings! As we cast a glance around, what a banquet presents itself, on which memory may feast, even to repletion! Yon rough and shaggy bear-skin, suspended from the wall, and against which rests,--embedded in its rugged surface,--the picture INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 11 of an old and tried companion, our partner in every toil and danger, recalls, as we cast our eye on its huge dimensions, the burning sun, the boundless wilds, and thorny jungles of Hindostan, whose pathless tracks we used together fearlessly to explore in search of their savage denizens. Methinks we e'en now can hear the mournful bleating of the elk, the wild screech of the pea-fowl, the sad though fearful wails of the hyæna, as,-wandering again in fancy through the wilderness,—we bring again to mind the death-struggle of that shaggy monster whose spoils are even now spread out before us! In contemplating yon spiral horns, relics of the lustrous, darkeyed antelope, from which depends the leopard's skin game-bag, can we not fancy ourselves once more scouring over the bare and scorched up plains of the Deckan, our spear well poised, our gallant little "Lamp-lighter" on his full mettle, as he fearlessly bounds acrsos ledges of rock and dry "nullahs"—over ravines and watercourses-in rapid pursuit of the wounded but still flying deer! In handling this enormous tusk, plucked from the foaming jaws of the bristly boar, and now converted into a dog-call, do we not almost feel the monster's burning breath as we erst did of yore, whilst lying unhorsed, and helplessly extended at the feet of the noble steed who so bravely carried us on that eventful day, but then stood breathless, sobbing, and exhausted from the effects of so prolonged a chase, whilst through a fearful gash inflicted in his heaving flank by the expiring savage, the bright red stream slowly dripped to the ground, and rudely bespattered our prostrate and disabled person with crimson "gouts o' blood." But leave we for awhile the sunny land of Ind. Look at yon graceful head and small branching antlers of the roebuck, on which, with the short "couteau de chasse," hangs the "calañez❞—the broad-brimmed national castor of Spain-accompanied by its embroidered gaiters, its gay "bottinas." At this sight, Andalusia's rugged sierras and dark cork-wooded forests, the (in spite of Cervantes) still interesting land of romance occur to our mind's eye; and as the ken glances on the maugrabin haïck, in which our nether person is even now enshrouded, we can again almost fancy ourselves on Afric's shores, at the foot of the snowy Atlas, amidst those fierce wild hordes of barbarians-those savage descendants of the Numidians of old-whilst the spoils of the sylph-like gazelle, hanging over the pilgrim's crucifix and rosary, transport us in thought amidst whirlwinds of the hot Khumseen, borne by the "desert ship"-the enduring camel-o'er the burning sands of Lybia, to the foot of the Pyramids, and thence through the land of Goshen, following in the footsteps of the children of Israel, even to the bounds of Palestine, of Syria's "land of roses," across the flowery plains of Sharon; till, arrived in the holy city of David, by visiting the last scene of our Redeemer's sufferings-the Mount of Calvary and Sainted Sepulchre, we earn the once-valued privileges and sacred title of Hadjee, or pilgrim. Thus our wandering thoughts, quicker even than the bright rays |