As it was principally at the suggestion of old Hadge that we had undertaken our present expedition, we placed ourselves entirely under his auspices, and he appeared proud of having an opportunity of proving that his former accounts of the beauty and richness of the country we were about to visit had in no way been exaggerated. As we pulled up the river Martine, a magnificent prospect presented itself to the admirer of nature: in the remote background was the gigantic and snow-capped Atlas, appearing to bear up as of old-the heavens on his broad shoulders; to our left ran down bold and wooded heights, ramifications of the more distant and mightier mass; whilst across a wide and fertile plain, the town of Tetuan, with its white buildings, appeared like a large camp pitched on the hills, which arose at the distance of some five or six miles. Nor to the sportsman were objects wanting to lend an interest to the scene: large flocks of duck, teal, and widgeon, were constantly passing over our heads; the wooded heights, we were assured, harboured numerous wild boars; whilst the extensive plain before us had every appearance of being well stocked with lesser game. : The very waters over which we smoothly glided appeared redolent with life the fresh-water turtle, disturbed by our near approach to the bank where they were basking in the rays of the setting sun, slipped into the protecting fluid; and large fishes either disturbed by our skiff, or in pursuit of their prey-rose out of their native element, fell into it again with a loud splash, and thus, oft ruffled the smooth bosom of the sluggish stream. One fine large member of the finny tribe managed, however, to make a summerset into our canoe, much to the satisfaction of old Hadge, who as he quietly inserted the blade of a huge clasp-knife into the head of our unexpected visitor-asked us if, in our country, fish were as fine and plentiful as here, and promised to have the one in question, cooked that very evening for supper. The sun had set ere we got ashore; and-it being requisite to obtain permission from the Governor of Tetuan to proceed to that town, messengers were despatched thither; whilst in the meantime at the suggestion of old Hadge-we determined to take up our quarters for the night at the building near the river's edge dignified by the name of "Custom House," which, however, was but a miserable khan,* with a guard of a few soldiers to protect the revenue. Although-as has been remarked-the scenery amongst which we found ourselves bore anything but what our preconceived notions had formed of an African aspect, still every object we met with, convinced us of a sudden transition from a Christian to a Mahomedan country-from a land of civilization to one of barbarism -and the contrasts were so marked, that it was with difficulty we could bring ourselves to the conviction that so great a change had been brought about in a few short hours. True, as in Andalusia, • A building for the accommodation of travellers. -we still beheld the graceful date-tree, the thorny cactus, and blooming aloe-those vegetable traces of Moorish occupation in Spain: Nature was in many respects unaltered, though on a larger and much more magnificent scale; but man and the works of his hands were no longer the same; and the shrill cries of the muezzin from the tall minar, the turbaned and haïk* enveloped soldiery before us, together with one or two spectral-looking and shrouded figures near a well, convinced us that we were at once in the land of fanaticism, of intolerance, and jealousy and by none of the followers of the Prophet have I even beheld these qualities carried to such an extent as amongst the Maugrabins of the Western coast of Barbary. Thanks to old Hadge, we obtained admittance into the khan; though the scowling looks of the guard, with the threatening tone in which their few strongly-guttural words were pronounced, proved us not to be the most welcome of visitors: but Hadge was a man of influence in the land, and his presence ensured us the possession of a small matted room, where-after clearing away the remnants of our sea-stock, together with the fish-of which a capital mess had been made, we all lay down on our boat-cloaks, with the saddle-bags for pillows, and, though not exactly on beds of down, managed nevertheless to sleep pretty soundly through the hours of darkness. Next morning we were up with the dawn; and, after long awaiting the arrival of the horses we had ordered on the preceding night, stowing our scanty luggage on a couple of donkeys, we started on foot for Tetuan, across an extensive plain of some five or six miles in extent. Hadge-not wishing to leave his property behind-put us under the charge of an escort, and recommended us at the same time to keep together, saying he could not be answerable for anything which might happen to such as straggled from the party, as he was obliged to acknowledge that the generality of the natives were extremely hostile to Franks. For a couple of hours we slowly trudged along through fields whose fertility did not belie their more distant appearance; Indian corn, maize, barley, and beans, appeared in endless variety; and as the refreshing breeze of a May morning blew over the scented blossom of the latter, we inhaled the richest and sweetest of perfumes. On approaching the gardens which surround the town, Nature showed herself, if possible, yet more prodigal in her gifts; and as we now wound through deep and narrow lanes, bordered on each side by flowering aloes or gigantic cactus, -the fig, the sugar-cane, and the vine, afforded us a pleasing and grateful shade. Ascending a rugged causeway, we finally reached the high and turreted walls of Tetuan, and, passing under a large Moresco archway, at last entered the town, though not before we had propitiated *The haik is a cowled garment of coarse striped woollen cloth, in universal wear on the coast of Barbary, whose inhabitants are called "Maugrabins" from " maugrib," the Arabic for the west. the surly doorkeeper by a present, which we understood it was always customary for strangers to offer. Scenes of the most novel sort now presented themselves to us whilst proceeding through the narrow and filthy lanes, bordered on each side by tall buildings, presenting nothing but bare and naked walls, unless occasionally broken by small openings having much the appearance of loop-holes. As we advanced through these evidences of jealousy, insecurity, and watchful care, our progress was occasionally impeded by strings of laden camels, which nearly blocked up the narrow thoroughfare; or, stealthily gliding past us with noiseless steps, some spectrallooking figure, enveloped from head to foot in white garments, their faces carefully concealed under a muslin covering, and their feet buried in huge yellow Morocco boots, left us in doubt whether we in reality looked on the fair form of woman, or if the shapeless and graceless objects before us were not the mere offspring of a disordered fancy. We were, however, warned that we had better not allow our infidel gaze to rest on these sepulchral-looking Houris ; -and hurrying through this part of the town-our Jewish guide conducted us to the quarter of his brethren of Israel, if possible more filthy than the portion we had already traversed, but presenting scenes of a much less gloomy description. Since the days of Ferdinand and Isabella, when this unhappy race was expelled from Spain, they have frequented in great numbers the whole of the Barbary coast, where, though subject to the severest extortions and greatest oppression, they still carry on an extensive traffic, and manage to accumulate riches. In the cities, a separate, walled-in quarter is assigned to them, the gates of which are locked after dark; and woe to the poor Yahoudee* who is so unfortunate as to be caught out of bounds after that hour! Solely intent on gain, they allow no opportunity to escape of increasing their hoards, and in these Barbarian cities (in every sense of the word) the posada, or hostellerie for the accommodation of the Frankish traveller, is invariably kept by a son of Israel. Hurrying us through an apparent combination of misery and filth, our guide and host, Mr. Bendurlack, at last halted in a wretched lane, opposite a house of the most lowly appearance; but no sooner were bolt and bar withdrawn at his summons, than we were astonished at the contrast which the interior presented to our view. We entered a spacious " patio," or court, paved with marble, in the midst of which a handsome fountain threw up its cool and refreshing waters; a verandah, supported by Moorish pillars and arches, ran round the four sides of the square; and here, to receive us, were assembled the ladies of the establishment. The contrast presented by the male and female part of the Jewish nation has often been a theme of wonder; and whilst the small stature, mean appearance, and ignoble countenances of the men are the appropriate types of their moral qualifications, the very perfec * The distinguishing appellation of the Jews throughout the whole of Islam. tion of female charms is often to be met with in the dark-eyed Jewess. It is related that Chateaubriand, on returning from his Eastern travels, was asked if he could assign a reason why the women of the Jewish race were so much handsomer than the men, when he gave the following one: "Jewesses," he said, "have escaped the curse which alighted upon their fathers, husbands, and sons. Not a Jewess was to be seen among the crowd of priests and rabble who insulted the Son of God, scourged him, crowned him with thorns, and subjected him to ignominy and the agony of the cross. The women of Judea believed in the Saviour, and assisted and soothed him under afflictions. A woman of Bethany poured on his head precious ointment, which she kept in a vase of alabaster. The sinner annointed his feet with perfumed oil, and wiped them with her hair. Christ, on his part, extended his mercy to the Jewesses. He raised from the dead the son of the widow of Nain, and Martha's brother, Lazarus. He cured Simon's mother-in-law; and the woman who touched the hem of his garment. To the Samaritan woman he was a spring of living water, and a compassionate Judge to the woman in adultery. The daughters of Jerusalem wept over him: the holy woman accompanied him to Calvary, brought balm and spices; and, weeping, sought him in the sepulchre. ' Woman, why weepest thou?' His first appearance after the resurrection was to Mary Magdalene. He said to her, ' Mary.' At the sound of his voice, Mary Magdalene's eyes were opened, and she answered, Master.' The reflection of some very beautiful ray must have rested on the brow of the Jewesses.' "" On the present occasion we found Madame Bendurlack a fine specimen of the matrons of Israel; but as her daughters, the stately, dark-eyed Esther, and the fascinating and smiling Seemah, have already been described in a former work, the reader is referred to the author's "Excursion along the Shores of the Mediterranean" for an account of their transcendent beauty, their sultana-like appearance, and the richness of their costly and becoming dresses," which struck us mute with astonishment. We fancied ourselves transported to some scene in the "Arabian Nights' Entertainments," nor could we convince ourselves that these elegant creatures were the daughters of the miserable publican who stood before us.. we approached, their manners did not belie their appearance; they addressed us in tolerable Spanish, welcomed us to their house, and hoped we should find everything needful to refresh us after our fatiguing march. Common gallantry, of course, dictated the answer, that we set at naught all fatigue and hardship, when it was repaid by the sight of so much beauty and such an affable reception. They readily replied, that there was something more substantial in store for us; and withdrawing a handsome curtain which screened one of the Saracenic arches, displayed to our hungry gaze a well-laid breakfast table, with knives, forks, and every other European comfort and appliance to boot. Having duly honoured the feast, put our cigars in requisition, and withdrawn the curtain, which did duty for a door, we were enabled to contemplate the "Jewish sisters," who, on the opposite side of the verandah, appeared to be busily engaged at their embroidery, though, I have no doubt, they were all the time perfectly aware of, and scarcely displeased at the admiration which they excited. They were both eminently handsome; but in Esther, the elder, were more strongly marked the characteristics of her nation, as we might form the beau ideal of a Judith-the clear, olive complexion, the raven tresses, the deeply-chiselled features, and, above all, the piercing black eye so clearly proclaimed an eastern origin, as not to be for a moment mistaken. The good breakfast of our host having recruited us from the fatigues of our long walk, we proposed paying a visit to the British vice-consul, for the purpose of endeavouring to obtain an interview with Hash-Hash, the Basha or Governor of Tetuan, who, from his enormous size, we had heard represented as a curiosity well worth beholding. Mine host, however, informed us that before we could venture to traverse the town, it would be requisite-as a guard from insult and violence-to be accompanied by a soldier of the Emperor of Morocco, who would, for the remuneration of a dollar a-day, become answerable for our protection and safety. Though we at first thought this a manœuvre of Mr. Bendurlack, in order to take a little money out of our pockets, we soon became convinced of the necessity of such an escort. As we passed the swarthy and savage Bedouins, enveloped in their cowled haïks, and armed with their long guns, scowling looks and the word khelb (dog) muttered between the clenched teeth, proved the enmity of these bigoted followers of the Prophet, which they, however, dared not show more openly. But the children who ran after us in crowds were more prodigal of the marks of their regard. Shouts and hisses of execration were more than once followed by stones and mud, when the janizary would cause a diversion in our favour by lustily laying about him with his stave, and thus dispersing for a time this nest of young hornets. Amidst this sort of skirmishing, we reached the house of Mr. Butler, our vice-consul, from whom we met with every civility, and who offered to procure for us an interview with his excellency the Basha; but telling us at the same time, that, for a peep at his bloated person, was expected from every traveller the offering of a doubloon, he deterred us from the desire of satisfying our curiosity at such an expense, but offered to procure us a sight much better worth beholding--viz., a sort of joust or tournament which was to take place on the following day on the occasion of a marriage feast ; and when he assured us we might see to advantage some Barbaresque feats of horsemanship, we gladly acceded to this arrangement, took our leave, and, under the watchful care of Hassan, our janizary, regained in safety the abode of Mr. Bendurlack, where we passed the remainder of the day in taking Arabic lessons from, |