though a stranger to you, yet as one most sincerely attached to Mr. Atherton, to join in condolence with you on this occasion, for the loss, (and I write it from my heart) of the most amiable, the most excellent, and the most promising young man, I ever met with; a young man who would not have done less honour to his connections, than he would have done credit to the gentleman, who is now, unhappily, (if I may so say with due submission to the Divine Will) obliged to return without him." Mr. A. was privately buried at night in the cloister of a neighbouring Convent, Mr. D. performing the funeral service; and a marble tablet was afterwards placed to mark the spot of his friend's interment.

The invalid child having derived considerable advantage from his winter's residence in a southern climate, the party left Hieres in April, 1789, for the German Spa, proposing to recommit the object of their solicitude to the care of Dr. Hanster, his affectionate physician. In their route, they passed through Nismes and Vienne, two places which present abundant gratification to the antiquarian traveller. En passant, they were struck with the general spirit of disaffection which was spreading amongst the lower orders, as the ominous prelude to that disorganizing Revolution which shortly broke out. The country appeared on the eve of some general commotion, and the people only waiting to be put into action. In many of the southern towns, they had actually proceeded to extremities; whilst it would appear from the existing circumstances, that a complete remedy for the evils complained of, would not be found until such time as the whole system of finance had undergone a thorough reform. Such was the conclusion which, amongst many reflections detailed in his diary, presented itself to Mr. D.'s mind, from the different conversations and occurrences which interested him during this part of his journey. Arriving at Paris, early in May, a few days previous to the meeting of the National Assembly, that cradle of the Revolution, at Versailles; and only a few *This worthy man, and pious Christian, visited Mr. and Mrs. Daubeny after their return to England -but was never heard of after the melancholy events of the Revolution which overran Germany.

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weeks previous to the destruction of the Bastile; they saw the Royal Family at the last exhibition, probably, of Court Parade for the Revolution, once commenced, marched on with hasty strides, to its calamitous and disgraceful conclusion. The travellers were not sorry to take their leave of a city in this trembling state of approaching convulsion. They reached Spa on the 22d May, where, resuming their former quarters, they fixed their abode for the season.

On the 19th August the party proceeded up the Rhine, on their projected route to Italy, as far as Basil. Continuing their course through Switzerland to Geneva, they sojourned there a few days. The reflections which arose in Mr. D.'s mind, from the objects which chiefly attracted his attention in passing through the towns of Switzerland, are thus concluded:-"Such is Reformation, when carried into effect by those who have more zeal than judgment; who, in their anxiety to steer wide of the superstition of Popery, are contented to plunge themselves into the depths of absurdity; and who, in seeking to be wise above their more primitive brethren, become fools. The primitive Christians were kneeling Christians-but those to whom we are now alluding, may properly be called peripatitick Christians; whilst their Church, instead of being distinguished by the title of the Church Militant, might be characterised by the more appropriate one of the Church ambulant. The service of the Church (Berne) bears a close resemblance to the Presbyterian form, commencing with a psalm; to which succeeded a long drawling prayer from the pulpit--a text was then taken from the Bible, placed on the cushion; upon which we left the preacher (with a great ruff about his neck, similar to those worn in the days of Queen Elizabeth) haranguing his audience ad libitum."

"At Geneva we had another opportunity of witnessing the improvement which Calvinistic Reformation is supposed to have introduced into the primitive Church. The audience were sitting with their hats on &c."-" thereby countenancing the idea of all the congregation being equally holy, as the elect of

God. The service began with a chapter out of the New Testament-Calvinists not being particularly fond of the Bible as a whole, but principally attached to those parts of it which appear to favour their own pre-established system. The chapter was followed by the commandments and a psalm; concluding with a sermon. The prayers of the people, and absolution of the priests, constituted no part of the service; whilst the Sunday at Geneva presents a motley exhibition of rigid Calvinism, mixed up with the levity of the Papal system."

From Geneva the party made the usual tour to Chamouni; in which route, whoever disregards the inconveniences which he must expect to meet with, amidst mountains impassable but in vehicles of a peculiar construction, called Charabanes, will certainly view nature in some of her grandest and most picturesque scenery.

On the 14th September the party proceeded towards Italy, amidst the mountains of Savoy, where they encountered the unhappy spectacle of the French Royalists, escaping in all directions, from the burst of that tremendous Revolution which shortly deluged the Continent of Europe with blood. Passing over Mount Cenis, they met the Countess D'Artois, the King of Sardinia's daughter, amongst the fugitives; owing to which, and the consequent detention of all passengers until her Royal Highness had passed the mountain, together with the impossibility of procuring the usual conveyances, the sufferings of their invalid child were such, as for a time, to deprive his parents of almost every expectation of saving him. Having at length passed the great boundary of Italy, they continued their route through Turin, Milan, Parma, Bologna, and Florence, to Rome; where they arrived on the 14th October, and were accommodated with lodgings in the Piazza d'Espagne.

After having been completely satiated with what is called vertu; after driving about from Churches to Palaces, from Palaces to the venerable remains of ancient pride and magnificence, and spending whole mornings in viewing collections both private and public, till their eyes were absolutely fatigued with

looking upwards; the travellers took their departure from Rome towards Naples, where they arrived on the 11th December,

At Naples, the different scenes which, in the environs of that city, attract the notice of the traveller, as Vesuvius, Portici, Possilippo, Puzzoli (the ancient Puteoli, where St. Paul landed in his way to Rome) and the ancient city of Pompeii, became of course objects of our travellers' attention; but as it is not the design of this memoir to enter upon any such descriptions, we pass on to that part of Mr. D.'s journal, which details the occurrences preceding their return from Naples to Rome.

After narrating at length, various instances of the senseless superstition by which the city of Naples is distinguished, Mr. D. observes, "The substitution of the form of religion for the real substance and vital spirit of it, is certainly not confined to Popish countries. Protestants, we lament to say, have so much to lay to their own charge, that they ought not to be too quick sighted upon this general subject of complaint; at the same time, however prevalent this stabit pro forma religion may be, even in a reformed Church, we are not, thank God, condemned to witness such flagrant instances of it, as was presented on the following occasion. Entering a Church one morning, our traveller passed up towards the High Altar, and took his stand near a striking picture, in one of the side aisles. His attention was soon drawn to a person of obvious distinction, having a gold key attached to his pocket-hole, and followed by attendants in sumptuous liveries. He took a chair close to the place where our traveller was standing; and as his prayers were uttered in an audible voice, they could be distinctly heard. They commenced with a repetition of a certain number of Ave Marias, followed by Gloria Patri, and Pater Noster. These were repeatedly gone through, from first to last, and from last to first, with such rapidity as almost to baffle comprehension, during the space of from 20 minutes to half an hour the same Crambó repititu-when one of his domestics came and pulled his Lord by the elbow; an intimation, apparently, that his prescribed time of devotion was expired-for, although in the

middle of the Pater Noster, she immediately arose from his knees, and walked out of the Church. And this, it is to be feared, is a too general specimen of Popish devotion in Italy." Being at Rome daring the Easter Festival, Mr. D., after giving a particular detail of the celebration of High Mass at St. Peter's, says, Whoever has witnessed the extreme pomp and parade of the Pope at St. Peter's on Easter Day, seated on his Throne above the Altar, td receiving in that posture thế real body and blood of his God (according to the doctrine of the Romish Church) must consider him as verifying the description of St. Paul in his Epistle to the Thessalonians, as the man of sin, who opposeth, and exalteth himself above all that is called God or that is worshipped; so that he was God, sitteth in the Temple of God, shewing himself that he is Godik sorgte ver A,“ After spending another month at Rome, the party resumed their journey homewards. Passing through Loretta, the grand object of curiosity in that town, the Santa Casa or House of the Virgin, of course engaged their attention, and gratified their most sanguine expectation. Their route lays through Ancona, Forli, Bologna, and Ferrara, to Venice; where they found falls and agreeable occupation during their short stay. Arrived at Trent, Mr. D. makes the following observations relative to the Church of St. Marie Maggiore, in which the Council of Trent was held 1544. "There is a picture preserved in the Church commemorative of the Council; in which the members are seated according to their respective order and dignity: this Council commenced in 1554 and terminated in 1563, after doing little or nothing that it professed to do; being too much under the influence of the Pope to effect any real reformation. The Christian world was conséquently disappointed. I was much surprised to observe the smallness of the Church, which is certainly ill calculated for a Congress of such a comprehensive nature, as that Council ought to have been, had it been fairly held."

Proceeding through the Tyrol and Swabia to Schaffhausen,