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HEIGHTS OF ROADS AND PASSES
HEIGHTS OF TOWNS, VILLAGES AND HAMLETS
RAINFALL IN NORTH-WEST YORKSHIRE, &C.
CRAVEN MILITIA DURING THE FRENCH WARS
LANDHOLDERS IN A.D. 1086
A LIST OF THE INHABITANTS OF CRAVEN, AND BORDERING
DISTRICTS, FIVE CENTURIES AGO
29
A LIST OF CRAVEN MEN, WHO FOUGHT AT FLODDEN FIELD,
SUMMARY OF CHAPTERS.
PART I.-WESTERN DIVISION.
CHAPTER I., GIGGLESWICK
67
Introduction Character of Craven and the North-Western Dales - Land of
mountain and cataract—A paradise of wild flowers and ferns-History and
Antiquities-Hotel and house accommodation Craven diet-Longevity -
Unrivalled Air-Cures-Comparison with the Black Forest and Switzerland
-Giggleswick-An old British town-Domesday-Author's correspondence
with Continental authorities- A reference to German charters of the 8th
century, shewing the origin and meaning of Giggleswick-The lost Tarn
Ebbing and Flowing Well-Other English "tidal" wells-The British canoe
-First mention of the church-Some early charters-Old families—
Archdeacon Paley-Amusing Anecdotes-Recent discoveries in the church
-"Strainge Parsons "-Account of the Market Cross-The Grammar School
-The Museum and its contents.
CHAPTER II., SETTLE
81
Old Settle-The post-town of the parish-Unique sun-dial-Castleberg and its
watch-tower-Charter of market-Visits of old topographers-Coiners and
filers-Craven Bank-Mediæval aspects of Settle-Saxon medal found within
the market-cross-The church-Old inns-Trade-tokens-Settle during the
Civil Wars - Letter from General Lambert-The "Folly "-Proctor, the
sculptor-Some men of note-Longevity at Settle-Quality of the land-
Rainfall-Snow Castle-Modern institutions-Farms and gardens-Statistics
of trade.
Giggleswick The Mid Craven Fault-Plague Stone-Bell Hill and Pagan Fires-
Settle Bridge and Penyghent-Stackhouse-Lovely Residence - Brayshaw
and Carr Families-Locks-Return Walk.
CHAPTER IV., GIGGLESWICK SCARS
100
Giggleswick Scars-The Tarn-Ancient Canoe-Staircase and Dangerous Caves-
Ebbing and Flowing Well-Its construction and action explained A
laughable incident-An old custom-A legend of the Well-Miraculous
appearance of a lake—Feizor—Its curious name—Clapham family-Splendid
echoes-Scar top-The Schoolboys' Tower.
CHAPTER V., AROUND SMEARSIDE
107
An archæological ramble-Ancient barrow with skeleton-Dead Man's Cave-
Remains of Celtic Walls --Smearside - Splendid prospect-Roman Watch-tower
-Roman Camp - Ice-travelled stones.
CHAPTER VI., LANGCLIFFE. CATTERICK GLEN
113
A trip to Catterick-Langcliffe Hall-The Dawsons-Memorials of Sir Isaac
Newton-Langcliffe Village-Its former site-The Naked Woman Inn-
Winskill "Lang Tom," the poet-The open Moor-Catterick Force and
Glen-Lovely Scenery.
CHAPTER VII., ALL ABOUT THE VICTORIA CAVE
118
Up in the hills again-" Samson's Toe "-The Scars and their primitive inhabitants
All about the Victoria Cave-Its treasures and what they tell-Its curious
discovery and history of the exploration-Night incident-A hyæna den-
Pre-glacial remains-Sketch of mammoth by pre-glacial man-Age of deposits
-Other local caves and discoveries-Attermire, not the outer water-Its
meaning explained-Historic deductions-Old lake-Rare plants-The cave
and its remains-Occupation of caves during recent war-panics-Roman Camp
at High Hill-Scaleber Force.
CHAPTER VIII., UP RIBBLESDALE FROM SETTLE
128
Up the Ribble-The Settle and Carlisle railway-Some interesting features of its
construction-Particulars of viaducts and tunnels-Enormous difficulties-
Longest tunnels in England-Winskill Rock-Tremendous blast-Stainforth
-Its former importance-The old Knights of Stainforth-A horse's skull
found buried in Giggleswick church-Early property transactions-Stainforth
Force-A wild walk-The oldest rocks in Yorkshire-Scientific aspects of the
scenery-Glacial drift and boulders - Some remarkable examples.
CHAPTER IX., LAWKLAND AND THE SCAR CAVES
138
A lovely walk-Lanes of wild flowers-Lawkland-The Old Hall of the Inglebys
-The smallest church in Yorkshire-Cross Streets and the Roman highway-
Buckhaw Brow-Kelcowe Cave-Buckhaw Brow Cave-Cave Ha', an old bear
den-Interesting discoveries-Austwick Beck-A story of the coaching days.
CHAPTER X., CLAPHAM ...
-
145
Charming Clapham-Former aspects-Flying Horse Shoe Hotel-Its meaning
explained Ancient state of the manor - · Old families-The Church and
Market Cross-Old Manor House-Sir Michael Faraday, son of a Clapham
blacksmith-Ingleborough Hall-Romantic cascades-Old coaching days.
CHAPTER XI., INGLEBOROUGH CAVE AND GAPING GILL
153
Clapdale Castle-The Ingleborough Cave-Its discovery and history-Description
of the interior-Age of the stalactites-Floods in the cave-Extent of the
Excavations-Measurements-Clapdale Pass and Cave-Trow Gill-An extinct
waterfall-Gaping Gill-Flood scene-Descent of the Gill—A wild prospect—
Ascent of Ingleborough.
CHAPTER XII., AUSTWICK. THE NORBER BOULDERS
161
Walk to Austwick-Peculiar examples of "glaciation "-Former importance of
Austwick-Old landed families-Austwick Hall-The Church, Cross, &c.—
Some strange tales-Wild flowers-The Holly Fern here yet-Seventy kinds
of ferns collected-The famous Norber boulders-Their history and wonderful
aspects described-Nature's oldest cathedral-Effects of the Ice Age-
Ancient dried-up lakes-Robin Procter's Scar-Lovely view.
CHAPTER XIII., CAVE HUNTING ON INGLEBOROUGH
173
A land of caves, gulfs, and swallow-holes-Their origin and aspects scientifically
explained-Cave hunting on Ingleborough-A wild tramp-Long Kin holes
and cave-Marble Pot-Juniper Gulf-Simon Fell Caves-Alum Pot-Ascent
of Simon Fell-The Druids-An ancient forest-Local place names.
CHAPTER XIV., CLAPHAM TO INGLETON
178
The old road from Clapham to Ingleton-Newby and Furness Abbey-Local
properties of the Abbey-Deer park at Ribblehead-Newby Cote-Ascent of
the Scars-Caves and pot-holes-A tremendous abyss-The Craven Fault-
Rantry Hole-Cold Cotes-The Tow Scar Fault-High Leys and Holly Plat
House-Glorious prospect-Yarlsber and the Danish Camp-Ease Gill Glen
and Waterfall-Beautiful scenery, geologically explained.
CHAPTER XV., OVER THE MOORS TO BENTHAM
183
Walks between Clapham and Bentham-Newby Moor-Bolland Moor-Mewith
Head-Clapham Wood Hall and the Faradays-The Glasites-Keasden-Lumb
Falls-Queen of Fairies Chair-A tramp over Burn Moor-Four Stones, &c.
CHAPTER XVI., BENTHAM
185
Bentham - Roman and Saxon remains - The church in Domesday - Ancient
families-History of the manor - Gibson's Green and Dr. John Gibson-
Curious will-Stones fired by the Scots-A model church-Some rare relics—
Fine old bell-A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses-Bentham Registers -
Burial in woollen - List of Rectors - Public institutions - Old Grammar
School-Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham-Trade tokens-Ancient market-cross--
The Black Hole-"Tweed Dobbie" an1 Barguest-Beautiful scenery-Four
Stones-Waterscale Wood and Cave.
CHAPTER XVII., WALKS ABOUT BENTHAM
201
Bentham Plague Stone-Mortality from the Plague-Interesting Justice's Warrant
to keep" watche and warde" on the roads-Cessation of the Parish Registers
in 1665-Bentham Bridge-Three days in the Wenning-Wonderful instance
of re-animation-A walk into the next county-Robert Hall and Catherine
Parr-Lovely scenery-Wennington-Waterscale.
CHAPTER XVIII., INGLETON
205
History of Ingleton-Another Ingleton-Both held by the house of Neville-
What does Ingleton mean?-Celt and Roman-The Danish Conquest-The
Scandinavian Inglingians-Camp at Yarlsber-Ancient local fire customs-
Ingleton in Domesday-" White " towns-Ingleton in A.D. 1290-Story of the
Manor-Mediaval tenant rights-Customs in Elizabethan times-Ingleton
Hall and the Lowthers-Residence of a Lord High Chancellor-The poet
Gray at Ingleton-Twisleton and Ellerbeck disputes-The church-Old houses
-Local worthies.
CHAPTER XIX., SCIENTIFIC ASPECTS OF THE INGLETON
SCENERY
216
Causes of the scenery about Ingleton-The various rock formations-The Ingleton
Coalfield-The great Craven Fault-Sub-divisions of the Fault-Their several
directions explained-Immensity of the downthrow-Analysis of the Ingleton
Faults-The age of the Craven Fault-Igneous Dykes-Effects of the Ice Age
at Ingleton-Glacial drift and boulders-An extraordinary fragment-Ancient
lake-Examples of ice-borne boulders.
CHAPTER XX., THE INGLETON GLENS AND WATERFALLS
Gray, Southey," Barry Cornwall," and Adelaide Anne Procter at Ingleton-Turner,
the painter, at Weathercote Cave, &c.-Recent "discovery" of the Ingleton
glens Formation of an Improvement Committee Confusion in local
nomenclature-Place-names explained-The glens and scenery described—
Rare plants-Beautiful views-Scientific peculiarities of Thornton Force-
Raven Ray-An ancient lake-Keld Head- Beasley Glen-Geological aspects
- Backstone Gill Gorge-Glorious prospect-Silurian Slate quarries - Return
to Ingleton.
CHAPTER XXI., INGLEBOROUGH ITS ORIGIN, HISTORY, AND
Up Ingleborough-Its extent and character-The oldest mountain in Yorkshire-
Comparison with Snowdon-Physical structure explained-Sectional details
-Botanical aspects-List of native flowers and ferns-The creeping things-
Advent of Man-Ancient beacon-Celtic huts on the summit - Roman
occupation of Ingleborough-Analysis of the prospect-" Jubilee" fires.