property. The Fells and Tennants were also settled here at an early period, and all these families are perpetuated in the district by such names of places as Procter's High Mark, Tennant Gill, Fells' Land, &c. In the Feet of Fines for the year 1596, I find certain parties to a transfer of property were Thos. Fell and Richd. Sheffeld (plaintiffs), and John Tenant and Anthony Fell (deforciants), regarding "two messuages with lands in Bordeley, Kilnesaye, and Arnecliffe, and the moiety of a watermill in Arnecliffe." Other early transactions of a similar nature between these families also occur.

The Procters were a family of great consequence in monastic days, and were connected with the wealthy monastery at Fountains. They were at first tenants of the monks, and sometime after the dissolution of the Abbey acquired a large portion of their estates. In 1596-7, Stephen Procter, of Warsell, near Ripon, an officer in the court of Elizabeth and James I., and who was knighted at the Tower of London in 1603-4, purchased from the Greshams the whole manor and lordship of Fountains, and certain other premises, for the sum of £4500. Some years afterwards, in 1611, Sir Stephen erected, at a cost of £3000, Fountains Hall, which was built out of the ruins of the Abbot's house. The Procters settled at Bordley probably towards the end of the 15th century, and have resided there almost uninterruptedly since.

The old Hall at Bordley appears to have been re-built, according to a date at the back of the house, in 1749. It was formerly much larger, and had seven entrances, but there are now only two. There was a private chapel attached to the Hall, where the family were wont to welcome their monkish guests, and where doubtless many a prayer of thanksgiving has been heard, for safely-ended journeys across these savage fells. Attached to the chapel was a grave-yard, now known as Chapel Garth, from which several tombstones have been removed, and since used as flagstones for the barn floor.

A very interesting will of an early member of the Bordley family, one Geoffrey Procter, who died in 1524, is printed in the 5th volume of the Surtees Society's Publications. It is a quaint document, singularly elucidatory of the life and habits of the higher class of Craven yeomanry of the 15th and 16th centuries, but is unfortunately too long for quotation here.

A grandson of this Geoffrey Procter, also named Geoffrey, lived at Malham, and purchased the manor of West Malham from the Greshams, to whom the said manor had been granted by deed dated Oct. 1st, 32nd Henry VIII. In the following year, 1541, he sold to John Lambert, the founder of the family at Calton, the house and land at Calton, and by fine passed in 1544 he and his wife Wenefreda, sold to one William Preston, four messuages with lands in Malham and Hanlith. It seems, however, that this Geoffrey Procter was executed at York in 1551, for the murder of Hugh Diconson, whereby his estates were forfeited to the Crown. By deed dated 16 May, 6th Edward VI., (1552,) the manor of West Malham, with 80 messuages, 80 cottages, 2 watermills, and 2 windmills, with lands there and in Arncliffe, was again sold to one James Altham.

To the north-east of Bordley, and near the long wall (at the second gate-way) that skirts the road past the Heights Cave to Skirethorns and Grassington, is a relic of the far-distant era, when warlike hordes of skin-clad Celts occupied these remote wastes during, and long after, the Roman invasion; preferring, as they did, their own mode of life and form of worship to that of the conquering usurpers. This pre-historic relic consists of a round stone and earthern mound, about 150 feet in circumference, and 3 feet high, and was formerly surrounded by a circle of upright stones, only three of which are now left standing. On one side was a large flat stone resting upon two others, and known as the Druid's Altar. On the adjoining land an ancient iron spear-head was found some years ago, and fragments of rudely-fashioned pottery have also from time to time been turned up in the same neighbourhood. Similar stone-encircled mounds have been found on the Yorkshire Wolds.

See "Memorials of Fountains Abbey," Surtees Soc. Pub., vol. lxvii., p. 346,

From this point the tourist is barely four miles from Grassington by a decent down-hill road. This is one of the prettiest and best known resorts in Wharfedale, and the charming and wondrously luxuriant Grass Woods (long may they remain !) there, are as great a feast to the eye of taste as they are a treasure-land of interest to the botanist; in vegetable wealth, indeed, unrivalled by any similar area of woodland scenery in the shire of broad acres. At the last meeting of the Yorkshire' Naturalists' Union at Grassington, on June 20th, 1891,-a beautiful and unclouded day, ever to be remembered,-above 180 species of flowering plants and ferns were noted in the course of the day's ramble, chiefly in these woods! But this is by no means exhaustive of everything that grows in this fairy-land of shrubs and flowers. The number might, by a close observer, be very nearly doubled.

In a field called the High Close, above Grassington village, there are some ancient stone and earthen ramparts, which cover a considerable area. They are in two parts, in the plan of a Roman camp, and in the angles are several undoubted tumuli. These appear to be early British, and when examined may yield remains of the Roman-Celtic period. An old paved road can be traced upwards from the Wharfe by Scar Street, and through the village to the camp.

Last autumn when at Grassington, I was told that while lately laying down water-pipes near Hardy Grange some portions of this old pavement had been dug into two feet below the surface.

At Dry Gill about 6 miles from Grassington, on the Pateley Bridge road, are the celebrated Stump Cross Caverns. They were accidentally discovered during a search for lead in January 1860, and have since been opened out and are now shewn to visitors on application at the adjoining Moor Cock inn. The caverns, which are entered down a flight of about 50 steps, consist of a number of galleries and chambers one above the other, and these rival, perhaps, in their stalactitious adornments any of the finest spar-caves in England. The explorable extent is about 1,000 yards.

Craven Cross, the Stump Cross, so-called from an old way-side cross, stood on the road close by, and marked the boundary of Craven on the east, where it joined the old Forest of Nidderdale. The cross seems to have been demolished shortly after the Reformation.

On the same road, a little beyond, is Greenhow Hill, (1441 feet) the highest village in Yorkshire.

CHAPTER XXXI.

ROUND ABOUT KILNSEY.

Malham to Kilnsey-Arncliffe Clowder-Dowkabottom Cave - Its exploration and interesting discoveries-A Celtic habitation-A baby's tomb-Roman coinsSleets cavern-Kilnsey Hall-Wade family-Manor of Kilnsey after the Dissolution-Sheep-washings of the monks-Kilnsey Crag-Supposed ancient coast line - Glacial aspects-What does Kilnsey mean? - Dr. Whitaker's opinion- The Spurn Head Kilnsea- Comparative deductions - Discovery of coins-Coniston Church, the oldest in Craven-Tennant's Arms, Kilnsey— Sulphur Spring-Glacial mounds - Great Scar Limestone round KettlewellLead mines.

OW that we are on Malham Moors, we may as well turn our steps over the high fells in the direction of Kilnsey. From the gate at the lane-end at the Druid's Altar, near Bordley, where it opens on to the common, opposite a plantation, we follow the left wall northwards a good half-mile, to the lane which descends across the Howgill Beck to Kilnsey.

On Arncliffe Clowder, near this route, there still grows and flourishes that pretty and now scarce floral gem, the little Mountain Avens (Dryas octopetala); in June and July its rosettes of pale, golden flowers starring the greensward in some profusion, just as one finds them (though not quite so large) on the mountains of Switzerland at the present day. This is, so far as is known, its only habitat in West Yorkshire, where it has taken firm root and annually bloomed, no doubt for innumerable centuries.

Dowkabottom Cave might be visited this way, by crossing Kilnsey Moor from the above lane, 14 miles north, (that is coming by Smearbottom Lane and Lee Gate from Malham), but most people get to it from the dale at Kilnsey, whence it lies 14 miles, by an up-hill walk, to the northwest. You have to ascend the scar behind the inns (by permission), having the depression on the right, and when on the top keep west along the rising ground, when a stone "man" will be seen on an eminence ahead. The cave (1280 feet above sea-level) is situate in a hollow flat (now a rabbit-warren) at the corner of the field, about 150 yards S.E. of the cairn. A nearer and better way, perhaps, is to ascend the pastures from the Arncliffe road, about one mile beyond Kilnsey, and just before

reaching Arncliffe Cote. Go up the "Parks," and then the Knotts (now planted with trees) and the rabbit-warren, wherein lies the famous cave, is in the next pasture above. The spot, however, is bad to find, and unless the keeper is about it would, perhaps, be as well to take a guide up from Kilnsey. No dogs are allowed.

The cavern, like the Victoria Cave, near Settle, has acquired a national fame from the quantity of pre-historic and other remains found in it, and which extend over an immense period. Part of these were first brought to light about thirty years ago by those careful and indefatigable cave-workers, Mr. Henry Denny, Mr. Joseph Jackson, of Settle, and Mr. James Farrer, of Ingleborough. But prior to their investigations a bronze armlet had been accidentally discovered, as well as various fragments of iron, broken bones, charcoal, &c.

*

The present entrance to the cave is on the level bottom, and easily overlooked. It is a declivitous aperture about 45 feet long and 20 feet broad, very singularly formed by the subsidence of the rock at the surface, and the accumulated debris piled up in the centre, separates the chasm into two parts. The western division is narrow and difficult of access, but the eastern portion, consisting of five or six passages of an average height of 10 to 12 feet, but in some places allowing only of the progression of a single person, has been penetrated a distance of about 200 yards. In this part of the cave are several lofty chambers, 50 to 70 feet in altitude, and from 100 to 150 feet in circumference. There are indications on the walls of the cavern that not very long ago water has filled it to a depth of ten to twelve feet. The latter portion is now at times very wet, necessitating walking in the stream at places knee-deep. Some parts of the cavern are beautifully encrusted with delicate spar, reflecting a variety of hues, which led Bishop Pococke to exclaim after visiting the cave, "This is Antiparos in miniature, and except that cavern I have never seen its equal." This is an excellent testimonial for Dowka bottom from so experienced a traveller, but alas! much of this beauty has since ruthlessly disappeared.

In 1881 the cavern was again explored, and excavations conducted by Mr. E. B. Poulton, M.A., F.G.S., of Oxford, and a party of undergraduates from the Colleges, who spent the long summer vacation of that year in the adjoining picturesque little village of Hawkswick. They were assisted by two Grassington miners, and were provided with all the necessary appliances. The work, extending over several weeks, was carried on by these gentlemen at their own cost.

It was discovered that the original mouth of the cave lay some yards away to the west of the present entrance. The superficial floor was found to be composed of a stiff clay and fragments of tumbled rock, several

See the Proceedings of the W.R. Geol, and Polytech. Soc., 1859 and 1864-5-6.