CHAPTER XVII.

WALKS ABOUT BENTHAM.

Bentham Plague Stone-Mortality from the Plague-Interesting Justice's Warrant to keep watche and warde on the roads-Cessation of the Parish Registers in 1665-Bentham Bridge-Three days in the Wenning-Wonderful instance of re-animation-A walk into the next county-Robert Hall and Catherine Parr-Lovely scenery-Wennington-Waterscale.

BOUT midway on the right of the road, going from High to Low Bentham, and close by the gate which opens into a plot of land called Maryfield, there is a curious stone built into the wall. It is, no doubt, a Plague Stone, used for a similar purpose as that described in the neighbourhood of Giggleswick. The length of the capstone is 3 feet 3 inches, the height from the road to the rim 19 inches, the diameter of the cavity 12 inches, and its depth 6 inches. The stone is a very interesting relic of the time when pestilences of a more or less virulent type were much too prevalent in England. It is very probable that in case of any infection breaking out in one or other of the villages of Bentham, isolation was imperative, the inhabitants of the part infected being forbidden access to the other, while a cordon of watchers was stationed on the roads, preventing the passage of strangers, and forbidding likewise the inhabitants themselves to pass beyond the Plague Stone.

The greatest calamities which befel this district, and Craven generally, appear to have been in the years 1597 and 1598, and during the great plague of 1665. I find a special order was issued by the West Riding Justices in 1598, for the purpose of preventing the spread of the plague in the north. It is in the following terms :

"In regard of the p'sent Sickness in the North country; Yt is ordered that ev'y Constable w'thin this division shall sett 2 or three to watche and warde within their Constabulary, and shall see the same dulie kept as well in townes as hamletts. And that from henceforthe household'rs themselves shall keep the watche and ward accordinge to their course and not hirelynges as heretofore hath bene accustomed."†

* See p. 96.

+ Vide Record Series of the Yorkshire Archæl, and Topog. Assoc. Vol. 2, p. 126.

It is said that in 1598, so prevalent was the disease in the north that scores of towns and villages in Yorkshire, Durham, and Westmoreland had to be vigilantly watched in this way. The Assizes at Durham could not be held owing to the extent and malignancy of the outbreak. At Richmond, 2200 persons are reported to have died in this one year, and at Kendal even a larger number were similarly stricken down. During the great plague of 1665 the strictest precautions were taken, but alas! in too many instances they came too late, and whole communities were suddenly overcome by the awful death-dealing plague. What was the nature of this terrible visitation at Bentham, or whether it actually prevailed here, we have had no means of ascertaining. But it is a significant fact that the parish registers cease, and are missing, with the year 1665, which does not seem unlikely to be from the circumstances that these, and similar moveables, in which there was the slightest suspicion of contagion lurking, were destroyed during this fatal year.

But let us leave this old Plague Stone, with its unhappy memories, and journey forward to Low Bentham. Passing through the village we arrive at the substantial Wenning Bridge, and the grand old church, described in the last chapter, opposite which is the Rectory, a picturesquely situated Elizabethan residence, erected in 1884 from designs by Mr. Norman Shaw, R.A. The old Rectory was taken down and the present one built on its site.

Bentham Bridge, in the time of Christ. Fetherstone, Rector from 1616 to 1653, was the scene of one of the most remarkable rescues from a watery grave that has probably ever been recorded. Indeed, such an instance of re-animation-a human being lying three days and three nights in the river!- seems incredible, but the statement is vouched for in the following particulars :

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Strange Providence-William Foster of Newby Coates abt a Mile beyond Clapham in Craven, haveing bene travelling abroad and returning home over Bentham Bridge, leading his Horse, and haveing on a thick Cloak, ye wind being very high blew him over ye Bridge into ye water, and he was carryed doune ye stream a full Mile and He was not found till after three days and three nights, but then a Maid going to water some cows, she spy'd some parte of his foot, and calling some persons they found him covered with stones and sand, they took him up, carried him to a little House near at hand, and stripped him, supposing him dead ; but a Servant woman standing near his heade cryed out there was some life in him, for she thought she saw his hair stirr. Mrs. Fetherstone a Minister's wife then present replyed it cannot be, but observing him more wistly, they resolve to use some meanes for his recovery. Accordingly they laid him before ye Fire and chafed him-And in lesse yn three houres time he recovered so far as to speake to them, and lived after this three years and had a Daughter by his wife. This strange Providence being noysd abroad many persons called to see him as a wonder, he living in ye high road to Kendall. It was thought that his Cloak was instrumentall to save his life, for it was found wrapt abt his head 3 or 4 folde so

yt it was supposed no water got into his mouth. This Foster was great unkle to

Carr, John Cook's father in law, who told him this story and averr'd it to be undoubtedly true."

This is a marvellous recovery. And here again, if you like, is further testimony to the native vigour that comes of the vitalizing air of the Yorkshire Highlands! It is very near Lancashire, however, but all the same Yorkshire is bound to take the credit! Our walk is now over the border, and without crossing the bridge, we take the road which goes to Wray (4 miles), and in mile cross the little beck which divides the parishes of Bentham (Yorkshire) and Tatham (Lancashire), near the boundary stone. And here there is a gate on the right, which we enter, and follow the cart road which turns upwards on to high land, commanding a grand and expansive view over Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Westmoreland, and in half-a-mile we come to the prominent old Robert Hall.

In Elizabethan days this was one of the "Stately Homes of Old England," and a possession too, of one of its oldest families. It appears to have been added to, and partly rebuilt. It is now a farmstead let with some 300 acres, which up to the Spring of 1891 had been in the occupation of Mrs. Hodgson, now of Newfield House, near Ingleton, for upwards of forty years. The walls of the house are thick, but there has been some re-arrangement of the interior apartments, and the windows are also modern. Adjoining is a lofty, spacious building, now used as a barn, but which was once a private Catholic Chapel. An arched doorway on the north side led into this portion, but a wall was built up some years ago, now making it into two apartments. The chapel retains the original roof-beams, their height from the floor being about 50 feet. There is a recess, or ante-chapel, on the south side, 14 feet wide, containing a walled-up window, 5 feet wide and 10 feet high, once, it is said, filled with fine old decorated glass. In a corner, but now hidden from view by the above added wall, is a carved stone with arms and inscription 1627, and on another stone outside there are the initials. and date E C. 1677. These, no doubt, stand for members of the ancient family of Cantafield, of Cantsfield, in the parish of Tunstall. By the marriage of Mary, 2nd daughter, and eventually sole heiress, of Sir John. Cantsfield, with Sir William Gerard, Bart., Robert Hall has since remained a possession of the Gerard family. Sir William Gerard died in 1721, and the Hall and estate are now the property of the 15th Baronet of this descent.

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It is traditionally stated that Catherine Parr, the last and surviving wife of King Henry VIII., was a frequent visitor at this old mansion. This is very probable, as her kinsfolk lived in the neighbourhood.

* Vide "Yorkshire County Magazine," Part IX., p. 300.

Sir John Neville, Baron Latimer, a member of the noble house of Neville, of Raby, Hornby Castle, &c., was Catherine's first husband. He was a staunch Catholic, and was one of those who rose against the downthrow of the monasteries in 1536. Hornby Castle is at no great distance, and neither is Kendal Castle, the old seat of Sir Thomas Parr, where Catherine, his daughter, was born.

From Robert Hall it is a pleasant, open walk of about 2 miles to Wennington. In coming from Wennington it is best to ascend the road behind the station up into Tatham, which winds somewhat to the left, and in 1 miles there is a divergence to the right. Here there is a white 14 gate which opens on to the gorse-flowered moor, and by going through here mile to where the road bends, there is a rough cart track on the left, which leads in a few hundred yards to Robert Hall, whence the descent can be made to Bentham, as described. This is an out worth taking, if only for the enjoyment of the sweet upland air and glorious views. Ingleborough, Whernside, Greygarth, and the passes to Dent and Chapel-le-Dale are well seen to the north, while the Westmoreland mountains are ranged beyond. Hornby Castle, the stately seat of Colonel Foster, High Sheriff of Lancashire, stands out prominently upon an eminence on the further side of the valley. The sea, however, is concealed by a curvature of the hills.

About Waterscale Wood, on the Wenning, 13 miles east of Bentham, the scenery is very lovely too. There is here a curious sandstone cave. It has a spacious entrance, about 20 feet above the river, and goes straight in some ten or twelve yards, and then turns to the left for about five yards, when it divides; one branch going twenty, and the other about ten yards, opening into a chamber ten feet high and about twelve square. The total length of the cave from the mouth is 160 feet. It appears at one time to have been part of a quarry, but vegetation has healed up all signs of excavation, and as the cave is ample and dry it may be explored with a light without risk or difficulty.

It is interesting to note that in the Poll Tax returns for A.D. 1379, there is included under Bentham a Johannes de Waterscale & vr, from which it is evident there has been a dwelling-house at Waterscale for at least five centuries.