stone base of three tiers with a fragment of the pillar, about two feet square, upon it. Just above is a narrow stone bridge of high antiquity, which has been superseded by the erection of the wider and more substantial county bridge a little lower down. It seems always to have been known by the name of Broken Bridge, but happily for the peace of antiquaries there is no reason to suppose that it has ever in any way been identified with the name of the place, as appears to have been the case with one so-called at Pontefract. Clapham has always been a home, (and a dear one, too!) and has never been known by any other name.

The old Manor House, just mentioned, fell into disrepair many years ago, and a portion of it was, for some time, used as a stable and lumber-room. Over its main entrance is carved C W I, 1701, and upon the key-stone of its spacious fire-place are the initials and date, I C 1701. On each side of this open chimney-piece, which has a span of 11 feet, is a curious. antique stone-oven. About two years ago (1890) the house was admirably restored by Mr. Farrer, of Ingleborough Hall, and is now fitted-up as a reading and recreation room, in which there is suitable provision for games. There are also meeting and class rooms, a savings bank, and village library attached. The reading-room with library was started in 1857, with 100 volumes from the old parish library. It is maintained by subscription, and its store of books has been largely augmented, numbering now nearly 2000 volumes.

Among the families connected with Clapham I cannot omit a mention of that of Faraday, whose name first appears among the baptisms in the church registers for 1708. In this year is recorded the baptism of a child of Richard Faraday, a stonemason of Keasden, near Clapham. A son of the same Richard Faraday was married in 1756 to Elizabeth Dean, of Clapham Wood Hall, and James Faraday, of this family, who worked as a blacksmith at Clapham, was father of the celebrated Sir Michael Faraday, LL.D., F.R.S., &c., born at Newington, in Surrey, in 1791, whither his father had removed shortly after his marriage. As a prince among British scientists, Professor Faraday well earned the approbation and benefactions of his countrymen. His labours and discoveries were likewise rewarded with many honours from abroad. Thrice he received the degree of Doctor; Oxford making him a D.C.L., Prague a Ph.D., and Cambridge an LL.D.; besides which he was instituted a Chevalier of the Prussian Order of Merit, a Commander of the Legion of Honour, and a Knight Commander of the Order of St. Maurice and St. Lazarus. Among the medals which he received were each of those at the disposal of the Royal Society,-indeed, the Copley medal was given him twice, and the Grande Medaille d'Honneur at the time of the French Exhibition. Altogether it appears he was decorated with ninety-five titles and marks of merit, including the blue ribbon of

science, for in 1844 he was chosen one of the eight foreign associates of the French Academy. His scientific researches are very numerous. The Royal Society Catalogue gives under the name of Faraday a list of 158 papers, published in various scientific magazines or learned transactions. This list includes the 30 series of his "Experimental Researches in Electricity." Thus we see this son of the Clapham blacksmith risen to dignity and honour, alike creditable to his genius and industry, and adding, moreover, an imperishable lustre not only to this retired Yorkshire village whence his family sprung, but to the great land of his birth!

"Ingleborough," the present manor house at Clapham, was erected by the Farrers about a century ago. It is a good, spacious building of stone, with a handsome arcaded portico of the Corinthian order, and stands in private grounds of about forty acres in extent. There is a long, irregular and picturesque lake, covering about eight acres, beautifully environed with wood, and artificially formed out of a deep ravine on the east side of the giant Ingleborough. The hall is now lighted with electricity, the supplying dynamo being obtained from a water-wheel fixed in the cascades in the grounds.

Among the smaller class of waterfalls nothing can exceed the beauty of this series of cascades, when a sufficient body of water is precipitated down the rocky bed. But in flood the increased volume transforms them into a scene of magnificence almost beyond credence. In the grounds above, the torrent leaps in a double fall of 20 feet each into a confined circular pool, and then firing its mimic artillery, so to speak, under the picturesque ivy-clad arch, falls with a loud roar some eight or ten yards further into the stream below. From top to bottom I have seen it at such times a mass of amber-coloured foam, with not a stone in the bed visible, the foam-crested rocks causing the spray to rise to the beautifully draped archway, filling it with a fleecy veil on which the sun shining has reflected a myriad sparkling hues. It is unfortunate that no very complete view of it can be obtained from the public road, but the best is that from the walls of the churchyard or through an opening in the trees on the road opposite.

In the old coaching times Clapham was daily (Sundays excepted) the scene of much bustle and activity, for the Union coach from Kendal arrived in the village every morning, and at half-past ten was timed to leave the New Inn for Leeds and London. The Mail from Lancaster also arrived about ten a.m. and returned at five in the evening.

Concluding this account of Clapham, I must now turn to the natural marvels of the neighbourhood.

See Dr. Gladstone's Life of Faraday.

CHAPTER XI.

INGLEBOROUGH CAVE AND GAPING GILL.

Clapdale Castle -The Ingleborough Cave-Its discovery and history-Description of the interior-Age of the stalactites-Floods in the cave-Extent of the Excavations-Measurements-Clapdale Pass and Cave-Trow Gill-An extinct waterfall-Gaping Gill-Flood scene-] e-Descent of the Gill-A wild prospectAscent of Ingleborough.

IRST let us take a stroll to the famous Ingleborough Cave,one of the greatest natural curiosities that our country can boast,-by way of old Clapdale Castle, previously mentioned. Application to visit the cave should be made to Harrison, the guide, who lives near the New Inn, as he is not in attendance at the cave (1 miles distant) except on Bank holidays. At the top of the village is one of the private entrances to Ingleborough Hall, by which there is also a delightful route to the cave, and the guide has permission to conduct visitors this way. But those who desire to visit. the grounds only should apply for permission at the steward's house close by. As much damage has been done, this restriction has been found necessary, and it is hoped that all having the privilege of visiting this beautiful demesne will help to preserve what is intended for their own enjoyment and that of others.

If our route is not through the grounds, or if we are going past the cave to Trow Gill and Gaping Gill for the ascent of Ingleborough, &c., we turn from the above entrance gate to the left, and then very soon to the right up a long, winding lane, which leads in about a mile through the farm-yard of old Clapdale Hall, or as Dodsworth the seventeenth century antiquary somewhat pompously describes it, "A great old castle joyning on Clapham, the antient demesne of the family of Clapham, who have lived here in good reputation till our fathers' days." It is, however, nothing more than a small fortified house, formerly roofed with lead, having walls in some parts six to eight feet thick, raised on a foundation of natural rock, which is curiously exposed in several places. As already stated it is supposed to date from the beginning of the twelfth century, and to have been built by one of the De Staveleys, from whom Roger de Mowbray purchased it, and afterwards (temp. Henry II.)

granted it, with the manor, to William de Clapham. I am told there is an artificial passage extending from the east end of the house a considerable distance underground. It is said to have been explored for several hundred yards, but whither it terminates is not known. The house is now in an indifferent state of repair, and from the time of Arthur Ingleby has been occupied as a farm dwelling. I may remark, in addition to such particulars as I have given of this family, that in the time of the Commonwealth, and prior to his removal to Lawkland, the hall was occupied by Columbus Ingleby, who was buried at Clapham Church, May 15th, 1716. In the Depositions from York Castle it is recorded of this young squire: "On 4th August, 1662, an inquest on Brian Redman, of Ingleton. On August 2nd, Columbus Ingleby, of Lawkland Hall, gent., shot him with a pistol. Mr. Ingleby was tried and acquitted, 1667-68." But the circumstances of this accusation do not transpire.

Leaving the "castle" a path descends to the mouth of the cave. It forms an open archway 56 feet wide, 15 feet high, at the foot of an umbrageous cliff, and from its secluded position has a not unromantic appearance. The mouth narrows for about twelve yards, where a wellweathered strong iron grating and gate prevent further progress without the "open-sesame" key of the guide. The first portion of the cave extends for nearly 60 yards, is 18 yards wide, and 3 yards in height. This is denominated the Old Cave, and has been known from the earliest times, but its bright crystalline ornaments have long ago disappeared. Nothing was known of the extensive ramifications beyond until 1837, (or about the same time that the Victoria Cave, near Settle, was discovered) when a thick barrier or curtain of stalagmite was removed, and the stream of water which had been observed to flow along one of its sides, and gave indications of a continuation of the cave, was diverted, and a deep pool of water behind drained off. The galleries were then explored. large chambers adorned with sparry wonders,-the growth of centuries,revealed excavations made, grottoes opened out, fissures, gulfs, and pools traversed at no little personal peril, until a distance of nearly one thousand yards was rendered accessible. The actual penetrable length of the cavern, however, is about 700 yards. Over this length a path has been laid and other conveniences constructed for the easy and safe passage of visitors. The original work of exploration was carried on by the brothers Mr. James and Mr. Matthew Farrer, along with Lord Encombe, afterwards Lord Eldon, who was on a visit to Ingleborough Hall at the time.

The stream which flows through the cave and issues from the rock beside the main entrance is unmistakably the same as that which falls into Gaping Gill Hole on the east side of Ingleborough. But the

stream does not pursue throughout its course the same direction as it once did, for there is evidence of changes both gradual and sudden, and of an alteration in level.* Along the walls of the cave there is in places a sort of dado or fringe of tufa running with marked regularity for longer or shorter distances, and a certain indication of an ancient and higher water level. Also shelves of glistening stalagmite project from the same points, upon which rest the pebbly debris of a previous water-course. Floods must formerly have ravaged the cave along channels that have for ages been deserted, and thus prevented the accumulation of calcareous deposit in places where it is now forming. In recent times boulders many tons in weight have been carried down into the bed of the cave by the force of extraordinary floods, and many of these stones at different times have been removed and broken up for repairing the pathways. At a certain distance in, the temperature of the cave is never found to vary, whatever may be the intensity of the heat or cold outside. It has been tested well at all seasons, and found to maintain a uniform temperature of 48°.

From the mouth, the cavern stretches first to the north, then north-west, then north and north-east, and finally to the east. Through most of the route the elevations are such as to admit of persons walking erect; in one or two places, however, the height is reduced to about four or five feet and necessitates stooping. Admirable and commendable care has been taken of the natural decorations within the cavern, and these include an innumerable variety of curious and exquisite transparencies, some having the appearance of half-finished statuary or of wrought marble or ivory, and bearing more or less resemblance to familiar objects. The first great chamber we come upon in the new cave is the "Vestibule," or " Eldon Hall," so called in honour of its first explorer, Lord Eldon, mentioned above. Hence the rich and fairy-like "Stalactite Gallery" is entered, and in this the stalactites and encrustations display a rare and remarkable array of beautiful and fantastic designs. Some of these have been named from their supposed likeness to different objects. Such are the Turkey's Head, Jew's Ear, Fleece, Glacier, Beehive, Belfry,

"There is a generally received opinion," says Mr. Tiddeman, in the Memoirs of the Geological Survey. "that the stream which enters at Gaping Gill is the same as that which has an exit beneath and sometimes through the Ingleborough Cave. The ground for determining this is narrowed by the North Craven Fault which crosses to the S.E. near the head of Clapham Tarn. This forms a barrier of Silurian rocks crossing the valley, and all springs from the drainage of the valley above must come out at this (it being impervious to water) if they do not come out before. No springs of sufficient size to dispose of the water which falls into Gaping Gill come out at this barrier or above it, if we except the stream coming out under the cave, and the volume of this in a general way varies with the quantity of water poured into Gaping Gill."