ear, and with the full power to record what impresses the mind in such a country. JOURNAL, continued. D. W. Feb. 27th. Left Jaffa yesterday about 3 o'clock, our luggage being tied on the backs of one mule and four donkeys; besides this, we had one horse and two mules, and a janizary armed on horseback. We sallied forth through the city gate, and were soon in an open country, with meadows and sand hills. Found the heat of the sun severe upon my head. Towards nightfall we got to Ramla, i. e. ancient Arimathea; were received at the American convent; a vaulted chamber was allotted to us. Here milk and honey of the finest quality were brought us, which, with eggs and dried fish, made a good supper. Up this morning at 4 o'clock; called the muleteers and janizary; hastened preparations, and about six started. We travelled some hours through wide wastes, patches of cultivation and villages, till we reached the defiles of the hills of Judea, where the close valleys we entered to ascend the highlands were most beautiful, though savage and wild. We were, however, armed; so that the chance of interruption was greatly diminished. In this way we proceeded up hill and down dale, through places verifying the expression in Scripture of a land that was a splendid possession and an inheritance. After stopping at a well, we descended through valleys, when, to our surprise, we had to ascend again to a height, which, on reaching, was a kind of table-land, from which we yet saw nothing; and it was not till after we had travelled a minute or two that, on turning a corner, we saw-and, oh, what a sight! - the splendid walled city of Jerusalem. This struck me as unlike all other cities; it recalled the imaginations of Nicolas Poussin - a city not for every day, not for the present, but for all time, as if built for an eternal sabbath; the buildings, the walls, the gates, so strong, and so solid, as if made to survive all other cities. We were greatly pleased with the city gate, quite European; also with the clean and substantial look of the interior of the city. We were conducted to the Latin Convent; were received most kindly by the superior and monks, who allotted us apartments, where, for the present, we find ourselves very comfortable. Both Mr. Woodburn and myself are delighted beyond expression, that, after a journey of six months and twelve days, with many interruptions, we have at last reached the most interesting city in the world-Jerusalem. 28th. After breakfast waited upon the British consul, William T. Young, Esq. Found church service performing in his room; in the course of which the Second Lesson was remarkable in this city, giving, as it does, the form of our Lord's Prayer in the place where it was first uttered. Mr. and Mrs. Young expressed much satisfaction at seeing us; showed us from their house the site of Solomon's Temple, with the Mosque of Omar upon it. Mr. Young then offered us a house, with two rooms, a cooking-place, and room for servant; which we accepted, and shall enter to-morrow. Made drawing of Janizary. We then returned to our hosts at the Convent; were received by Brother M'Lauchlan, whom we found most intelligent and enthusiastic; were presented to the Lord Abbot, who, with the others, walked with us to the Church of the Sepulchre, which, with all the circumstances connected with it, interested me beyond measure. Found the pictures very indifferent : the details of the localities of the different stages of the crucifixion somewhat doubtful; yet, taken altogether, the identity of Mount Calvary seems undoubted, incapable of being effaced, or forgotten. Were told that last night a violent dispute took place between the Latin and Greek priests in this sacred place, and that the British consul was sent for. Found our Irish friend, Brother M'Lauchlan, had had his own share in the disturbance, and in vindicating the rights of his church. March 1st. Called with letters on Rev. Mr. Whiting; saw Mr. Beadle, who proposes going to the Dead Sea. Called on Mr. Young, who took us to the pacha, and then to the governor. Had a perfect view of the Temple of Solomon; walked round the whole of the outside of it, and also by the wall of Zion; saw the valley of Jehoshaphat, and the brook Kedron, Siloam, and the Mount of Olives. 2d. Removed from the Convent to the house Mr. Young has so obligingly provided. Unpacked colours and boards. Found two engineers at work, making a military survey of Jerusalem. Find no kind of trade or commerce: silk is not cultivated; the vine is grown only for home use, and for dried raisins; and the olive, so abundant, seems only for their own consumption. 3d. Made drawing of an arch, said to have been part of the palace of Pontius Pilate, over which took place the Ecce Homo*; walked over some of the old parts of the city-ruinous, but very magnificent. Mr. Young went with me to the Temple; went to Mount Zion; visited the Synagogue; much struck. TO THOMAS WILKIE. Jerusalem, 4th March, 1841. Having got all our luggage tied on our animals, one mule and four donkies, (it was quite miraculous to us how they got so much to stick on, or how the beasts could bear it all,) and Mr. Woodburn on one horse, our servant on another, I on a third (the largest and stoutest of the party), and our janizary, a lank lean Arab, such as Salvator Rosa used to paint, upon a fourth, and riding in advance, we sallied forth through the gates of Jaffa, all armed, and making a lengthened, varied, and most picturesque procession. We had a very agreeable ride for nearly four hours, when we arrived at Ramla, ancient Arimathea. Here we drew up, at the door of the Latin convent, and were shown into a room, while our whole party of animals were put in the court to bivouac, to our no small disturbance during the night. Next morning we awoke before four o'clock, stirred up our servant Stephano to sound the note of preparation, and to prepare from the fare of the convent something for breakfast. With hue and cry, and noise, we were all in movement by six o'clock, before sunrise, recalling to me strongly the preparations for the journey we used to make in early life, to be in time for the tide at Petticur, on our way to Edinburgh. We now, once started, proceeded with that alacrity inseparable from the consciousness that we were within a few hours' journey of Jerusalem. Onward we went; some travellers joined us in front, and we were soon overtaken by Albanians and others, all armed, who followed in a sort of line that gave the party the look of a caravan; an appearance that seemed the more desirable, as we began to ascend into the recesses of the mountains of Judea. Here the wildness of rock and hill was extreme; yet, after hours of fatigue in getting to the summit of the range, we found olive trees growing in great luxuriance. About two o'clock we entered a sort of valley, where was a natural spring of the purest water. Here men and beasts, with one consent, made a halt to enjoy the luxurious refreshment. this was not long: all was activity to push on. again descended, then mounted to the summit of what seemed an extended table-land, but still no city in view; and every turn of the rugged and stony path was only another hope deferred, without any descent to the habitation of man: when, lo! the advanced post of our party came to a stand, and, like the crusaders in Tasso, we were excited by the cheering cry of Jerusalem, Jerusalem! the Holy City is in sight! * Wilkie afterwards made a sketch on millboard of this picture sold at the sale of Sir David's effects, to Alexander Colvin, Esq. for the sum of 42l., and engraved as No. 21. of the Oriental Sketches. |