LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

DRESSES.-In no higher degree has the taste for variety and elegance been exemplified, than in the numerous articles of costume which have come under the denomination of cloak, mantle, mantelet, pelerine, cannezou, and latterly palitas-witchoura, cardinale, camail. Of this latter we have examples of modifications, in proportion to the period since its introduction, and of those which may be quoted as both becoming and fashionable we may notice one of Gros d'Afrique of the richest description, descending very low, with alternate stripes placed diagonally of white and green nuande, on the upper part a pelerine to correspond reaching to the waist; fringes were added to the small collar as well as to the opening of the sleeves, these fringes were long, flowing, with diagonal stripes of white and green, exactly imitating the pattern of the camail.

Pelerines when attached to the dress, are not so long as when worn seperately.

Sleeves are made now very generally half large.

The skirts still long; with many they reach a preposterous length, dragging the ground at every step. The Petit Courrier says, that dresses have never been so " J'amais les rues n'ont été si propre et les robes si sales."-never were streets so clean and dresses so dirty.

The prevalent taste, distinguished as it is in every department of the toilette, needs particularization, and a few instances for ensembles de toilette will better show the styles for the varied routine of life á-la-mode than entire generalities.

For the morning, the robe de chambre to be complete as regards the highest taste may be composed of Mousseline de Laine, one of the new cashmere patterns lined with plain slight silk of a striking colour; it is made high and loose, but the corsage turned over in the shawl form, and crossing at the ceinture, where the robe is confined by a filet de soie scarf of the color of the lining, The sleeves are of the Mameluke form, very wide, and sufficiently short to show the under-sleeve of Scotch cambric disposed in two or three rows of flat bouillons, The corsage of the cambric dress is made quite up to the throat and full, with a falling collar trimmed with three cambric frills, two rows are small plaited, the third is disposed in hollow plaits. A single deep flounce arranged in hollow plaits borders the skirt.

The out-door toilet of an élégante for the early morning promenade offers nothing remarkable at the watering places; it is in the afternoon promenade, morning visits, and soirees that her taste displays itself. The robe for the first should be of Italian taffetas, or shaded poult de soie; the colours must be light, lilac and rose, or citron and white. Corsage, a threequarter height, descending in a small rounded point, and ornamented with six folds descending from the shoulder in the fan style, that is to say, diminishing in size as they approach the bottom of the corsage. Tight sleeves with mancherons formed of crossed folds. The corsage descending in the demi V form in front, so as to display a chemisette of India muslin opening on the bosom, with a falling collar trimmed with rich lace. A tablier composed of several rows of fulness drawn by casings is let in to the front of the skirt, and ornamented with an échelle of Brandenburgs, terminated at each point by a small chou of riband of a corresponding colour. These ornaments diminish *progressively in size as they approach the bottom of the dress, which I should observe is bordered only by a very deep hem. This melange of ribbon and passementerie is exceedingly novel, and has a very light and pretty effect. A camail of rich black lace with a falling collar, the round trimmed with broad black lace, is frequently seen with one of these dresses, but an embroidered muslin scarf may be adopted instead, or a camail of organdy embroidered and lined with muslin gauze. The chapeau

may be either of crape, paille de riz, or tulle bouillonne; of the first, it should be white trimmed with shaded feathers, or azure blue ornamented with white follettes. The most novel ornament for the second is a wreath of small wild roses intermixed with tufts of moss, which traverses the chapeau, crowning the centre where it is pretty full, and diminishing gradually as it descends to the brides. The chapeaux and capotes of tulle bouillonne are decorated either with flowers or marabouts.

The evening robe may be composed either of organdy or tarlatane, the latter is preferred; those made with double and even triple skirts have lost nothing of their vogue. Some are trimmed with flowers, others with ruches of gauze ribbon; this last kind of trimming has been recently introduced, but it is not so generally adopted as flowers. Another style of evening robe, composed either of organdy or tarlatane, has the skirt disposed in four or five deep tucks, the upper one reaching to within about a quarter of a yard to the waist, so that in fact the skirt is nearly covered with tucks; they are generally surmounted with embroidery, either in white or colors. The sleeves are always short, and the corsage low; the latter is either draped à la Grecque, or made with a deep lappel which forms a flat mantilla. The hair is adorned in a very simple style with flowers, or else a cap is adopted, for turbans, dress. hats, &c., are for the moment laid aside. The bonnet à la Jardiniere is much in favor; it is a small, round shape, composed either of blondeValenciennes, or gauffered tulle, very short at the ears, arranged en papillon at the sides and trimmed profusely, indeed too profusely with flowers; they are always of a delicate kind, both in form and color, but the cap would be much prettier were it less loaded.

MATERIALS AND COLORS.-Among the very beautiful and new patterns in most of the varieties of fabric which have been recently introduced for fashionable wear, the worked or embroidered organdies do not claim the least distinguished place, the diaphane muslins, the bareges and the foulards have been also amazingly improved. Many peignoirs and tunic dresses are seen in lilac, blue rose, white &c.; the embroidery of white over the former colours is greatly admired. This species is extended considerably over the hem in some instances, and obtains thus a very rich effect.

A new material is spoken of for the chaussure-gaiters as well as boots are composed of it. It is called pedicrine, and is light, supple and glossy.

HATS, CAPS, &c.-The cap has, in consequence probably of the excellent taste displayed in some of the latest styles, become quite a prevailing article of costume, though previously to a great extent discarded. There has been a considerable improvement latterly in this respect, as the numerous varieties testify.

None is more fashionable and distinguished than the very elegant little cap, called the Bonnet a la Paysanne; it is frequently made of jaconet muslin ; this is embroidered and has brides of the same also embroidered with a nœud of ribbon on one side this coiffure is completed. The bonnet à l'enfant, drawn with colored ribbons and in organdy is also much admired.

VARIETIES. The introduction of lace falls has given a great impetus to the taste and ingenuity of one branch of industry, and most beautifully does this style adapt itself to the present style of costume. It is a style no less suited for one part of the year than another. The mounting of former falls, should they be prized for their beauty and rarity, may be made available for the lace, which is introduced in the greatest variety of patterns. The old middle-age designs, the more tight and fanciful of a recenter date, and the Arabesque are all seen in these beautiful and tasteful additions to the toilette.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE 1.

FIGURE 1.-Walking dress.-Organdi dress. Made throughout the corsage close-fitting and high in the neck, with parallel bands and en crêves; the sleeve which is close without being tight terminates near the wrist. The skirt is made full, ornamented in a corresponding manner but considerably enlarged. The Bonnet of rice straw having one bouquet made in the form of a garland, with an assortment similarly disposed in the interior of the brim.

FIGURE 2-Promenade dress.-Satin redingote; the upper part in drapes placed diagonally, divided in the centre by an upright piece; the rest of the corsage to the ceinture, which is en pointe, fitting closely. The sleeves are plain and fitted to the arm, with the exception of the upper ornament, round which are added a silken cord tied in a nœud.

The bonnet is in crape with ornament of the same; one is particularly distinguished as entending round the border and reaching rather beyond its limits, to the extent of a couple of inches. A drooping feather is added which hangs very low on one side.

FIGURE 3.-Out-door dress.-A satin redingote made high at the shoulders cut down at the centre of the front part of the upper portion, with a narrow bordering of blond. This corsage is elegantly embroidered; the sleeves are made tight to the arm its whole length, with a small ornament in the epaulette style at the extreme end at top. The skirt is ornamented with most elegant embroidery.

The bonnet of moire has embellishments of the same material with a couple of drooping feathers.

FIGURE 4.-Carriage dress.-Indian muslin dress with the addition of the camail already alluded to. The corsage is made demi-montant and peaked, the dress laid in gathers close to it; the top is bordered with a scolloped edging; the sleeves are made to fit the arms, but have the addition of an ornament bouillonné, the skirt is very full. Satin and lace used alternately compose the very elegant addition to the toilette. The bonnet is in Levantine, one side will be perceived to be inclined inwards and the other to have a contrary tendency. A long and beatifully curled feather embellishes it.

The First Half Figure is composed of a somewhat plain dress with a berthe of lace; short sleeves and sabots.

The Second Half Figure is made closely to the waist, with a little fichu of the same.

The turbans a l'Indienne back and front view.

Bonnets in Gros d'Afrique and moire, with bouquet and ribbon ornaments. The cap in tulle and nouds, with narrow lace borders.

PLATE 2.

FIGURE 1.-Gros de Tour dress.-The upper part ornamented with a pelerine of the same; the corsage is made demi-montant and peaked; the sleeves tight with a boullion ornament just below the elbow, and terminating in a band of the same material. The pelerine is ruched and has in addition a rouleau border; the skirt is ornamented with a wide ruche, disposed in two rows from the ceinture downwards, turning up before reaching the termination; rosettes are also interspersed at that portion of the skirt where the ornament forms a bend upwards. A satin capote is ornamented with bouquets on the brim and in the interior.

FIGURE 2.-Walking dress.-The corsage is made high with a lace frilling round the neck, it fits closely and terminates in a straight line; a piece is gathered from the shoulders towards the ceinture in the draped style, assuming quite the appearance of a point at the termination. The sleeves are full, graduating to the wrist, were they are frilled and the upper part is laid in honeycomb ornaments; the skirt has three series of tucks, composed

of three tucks, each at regular intervals, the lower reaching the termination, the top one more than half way to the ceinture. The capote plainly made, a few bands of the same being all that are added, with the exception of a couple of small bouquets in the interior; the curtain is full and is made rather square.

FIGURE 3.-Promenade dress.-Satin dress.-Velvet spencer. The latter made low, cut sloping inwards at the front, and with a corresponding peak in the lower part; the sleeves are made to fit accurately the arm. This dress is distinguished by simplicity and at the same time richness; the very ample dimensions of the skirt, with its bold broad folds, gives that elegant effect which is capable of striking the eye, without the intervention of ornament. A lace mantelet is thrown over the dress which still more im

proves the ensemble. A tulle capote with drooping feathers is

added.

FIGURE 4.-Ball dress.-Crape dress.-The upper part of the corsage which is cut low, has a wide draping extending nearly half way to the ceinture; a rosette is placed in the centre of the upper part; short sleeves made tight and bordered with narrow lace; the skirt is made with double jupons, both the upper and lower one being elegantly ornamented with rich embroidery. The hair is slightly embellished with bouquets, which droop from the back part of the head.

A turban and tocque are distinguished by a closeness and compactness of style, which would be found very much to become some countenances; the first has chenille fringes, the other is elegantly embroidered. The capotes show considerable novelty, though several in the upper row and the first in the lower one, are considerably altered in the brim; batiste, tulle and satin compose the material; the same fabric as the dress is employed principally to ornament them, with the addition of marabouts and lace decorations.

Caps of tulle with lace embellishments, rosettes and fringe

ornaments.

PLATE 3.

FIGURE 1-Promenade dress.-Satin dress. High corsage and en pointe, a fall ornaments the upper portion; the sleeves are tight to the wrist, with a frilling at the end; the dress is made plain, as to the skirt. The bonnet ornamented with a bouquet. A very elegant mantelet of black lace, with a series of frillings beautifully embroidered, completed this toilette.

FIGURE 2.-Ball dress. The corsage nearly demi-montant, cut in a sloping direction in front; a fall of the same material proceeds from the shoulder to the ceinture, terminating in a peak; sleeves short, with edgings lying close to the arm; the skirt is ornamented in the tunic style, with a lace frilling, having the addition also of bouquets. The hair is worn plain.

FIGURE 3.-Ball dress.-Tulle dress. The corsage au caulisses, fitted to the body, and straight at the ceinture; sleeves very short, with rosettes; the skirt without the addition of ornaments, except that which figures the tablier, and composed of bouillons and rosettes, alternated.

PLATE 4.

FIGURE 1.-Walking dress.-A Poult de soie dress. The corsage which is made high and close fitting, has a number of narrow trimmings placed across in parallel lines. The skirt is made full, with volans extending from a little way below the waist to the entire length, each volan edged with a narrow scolloped border.

FIGURE 2-Evening dress.-Tulle dress. The corsage close fitting and round at the ceinture. An embroidered berthe of the same material, as the dress falls rather low; the sleeve is close and short with a scolloped edging. The skirt full and decorated with a deep ornamental embroidery, additionally embellished wth colored ribbon and a rosette.