Imatges de pàgina
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plainness than elaborate design. The porticoes, owing to their moderate elevation, with only an unadorned parapet over them, present nothing to excite the admiration of a stranger; yet the appearance of the square is sufficiently imposing, and would become much more so were it not obstructed by several ranges of low wooden tenements immediately in front of the Cathedral, and extending half way across the place, much diminishing the good effect of the whole. The daily market for fruit, vegetables, and small wares of all descriptions being held here, these excrescences are tenanted by retail dealers, and the rent of them giving a considerable revenue to the municipal funds, it is not probable they will be transferred to another spot, although there are situations that would be quite as suitable for them. Besides the principal square there are several others, each with its central basin constantly supplied with water, but none presenting any thing calling for particular notice. There are, in all, twentyfour churches, some of them good and massive buildings, internally much adorned, though not distinguished by superior specimens of the fine arts: they possess no paintings of the old masters, who were, and are, most worthily the pride of Spain. Considering the former wealth of this country, and the means it had of acquiring some of these productions, it seems rather surprising that they were not sought for to decorate the temples of divine worship. The private houses are substantially constructed, but, to guard against the repetition of former disasters, they are kept low, none being of more than one story. Some are very spacious, having two or more quadrangular courts in the interior, around which runs a corridor, affording shade and protection from rain in the wet season, and from the sun at all times; besides which, many of them have gardens for the cultivation of flowers and fruit-trees, though rarely well attended to. On each side of the courts are distributed the principal and secondary rooms, communicating with each other on the inside, forming altogether commodious dwellings, well ventilated and adapted to the climate. The first-rate houses occupy a greater extent of ground than those of a similar class in the cities of Europe; but the plan and distribution in all, being peculiarly Spanish, does not furnish many conveniences, nor afford much opportunity for the

display of European elegance. The mildness of the climate makes contrivances for the diffusion of artificial heat in the apartments unnecessary; fire-places and chimneys are unknown; but doors and windows being lamentably ill adjusted, an improvement in them, to repel a current of air occasionally, is quite desirable. Every division of the city is profusely supplied with excellent water, which, for reasons before assigned, is brought from a distance of some leagues by two aqueducts; one on the southeast, of good construction, passing for several hundred yards over a range of lofty arches; the other, on the southwest, bringing from two distinct ranges of hills copious streams of water, by which convenience, cleanliness, and healthiness are well consulted; indeed, there are few large towns wherein these important particulars have been better attended to. All the streets are paved, many of the leading thoroughfares having a broad path of flag-stones on each side for foot passengers. Among the public buildings may be enumerated the University of San Carlos, the Tridentine College, the Hospital of San Juan de Dios, having contiguous to it the general cemetery (interment in the churches or within the precincts of the city being prohibited), four public lavaderos or washing-places, a circus wherein bullfights and equitations are occasionally exhibited: at a short distance on the southward is a public slaughter-house, where all cattle for the general supply must be killed. A respectable theatre has not yet been erected, neither have walks or places for public recreation been appropriately laid out. Dramatic performances are sometimes given, but in places destitute of the requisites for such representations; consequently, this species of amusement does not find the encouragement it is entitled to, and would have under proper management, among a people. fond of attending shows and processions. The population of the city and suburbs can not be estimated at more than 40,000; probably it is rather below this number."*

Dunlop mentions that there is a college in Guatemala, that of San Carlos, which attained some celebrity under the crown, but which, he affirms, "is not equal to

*Baily's "Central America," p. 33.

a second-rate school in Europe." The president for life, Carrera, has just completed a fort commanding the town, which mounts a few pieces of cannon, and is called "El Castillo." It is, however, itself commanded by surrounding eminences, and could only have been designed to keep the city in awe. A fine cemetery has been established near the town, in which there is a piece of ground for the burial of strangers, or persons not of the established religion. There is also a hospital, that of San Juan de Dios, which can receive 200 patients. In the year 1853 not less than 4064 persons were received, of which 3613 were discharged cured, and 421 died. The cost of the establishment for this year was $19,352.

Old or Antigua Guatemala, 30 miles to the westward of the capital, is still a place of considerable importance. Previous to its abandonment, in 1776, it was a magnificent town, second only to Mexico among the cities of Spanish America. It stands in the centre of the valley or plain which lies between the volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, having, according to the Spanish saying, "Paradise on one hand, and Hell on the other." The beauty of its position, the richness of the adjacent country, and the grandeur of its surrounding scenery, have elicited the highest expressions of admiration from travelers. Mr. Stephens describes it as standing in a delightful valley, shut in by mountains and hills that always retain their verdure, watered by two rivers that supply numerous fountains, with a climate in which neither heat nor cold predominates, and altogether surrounded by more natural beauty than any location he had ever seen in the whole course of his travels. Crossing one of the streams which flows past the city, bearing the poetical name of El Rio Pensativo, he entered the city. "On each side were the ruins of churches, convents, and pri

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