The picture, however, was suspended in so bad and even dark a situation, that its merits may be said to be altogether lost.

The following morning promising a fine day, I determined on an excursion over Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs. Proceeding over the hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake called Llyn y Gader; then, turning to the left, commenced the ascent. Presently the pool Llyn y Cae showed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs overhang the water. After great labour for three or four hours, and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description of the grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract from which leaves nothing to be desired:-' We were now above all the eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop.'

At the foot of the mountain is the romantic little village of Tal y Llyn, which borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly denominated by the people the Charming

Retreat.' The church-a simple antique building-is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends about eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake-stirred by the winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn-wore a highly picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took incessant delight in exploring a number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this interesting district. Tal y Llyn is assuredly one of the most beautiful of lakes, and deserves all the eulogy bestowed upon it by the popular voice. It extends two miles in length and one in breadth; part of its boundary consists of highly cultivated pastures, rendered more picturesque from the circumstance of the higher land, which extends half way up the mountain, affording a noble sheep walk. This lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, a gentleman to whose courtesy and good nature strangers, no less than friends, are indebted for the amusement of a day's angling at pleasure, and if they prefer a sail, there is a boat at hand for their accommodation. Few waters furnish a better supply of trout and eels-the latter considered a great delicacy, owing to the peculiar nutriment they find in the deep coating moss of the bottoms. Here are both the lake and the common river-trout, the last of which come with the streams springing from the mountains. They are chiefly taken with the fly, and vary in size from one half to two pounds each.

A walk of about seven miles, through highly picturesque and delightful scenery, conducts the tourist to the ancient town of Machynlleth, situated on the road leading to Aberystwith, and near the confluence of the rivers Dulas and Dovey. It is the centre of the woollen manufacture, and does considerable business in tanning, occupations singularly at variance with its former military reputation. It was once the Maglona of the Romans, and had a lieutenant stationed to awe the mountaineers. About two miles distant, near Penalt, is a spot denominated Cefn Caer, where many Roman coins have been found, and the traces are still visible of an old circular fortification.

The spacious entrance to the Senate-house, now degraded into a stable, denotes a more honourable occupancy in past times. It was here the active Glendower, summoning the nobles and gentry, advanced his title to the newly conquered Principality. Among these came Sir David Gam, who, though related to the heroic chief, conceived the base design of assassinating him in a private conference. He was discovered, and would have been instantly put to death, but for the intercession of powerful friends. He escaped on condition of joining the Welsh cause; but the double traitor again turning against his magnanimous countryman, Owen kept him in close confinement at Machynlleth, and burnt his house to the ground. On his escape he took refuge in the English Court, attended Henry V. in his wars, and, on the eve of the battle of Agincourt, on returning form reconnoitring the enemy, he informed the King, that 'there were enough to kill, enough to be made prisoners, and enough to run away.'

The Town-hall is a plain, convenient building, erected by the late Sir W. W. Wynn, in which courts leet are held twice in the year. Few Welsh towns have kept pace with the spirit of modern improvement more than Machynlleth, of which the new road to Towyn, which offers many beautiful and picturesque views, is not the least proof. The portion between Penal and Aberdovey, in particular, cut out of the solid rock, abounds in delightful prospects of the Cardigan coasts, and of the sea stretching far beyond.

Leaving Machynlleth, I pursued the road leading to Llanidloes for about six miles, passing a hill called Fadin, and then turning to the right over dreary moors, came to a large sheet of water, known by the name of Glas Llyn-the blue lake. It was my intention to walk over the wastes as far as the mountain of Plinlimmon, in order to explore the source of the river Wye;* but the weather

* It is my intention, in a future part of this work, to give a description of the varied and exquisite scenery of the river Wye. Comprehending many renowned works of art, which give additional interest to sublime and interesting views, the coldest observer cannot fail being delighted with this romantic stream, here quietly gliding between luxuriant foliage— there fantastically meandering over its rocky bed.

becoming tempestuous, and being unacquainted with the localities, I judged it more prudent to postpone my excursion until a more suitable opportunity occurred, and proceed to Dinas Mowddy, rather than run the chance of remaining in a bog during the night.

Dinas Mowddy is an insignificant town, picturesquely situated on the declivity of a rock, not far from the river Cerrist at its conflux with the Dovey. It has only one long street, and the houses are low and meanly built. One of its chief buildings is the Plas,' or mansion,—or, in other words, the manor-house of the lordship,— which, I was told, belonged from an early period to the Myttons of Halston, but had been more recently purchased by Mr. Bird, of Birmingham. The approach to Dinas Mowddy, from Mallwyd, is rendered more striking by the sudden appearance of the town at the junction of three valleys, each of which is enclosed by majestic hills. Its great charm, indeed, is the novel and romantic character of the surrounding scenery.

. This large estate, the manorial rights of which extend over thirty thousand acres, was possessed for several centuries by the Mytton family. Many years ago a lead mine was worked upon the mountain called Craig Gwyn, but soon abandoned on account of water filling up the workings, which, for want of proper machinery, could not be removed. Since Mr. Bird purchased the estate, he has employed a mineral surveyor to examine the mountains, and to ascertain what they contain.* At the foot of Craig Gwyn, and extending upwards, is one of the largest slate deposits in the

*At the old mine of Craig Gywn the vein or load appeared so broad, and the quality of the lead so rich, that a party of gentlemen last year formed themselves into a company, with a capital of £20,000, to work this mine effectually. They have driven two new adits lower down the mountain to drain the water from the old workings, and cut the great vein which crops out on the top. The works are successfully progressing, and the lead on analysis is proved to contain twenty-five ounces of fine silver, and twelve cwt. of pure lead in every ton of ore. There is a company formed in London to work the slate quarries, who have also projected a railway of seventeen miles to the coast near Barmouth.