slips, adapted for stations, from which to annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles as occasion might require. But its timeworn and ivy-covered bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of time. Some years ago the Eagle tower, struck by lightning, was split down several yards from the summit, and large masses of stone came thundering down-giving it still more the aspect of a splendid ruin.

From the summit the traveller may behold a prospect of surpassing interest and beauty,—the isle of Anglesey, with its plains, farms, and villas,-the swelling Menai,-the romantic hills,-and the blue and spacious bay, with the sea stretching far beyond.

A noble terrace, extending from the quay to the north-end of the walls, offers a delightful walk, and presents a variety of interesting objects around the port, which is daily rising into greater importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of industry and commerce.

The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great improvement, and ships of considerable burthen can now come up along-side the quay. A patent slip for repairing vessels has also recently been laid down. There is an extensive trade carried on with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol, &c., besides a lucrative coast trade, exchanging the invaluable mineral substances for timber and other articles. Slates are brought here as to the general dépôt from all the great Welsh quarries; and the country people of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest market, from a considerable distance.

The market-house, erected by the corporation, the hotel by the Marquis of Anglesey, with hot and cold baths, a billiard room, and a number of excellent inns, render the modern town as elegant and commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious or luxurious nabob, to say nothing of hardy Welshmen and pedestrian ramblers,-could possibly desire.

CHAPTER XIII.

HOLYHEAD, SOUTH STACK LIGHT HOUSE, BEAUMARIS, &c.

LET us go round,

And let the sail be slack, the course be slow,

That at our leisure, as we coast along,
We may contemplate, and from every scene
Receive its influence.

Rogers.

AFTER enjoying myself a day or two at Caernarvon, I left that retreat so particularly pleasant to the tourist, and proceeded across the silvery Menai. 'Twas morning: the mist and broad shadows were fast receding before the glories of the rising sun; the mountain sheep and cattle were creeping higher on the hills; while all nature smiled around. On turning round, upon gaining an elevated station, I observed again the range of the mighty Snowdonian mountains, which, at that moment, appeared even more majestic through the white vapours which rolled around them.

Not being able to procure any satisfactory information about the tracts along the coast, which I was desirous of exploring, I walked through a bridle-road till I came to a miserable inn, where I was dissuaded, by mention of difficulties, from my purpose of taking such a route as would present numerous marine views; and proceeded to Newborough, and over the Malldreath Sands to Llanbeulan, where I entered the high road to Holyhead.

The following morning I took a view of this remarkable town and islet, accompanied by the friend I had before accidentally met in Caernarvonshire. Following the direction of the veteran Pennant to obtain the most extensive view of it, I bent my way

to the summit of the head. At every step I observed evidences of the rapid increase and prosperity of this once poor fishing village— now spreading on every side, and supporting an active and flourishing population. From the summit we had a complete view of the promontory, and could mark its varying breadth and inequalities, and its storm-indented appearance. It was approaching the hour of high water, and I could hear the lashing of the waves upon the precipices which tower sublimely above the ocean, and the scream of the sea birds sailing around the tremendous caverns open to the

waters.

Far below me lay the spacious pier on the island of Ynys Halen, with the light-house at the extremity; the harbour with its crowd of vessels and smaller craft in different stages of preparation; and close to the quay the Post Office Packet in busy preparation for immediate sail. I was struck with the singular wildness and variety of the prospect far over sea and land. The vast expanding waters the Skerry rocks-the lighthouses, and other objects of interest, opened distinctly to the view.

After having breakfasted at the Royal Hotel, where I had taken up my quarters, and accompanied by my friend, I walked to the pier, and was just in time to see a fine steamer dart boldly forward, like some ocean-bird upon its wings, on her trip across the channel. There is something almost startling in looking intently on that strange unconscious power which produces the results of living motion, with a beauty, majesty, and rapidity of action, without any approach to violence or hurry. It is at such moments that the light of modern science appears almost too dazzling to the human eye. Having occasion to make some enquiries, I addressed myself to an elderly gentleman, who was standing near me, and who replied with such frank good nature and apparent intelligence, that I was induced to make myself known to him. He proved to be the Harbour Master, Captain Evans, who obligingly offered to

* A commodious and excellent inn, where civility, and attention, and good fare are the order of the day.'

show us the light-house on the pier, and promised every facility in his power for our inspecting the public works, &c. I shall not easily forget his good nature and kindness, still less the true British hospitality and obliging attentions shown me during my stay. I cannot look back to those days without an emotion of grateful pleasure, which I feel it the bounden duty of a Wanderer,' so kindly received by one to whom he was previously unknown, to put upon record.

The

My attention was next directed to a capstan of great power, for the use of His Majesty's packets and other vessels. former have never had occasion to employ it; but many large ships, by the aid of a plentiful supply of warps, have been brought into the pier during heavy gales, evidently snatched from destruction by the prompt assistance thus rendered. On the south side of the harbour I noticed a fine graving dock admirably constructed, and one of the first in England. The bottom is convex; the drain water runs along the sides to the upper part and is pumped out by a steam engine. There was also a diving-bell vessel at work on the south pier, blasting rock under water; a most useful invention, by which all the pier wall has been erected in deep water. It is employed also in examining the chains by which the buoys along the harbour are moored, and for other equally useful purposes. The anchorage ground outside the harbour having been so much raked by use that anchors would not hold, several vessels were in consequence lost. In 1831, a very strong chain of three hundred feet in length was laid down across the entrance; so that when a vessel now casts anchor and does not hold, she drives outwards until she grapples the chain. This plan has been the means of saving a number of vessels, and none have been on shore in the harbour since it was adopted.

The two islands at the entrance are called Salt Island and

Parry's Island. The former is chiefly occupied by the General Post Office, and forms an extensive establishment for the fitting out and repairs of the mail packets. It is connected with the