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our attention, and we were absolutely enveloped in blue lightning. We had continued our discourse till towards midnight, had not the rain come down in a manner equally sudden and severe. It was one of the heaviest showers which I remember to have witnessed. The storm was directly in the centre of Paris, and over our heads. We retreated precipitately to the deserted banquetting room; and had a reinforcement of coffee. After such a series of melting hot weather, I shall not easily forget the refreshing sweetness emitted from every shrub upon the lawn. About ten o'clock, we thought of our respective homes. I went into another room to pay the reckoning; liberated King John from his second confinement, shook hands very heartily with my guests, and returned to my lodgings by no means out of humour or out of heart with the day's entertainment. Whether they have been more rational, or more economical, in the celebration of the same festival, AT HOME, is a point, which I have some curiosity, but no right to discuss. Certainly they could not have been happier.'

The length to which we have already extended this article, warns us to withdraw our hand from the seductive details connected with the arts, which nearly fill the remaining portion of the second volume. The collections of the Baron Denon, Mr. Quintin Craufurd, and the Marquis de Sommariva, are well described; and there is some interesting, though not very profound information respecting the artists and engravers of Paris, which might tempt us to citation, were it not that another volume still lies before us, and that, well as we have been entertained by Mr. Dibdin during our travels with him in France, we must not forget that we have still to accompany him into Germany.

On the 11th of July 1818, Mr. D. quitted Paris, and after a halt of two days at the agreeable and well built town of Nancy, reached Strasbourg. In this interesting city once resided the illustrious John Geyler, who, previously to the more brilliant successes of Luther, opposed the immoralities and the selfishness of the Romish clergy. The pulpit from which he was accustomed to address the people is still preserved. The western front of the cathedral is, probably, the finest existing specimen of the rich and fantastic grandeur of Gothic architecture. It rises from the pavement of the nave to the stupendous elevation of 500 feet, and presents an unequalled combination of lightness and firmness. After having reached a platform at the height of about 300 feet, Mr. D. paused to contemplate the objects by which he was surrounded below were the houses of Strasbourg, shrunk to · rabbit-hutches;' beyond these the Rhine; and, in the distance, the chain of the Vosges.

It remained to ascend the opposite tower. At each of the four corners there is a spiral staircase, of which the exterior is open work, consisting of slender but lofty pillars, so that the ascending figure is seen at every convolution. It has a fearful appearance to the adventurer; but there is scarcely the possibility of danger. You go round

and round, and observe three distinct terminations of the central work within, forming three roofs, of which the third is eminently beautiful. I could not help expressing my astonishment at some of the exterior columns, which could not be much less than threescore feet in height, and scarcely ten inches in diameter! Having gained the top of one of these corner spiral staircases, I breathed and looked around me. A new feature presented itself to my view. About one hundred feet beneath, was the body of this huge cathedral. Immediately above rose the beautifully tapering and curiously ornamented SPIRE, to the height of probably one hundred and twenty-five feet! It seemed, indeed, as if both tower and spire were direct ladders to the sky. The immortal artist who constructed them, and who lived to witness the completion of his structure, was JOHN HULTZ, a native of Cologne. The date of their completion is 1449.'

The organ, built, about a century since, by Silbermann, contains 2,242 pipes, and is filled by six bellowses,' each six feet wide and twelve long. An admirably drawn view of the grand front, gives sufficient evidence of the skill and patience of Mr. Lewis. From the literary gentlemen connected with the Public Library, Mr. Dibdin received the most marked attention, especially from the younger Schweighæuser, whose father was absent at Baden. The publishers of the excellent edition of Herodotus by the elder S., complained of the injury done to their property by the London reprint; but Mr. D., when he describes the latter as a page for page' copy of the former, should have added, that it does not contain the various readings,—a most valuable and comprehensive appendage to the original. The following very singular anecdote respecting the surrender of Strasbourg to the troops of Louis XIV. in Sept. 1681, is perfectly new to us it is narrated on respectable historical authority.

Louvois, minister at war, sent word to M. de Chamilli, nephew of the gallant defender of Grave, to come to him immediately to receive his instructions upon a very important mission with which he was to be instantly charged. The instructions were these." Set off this very evening for Basle, in Switzerland; you will reach it in three days; on the fourth day, precisely at two o'clock in the afternoon, you will not fail to repair to the bridge of the Rhine, with a sheet of paper, pen, and ink; you will examine and write down, with the greatest care, every thing which passes under your eye during these two hours. At four o'clock precisely, you will have post-horses to your carriage, ready to start; you will then set off, travel day and night, and bring me every thing which you have written down upon the paper. At whatever hour you arrive, demand an immediate audience of me." M. de Chamilli, though extremely surprised at what seemed to him to be a romantic or puerile mission, nevertheless instantly obeyed. He reached Basle at the time appointed; and precisely at the hour indicated, he was upon the bridge-with paper, pen, and ink, to notify every thing which should take place. At

first, he saw a fruiterer with his baskets; then, a traveller on horseback, dressed in a blue great coat; next, a raggedly dressed countryman; then, common porters. But precisely at three o'clock, a man, in a complete suit of yellow, stopt in the middle of the bridge; went towards the water and leant upon the parapet wall; receded one step; and with a large stick struck three times upon a small mound of earth. This, and every other circumstance, however trivial and minute, was rigidly recorded by M. de Chamilli. The clock struck four, and M. de Chamilli darted away in his carriage, to return to his employer. He arrived within forty-eight hours, about midnight, having travelled without intermission. He demanded, as was agreed, an immediate audience, and seemed quite vexed to have nothing more important to relate. The minister seized his paper, read it with a hurrying eye, and when he came to that part about the man in yellow clothes striking thrice upon the earth, he leaped for joy! Chamilli was dismissed with caresses. The minister went instantly to the king, found him in bed, caused him to be immediately roused-chatted with him for a quarter of an hour at the foot of his bed-and, on leaving him, dispatched four couriers, who were at hand, and who had been waiting several hours, ready to start. Eight days following, Strasbourg was surrounded by French troops, and surrendered to Louis on the 30th of Sept. 1681. The magistrates had betrayed their trusts-and the three blows with the stick was the signal which announced to Louvois that the work of treachery was consummated.'

Disappointed in his hope of an interview with the elder Schweighæuser at Strasbourg, Mr. Dibdin determined on securing that desirable point by a visit to Baden, where he found the Professor, a tall and slight, but firm and straight old gentleman of seventy-three, who gave him a very courteous reception. In the course of their conversations, it appeared that this admirable scholar was first stimulated to the collation of Greek MSS. by the perusal of the Euripides of Musgrave. He mentioned his design of effecting an improved Latin version of Herodotus; but it is not specified in what respects he might deem his former translation defective. When his opinion was asked concerning Valpy's new edition of the Greek Thesaurus, he expressed general approbation of its execution. That thoroughly dull place' Stuttgart, afforded Mr. D. a grand bibliographical triumph, inasmuch as, after an active negotiation with the Director of the Public Library, and a brief interview with the King of Wurtemberg at the Levee, he gained possession, by purchase and exchange, of two ultra-rare editions of Virgil, 1471. A lounge in the studio of Dannecker, the celebrated Suabian sculptor, is agreeably described; but the explanation of the fine outlines of Retsch, from the Faustus of Goethe, is quite erroneous; and the wood engravings of the selected subjects are altogether inferior to the original publication,-an inferiority peculiarly marked in the countenance of Margaret. Ulm, with

its noble cathedral, and Augsburg, with its fine specimens of the early German school of painting, must not detain us from a brief notice of Mr. Dibdin's transactions at Munich. He gives a cursory but animated description of the enchanted palace' of this capital of Bavaria, adverts rather too slightly to the treasures of the Picture Gallery, and, as usual, lingers over the antiquities of the Public Library. But the palmary event of his sojourn here, was the acquisition of the scarcest and brightest of all the Aldine gems,' the first edition of the Greek Hours, printed in 1497. The Prince Royal, who is an eager collector of Alduses, had been extremely urgent to secure it; but the price demanded was so extravagant' as to stagger all bidders except the agent of Lord Spencer, in whose library, thanks to Mr. Dibdin, the volume now rests. He acquired other rarities on less appalling terms. In his bibliographical intercourse with a Baron Von Moll, he was told the following anecdote of Napoleon.

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It was during the crisis of some great battle in Austria, when the fate of the day was very doubtful, that Bonaparte ordered Lasnes to make a decisive movement with his cavalry. Lasnes seemed to hesi tate. Bonaparte reiterated the order, and Lasnes appeared to hesitate again as if doubting the propriety of the movement. Bonaparte eyed him with a look of ineffable contempt; and added--almost fixing his teeth together, in a hissing but biting tone of sarcasm-" Est-ce que Je t'ai fait trop riche ?" Lasnes dashed his spurs into the sides of his charger, turned away, and prepared to put the command of his master into execution.'

From the library of the Benedictine community of St. Peter's at Salzburg, some acquisitions were made at a reasonable price. On the road to Lintz, a more interesting visit to the monastery of Chremsminster afforded a sight-but, to Mr. Dibdin's great regret, a sight only-of a few well preserved vellum rarities, and of some scarce and beautiful Delphins. From the monks of St. Florian, Mölk, and Göttwic, on the route to Vienna, the Travellers experienced a gratifying reception. But what afforded the greatest satisfaction to Mr. D., was the opportunity he had at Göttwic, of inspecting certain rare and curious volumes, and of receiving as a present from the hospitable and courteous Abbot Altman, a copy of the Chronicon Gottwicense. A well chosen point of view exhibits to great advantage the monastery of Mölk, a structure of commanding site and magnificent design, seated on its rock, and looking down on the windings of the Danube; and an ably treated halt of pilgrims' affords an opportunity of introducing some of the rich forest scenery which adorns the approach to Göttwic. There is at least some novelty in the circumstance of an English Protestant

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clergyman dining with the heads of a Benedictine establishment, and proposing as a toast, Increasing prosperity to the monastery of Göttwic!'

At Vienna, Mr. Dibdin's first business was to tender his introductory credentials to M. de Bartsch, an Aulic Counsellor, and chief director of the Library. It appeared that his visit was singularly ill-timed, since it was just at the season when the conservators indulge in a month's annual respite from their usual labours. This difficulty was removed in a way to which, we strongly suspect, no similar body of men in Great Britain, would have been liberal and self-denying enough to consent.

I have been talking the matter over with my brethren and coadjutors in the library-department, (said M. Bartsch,) and we have agreed-considering the great distance and expense of your journey -to give you an extra week's research among our books. We will postpone our regular trip to Baden-whither the court, the noblesse, and our principal citizens at present resort-in order that you may have an opportunity of perfecting your inquiries.'

Mr. Dibdin found himself placed in an awkward situation of contrast to this high-minded courtesy, by the inconvenient memory of M. Kopitar, one of the librarians, who reminded him of a previous interview.

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I had formerly,' writes Mr. D., seen him while he was in England; when he came with Mr. Foss to St. James's Place, to examine the Aldine volumes, and especially those printed upon vellum. He himself reminded me of the chary manner in which I seemed to allow him to handle those precious tomes. "You would scarcely permit me (said he smilingly) to hold them half a minute in my hands: but I will not treat you after the same fashion. You shall handle our vellum books, whether in manuscript, or in print, as long and as attentively as you please."

We should much like to have seen Mr. D.'s countenance and attitude on this occasion. But M. Kopitar is a gentleman, and, though he felt it right to give this pleasant hint to his visiter, he hastened to relieve him by a well-bred assurance that he considered him as having only done his duty.

Both the Travellers found ample scope at Vienna for, the complete exercise of their respective pursuits. While Mr. Lewis was busily occupied in realising with skilful versatility of hand, the scenery, buildings, groupes, and illuminations, which successively presented themselves to his ready pencil, Mr. Dibdin was exploring the Imperial Library with its unrivalled stores; the Cathedral with its exquisite spire; the Augustine Church, containing the monument of the Duchess of Saxe Teschen by Canova; the paintings of the Belvedere; the private library of the Emperor; with a thousand and one other objects of curiosity, of which a bald catalogue would afford but small gratification

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