THIS A Few Words to Followers of Hunts HIS season THE BYSTANDER intends, as heretofore, to give special prominence to the King of Sports HUNTING. Last season, we may say, perhaps without being accused of undue pride that our hunting pages were without parallel in the history of illustrated journalism, both in regard to the thoroughness with which the sport was followed, and the number and the quality of the photographs we published. But, though this journal employs a staff of expert photographers, we recognise that the co-operation of our readers is necessary to enable us to cover all the ground with the thoroughness we should like. How many of our readers attend a meet of hounds, and take snapshots which are never destined to be published for the edification of the world at large? There is never a meet but one finds ardent amateurs with their cameras, and to these we address ourselves. We propose to start with our next number (which, appropriately enough, is our Hunting Number) a Competition for Amateur For six weeks we shall keep this Competition open. All competitors will be asked to do is to forward us snapshots of hunting scenes. It matters nothing where the hunt may be, but the photograph must have been taken subsequent to the start of the Competition. Further particulars will be announced next week, but meantime we may say that, for the photograph which, in the judgment of the Editor, is the best submitted, we shall present as First Prize a delightful little Pony Carriage, Value £16 16s., built by Messrs. J. B. Huxley and Co., Ltd., the well-known carriage-builders of Whitchurch, Salop. An illustration of the car will appear next week. In addition to this, a large number of photographs will be published from among those sent in, and for every photograph so selected we will pay 5s. Look out for next week's "Bystander," which will contain full particulars of this new Competition Photo by Frit The River Derwent at Matlock, one of the finest trout and grayling streams in the Kingdom Four miles of the above river have been poisoned by son.e agency at present unknown. The fish are dying off in shoals. The dest uction was only discovered last week. The local authorities from Darleydale to Matlock are hard at work tracing the cause of the poisoning, and a sample trout has been sent to the County Medical Officer for analysis Open Sesame! During the past week or ten days practically all the representative modistic doors have been opened to my knock, consequently am I primed up with information. A vogue of the hour that clings to my memory most lovingly is the velvet coats and skirts. Around the success of the tailor-made velvet gown there hangs no shadow of doubt. Also is velvet playing a notably conspicuous part in the latest evening toilettes from Paris, mostly in the guise of trains slung round the figure-I have no other way in which to describe the effect-with crossed folds, to simulate the short corsage of the First Empire. The front, or rather under-dress, is usually of satin, literally moulded to the figure, which is "half revealed and half concealed" in the wholly daring character of the Empress Josephine period. This, at any rate, is the dictate of one big authority, while another is equally assertive with the full befrilled skirt and pointed bodice of Louis Seize. Now read, mark, learn, and note my prophecy. Ere we know, the craze of the hour will be the new short sacque coat, which is not, as a matter of fact, a sacque at all. The back is distinctly defined, and the shortened waist is a prominent feature, while the fronts are obviously shapely, although they are allowed to escape the form. This coatee, I am persuaded, is the most serious rival the bolero has ever had to face, nor is its value in any way lessened by the comforting reflection that the enterprising wholesale manufacturers will have none of it. To them it is the subtle, semi-fit, unobtainable caviare, and it is good indeed, in these days of cheap plagiarisms, to be able to hold something sacred. Messrs. Marshall and Snelgrove "The very best shop in London!" How frequently one hears that flattering criticism of this oldestablished Oxford Street firm, which has never permitted itself to be passed in the race by younger rivals. It stands to-day, as it always did, at the top of the tree, renowned for unerring taste and unimpeachable integrity, and with the very happiest faculty for avoiding the commonplace on the one hand and the bizarre on the other. The mantle department is always a particularly liberal education, and this season it appeals to me as more than ever overflowing with delightful surprises. The show of récherché velvet cloaks is particularly good. Positively regal is a Nattier blue embossed velvet, carrying a wide stole of Russian sable; and of really classical beauty, a geranium-pink chiffon velvet, the wide armholes outlined by a finger-depth. of dark fur, from out which emerge flowing sleeves. About the shoulders there is introduced, in the form of a yoke, some beautiful gold embroidery, while the loose fronts are held in place by a little folded vest of the velvet. Of genuinely artistic genre, also, is the dainty evening coat pictured, a tasteful thing of pale grey mousseline de soie, trimmed silver-embroidered lace and a plethora of silk danglements, a line of sable tail, and a lining formed entirely of deep flounces of white chiffon, completing a wholly irresistible model. This looks as though it had been tossed together by fairy fingers, while the back view, selected by Miss Pleydel Young as the most effective aspect, discloses the miraculous way in which the sleeves are manoeuvred out of the folds. One may well pause and wonder over the heights attained under latterday aspiring satorialism. For young ladies' wear, Messrs. Marshall are pioneering the dearest little Burnous cloaks, in fine souple cloths, hung about with heavy silk cords-a flattering recognition on their part of the claims of the Second Empire. And it is, I am sure, most superfluous to add, that the fur models here are ever as sans reproche, the short-fitted coat coming in for significant approval. As a Motorist More forcibly than ever was I made to realise this very week that, for winter motoring, leather is the one and only practical medium for effectually keeping out the cold. It was during a run up to Nottingham, on the Great North Road, that this conviction was borne in upon me once again, the atmosphere from Hatfield lowering perceptibly with every mile we went further north. It was a glorious spin, and, for what it is worth, here is information of two new police traps, one this side of Grantham, and two, very close together, when you have passed through the town. In addition being new, these traps are particularly nasty ones, but happily all good and true motorists know to a nicety their whereabouts, thanks be to the honour that prevails among the fraternity. A common cause does, indeed, make us wondrous kind. to But I was talking about leather, and have to tell in particular of the value of the new souple quality. For every purpose this is very naturally superseding the old-time heavy weight, though in the cause of blouses it has saved the whole situation. With an intrepidity that did us credit, we honestly tried to believe in the finality of that stiff, hard-dressed leather, and we possibly should have fought with it to the end, lacking any other. I certainly should have done so, for my belief in this natural production is complete, but the gods are kind to those who believe, and the fine souple quality that has recently arrived is simply incomparable. There is a feeling that is truly feminine for pastel tints. Among other blouse models, I was shown a pastel pink, with collar and facings of a natural suéde tint, while a champagne was effectively contrasted with Royal blue. These, however, scarcely workaday possessions, and will only appeal to the elect few, those with whom motoring is a serious pursuit selecting the more serviceable navys, greens, and fawns. More Paquin Persuasions At the play presented by Mr. Charles Frohman on September 27, entitled On the Quiet, admittedly the most lovely gowns were those worn by Miss Pauline French, and designed and executed by the inimitable Paquin. There is a peculiarly correct and exquisite Empire creation of green embroidered tulle, trimmed with velvet the same shade, and made over white mousseline de soie. A little Malines lace is introduced on the short puffed sleeves, while the corselet is of embroidered gold ribbon. Miss French also wears a day costume, quite equally desirable, of Vieux-rose cloth, the full skirt trimmed with arabesques of silk braid the same shade, and the corsage draped from the shoulders and crossed in front over a gilet of pearl-grey velvet, a chemisette of white Malines lace, and caught with two quaint oxydised buckles. The grey velvet again is introduced in the form of revers to the elbow sleeves, above frills of Malines lace, an exquisitely draped belt of soft silk defining the waist, and concluding an wholly exquisite story. We beg to call attention to our special lines in Luggage Floats and Governess Cars, as shown above. Over 700 of these have already been sold. Fitted with Lancewood Shafts and Warner Wheels, Patent Turn-Over Seats; all warranted and sent on approval by expenses being paid, carriage being refunded if approved. Anyone purchasing one of these special lines can have half cost refunded if returning vehicle in good condition within twelve months. Rubber Tyres, £4 4 0 extra. Harness, £5 5 0 per set. Please send for list. WHITCHURCH, SALOP. JAS. SHOOLBRED & Co. LADIES' OUTFITTING & BLOUSE DEPT. No. 8130. Smart French Flannel Shirt, in Black, Cream, Navy, and Grenat, with Self Embroidery, RCHESTRAL MUSIC, the noblest ORCH work of the great masters, has hitherto demanded interpretation by an orchestra, and SO an exploration of any extent into this region of musical creation has been denied to the individual, on account of the few opportunities afforded of becoming acquainted with the masterpieces of harmony. The Eolian has changed all this. It has opened a vast realm of pleasure to the lover of music, of melody in its highest form of grandeur and beauty. The Æolian is played by means of a perforated paper roll, which interprets the score with faultless technique, but the expression remains completely under the control of the player, who imparts it through various stops. Thus one is enabled to conduct an orchestra in one's home, and all the greatest works are available to be interpreted at leisure. It seems almost beyond the bounds of belief that anyone, even one with no technical knowledge of music whatever, can play the finest compositions with ease. However, a visit to Eolian Hall will effectually demonstrate the powers of this wonderful instrument, the tone qualities and sympathetic rendering of which have been eulogised by the most famous living musicians. If inconvenient to call, write for Catalogue 30. PRICE, 89 Tottenham House, Tottenham Court Road, London, W. The Orchestrelle Co. ÆOLIAN HALL 135-6-7, New Bond Street, London, W. A Woman's Note Book The American Girl and the Word "Obey " Here is a chance for the modern maiden of ultraindependence who wishes to get married and yet keep up all the appearance of freedom which is to be found, or supposed to be found, in the state of single blessedness. In America, we read, "In marriage services which admit of alteration, the word 'obey' is said to be omit ed now more often than it is used. The American man tends towards reason and good humour. For him to wear, in the affairs of every-day, that autocratic and s 'emn demeanour which an English husband not infrequently exhibits would be forbidden by his conception of the ridiculous.” It is not, evidently, that the English husband expects to be obeyed any more than the American one; but only that he is anxious to uphold his rights, even if he cannot enforce them, though it may be at the cost of making a fool of himself. The: e is, perhaps truth in the statement that Englishmen have not, as a rule, a very great sense of humour; but I think the "autocratic and solemn demeanour," which they are supposed to wear after entering into the joys and worries of matrimony, is a distinct libel on them. Why, not one man in a thousand could be bothered to uphold his dignity in this alarming and highly grotesque manner, nor would any sensible husband wish to inflict such a gloomy weight of authority upon his wife. The English Husband not so Black as Painted When, however, a man is autocratic by nature, and takes a pride in exerting authority merely for the very silly reason that he can do so if he chooses, this is a part of his whole nature, and shows itself in every relationship; it is certainly not a sudden characteristic which appears when he puts the ring upon his bride's finger. I do not think we should find many bridegrooms in this country who would feel greatly perturbed if the word "obey" did not happen to form part of the marriage service. Whatever differences may arise later, it is certainly not to be imagined that the idea of primary importance in a man's mind on his marriage morning is that his wife shall do what he tells her. England the Land of Happy Marriages However, from the autocratic husbands' point of view, I do not think that the expunged word will make any difference to their authority. We all know women are famed for breaking prom's.s they do not want to keep. If a girl d es not "honour" her husband, it is to be feared that the "obey" is of little avail; if, however, she fulfils the former condition, it is hardly likely that she will go against his reasonable wishes, because they are called advice instead of command. Indeed, I think the chances of success are all with the husband who prefers to give counsel rather than to exert authority. Woman always has been, and always will be, a rebellious creature, and for one woman who will "give in," a hundred will allow themselves to be advised, which is often the same thing, only it sounds so much nicer. Nevertheless, the fact that there are so many happy marriages in England, although there has never been any serious opposition to that dreadful word "obey," leads one to suppose that it does not materially affect the welfare of the wives, nor render the husbands unbearably self-important. At any rate, girls continue to say it very cheerfully. The Menu: SOME ECONOMICAL WHITE SOUPS White Stock Two pounds knuckle of veal, three pints water, one onion, one bay-leaf, half head of celery, six peppercorns, salt, bunch of herbs. Cut the veal into small pieces, put in cold water, and simmer four hours, strain, and, when cold, remove the fat. White stock can also be made from fowls or rabbits, but the Palestine Soup and the Vegetable Marrow Soup-the recipes of which I am giving below-are equally good made without stock, only with the addition of milk, and, of course, a little cream is an improvement. POTAGE À LA PALESTINE Two pounds of Jerusalem artichokes, one quart milk, one onion (six cloves stuck in it), I oz. butter, I oz. flour, whole pepper, salt, one gill cream. Peel the artichokes, weigh them, boil in salted water till tender, pulp through a sieve. Boil the onion, cloves, and pepper, in the milk. When well flavoured, strain it. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, then gradually the milk and artichoke pulp, boil it up, stirring well all the time, lastly stir in the cream. Add more milk if the soup is too thick. MILK SOUP LADY PHYLLIS. Two pounds of potatoes, two leeks or Spanish onions, two quarts of boiling water, one pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, three dessertspoonfuls of crushed tapioca, pepper and salt to taste. The potatoes and leeks must be peeled and put into two quarts of boiling water, in which they must continue to boil until quite tender; pass both water and vegetables together through a sieve, and put them back into the stewpan; now add the milk, butter, and seasoning; place it on the fire and keep stirring, at the same time sprinkling in the crushed tapioca; another ten minutes' boiling will be necessary, after this is all added, to cook the tapioca; then serve. Care must be taken to keep stirring till the end, or the tapioca will stick together and be lumpy. CELERY SOUP Take the white part of four heads of celery and cut into pieces about an inch long, and put them into a saucepan with two onions peeled and sliced thin, 4 oz. of lean ham cut into dice, and one pint of nicely flavoured white stock. Boil until the vegetables are sufficiently soft to pulp them, press them through a sieve and return them to the saucepan; add three pints more stock, 2 oz. of butter, a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of flour, which have been moistened to a thin, smooth paste with a little cold stock or water. Boil again for half an hour, then skim if necessary, and add a teacupful of boiling milk or cream. Serve with fried bread. EMILIA. |