To those who, like myself, are deeply interested in all that pertains to dress, the varying opinions that prevail respecting the elegance of the Empire modes are replete with instruction. Now, the truth of the matter is, only the elect are capable of either expressing or wearing this style. The average woman has neither the aplomb to carry off these slightly suggestive garments, nor her modiste the cultured understanding to produce them, under the required perfect auspices. To Paquin, indeed, must be readily granted the palm of bringing out the Empire under its most attractive aspect. Among the evening gowns at Dover Street there stands forth in delightful memory a white chiffon frock, with a finger-depth of sable at the hem, above a narrow-gathered flounce, that is completed by the dearest little Empire coatee of white taffeta, hand-embroidered with a delicate posy design, the fronts thrown back over a double-breasted vest of the same. A more divine dancing-frock there could not be imagined, and, in view of the discussion that is going on respecting the revival of short skirts for terpsichorean events, I may mention that Paquin affects a short train. The silk coatee and the transparent jupe for evening wear, however, is overflowing with fascinating possibilities, and it is one I commend to your very particular care and consideration. Another Paquin persuasion is a short-waist Directoire coat, verily the most picturesque thing ever conceived, and effected in oldworld colouring of snuff brown, Empire green, and old blue, with floppy revers, opening upon embroidered gilets of daring contrast. One of these coats, worn with a Josephine hat, the left side of the brim uplifted on a sweep of ostrich feathers, creates a picture it is impossible to overlook. A Josephine hat, by the way, is to be recognised by an assertively round crown that bears a strong similitude to the modern man's bowler; the sweeping feather, usually of shaded quality, being equally characteristic of the bewitching favourite. Synonymous to Sport Is the name of Burberrys'. The first creed with this firm in the Haymarket is that, to make other people believe in you, you must believe in yourself. Burberrys' believe in themselves, and they base their confidence on a knowledge and experience that comes second to none. Scarcely a week passes but I meet some poor woman cast into the depths of despair over some cheap ephemerality purchased in view of motoring, or golfing, or driving, and which has succumbed under the first stress of unkind weather. Only costly experience appears capable of convincing people-my own sex especially-that a really good and reliable article commands a certain. price, and also that nothing is simpler in these ingenious days than to affect a fictitiously good appearance. But at Burberrys', they do not do such things; everything there is exactly what it appears. The materials are sound, the workmanship irreproachable, and the general understanding of the requirements of sport unique in its thoroughness. For hats alone they hold a particular diploma, and in this respect bow before no decision other than their Own. It is, indeed, a secret known only to themselves, how with tweeds, and friezes, and the like weighty fabrics, they are able to achieve the featherweight results they do. And their hats are so wonderfully becoming too, while the feather mounts invariably found adorning these millinerial efforts are obviously culled from some secret source. The latest shape is "The Dame," arranged on the lines of a panama, and quite as amiably adaptable as that natural straw production. This is illustrated, by the way, in the group, surmounting that capital Rambler wrap, a simply ideal affair for railway travelling, driving to meets, motoring, etc. The feature of the Rambler is an extravagant roominess, but the picture of it is so wonderfully faithful, the virtues are explicit enough. As a rule, it is built of checked Burberry tweed, and, according to taste and requirement, is lined with plush, leather, or not at all. The companion sketch reveals Burberrys' genius in the realms of the strictly tailor-made suit. The lines and proportions of this particular coat are a very joy to the eye, while the little white inserted motifs are of kid, that throw up in strong effective relief against the background of fine navy serge cloth, the type of cloth that is exclusive. The skirt, also, is perfectly balanced, and a complete joy in every respect; and the hat, a game-feather confection, as you see, but infinitely superior to the majority of its contemporaries, is being made up on the skins, and, consequently, imperishable. A feather hat, fashioned on these common-sense lines, is capable of facing and resisting any weather with the utmost composure. Referring to leather, Burberrys' are running a big The "ONOTO" is a Self-filling Fountain Pen. You unscrew the top, draw out the Piston, dip the nib in the inkwell and press down, and the pen is full. Think how convenient! No tube and teat to hunt up. No time wasted, and NO INKY FINGERS. The "ONOTO" has other advantages. . A patent twin-feed ensures regular and immediate flow. The regulating valve enables you to regulate flow to a nicety and stop it altogether when not in use. The "ONOTO" costs 16/6 (10/6 without Selffilling patent). Of all Stationers, or direct from Manufacturers. Send for Descriptive Pamphl t, it will interest you. THOMAS DE LA RUE & Co., Ltd., LONDON, E.C. J. B. HUXLEY & CO. COACH BUILDERS. Estab. 150. Gold Medal Award. Inventors of the Well Car. We beg to call attention to our special lines in Luggage Floats and Governess Cars, as shown above. Over 700 of these have already been sold. Fitted with Lancewood Shafts and Warner Wheels, Patent Turn-Over Seats; all warranted and sent on approval by expenses being paid, carriage being refunded if approved. Anyone purchasing one of these special lines can have half cost refunded if returning vehicle in good condition within twelve months. Rubber Tyres, £4 4 0 extra. Harness, £5 5 0 per set. Please send for list. WHITCHURCH, SALOP. A Rambler Wrap and a tailor-made Costume, sketched at Burberrys', Haymarket speciality in the shape of a fine souple quality, the like to which we have never had before; and, in response to a demand, the pale pastel tints are fully represented, together with those of darker and more serviceable character. But the chief point with regard to this leather is its extreme lightness, which is attained without any loss to its value in keeping out the cold, wet, wind, etc. Burberrys' Gabardine is an old story, though one that never wearies in the telling. This has carried its fame to many distant lands, and is prepared to court further favour this winter, lined with camel's fleece. Impervious to water of every description, Gabardine is yet free of all the objectionable qualities of rubber, and the fact that Burberrys' believe in it themselves is a safe guarantee that everyone else may do so too. A Woman's Note The Old-Fashioned Marriage Discussion Marriage is the eternal discussion, and one which the Press has taken up again with all the vigour of youth, as though such a well-worn theme was but an infant problem newly descended upon this weary old earth. The fact is, the thing is insoluble; and on the lines we are attempting to solve it, it is more than a doubtful question—it is an absolutely incomprehensible one. This is because the arguments are looked at but from a single point of view — the speaker's own; consequently, theories clash and disagree even when they do not baldly contradict one another. Marriage is no ordinary fact which we can examine and pronounce briefly good or bad, like a piece of furniture or a potato; it is, indeed, impossible to pronounce upon it at all from the outside, watching other people's good fortunes or mistakes, while absolutely without knowledge of motives, characters, or circumstances. We are too practical. It leads us into a dulness which becomes stupidity, and thus defeats its own aim; while common-sense is no sense at all unless backed by a wide horizon of more enduring qualities. That is why the matchmaker is such a dangerous mistake. A certain girl gets looked upon as sure to make a good wife; a certain man is regarded as an ideal for a good husband; but we are none of us sufficiently perfect to suit all environments with facility; and "Mamma," looking on with proud satisfaction at her handiwork which has turned out so well," little knows how dearly many a man and girl have to pay for relatives' blundering, or their own apparent suitability. 66 Too Many Wiseacres The fact is, we all clamour, and we all say we are right. No one has the modesty to admit that it is impossible to give a verdict on so large a subject, of the conditions of which we mostly know nothing; and that where those chiefly concerned sometimes make such fatal mistakes, it is an absurdity for anyone to pronounce upon the institution as a whole, The Menu: Sole au Gratin A Curry of Lobster or Crayfish SOLE AU GRATIN Take a skinned sole, cut off the fins, wash and dry it in a cloth. Prick it with a knife both sides, take a sprig of parsley, Lalf a shallot, a few mushrooms, chop them all up finely ; butter a baking-tin and sprinkle half the chopped-up mixture over it, lay the sole on it, sprinkle in the remainder over it, and add a squeeze of lemon-juice and 1 oz. of butter cut into small pieces, and over all two tablespoonfuls of glaze; put the dish in the oven for a little more than twenty minutes, and then sprinkle over it some brown breadcrumbs and serve. A CURRY OF LOBSTER OR CRAYFISH For a curry, the crayfish is equally as good as lobster, as the flesh is beautifully firm and white, the only difference between them is, that there are no claws, as in lobsters. For the curry, take 4 oz. of butter, put it into a saucepan, and slice into it two onions. Fry them till brown over a slow fire, then remove the onions into another dish. Cut up the lobster or crayfish into Note Book as though we were all as like as two pins. Bachelors and old maids tell married people what to do, the way to do it, and how easy it is to make their home into a kind of shining Paradise; the cynic, who has been deceived, prates endlessly about the falsity of women; while the commonplace little clerk, too stupid to see his partner's defects, harangues his bored acquaintances on feminine virtue, viewed from his wife's devotion to himself and her domestic absorption in the price of mutton; and these people (and many others) are willing to offer advice. on their own lines, or to criticise exclusively from their own experience. Marriage, friendship, and all the great things of life, are roads upon which it is not easy to tread; when people (as is frequently the case) go very happily along them, it is due to their mutual tact and other suitable qualities; but our next-door neighbours cannot come in and walk our paths for us, though they are generally eagerly and officiously anxious to do so. And Too Much Cheap Advice Our The other day, I saw in a bookseller's a book called, "How to Comfort the Sick." The title was objectionable; it reminds me of this very advice difficulty from which we cannot get away. There is nothing we are not advised now, either by writing or by word, so that it is possible to attempt to learn our virtues, our thoughts, our duties, with mathematical precision and a year - book at elbows. When the time comes, in which this easy method of living is universally practised-and it is only necessary to pay a penny for a pamphlet, or steal a surreptitious five seconds' read at a bookstall, in order to be informed of those momentous affairs, and make the decisions which our advisers are so anxious to eliminate from our characters by supplying them themselves-when that time comes, undoubtedly our woes, our burdens (and our joys), will be lighter; we shall also have reached the height of commonplace audacity. LADY PHYLLIS. A FEW TEMPTING DISHES small pieces, and stir into it one and a half tablespoonfuls of curry powder, put this into the melted butter, and stew over a slow fire until the fish becomes a light brown. Add a little good gravy to cover the fish, season with salt, and stew over a slow fire, and, when the gravy has become thick, add a coffee-cupful of milk or cream, and the juice of a lemon. A dessertspoonful of sweet chutney is a great improvement. RICE CROQUETTES WITH PARMESAN Wash lb. of rice, and simmer slowly in a quart of milk and water until the rice is nicely swollen and the quart of liquid all absorbed. Then place in a colander before the fire, and shake occasionally until the rice is quite dry. Add breadcrumbs and Parmesan (an equal cupful of each), a little salt and cayenne; then roll into small round balls, dip each one into egg and butter, and fry a delicate brown. Sprinkle thickly with grated Parmesan, and serve either hot or cold. POTATO PUFF One pint of hot mashed potato; add one teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoon ul of pepper, two spoonfuls of celery salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and hot milk to moisten. When partly cool, add the yolks of two eggs well beaten and the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for ten minutes. EMILIA. |