The singularly-shaped hill, called HELM CRAG, forms a conspicuous feature in the scenery of Grasmere. Its apex exhibits so irregular an outline, as to have given rise to numberless whimsical comparisons. Gray compares it to a gigantic building demolished, and the stones which composed it flung across in wild confusion. And Wordsworth speaks of

"The ancient woman seated on Helm Crag."

The same poet, in another place, gives the old lady a companion

"The Astrologer, sage Sidrophel,

Where at his desk and book he sits,
Puzzling on high his curious wits;
He whose domain is held in common
With no one but the Ancient Woman,
Cowering beside her rifted Cell,
As if intent on magic spell;

Dread pair, that spite of wind and weather,
Still sit upon Helm Crag together!"

The Waggoner.

It may be an inducement for the stranger to ascend Helm Crag to say that its summit, distant about two miles from the inn, commands an extensive and delightful prospect. Helvellyn and Saddleback are seen over Dunmail Raise. Wansfell Pike, and the upper end of Windermere are perceived between Nab Scar and Loughrigg Fell. Esthwaite Water is viewed in the south with the Coniston range to the right. Langdale Pikes peer over Easdale, in which a glimpse of the tarn is caught.

66

The glen of EASDALE, (which, with reference to Grasmere, has been described as a chamber within a chamber, or rather a closet within a chamber-a chapel within a cathedral—a little private oratory within a chapel,") deserves a visit for its picturesque and secluded beauty.

"The spot was made by Nature for herself."

It lies in a recess between Helm Crag and Silver How, and the ascent, for it is of greater elevation than Gras

F

mere Vale, commands good retrospective views.

It

contains a large tarn, and a small cascade, called Sour Milk Gill. It is a matter of no great difficulty to reach the summit of Langdale Pikes through this vale; and those partial to hill rambles may cross Codale Fell, and descend through Stonethwaite to Borrowdale. A fatal accident which befell two of the inhabitants of Easdale upwards of forty years ago, still lives in the memory of the dalelanders. George and Sarah Green, poor and hard-working peasants, in returning home, late on a winter evening, from Langdale, were lost in a snowstorm, which at the same time locked up six children within their Easdale cottage for several days. During that period, the eldest child, a girl only nine years old, exhibited unusual care and thoughtfulness, in providing for the wants of the orphan household. At length, making her escape, she alarmed the neighbourhood; but it was not until after a search of three days that the bodies of her parents were discovered on the hills, lying not far from each other.

Excursions may be made from Grasmere into Langdale and Patterdale. The road to the former valley divides into two, soon after crossing Red Bank. The road on the right, which passes High Close, must be taken, if the object in view be to visit Great Langdale and the Pikes; but, in order to enter Little Langdale, either Skelwith or Elterwater Bridges, each three miles from Grasmere, must be crossed. The chart of Windermere will explain these directions. A mountain path, ten miles in length, conducting past Grisedale Tarn, and through the glen of Grisedale to Ulleswater, quits the Keswick road near the Swan Inn.

Finally, amongst the excursions from Grasmere, that to the summit of Helvellyn, and to Langdale Pikes, through Easdale, may be mentioned.

The road to

DUNMAIL RAISE

is a long ascent, but its surface is good. The summit

of the pass is six miles and a half from Ambleside, and about seven hundred and twenty feet high; Steel Fell is on the left, and Seat Sandal on the right. Grasmere

Lake looks well from the ascent, backed by Loughrigg Fell; Butterlip How, a small elevation in the valley, hides part of it for some time. A heap of stones on the top is said to mark the place of an engagement between Dunmail, King of Cumberland, and Edmund the Saxon King, in 945. The former was defeated and killed; the eyes of his two sons were put out by order of Edmund, and the territory was given to Malcolm, King of Scotland::

They now have reached that pile of stones,
Heaped over brave King Dunmail's bones;
He who once held supreme command,
Last king of Rocky Cumberland.

His bones and those of all his power,

Slain here in a disastrous hour.

The boundary line between Westmorland and Cumberland crosses the top of the pass.

ing to descend,

Soon after commenc

THIRLEMERE

comes into view, and Lonscale Fell is seen in the distance. The little inn, the Horse's Head, at Wytheburn, is seven miles and three quarters from Ambleside, and tourists frequently make it their night quarters before climbing Helvellyn. Hard by, is

Wytheburn's modest house of prayer,
As lowly as the lowliest dwelling.

People on foot who are familiar with the scenery between this place and Keswick, frequently vary their ramble by crossing the Armboth Fells to the Glen of Watendlath, and then proceed along the margin of Derwentwater to Keswick. The stranger who desires to adopt this plan should take a cart track which leaves the main road on the left soon after passing the Horse's

Head. The meadows at the head of Thirlemere are crossed, and then the road winds up the steep face of the Fell. When the summit is gained, a north-westerly direction must be taken. There is a path, but it is difficult to trace. The great buttresses of Helvellyn rise like walls from the valley behind, and the ascent of the mountain seems from this place quite impracticable. The man is invisible, being concealed by the shoulder. Skiddaw in another direction has a grand appearance. On beginning to descend, the whole range of mountains in the west is seen drawn out in majestic array. The distance from the inn at Wytheburn to the highest house in Watendlath, is about three miles and a half.

Thirlemere lies in the vale of Legberthwaite; it is not much more than two miles and a half in length, and it is very narrow; indeed, at one part it is so narrow, that a wooden bridge is thrown from bank to bank. The precipices around it are fine, and one at the upper end, called Eagle Crag, is a striking object. It has one small island near the foot. There is another tall crag that bears the name of Raven Crag at its lower extremity. The Mere belongs to T. S. Leathes, Esq., of Dalehead House, and hence it is sometimes called Leathes Water. By way of varying the views, the lake may be crossed at the wooden bridge, and the high road rejoined a short distance behind its foot. The stream issuing from the lake runs through the vale of St. John (see page 78), at the entrance to which stands the famous Castle Rock. The ascent of Helvellyn is sometimes begun near the foot of Thirlemere. Smeathwaite Bridge, where the road crosses St. John's Beck, is eleven miles and a quarter from Ambleside.

KESWICK.

[Inns:-Royal Oak; Queen's Head; King's Arms.] [KESWICK to AMBLESIDE.-Itin., ROUTE IV.] [KESWICK-BASSENTHWAITE LAKE-COCKERMOUTH -WHITEHAVEN.-ROUTE VI.] [KESWICK-BORROWDALE-BUTTERMERE-SCALE

HILL-COCKERMOUTH.-ROUTE VII.] [KESWICK-BORROWDALE-WAST WATER-EGREMONT.-ROUTE VIII.]

[KESWICK to PENRITH.-ROUTE IX.]

KESWICK, a market town in the parish of Crosthwaite, and county of Cumberland, is situate on the south bank of the Greta, in a large and fertile vale, little more than a mile from the foot of Skiddaw, and a mile from Derwentwater. "This vale," says Coleridge, "is about as large a basin as Loch Lomond; the latter is covered with water; but in the former instance we have two lakes, (Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Mere), with a charming river to connect them, and lovely villages at the foot of the mountain, and other habitations, which give an air of life and cheerfulness to the whole place." The town contains about 2200 inhabitants, and consists of one long street. The principal manufactures are linsey-woolsey stuffs, and edge-tools, particularly the former. Black-lead pencils made of the plumbago, (or wad, as it is provincially called), extracted from the mine in Borrowdale, are also a considerable branch of manufacture. The Town Hall, erected in 1813, upon the site of the old Court House, stands in the centre of the town. The clock-bell, which was taken from a building that formerly stood on Lord's Island in the lake, has the letters and figures "H.D.R.O., 1001," upon it- -a decisive proof of its high antiquity.

The Parish Church, an ancient structure, stands alone about three-quarters of a mile distant, midway between the mountain and the lake. It is dedicated to St. Kentigern, to whom, under his alias of St. Mungo, Glasgow