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required to reach the summit of the pass. Looking back, the contracted vale, through which we have passed, lies below, and the spot is high enough to command a view of Lancaster Sands. The descent is as precipitous as the ascent; Harter Fell presenting, on the left, a noble front to the valley of Mardale below, whilst Branstree stands on the right. From a point about two-thirds of the way down, a considerable portion of Hawes Water comes into sight; and in descending, fine views of the ridges running up from the valley are obtained. A hollow to the west encloses Blea Water, and above is the loftiest part of High Street; a ridge called Long Stile runs up from the valley to a narrow portion of High Street, termed the Straits of Riggendale. Over Long Stile, the rough and conical face of Kidsty Pike shows itself. A stream issues from Blea Water; and, after rushing down the hill side, is seen to join the one from Small Water, which latter distinguishes the glen traversed by the road into Kentmere. The Dun Bull, a homely publichouse on Mardale Green, offers welcome refreshment to the weary traveller, who finds himself a mile from the Head of Hawes Water, and fifteen from Kendal. That lake, and the road to Penrith, are described on a subsequent page. If it be desired to reach Ulleswater, the nearest road will be seen by consulting the chart.

BOWNESS. [KENDAL-BOWNESS-HAWKSHEAD-CONISTON— ITIN., ROUTE II.]

THIS pretty village is placed on the edge of a large bay of Windermere, eight miles from Kendal, six from Ambleside, and two from Birthwaite, the Terminus of the Kendal and Windermere Railway. At the latter place a spacious hotel has recently been erected on an eminence commanding a view of the greater part of Windermere, and of the magnificent mountain scenery beyond. Omnibuses to and from Bowness run in

connection with all the trains, and the steamers call there in their voyages from one end of the lake to the other. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is an ancient structure, with a square tower and the remains of what was a finely painted chancel-window, which originally belonged to Furness Abbey

"All garlanded with carven imageries,

And diamonded with panes of quaint device."

When perfect it had seven compartments; the second represents St. George and the Dragon; on the third, fourth, and fifth, the Crucifixion is figured, with the Virgin on one side, and St. John, the beloved disciple, on the other side of the Cross, whilst the arms of France and England are quartered above, and a group of monks in the habit of their order, and labelled with their names, is pictured underneath. In the seventh division are depicted two mitred abbots, and below them two monks. Armed figures and tracery fill up the rest of the window, interspersed with the armorial bearings of families who conferred benefactions upon the abbey, amongst which the coat of the Flemings frequently occurs. The churchyard contains a monument to the memory of Richard Watson, Bishop of Llandaff, author of "The Apology for the Bible,” and other well known works. He was born at Haversham in Westmorland, where his father was schoolmaster for upwards of forty years. The bishop's residence, Calgarth Park, being in the immediate neighbourhood, he was interred here. The inscription upon his tomb is simply" Ricardi Watson, Episcopi Landavensis, cineribus sacrum obiit Julii 1. A.D. 1816, Ætatis 79.” The interior of the church may be described in these lines, taken from "the Excursion," which have been suggested by this, or a similar structure :

"Not raised in nice proportions was the pile,
But large and massy, for duration built;
With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld
By naked rafters, intricately crossed

Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove,

All wither'd by the depth of shade above.
Admonitory texts inscribed the walls-
Each in its ornamental scroll enclosed,
Each also crown'd with winged heads-a pair
Of rudely-painted cherubim. The floor
Of nave and aisle, in unpretending guise,
Was occupied by oaken benches, ranged
In seemly rows

And marble monuments were here display'd
Thronging the walls, and on the floor beneath
Sepulchral stones appear'd with emblems graven,
And foot-worn epitaphs, and some with small
And shining effigies of brass inlaid."

The school-house has recently been rebuilt through the munificence of the late Mr. Bolton of Storrs. It stands on an eminence to the east of the village, and forms a handsome edifice. The view from the front is exquisitely beautiful, comprising the whole of the upper half of the lake. The mountains round the head, into the recesses of which the waters seem to penetrate, arrange themselves in highly graceful forms, and the wooded heights of the opposite shore cast their shadow upon "the bosom of the steady lake." From this point Belle Isle appears to be a portion of the mainland.

The villas in the neighbourhood of Bowness are-Holly Hill (Mrs. Bellasis), The Craig (W. R. Gregg, Esq.), Belle Isle (H. Curwen, Esq.), Ferny Green (Mrs. Greaves), Burnside (G. A. Aufrere, Esq.), Belfield (J. Bryans, Esq.), Storrs Hall (Rev. Thomas Stanaforth), Quarry How (Thomas Ullock, Esq.), Rayrigg (Major Rodgers), The Wood (Miss Yates), St. Catherine's (the Earl of Bradford), Elleray (Professor Wilson), Orrest Head (Mr. Braithwaite), Calgarths (Edward Swinburne, Esq.), Belle Grange (Mrs. Curwen), Wray (William Wilson, Esq.)

WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS.

Boating upon the Lake, a minute description of which is hereafter given, will probably be the source of amusement resorted to earliest, and most frequently. The various islands should be visited, and these being unusually prolific in plants, will afford much amusing occupation to the botanist. Sailing towards the head. of the Lake, we enjoy the same prospect as that seen from the northern extremity of Belle Isle. As we ad

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vance, Langdale Pikes start from behind Furness Fells; several mountain-tops intervene, and then Wetherlam's massy front appears.

A short pull will take the boat to BELLE ISLE, upon which strangers are allowed to land. It contains Mr. Curwen's residence, erected by Mr. English, in 1776. This structure forms a perfect circle, fifty-four feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome-shaped roof, and contains four stories, the kitchens and offices being sunk nine feet below the surface of the ground. The principal entrance is a portico, supported by six massy columns and two pilasters. The stones used in the

building are, for the most part, of extraordinary size, some being twenty-two feet in length, and a great number fifteen feet. When the ground underneath the site of the house was excavated, traces of an ancient building were discovered at a considerable depth below the surface, and several pieces of old armour were found at the same time. The island,* which is rather more than a

* This island was formerly the property and residence of the Philipsons, an ancient Westmorland family, who were owners of Calgarth also. During the civil war between Charles I. and the Parliament, there were two brothers, both of whom had espoused the royal cause. The elder, to whom the island belonged, was a colonel, and the younger a major in the royal army. The latter was a man of high and adventurous courage; and from some of his desperate exploits had acquired amongst the Parliamentarians the appellation of Robin the Devil. It happened, when the king's death had extinguished for a time the ardour of the cavaliers, that a certain Colonel Briggs, an officer in Oliver's army, resident in Kendal, having heard that Major Philipson was secreted in his brother's house on Belle Isle, went thither, armed with his double authority, (for, like Sir Hudibras, he was a civil magistrate as well as a military man—

"Great on the bench, great in the saddle,

Mighty he was at both of these,

And styled of War as well as Peace"),

with the view of making a prisoner of the obnoxious Royalist. The major, however, was on the alert, and gallantly withstood a siege of eight months until his brother came to his relief. The attack being repulsed, the major was not a man to sit down quietly under the insult he had received. He raised a small band of horse, and set forth one Sunday morning in search of Briggs. Upon arriving at Kendal, he was informed the colonel was at prayers. Without hesitation, he proceeded to church, and having posted his men at the chief entrance, dashed forward himself down the principal aisle into

mile in circumference, contains upwards of thirty acres. It is intersected by neat walks, over which fine trees throw their massy arms. In high floods it is cut in two by the water. From its northern extremity, looking towards the head of the lake, the prospect is particularly beautiful. The islet to the left is Hen Holm, the next is Lady Holm. Wansfell Pike is beheld over the former, and to the right of this mountain the valley of Troutbeck lies amongst the hills. The wooded park is

the midst of the assemblage. Whatever was his intention-whether to shoot the colonel on the spot, or merely to carry him off prisonerit was defeated: his enemy was not present. The congregation, struck with amazement at the sudden apparition of an armed man on horseback in the midst of their devotions, made no attempt to seize the major, who, on discovering that his object could not be effected, galloped up another aisle. As he was making his exit from the church, his head came violently in contact with the arch of the doorway, which was much lower than that through which he had entered. His helmet was struck off by the blow, his saddle girth gave way, and he himself was much stunned The congregation, taking advantage of the mishap, attempted to detain him; but with the assistance of his followers, he made his escape, after a violent struggle, and rode back to his brother's house. The helmet still hangs in one of the aisles of Kendal church. This incident furnished Sir Walter Scott with a hint for his description of a similar adventure in “ Rokeby,"

canto vi.

"All eyes upon the gateway hung,

When through the Gothic arch there sprung
A horseman armed at headlong speed-
Sable his cloak, his plume, his steed-
Fire from the flinty floor was spurn'd,
The vaults unwonted clang return'd!
One instant's glance around he threw,
From saddle-bow his pistol drew,
Grimly determined was his look,
His charger with his spurs he struck---
All scattered backward as he came,
For all knew Bertram Risingham.
Three bounds that noble courser gave,
The first has reach'd the central nave,
The second clear'd the chancel wide,
The third he was at Wycliffe's side,

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While yet the smoke the deed conceals,
Bertram his ready charger wheels-
But flounder'd on the pavement floor
The steed, and down the rider bore-
And bursting in the headlong sway,
The faithless saddle girths gave way.
"Twas while he toiled him to be freed,
And with the rein to raise the steed,
That from amazement's iron trance,
All Wycliffe's soldiers waked at once."--

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