Imatges de pàgina
PDF
EPUB

are plainly visible. To the left of Bowfell, Langdale Pikes are descried; and beyond, the eye rests upon Hill Bell, High Street, Wansfell, Fairfield, separated by the Grisedale depression from Seat Sandal, and Helvellyn in succession. In the north, Skiddaw and Saddleback cannot be mistaken, beyond which, the blue mountains of Scotland bound the prospect. Immediately beneath the spectator, he will perceive Sty Head Tarn. Great End being on the right, conceals Stonethwaite, and a little to the left rises the mighty mass of Great Gable. Borrowdale is visible in patches only, but the greatest part of Derwentwater is seen. Castle Crag is conspicuous in the valley. Mosedale, between Yewbarrow and Kirkfell, has the appearance of an immense coom. In the north-west are a series of hills, the principal of which are, Causey Pike, Grisedale Pike, Maiden Mawr, Hindscarth, and Robinson. Then come the Buttermere and Crummock mountains, with Grassmoor conspicuously visible. Nearer are the Pillar, Hay Cock, High Stile, and Red Pike. Westward, the eye sinks into the depths of Wastdale, round which are piled Kirkfell, Yewbarrow, Seatallan, and Buckbarrow, but the hamlet of Wastdale Head is hidden by Lingmell. The Irish Sea bounds the whole western horizon and over the extremity of the vale of Wast Water the Isle of Man can be sometimes perceived.

HELVELLYN.

This mountain is more widely known by name than any other amongst the lakes, partly from its easiness of access, and its proximity to a turnpike road, over which coaches pass daily within a mile and a half of the summit, and partly in connexion with a melancholy accident which some years ago befell a stranger upon it, whose fate the verses of Wordsworth and Scott have contributed to make universally lamented. It stands the highest of a long chain of hills, at the angle formed by the vales of Grasmere, Legberthwaite, and Patter

dale, about half way between Keswick and Ambleside. From its central position and great altitude, it commands an extensive map-like view of the whole Lake district, no fewer than six lakes being visible from its summit, whilst the circumjacent mountains present themselves in fine arrangement. Its height is 3055 feet above the level of the sea, being something more than a hundred feet lower than Scawfell Pike, and higher than Skiddaw by thirty-three feet. Its geological structure is slate in one part and in another a flinty porphyry.

The ascent of Helvellyn can be effected from several quarters. Grasmere, Legberthwaite, Wythburn, and Patterdale, severally afford advantageous points for the commencement of the escalade; the two latter, however, lying in diametrically opposite directions, are the places where it is usually begun. It may be well perhaps to mention that ponies can be used for a great portion of the way if the lowland be quitted at Grasmere or Patterdale, a facility of which none of the other paths will admit. The ascent from Wythburn, though the shortest, is the steepest. A guide can be procured at the little inn which stands near the chapel, but as the path is easily discovered without his assistance, many persons will feel inclined to dispense with this restraint upon their motions and conversation. The path, which begins to ascend almost at the inn door, will be pointed out by the people of the inn. spring called, Brownrigg's Well, issuing from the ground within three hundred yards of the summit, sends out a stream, which, after rushing violently down the mountain's side, crosses the highway 200 or 300 yards from the Horse's Head at Wythburn. By keeping the direction of this stream without tracing its windings, the stranger may rely upon being safely guided, for Helvellyn Man is a little to the left, at the distance we have mentioned, above its source. In the ascent a small sheet of water called Harrop Tarn, will be seen on a shelf of rock under Tarn Crag, a lofty

precipice on the opposite side of the receding valley. The scars, seams, and ravines,

"the history of forgotten storms

On the blank folds inscribed of drear Helvellyn." *

which indent the mountain on all sides, strikingly exemplify the possible power of those elements whose ordinary effects are trivial and unnoticed.

From Patterdale the glens of Grisedale and Glenridding may be either of them used as approaches to Helvellyn. If the tourist choose, he may ride on horseback to a point within half an hour's climb of the summit. In case no guide is taken, the last-mentioned glen is to be preferred, as the stream flowing through it, which has its rise in the Red Tarn, will form a useful companion up the mountain. This tarn lies 600 feet immediately below the highest elevation, fenced in on the south-east by a ridge of rock called Striding Edge, and on the north-west by a similar barrier called Swirrel Edge. Catchedecam, or Catstycam, the termination of the latter, must be ascended, and the ridge crossed in order to attain the object of the climber's ambition. Although the path along this ridge may be somewhat startling, there is no real danger to be apprehended. Sometimes, from mistake or foolhardiness, Striding Edge is taken, but this is at once appalling and perilous, for at one part the path is not more than two yards broad, with a tremendous precipice on either side. It was at this spot that Charles Gough met with the accident which caused his death.† The Edge being passed, little exertion is required to place the weary pedestrian by the side of Helvellyn Man-as the pile

*HARTLEY COLERIDGE.

†This unfortunate "young lover of nature" attempted to cross Helvellyn from Patterdale, one day in the spring of 1805, after a fall of snow had partially concealed the path, and rendered it dangerous. It could never be ascertained whether he was killed by his fall, or perished from hunger. Let us hope that death came with friendly care to shorten sufferings that might have been yet more awful. Three months elapsed before the body was found, and then it was

of stones on the summit is called-thence to gaze on the wonderful display of mountains and lakes which everywhere surround him. This Man, and that on a lower elevation, to the north, form the separating landmarks between Cumberland and Westmorland. And now as to the view, and the multitudinous objects within its range: Northwards, Keppel Cove Tarn is perceived, having on the right Catchedecam. Beyond the extremity of the tarn, Saddleback rears its huge form, a little to the left of which is Skiddaw. Between the two, and in the north-west, a portion of the Solway Firth is descried, and the extreme distance is bounded by the Scottish mountains. Turning eastwards, Red Tarn below its "huge nameless rock," lies between Swirrel Edge on the left and Striding Edge on the right. Beyond is the crooked form of Ulleswater, on the left margin of which are Gowbarrow Park and Stybarrow Crag, whilst the right is bounded by the dwindled precipices of Place Fell, Beck Fell, and Swarth Fell. Halsteads, Mr. Marshall's seat, may be observed, and in the distance Cross Fell stands out against the sky. Angle Tarn is a bright spot beyond Patterdale. Kidsty Pike, High Street, and Hill Bell, are seen in the east over Striding Edge. Kirkstone, Fairfield, and Grisedale Pike are more to the south.

attended by a faithful dog which Mr. Gough had with him at the time of the accident.

"This dog had been through three months' space

A dweller in that savage place;

Yes-proof was plain, that since the day

On which the traveller thus had died,

The dog had watch'd about the spot

Or by his master's side:

How nourish'd there through such long time,

He knows, who gave that love sublime,
And gave that strength of feeling great
Above all human estimate."

Thus is this striking instance of brute fidelity commemorated by Wordsworth. Scott's lines commencing, "I climb'd the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn," are too well known to be quoted at length. The remains of the stranger now peacefully repose in the place of interment connected with the Friends' Meeting-House at Tirrel.

A portion of Windermere is seen over the last-named hill, whilst in a clear atmosphere Lancaster Castle can be descried beyond Windermere. Esthwaite water is directly south, and beyond is the sea in the Bay of Morecambe. In the south-west the Old Man stands guarding the right shore of Coniston Lake. On the right is the assemblage of hills termed Coniston Fells, whilst Black Combe, beheld through Wrynose Gap, lifts its dreary summit in the distance. Bowfell and Langdale Pikes are more to the west, having on the left Scawfell Pikes and Scawfell, and on the right Great Gable. The " gorgeous pavilions" of the Buttermere mountains are pitched in the west, amongst which the Pillar and Grasmoor are prominent. Cat Bells are visible, though Derwentwater, upon the west margin of which they stand, is hidden. Our old acquaintance Honister Crag may be seen in a hollow, a little to the left of Cat Bells. From the Lower Man views of Thirlemere and Bassenthwaite Lake are commanded, both of which are concealed by a breast of the mountain from those on the Highest Man.

SKIDDAW.

As this mountain stands at the head of an extensive valley, apart from the adjacent eminences, its huge bulk and great height are more strikingly apparent than those of the two former, although of inferior altitude to either of them. It is extremely easy of access, so much so, that ladies may ride on horseback from Keswick to the summit, a distance of six miles. According to the Government surveyors, its height is 3022 feet above the sea; upon one part of it granite is to be found, but the great mass of this mountain, as well as of Saddleback, is composed of a dark schistose stone. It is seldom ascended from any other place but Keswick, at which town every thing necessary for the expedition will be furnished. The Penrith road must be pursued for

« AnteriorContinua »