Imatges de pàgina
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uttered by every lip. Marina was the theme of every caf,e every street, every square.

"How unlike Gambrica!" was the ungrateful exclamation.

"Ah! poverina, she has had her day," cried one. "She was good, but she is terribly passée," said another.

"For me," cried a third, "I always knew she was overrated."

"A sun-flower by the rose," said a fourth. "Too large-too round-too tall-too heavy-her hair too black, her eyes no softness," added a fifth.

"Then," said the first, "how over-dramatic! We are cloyed with a style too studied and voluptuous. Nature is too elaborately improved upon. Nothing is left to itself. She may be the first of her school, but the school of Marina is the first. Did you observe her attitude last night when she drew the dagger ?"

"Yes, a fishwoman going to fight."

"She is a great singer, though," ventured a little dandy who had not heard Marina.

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Certainly, very great; but then she is always the

same."

"And what horrid faces!"

These strictures were general. They were the first that Gambrica had ever encountered. They fell on her heart like lava.

Again the night came and the theatre was besieged by an enthusiastic throng. Equipage after equipage dashed up. Party after party of bewildering faces and dazzling shoulders hastened in. Each seat was filled, the aisles were crowded, the lobbies overflowed; all the nobility, fashion, science, and loveliness, fortunate enough to

A MODEL "ASSISTANT."-A Dublin mercer, recom mending a piece of silk to a lady for a gown, said, “Madam, it will wear for ever, and make a petticoat AFTERWARDS."

A HARD HEART.-"I am afraid of the lightning,' murmured a pretty woman, during a thunder-storm. "Well you may," sighed a desperate adorer, "when heart is steel." your

WHO WROTE IT?-The following verse contains every letter in the English alphabet except "E." It is a question whether any other English rhymes can be produced (in print) without the letter "E," which is a letter employed more than any other :—

"A jovial swain may rack his brain,
And tax his fancy's might

To quiz in vain, for 'tis most plain
That what I say is right."

Mr. Money, a little dapper man was dancing at the York assembly with a tall lady of the name of Bond; on which Sterne said, "There was a great bond for a little money."

A lad delivering milk, was asked what made it so warm. "I don't know," replied he with much simplicity, "unless they put in warm water instead of cold.”

INDIA AND BRITISH SHAWLS CLEANED, the Brilliancy of the Colours preserved, and dressed by French process, making them look equal to new. Dresses and Cloaks cleaned without picking to pieces. Black dyed for mourning every Wednesday, and returned in a few days, when required. Bed furniture and Drawing Room suites cleaned, dyed, and finished in the most approved method, by

secure places, were assembled. Sounds of impatience SAMUEL OSMOND AND CO., DYERS,

arose. Never had there been a more brilliant audience.

(To be continued.)

DURKEE'S green moUNTAIN VEGETABLE OINTMENT.

A SOVEREIGN, SAFE, AND SPEEDY REMEDY FOR RHEUMATISM, GOUT, NEURALGIA, TIC-DOULOUREUX, INFLAMMATION of the Chest and Bowels, WHITE SWELLINGS, Glandular, and all other unnatural SWELLINGS, SCROFULOUS SORES, CHILBLAINS, BURNS, SCALDS AND BURNS, INFLAMMATION OF THE EYES, BROKEN BREASTS AND SORE NIP. PLES, FISTULA, BOILS AND PILES, FRESH-CUT WOUNDS, Injuries resulting from Domestic Accidents or Mechanical Violence, Old and Inveterate Ulcers, frequently superseding the use of leeches, the lancet, the knife, and drastic purgatives,-always performing well its part in relieving a vast amount of human suffering, in a manner the most simple, inexpensive, and efficacious.

It has already proved an invaluable boon to thousands of the human family in various parts of the globe, establishing itself as a favourite in every clime, and earning a well-deserved reputation as one of the best family medicines on record. See Medical and other Vouchers.

This Ointment is sold in Pots, at 1s. 13d., 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d., and 11s. each, by Barclay and Sons, Farringdon Street; Sanger, 150, Oxford Street; and all respectable Chemists and Medicine Venders throughout the kingdom.

Particular directions accompany each pot of the Ointment. Wholesale Agents, by appointment, Preston and Sons, 94, Smithfield Bars, London.

Sole Proprietors, BLAKE and CO., 529, NEW OXFORD STREET, LONDON.

8, IVY LANE, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON. ESTABLISHED ABOVE A CENTURY.

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TO PROFESSOR HOLLOWAY,

SIR,-At the age of 18 my wife (who is now 61) caught a violent cold, which settled in her legs, and ever since that time they have been more or Jess sore, and greally inflamed. Her agonies were distracting, and for months together she was deprived entirely of rest and sleep. Every remedy that medical men advised was tried, but without effect; her health suffered severely, and the state of her legs was terrible. Í had often read your Advertisements, and advised her to try your Pills and Ointment; and, as a last resource, after every other remedy had proved useless, she consented to do so. She commenced six weeks ago, and strange to relate, is now in good health. Her legs are painless, without seam or scar, and her sleep sound and undisturbed. Could you have witnessed the sufferings of my wife during the last 43 years, and contrast them with her present enjoyment of health, you would indeed feel delighted in having been the means of so greatly alleviating the sufferings of a fellow creature.

(Signed)

WILLIAM GALPIN.

Sold by the Proprietor, 244, Strand, near Temple Bar, London, and by all respectable Vendors of Patent Medicines throughout the civilized World, in pots and boxes, at 1s. 1d., 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d., 118., 228., and 33s. each. There is a very considerable saving in taking the larger sizes.

N.B.-Directions for the guidance of Patients are affixed to

each pot or box.

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FROM

OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

CHERE AMIE,

JANUARY, 1853.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, December 27th, 1852.

THE efforts so long making to introduce short waists have not succeeded; the bodies of evening dresses will continue of the same length that they have so long been worn; but the forms of bodies worn some years since are likely to be revived; we particularly allude to those in fulness or drapery from the shoulders to the centre, formed in the material; the sleeves of evening dresses continue very small; the waistcoat form is also introduced in evening dress, by the adoption of revers descending on each side, the body terminating in a point with tassels. A very elegant style for ball dresses is of satin, with deep bouillons of tulle at the bottom, headed by numerous small roses, and a skirt of tulle covering the whole gives an aerial transparency that is highly effective, and softens the colours of both satin and flowers; the sleeves are of similar character. The Watteau style is still preserved, with its open body and centre-piece covered by bows of ribbon; and sometimes a berthe encircles the shoulders and back; the Grecian is also a pretty form of body, with its handsome brooches confining the folds on the shoulders and in front; but very youthful ladies replace these brooches by more simple ornaments-a small sprig of flowers, a bow of ribbon, &c. Some are made of the square form, with very narrow shoulder-straps, and full from the shoulder, meeting under the bows placed in the middle, with round waist, ribbon ceinture, and long ends; the shoulder-straps are very narrow; the sleeves short and bouffant, formed by one or two bouillons. Some bodies are made with large folds or plaits of the material, confined in a narrow space at the point, and, widening off, terminate in the narrow shoulder-strap; a berthe of lace may be added, or the body finished by a gimp or cord, and narrow lace standing up inside.

Very pretty evening dresses are of light-coloured glacé silks, with flounces of black guipure, sometimes two of considerable width, the lower one being looped up by bands of ribbon, terminating with a small bunch of velvet flowers: the

VOL. 26.

body a little full, in the fan form, with berthe of black lace and small bouffant sleeves, ceinture of rich ribbon round the waist, with large bow and ends in front; others are with double skirts, the upper one being open at each side, united in the centre by a bunch of flowers, the whole ornamented by a gimp intermixed with gold; ceinture of the same material as the dress. Flounces are still much worn on evening dresses, and many are of the style à disposition, with pattern or design assorting to each part of the dress; the sleeves in full dress are worn very short, and many of them are full and bouffant.

Morning and walking dresses continue to be made with amazon or plain high bodies; some, however, are full, and cross over at the waist, with ceinture, which is quite a revival of the fashions of twenty years since; with this style the skirt is also ornamented down the side; others are trimmed in the Brandenbourg style, some with jackets at the waist, and revers or waistcoats; the sleeves are decidedly shorter.

Novelties in gimp trimmings are daily appearing in great beauty and richness; they are many of them of a more solid description, and are much used to trim the cloaks, Talmas and jackets, forming rather wide rich bands of moire, embroidery, stamped velvet, gimp, &c. At this season of the year fur also forms a suitable and elegant trimming.

There is considerable variety in the make of sleeves; those with deep cuffs are much worn, and many of the newest are with wristbands, and rather short, admitting the lace frills and bracelet below the band; some again are joined as the sleeves of gentlemen's coats, but left open from the elbow; others are very tight on the upper part of the arm, but fall on the white under-sleeve in loose open points or tabs; but all are worn rather shorter: one was tight on the upper part of the arm, then a full bouillon terminating with a frill forming a pagoda; all have white embroidered sleeves under, which relieve the dark dresses, as much as they add to the elegance of all.

Cloth of a very fine soft texture is much used in cloaks and Talmas for morning wear; large shawl cloaks are also made of it, ornamented by a band of velvet, pluche, moire, &c. and often looped up on the arms. Young persons wear the Talmas of lighter-coloured cloths, and often ornamented by bands of velvet or moire, of green, deep blue, &c. Redingotes with jacket bodies form pretty walking dresses with Talmas of the same colour and material. Children also wear Talmas of

cloth, forming a large cape for boys; they should be deeper than for young ladies, and fasten up the front with Brandenbourgs, trimmed with broad braid.

Bonnets are still worn small but open, and the crowns receding; drawn bonnets in wide bouillons are very much in favour, particularly in velvets, and the open lace edges still continue; there is, however, full latitude allowed to adapt the bonnet to the style and taste of the wearer. Some bonnets

of black velvet have rows of lace on them worked in chenille ; some are placed on the front, others on the crown; pretty ones are also formed of alternate folds of Terry velvet and satin edged by a blond. Feathers are much in favour, but small, and frequently they are placed on each side.

But at this moment we can look for little change in this part of our toilette; a few more weeks, and spring, with all its attractions of nature and art, will again bring novelty in every department.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire and pardessus of cloth, trimmed with a deep fringe, and tassels at the points formed in the pardessus, headed by four rows of velvet, taking the same form. Capote of green velvet, lined with white satin. Child's Dress-Frock of popeline, and pardessus of velvet, trimmed with ermine; bonnet of green pluche, with small feathers at each side.

Walking Dress.-Robe of moire with jacket-body, and pardessus of silk, trimmed with bands of ribbon. Bonnet of pink Terry velvet, and lace intermixed in the nœuds.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with flounces scolloped at the edge. Mantelet shawl of ruby velvet, trimmed with a broad lace: a narrower one forms revers all down the front. Capote of drawn silk, confined by narrow bands of velvet; flower at the side, with velvet foliage.

Walking Dress.-Robe of moire, with high body, open in front. Mantelet of cloth, forming point in front, and fastening up to the throat with small buttons; velvet bonnet with feathers, and wreath of flowers inside.

PLATE II.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of checked popeline, with_cazaweck or jacket body. Manteau of glacé silk, wadded and quilted, with deep fringe round the bottom. Capote of velvet and black lace, with feathers.

Evening Dress.-Robe of broché silk; the body is open to the waist, with berthe or revers of guipure lace narrowing to the waist, where it terminates with noeud and short ends; short sleeves with lace frill. Head-dress, composed of ribbon and small flowers.

Morning Dress.-Robe of pink popeline, with open jacket body, trimmed with fullings of ribbon; the sleeves are rather short, trimmed, as the body and jacket, which is open on the hips; the skirt is also ornamented with plissés of ribbon guimpe of spotted tulle, with ruche round the throat; small lace cap with flowers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of dark blue silk, with spots of velvet ornamenting the front of the skirt; and also the high body in the Brandenbourg style, and the bottom of the pagoda sleeves. Bonnet of currant-coloured velvet, lined with white, and lace edge.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with flounces in a deep scollop, and manteau also of cachemire, trimmed round the edge by a band of moire. Bonnet of black Terry velvet, with lace edge, lined with pink satin and wreath of pink flowers encircling the face.

PLATE III.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, the skirt covered with

flounces, and jacket body trimmed with rich fringe. Bonnet of pink Terry velvet.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of popeline of the redingote form. Mantelet shawl of cachemire, trimmed with black lace, and several rows of narrow velvet above; the hood lined with ruby satin, and trimmed with lace. Capote of Terry velvet in bouillons, with small white feathers at the sides.

Ball Dress.-Robe of straw-coloured Terry velvet; the body is pointed with double berthe of black lace, and bunch of gera. niums in the centre and on the sleeves; the skirt is plain. Head-dress of hair in bandeaux, with wreath of clematis.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with open body, and short pagoda sleeves. Mantelet of taffetas trimmed with pink frills of the same. Bonnet of velvet and satin, lined with cerise.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with bands of velvet wove in the material forming border round the_bottom, and ornamenting the body and sleeves. Manteau of Terry velvet, with cape and large sleeves, trimmed all round with black lace. Capote of silk in bouillons, trimmed with velvet edged by a ruche.

PLATE IV.

Young Lady's Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire with open jacket body. Pardessus of fine cloth, with large sleeves, trimmed all round with a band of embossed velvet. Capote of velvet and satin.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of popeline, and paletot of cloth trimmed with bands of black velvet; bonnet of pluche lined with silk.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of figured silk, with open jacket body and waistcoat; the skirt has two rows of black lace rising up the sides; the body and sleeves are trimmed to correspond. Capote of velvet and guipure.

Walking Dress.-Robe of moire, and manteau of fine cloth, trimmed with a band of moire. Bonnet of velvet and satin, with feathers at the sides.

Carriage Dress-Robe of glacé silk; the skirt is covered with flounces, ornamented by a scroll of narrow velvet; the body is open, with frills as on the skirt; and the pagoda sleeves also terminate with three frills. Bonnet of velvet, with open edge; feathers at the sides, and velvet flowers in the cap.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of taffetas, ornamented up the centre by foliage and stems of velvet, which, in diminished form, also ornaments the body and sleeves. Mantelet of black velvet, trimmed all round with a broad band of sable fur, Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, with open edge.

PLATE V.

Cloak of blue satin trimmed with velvet of the same colour, and lined with white silk.

First bonnet of fancy straw and green ribbon. Second bonnet, of black velvet, with a pink feather on each side; flowers and strings of the same colour.

Third bonnet, of purple silk and black lace; strings and lining of white satin.

Fourth bonnet, of black satin, trimmed with lace and flowers; strings and lining of primrose colour.

The last one is of white Terry velvet, with cap of black lace and rosettes of narrow red velvet; strings of white, edged with red; sleeves of lace and cambric.

First cap, of lace trimmed with scarlet ribbon. Second cap, of worked muslin, with pink and black velvet trimmings.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

THE question of sleeves is always a matter of moment; we thought therefore, that we could not offer a more acceptable model than that of two sleeves of totally different styles; the

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