portico on the east side, and the doors to the several | St. Mary's Wynd, and a long crooked street called corridors lie around the quadrangle. There is a covered gallery or ambulatory round part of the court. Within the building the apartments are very numerous. One is a library, nearly 200 feet in length, and contains about 100,000 volumes; it was intended originally "for the use of the citizens," but it has now become exclusively a College Library. The Museum, occupying several galleries and apartments, comprises a collection of stuffed animals, birds, insects, shells, minerals, and other objects: it is at present undergoing repairs and improvements which will make it a valuable depository of natural objects. The various class-rooms, council-rooms, private apartments, &c., call for no note. The funds for constructing this vast and important building were collected in a curious way. King James VI. granted a charter for a University, in 1582; and by subsequent grants and benefactions this University became large and celebrated throughout Europe. The buildings forming it were added from time to time, as occasion offered, until at last they formed an incongruous and unsightly mass. In 1789 the Town Council resolved to build a new one; and to show their respect for learning, they undertook to defray the expense out of the town funds. But they utterly overrated their means: the town revenues and local subscriptions combined could only finish part of the front in twenty years. The Government then stepped in; and by the expenditure of £10,000 a year for many years, the present fine building was finished. Two thousand students are generally located here during the terms, and it need hardly be said how brilliant has been the list of eminent men who owed their education to this institution. At the commencement of the present century it contained within its academic walls, at one time, Robertson, Playfair, Black, Cullen, Robison, Blair, Dugald Stuart, Gregory, and Monro: a constellation of 'lights' not readily equalled elsewhere. Nearly opposite the College is Surgeon's Hall,-a much smaller but still beautiful building, having a Grecian front of much elegance and simplicity. The chief feature of this institution is a Museum of anatomical and surgical preparations, of considerable extent. This Museum, as indeed most of the public buildings and institutions of Edinburgh, is conducted in a liberal spirit with regard to affording access to the townsmen and visitors. Near the Hall is one of those benevolent and interesting charities-a Blind School. The baskets, and rugs, and mats, and similar objects, made by the boys; the tippets, and gloves, and other articles of needlework made by the girls; the schoolroom, with its globes, maps, and books, all having raised characters which may be traced by the fingers of the poor sightless students-these cannot be seen without exciting warm admiration of a system which has done so much good with such slender means. Eastward of the main north and south avenue, of which Nicholson Street forms a part, is another, much narrower and much more poverty-stricken, formed by Pleasance. This was evidently at one time a place of no small importance; for the old maps of Edinburgh represent it as forming a main artery into Edinburgh from the south. Eastward of this Pleasance, the strip of inhabited district is very narrow before we come to the roads and paths that lie at the western foot of Salisbury Crag; and the streets, the houses and the inhabitants are mostly of a humble character. Southward of the whole of this South Town of Edinburgh is a pleasant open country, occupied by meadows and Bruntsfield Links or Playgrounds, backed by Braid Hill further south. As our perambulations have, for a second time, brought us to the vicinity of Arthur's Seat, we may fittingly here describe the noble hills which bound Edinburgh on the east. While walking along the back of Canongate, or the Pleasance, or St. Leonard's Street, we see Salisbury Crag shooting up like a wall to the east and southeast of us. It is a kind of triangular rock, extending south-west to a sharp point, and then branching off south-east. The highest summit is near this sharp western point, from whence it declines in altitude towards the south-east and the north-east. The rock presents a steep sloping grassy ascent to a certain height, above which is a perpendicular crag of bare rock, forming an object whose outline is remarkably distinct and well defined as seen from a distance. A pathway runs along the whole extent, at the top of the slope, and just beneath the perpendicular crag. Eastward of this crag is a gentle slope leading down to a valley called the Hunter's Bog, on the opposite side of which is Arthur's Seat. The whole of this cragthe summit, the high path, the lower path nearer to St. Leonard's-was a favourite resort of Scott's. In his notes to the tale which has made this almost classic ground, he says:-"If I were to choose a spot from which the rising or setting sun could be seen to the greatest advantage, it would be that wild path winding around the foot of the high belt of semicircular rocks called Salisbury Crag, and marking the verge of the steep descent which slopes down into the glen on the south-eastern side of the city of Edinburgh. The prospect, in its general outline, commands a closebuilt, high-piled city, stretching itself out in a form, which, to a romantic imagination, may be supposed to represent that of a dragon, now a noble arm of the sea, with its rocks, isles, distant shores, and boundary of mountains; and now a fair and fertile champaign country, varied with hill, dale, and rock, and skirted by the picturesque ridge of the Pentland Mountains. But as the path gently circles around the base of the cliffs, the prospect, composed as it is of those enchanting and sublime objects, changes at every step, and presents them blended with or divided from each other, in every possible variety which can gratify the eye and the imagination. When a piece of scenery so beautiful, yet so varied-so exciting by its intricacy, and yet so sublime—is lighted up by the tints of morning or of evening, and displays all that variety of shadowy depth, exchanged with partial brilliancy, which gives character even to the tamest of landscapes; the effect approaches near to enchantment. This path used to be my favourite evening and morning resort when engaged with a favourite author or new subject of study." It is from this elevated spot that our view (Cut, No. 1,) is taken. Lofty as these crags are, they yield the superiority to Arthur's Seat, which lies behind them on the east. Sometimes this name is given to the highest summit alone, while at other times it is applied to the whole hilly group, with the hollows beneath them. Extending over a space about a mile in length by threequarters of a mile in width, are many of these alternations of hill and dale, to which are given the names of Arthur's Seat, Whiny Hill, Crow Hill, Hawk Hill, Nether Hill, Sampson's Ribs, Echoing Rock, Salisbury Crag, and Hunter's Bog. The whole series is now encircled by a splendid carriage-drive, called Victoria Road; than which, perhaps, there is nothing finer of the kind in the kingdom. Commencing beneath the westerly point of Salisbury Crag, it proceeds around the entire hilly group in an irregular oval course, nearly three miles and a half in extent. step a changing view meets the eye. It is everywhere higher than the surrounding country, so that a complete panorama is ready for him who will make the circuit. Much of the road was formed by blasting the solid rock; and at the south-eastern part of the course this blasting has taken place at a considerable elevation. Duddingston Loch and Dunsapie Loch lie spread out beneath us, and the whole country for miles presents a rich and fertile view to the sight. This Victoria Road has been mostly constructed since the Queen's visit in 1842, and, we believe, at the royal expense. At every Arthur's Seat itself, the summit which gives name to the whole group, lies toward the southern part of the encircling road. Who Arthur was, where he lived, and how he came to occupy this 'Seat,' are mysteries beyond the power of the nineteenth century to solve. England, Wales, and Scotland have all been busy in finding out occupations and favourite localities for this renowned hero. There is Arthur's Fountain in Clydesdale; Dumbarton Castle is supposed to have been Arthur's Castle in early times; there was also Arthur's Palace near Penryn-Ryoneth in Wales; Stirling Castle was supposed, in the middle ages, to have been the festive scene of Arthur's Round Table; Arthur's Oven is on the Carron; in Cupar Angus is a stone called Arthur's Stone; while there are no less than three Arthur's Seats-one near Loch Long, one in Forfarshire, and the more celebrated one which now engages our notice. This summit is 822 feet above the level of the sea. It is so steep that there are only two paths by which it can be readily ascended. At the top is a black mass of basaltic rock, found to be magnetic; and on this is fixed the Signal-staff used by the Ordnance-officers in conducting the trigonome trical survey of Scotland. It is the highest spot within a distance of many miles, and from it may be obtained. a view of great magnificence. Beneath is the Old Town of Edinburgh, crowned in the back-ground by the Castle; on the left of this is the South Town, with Heriot's Hospital shooting up in the distance; on the right is the splendid New Town, with its squares and streets of white stone buildings: "Yonder the shores of Fife you saw; Here Preston-Bay, and Berwick Law; Like emeralds chased in gold." The vicinity of the lofty hill is speckled over with many interesting spots. The Hunter's Bog is a deep grass-grown valley intervening between Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crag. When the Young Pretender, as Charles Stuart is frequently called, entered Edinburgh in 1745, he left the bulk of his troops in Hunter's Bog, while he and a chosen few proceeded to Holyrood to reconnoitre the state of affairs. Immediately at the foot of Salisbury Crag is the suburb of St. Leonard's, and a pathway called Dumbiedykes-two names that will not soon be forgotten by the readers of the 'Heart of Midlothian.' Then, by the side of the small road leading from St. Leonard's to Duddingston, is a small old house, said to have been the one which Scott had in his mind as a residence for David Deans, the father of Jeannie and Effie: at all events, such is now the tradition; and in some modern maps it receives, without any circumlocution, the designation of ' David Dean's House.' Passing round to the north of Arthur's Seat, we find St. Anthony's Well and Chapel. (Cuts, Nos. 7 and 8.) The crumbling ruins of the latter stand out prominently on a craggy rock, at a considerable height from the valley below, in a most picturesque situation. The building was once a hermitage or chapel, dedicated to St. Anthony the Eremite. The water of the well had certain mystic virtues ascribed to it in past times; and even at present, the visitor is invited to drink some of it from tin cups proffered to him by the juveniles who hope to make a profit of old St. Anthony. Near this chapel is the place pointed out as the site on which once stood Mushet's Cairn. Nicol Mushet, or Muschat, murdered his wife on this spot under circumstances of great barbarity some generations ago; and the travellers who passed by, to mark their execration of the deed, each threw a stone or two on the spot, by which a heap or cairn of stones was collected. Scott makes this Cairn a meeting-place between Jeannie Deans and Robertson on the dreadful night before Effie's trial; and if the tourist at the present day is of easy faith, the self-appointed work of art it is not worthy of mention, but its 'guides' to the lions of Arthur's Seat will point out to him a heap of stones as the veritable Cairn itself, although the aforesaid heap is marvellously near to an open and frequented road. Exactly north-westward of Arthur's Seat stands another of the many hills which render Edinburgh such a remarkable city, viz. the Calton Hill. This is a rounded eminence, forming the eastern extreme of the New Town, and rising to a height of 345 feet above the level of the sea. It is more steep in its elevation towards Edinburgh than towards any other side, and from its summit one of the most beautiful views of the city can be obtained. Burford, the unequalled painter of panoramas, is said to have first conceived the idea of such paintings while viewing the scene from Calton Hill. (The same point of view has been chosen for the steel engraving placed at the head of this article.) Towards the east, north-east, and south-east, the hill descends gently to the level of the surrounding plain. A portion of its eastern slope is laid out in gardens; and around these gardens, having a look-out towards the higher part of the hill, are some fine terraces and rows of houses, partaking of the palatial character which so distinguishes New Edinburgh. The summit or rounded height of the hill is diversely occupied. It forms a sort of honorary cemetery. One of the objects is a monument to Dugald Stuart, modelled after the choragic monument of Lysicrates in Greece; another is a monument to Professor Playfair; another is the Astronomical Observatory. The loftiest object is the Nelson Column this consists of a shaft springing from an octagonal base; it has a sort of refreshment-room at the bottom, and a look-out gallery at the top. As a elevated position gives it a very commanding view, not only over the surrounding country, but across the Firth of Forth to Fifeshire. A project has been recently started for making it serviceable to ships out at sea, by the adoption of a time-ball,' similar to that used at Greenwich Observatory; such a ballsay four or five feet in diameter-if let drop at a given instant of time, determined by astronomical observations, serves as a guide to captains of ships in adjusting their chronometers before departing on a voyage: the Greenwich time-ball can be seen from the Thames, and the Calton Hill time-ball would be visible from the Firth of Forth. But the most notable structure on this elevated hill is one which might have been honourable to Scotland, if some prudence had marked its plan and conduct: as it is, it is a laughingstock. We allude to the National Monument. At the conclusion of the last war a project was started for erecting a monument to the memory of the Scottish heroes who fell at Waterloo. It was to be a copy of the Parthenon at Athens; but so wofully did the constructors miscalculate their means, that they expended all the subscribed funds in building twelve columns, which now stand isolated, resting on a stylobate beneath, and supporting a portion of entablature above; it consists simply of the pillars at one end of the temple: the rest is-nowhere! A deep valley separates the Calton Hill from the New or North Town, and as this valley is connected with the north valley between the New and the Old Towns, we may continue our ramble by threading our way along these two valleys, from east to west: this will prepare us for an after examination of the splendours of the New Town. In the old Map of Edinburgh, before alluded to, we find this low ground thus appropriated :-North of Holyrood is a point of junction where three roads meet; one, called Abbey Hill, goes eastward towards Portobello and Musselburgh; another winds round the eastern margin of the Calton Hill, forming the eastern road to Leith; and the third extends southwestward towards the town. This latter, at a place called the Water Gate, divides into two: one branch ascending the old hill and forming the Canongate, the other keeping to the low ground on the north and forming the North Back of Canongate ;'-this latter road has for the most part gardens on its left or south side; while the north side is occupied by the lower portion of the ascent of Calton Hill, very sparingly dotted with buildings. At a point where the College Church then stood, the western road to Leith branches out to the north, round the western side of Calton Hill; while on the left commenced Leith Wynd, which ascended thence up the slope to the Nether Bow of the Old Town. Westward of these cross roads is a 'Physick Garden,' and a considerable amount of open space. Beyond the site of the present North Bridge comes the North Loch, an irregularly-shaped marshy spot, which extended thence throughout the remainder of the valley. With the exception of the markets, nearly all the ground on both sides of this Loch are occupied by gardens and fields. Such was the northern valley a century ago; but such it is no longer. The whole region, except some portions near Leith Wynd, has been metamorphosed. The east or Easter' road to Leith is still maintained; but instead of there being only one road from thence along the southern side of Calton Hill, there are two, a splendid new road having been cut half-way up the slope of the hill itself. This is called RegentRoad: on the north of it are rows of fine houses, called Regent Terrace and Carlton Place. South of the most elevated portion of the hill is a group of modern buildings, all very near each other; comprising the High School, the Jail, the Debtor's Jail, the Bridewell, the Governor's House, David Hume's Monument, and Robert Burns' Monument: all these being on a lower level than the Calton Hill, but on a higher than the North Back of Canongate, and having some architectural pretensions, impart rather a fine appearance to the locality. The High School is a very noble structure. As long ago as 1519 there was a High Grammar School belonging to the town; in 1578 a new school was constructed, and in 1777 a third; all of these were in the Old Town; but the growing requirements of the place led, in 1825, to the planning of a new and larger edifice on the southern slope of the Calton Hill; the expense, partly defrayed by subscription, has amounted to about £30,000; and the present edifice is certainly a great ornament to the town. It is built of fine white stone. It consists of a central part and two wings, extending to a length of 270 feet. The central portion of the front is a pediment advanced upon a range of Doric columns; but the end buildings are nearly flat-roofed. cious flight of steps leads up to the building from the enclosing wall in front. The front is rendered more striking by two temple-like lodges, which occupy the extreme ends, considerably in advance of the main portion of the building itself. The interior is fitted up with the hall, class-rooms, masters'-rooms, library, &c. It is essentially a classical school; but the range of study is made to embrace many branches of modern education. The fine road in which these buildings are situated opens into Waterloo Place, the superb eastern entrance into the New Town; but as we are at present engaged with the humbler locality of the North Valley, we postpone for a while our gossip about the New Town. The North Back of Canongate now consists mostly of poor dwellings, between and among which run up some of the narrow wynds that communicate with the Canongate. A workhouse, a gas-factory, and a few other large buildings, stand southward. This street ends at Low Calton, a street running nearly north and south, connecting Leith Walk on the north (winding round the western base of Calton Hill) with Leith Wynd in the south. Very soon after this we arrive at the North Bridge, stretching high over our heads from the Old to the New Town. Looking downwards from the parapets of this bridge, we see the busy hum of a series of markets below, and the still more stirring operations of three separate railway stations, all of which congregate in one spot. Looking upwards from the piers of the bridge, we see houses rising to an astonishing height on all sides. On the south they appear to be literally piled one on another, so steep is the ascent from the low ground to the High-street; while on the north, verging on the New Town, there are houses which present five or six flats or stories, communicating with a street-door on a lower level; and other houses of five or six stories built upon these, having an entrance on the level of the North Bridge. We may more correctly, perhaps, represent it thus: that near the ends of the bridge are houses of vast height; of which the ground story or flat is in the valley below, the fifth or sixth story is on a level with the bridge, and the tenth or twelfth story is-up in the clouds. Certainly we may range London from end to end, and find nothing to correspond with this. The nearest approach to similarity, perhaps, is afforded by the houses near the north and south ends of Waterloo-bridge. The markets—a remarkable series of them-lie immediately westward of the North Bridge. You see, on the lowest level, a vegetable-market; you mount a flight of steps, and come to a flesh-market; you mount another, going southward in both cases, and you meet with another flesh-market; twenty or thirty stone steps more bring you to a fourth market: and so you go on, climbing up the southern slope of the Old or Central Town by a series of flights of steps, and meeting with quadrangular market-places on the way, until at length you arrive by a narrow wynd in the High Street. How many scores of these steps there may be we have not had patience to reckon; but they serve remarkably well to illustrate the difference of level in the ground on which Edinburgh is built. Odd little nooks and corners meet the eye all around these markets. Houses stand on almost impossible places: their parlours are above the roofs of neighbouring houses, while they are in like manner overtopped by other houses only a few yards southward of them. As to whether the fronts of these houses are north, south, east,or west, it is in some cases difficult enough to guess; the builders seem to have poked them in at random, and to have left the inhabitants to exercise their ingenuity in obtaining access to them. In one of the wynds at this spot, called Fleshmarket Close, almost every house is a sort of tavern, as different as possible from the smart public-houses of London; these dark and oddly-shaped abodes seem to form the 'chophouses' of Edinburgh,-of which, by the way, there are but very few in the better streets and neighbourhoods. A Londoner, passing through the streets of Edinburgh and Glasgow, can hardly fail to remark the extreme paucity of butchers' shops in those cities. The occupation of a 'flesher,' as a butcher is there called, is almost exclusively confined to the markets; and, moreover, it must be admitted that the Scotch, man for man, do not eat so much meat as the English; and this is a second reason why a flesher's shop seldom meets the eye in the public streets. The railways join precisely at the spot to which the lowest of the markets brings us. Never, surely, was there so admirable a spot for a railway-station in the very heart of a city! It would seem as if Nature and society had both agreed on this matter: Nature made a deep hollow, running between two elevations; and society has left that hollow almost unoccupied, until the railroad times in which we live. The Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway had, a few years ago, a terminus at St. Leonard's, near Salisbury Crag; the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway had its terminus at the western extremity of the town; and the Edinburgh and Granton Railway terminated in Scotland-street, at the northern extremity of the town: but now all have joined. The North British line, into which the Dalkeith has become absorbed, enters Edinburgh by a tunnel under Calton Hill, and ends in the valley near the North Bridge; the Glasgow line is extended eastward from its former terminus, by a tunnel under the western part of the town, and meets the North British, end to end; while the Granton line (which also accommodates Leith) is carried southward by a tunnel under a long line of street, and meets the other two nearly at right angles. All the principal hotels, and the great centres of commercial activity, are very near this spot. If the hissing locomotive should at times disturb one's thoughts, and break the romance that hovers round the Castle Hill and Arthur's Seat, we must endeavour to find in the reality a compensation for this romance— or still better, we will combine the two. Westward of the railway-station is a sort of earthen road, called Waverley Bridge, elevated somewhat above the level of the valley, and forming a line of communication between the Old and New Towns. But still further westward is a much more anomalous sort of bridge,— one that the Edinburgh folks would gladly see superseded by a good bridge were it practicable. This is the Mound,' which forms a high level road from the Old to the New Towns. If we go back to the early history of this mound, we find the following, written by Maitland, in 1773 (History of Edinburgh') :— 6 |