border encircles the bottom of the jacket and sleeves; the border is three inches in depth, and is of a different coloured silk or crape to that of which the jacket is made, the embroidery being in gold, or various coloured silks. The trousers are exceedingly wide and long, being embroidered round the ankle, in a similar manner to the jacket border, but not to correspond or match with it either in colour or embroidery: the principal object considered, in the toilette of a Chinese elegante appears to be, the combination of as great a diversity of colours, and variety of embroidery as practicable, every article of attire being of a different colour: over the trousers the wife wears a rich satin petticoat very handsomely embroidered, which reaches to the heels; and this portion of the dress can only be worn by the wife, never being adopted, or permitted to be used, either by handmaids, or unmarried daughters of mandarins. The ladies do not wear stockings, but their ankles are bandaged either with red or black ribbon: the shoes have heels about an inch high, and the uppers are very elaborately embroidered in gold and silks, being bound round at the top with figured gold tinsel. Like the men, the females of all classes wear under their jackets a silken girdle, to which is invariably attached an embroidered bag, which contains their tobacco and pipe the fan is also in general use and requisition, and this article is either embroidered or made of painted feathers or silk, and is of an octagon, oblong, round, or pointed form, which does not fold up.

Although the ladies' dress is aught save becoming, affording no opportunity to display the form or

DRESS OF INFANTS AND CHILDREN.

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symmetry of the wearer, as the jacket is perfectly loose at the waist, being fastened closely around the throat; still, from the diversity and brilliancy both of material and embroidery, the toût ensemble of the costume is pleasing.

Infants and children, of all classes, are invariably dressed in jackets and trousers, the materials being the only variation, which are always in accordance with the wealth of the parents. Male children have their heads shaved, leaving two circular spots of hair, one on each side of the head, before the ears; this is allowed to grow, and is then plaited into tails. At eight years of age the hair is permitted to grow on the crown of the head, the remaining portion being closely shaved; the hair is then plaited into a tail, as soon as the hair is sufficiently long. The hair of the female children is allowed to grow when they are two years of age; it is then drawn from the face, and plaited into a tail at the back of the head: at eight years of age, the hair is turned up (that is the technical expression used by ladies), being dressed in innumerable bows at the top of their little pates, and decorated with flowers and ornaments of all descriptions. The Chinese have a great dislike to innovation or change in their laws, customs, or costume; all that is ancient, or been adopted by their ancestors is, in their estimation, good and perfect, therefore the national dress never varies their fashions never change.

The Chinese, like all eastern nations, attach great value to sumptuous clothing, and a display of jew

ellery; but there is not a nation in the universe which respects the accompaniments of wealth, rank, and station, as do the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire.

HOUSES OF THE MANDARINS.

319

CHAPTER XVIII.

Dwellings of the Chinese-Houses of the Mandarins and wealthy-The Hall of Ancestors-Coffins-Library-Reception rooms-Furniture— Taste for articles of vertu-Jaed-stone sceptres-Sleeping apartments -Grounds-Mode of laying them out-Abodes of the middle and poorer classes.

THE houses of the higher classes, who reside in cities, are built within walled enclosures; whilst those who live in the suburbs or country, occupy the centre of their grounds, the gardens of which are laid out in a most grotesque manner. The abode of a mandarin, is invariably a collection of buildings of various sizes, which are devoted to several purposes; such as offices for the servants, smoking-rooms, summer-houses, theatre, and the largest is the dwelling-place of the family the roofs of all these buildings slope outwards and are supported by pillars, the gable ends of the roofs being ornamented with bells, and figures of bamboo and porcelain. The walls are usually built of bricks, which have a blue tint, and on these are frequently portrayed landscapes and figures, painted in brilliant colours, which produce a most pleasing effect. The interior of these residences are divided into numerous apartments, the largest being the Hall

of Ancestors, where stands the household shrine, on which joss is enthroned in great comfort and finery: the shrine being gaily decorated with artificial flowers and glittering tinsel, whilst the fumes of scented josssticks or incense, continually burning, ascend towards the idol's nostrils, regaling his olfactory nerves; family worship is here performed at stated periods of the day, and we have been informed that frequently joss is chin-chined or worshipped, before any affair of importance, either of business, or of a domestic character is undertaken.

Ranged in regular order around this hall are a series of tablets, detailing the family history and pedigree, interspersed with selections from the ancient sages in this apartment, and at their tombs, the family burn offerings to the manes of their ancestors, on the respective anniversaries of their deaths. Here also the master of the house keeps his coffin, it being the custom for the head of every family to provide himself with his last domicile, when he first becomes a housekeeper; this usage prevails amongst all classes, from the highest to the lowest, the Emperor setting the example, by selecting his coffin on the day he ascends the throne. The coffins used by the higher orders and wealthy, are exceedingly costly, being ornamented, lacquered over, inlaid with mother-ofpearl, gilt, and painted; so great is the variety of prices at which they can be purchased, that the expense of a coffin, will vary from one hundred dollars to two thousand. These coffins are much larger than those used in Europe, the lids being of a semicircular form, on which is inscribed the name, pedi