persons is of that general nature to admit the introduction of foreigners. The English and Russian merchants, though on the best footing imaginable, carry on no other intercourse beyond commercial transactions. However, the real Russian merchant, or man of business, is not unmindful of the pleasure of associating with his equals; and even the most toilsome labour, or penurious disposition, leaves him some feeling for the pleasures of society. The Burgher's club is a proof of this propensity. The Americans have a club of their own: the English have also a club, or rather there is a club under that name; but in which Germans, as well as Russians, are admitted, and form a principal part of the members. I was introduced to it by Dr. Leighton, and dined there with him. The club consists of 350 members who are balloted for. Strangers to be introduced must have their names entered every day by one of the members; a regulation found so inconvenient, that but few avail themselves of this privilege. The house is commodious, but the rooms are neither so well furnished nor lighted up as in the clubs of London, or at Frankfort. Play is the principal source of amusement, but not to the total exclusion of more serious and rational ways of passing the time. All the Russian, and many of the foreign newspapers, among which I observed the English Courier, are taken in, together with some monthly publications; but the collection of books is trifling indeed. There is a regular house-dinner, à la Russe, every day, which is much frequented. Another club, known by the name of the Commercial Club, is daily open for the admission of merchants and strangers, on the English Quay, in which the attendance and the dinners are said to be much superior. Some of the English merchants, who frequent this club, have formed a very select and valuable library principally of English books, both of reference and general reading, which is placed under the care of Mr. Moberley, a very well-informed mercantile gentleman, partner to Mr. Anderson, the 66 doyen" by seniority, and the most respected of the English merchants in St. Petersburgh. The late Emperor Alexander never passed this genuine specimen of an old sterling English merchant without stopping to speak to him. There are a number of families among the population of St. Petersburgh forming, as it were, a class of society apart, which consists of free people, who belong neither to the Church, the nobility, the public functionaries, nor to patented merchants. It comprehends les gens de lettres, those who are engaged in the exercise of the liberal professions, and the artisans; and might be said to bear some analogy to what in France was called the tiers-état. This class is not numerous, nor does it possess much influence in society at St. Petersburgh. Still, among themselves, there is a cordial and gratifying intercourse kept up, which frequently affords, as it did me more than once, an opportunity of spending an hour or two in the evening among clever, agreeable, and well-informed persons. This class is designated in Russian by a particular name, which I have forgotten. Public walks in a capital may be considered as so many places of réunion. In this respect St. Petersburgh need not envy other cities. Certainly one of the most striking promenades is the so often named Nevskoï Prospekt, a street running nearly in a direct line from opposite the Admiralty to the Monastery of St. Alexander Nevskoï, for about four English miles in length. Its width, as I took care to ascertain by admeasurement in both cases, is in many places thirty feet greater than that of Oxfordstreet; it is lined on both sides by noble mansions, and other buildings, of such dimensions, that the new houses in Regent-Street would serve as little more than the basement story to them. A great number of handsome churches, placed in the two lines of houses, serve to heighten the imposing character of the street. The Emperor Paul had ordered a broad foot promenade along the centre, planted with trees, with a low railing on each side, which 'existed till some years after his death, and must have taken away a great deal from its character of grandeur. This arrangement was altered some years ago, and the rows of trees being now planted close to the two wide granite trottoirs, the noble street left in the centre leaves a wide space to the thousands of equipages and vehicles of every description that throng it at all times of the day, but particularly between twelve and three o'clock. As the principal Magasins des Modes, and silk-mercers, are in this street, the belles of St. Petersburgh are to be seen crowding in their carriages to their Howell and James, just as English belles do in London. Occasionally one sees in the winter a few distinguished pedestrians, of both sexes, walking wrapped in their costly furs on the sunny side of the Nevskoï; and once or twice I have noticed every eye directed towards a solitary English lady riding in the fashion of her country, followed at a great distance by a groom: but, in general, it is as a carriage-drive that the Nevskoï is celebrated. Walking goes on more briskly, and is even considered "the great go," during the winter at about two o'clock, and not till after sunset in the summer, on both the English and the Russian quay, or the Dvortsovaya and Anglinskaya Nabéréje-naya. These are, indeed, the rendezvous where most of the gens à loisir, distinguished for rank, wealth, or notoriety, either alone or with their ladies, take care to show themselves, whenever the day is fine. They are the exchange-walks, as it were, of the fashion ables, and more news is invented, more scandal promulgated, and more parties concocted in these two of the finest walks in Europe, than in any other part of St. Petersburgh. It was any thing but summer when I left St. Petersburgh, and therefore I can know nothing from my own experience, of promenades during that season; but I visited what are called the Summer Gardens, in front of the Neva, which, I was told, are much frequented in the evenings during the summer months by very select company; the Imperial family being seen not unfrequently to walk in them. The train of equipages waiting outside for their respective owners, is, I understand, very considerable. The walks are extensive, and said to be well shaded and beautiful. What, however, excited my attention most, at a season when all nature's attractions were laid under three feet of snow, was the railing in front of the gardens, acknowledged to be the most magnificent in Europe. It is formed by thirty-six massive Doric pillars, of solid granite, surmounted alternately by an urn, and a vase, measuring altogether from the ground, upwards of twenty feet. These are connected by an airy and tasteful railing, formed of spears of wrought iron, tipped with the richest gilding. Three entrances interrupt the line with gates, which are closed at night, likewise made of wrought iron, beautifully decorated and worked with foliage and scrolls, covered with gold. The extent of this railing, which is raised on a dwarf stylobate of granite, is about 700 feet. CHAPTER XIV. PICTURE OF ST. PETERSBURGH. The Theatres. The Great Theatre. -Russian Opera. Madame SEMENOFF.. SAMOÏLOFF the Tenor. - CARATIGUINE, the tragic Actor. Russian Farces. - Grand Russian Ballet at the Opera. -Mademoiselle ISTOMINA.- La BERTRAND. School for Singing The Little Theatre. — The French Play. and Acting. dame Le BRAS. Madame FUNK. - Monsieur Signora - SCHWARTZ BARTOLUCCI - Signor Tosi. — The recruited Signore, at Warsaw. English Theatre. Summer Theatres at Kamennoi and Yelaguine.-Islands.-Astley's of St. Petersburgh, or Cirque d'Equitation.- English Newspapers and Russian Bills of the Play. - Draps de Lit and Mouchoirs de Poche.— General Imperial Direction of the Theatres, at St. Petersburgh.— New Company of Italian Singers. - Mademoiselle MELAS.- Regulations for, and Privileges of successful Dramatic Authors. Musical Clubs.-Société Philharmonique. Colonel LvoFF and the Marchesa PALLAVICINI. The Chantres de la Cour. sian Church Music. — BORTNIANSKY, the great Russian Composer. The Hunting Music. Russian Dances. The Golubetz.- The Cossack Dance. - Popular Sports and Diversions. - The Ice-Hills. The Montagnes Russes, without Snow. - The Swaika. - The Jumping-Board. — Boxing, or Kulatschnoï Boy. Excess of luxury in the Head-dress of the Women.. "ALLONS done au grand spectacle, au Bolshoy Théâtre," said to me, a few days after our arrival, the |