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flows through a file of majestic mountains to the neighbourhood of Inverness, where it discharges its waters into the Murray Frith. I I could perceive the mazy directions of my road, winding amongst the craggs and woods which adorned the sides of the mountains upon my left; at no small height above the surface of the lake, along whose margin it continued, and by its elevated situation, seemed to pro: mise a rich feast to the'eyes of the traveller.
The extraordinary sublimity of the prospect I had already coutemplated, having raised my soul to an unusual pitch of enthusiasm, I proceeded forwards, as rapidly as my little beast could carry me, to explore the hidden beauties of the romantic scenes before me.
I had continued to ascend for upwards of a mile, through projecting rocks, hanging woods, and small cascades; 'till looking over a low wall (which seemed to defend the tra. veller from the tremendous precipice that rose over the lake), I found myself elevated some hundred feet above the level of the water, and from this distinguished eminence I had once more the delight to contemplate the exquisite scene, now rendered singularly beautiful and interesting, by having a most brilliant and perfect rainbow, arched over from the north to the south shore of the lake, appearing like an enchanted bridge, built by fairy hands.
The thoughts that are inspired in contemplative minds, by scenes such as these, are indiscribably lofty and sublime, and are far more delightful to the enthusiastic imagination than can be the influence of any works of art, however mighty and comprehensive they may be. When I am admitted, as it were, into the deep and teeming womb of Nature, and when reposing upon her glowing bosom I am shut out from the cankering cares of this world, placed beyond the reach of her follies and her vices; it is then, and then alone, that I rejoice in my existence, there I can humble myself before the Deity, and adore Him in his mightiest works without being shackled, controled, and degraded, by any of the in. fernal laws of mankind.
Eager to reach General's Hut, from which I
procure a guide, to conduct to the celebrated Falls of Foyers, I
which I was at present surrounded, being afraid to delay time, least I should not be able to reach Fort-Augustus that night, which was many miles distant, and there was no other place upon the road where I could gain a night's lodging.
I began now to experience the effects of a misfortune I had not anticipated. The man of whom I had purchased the poor brute, that bore me and my luggage, had imposed upon me, for that humble companion of my toils, suddenly began to shew very
evident marks of disapprobation at the roughness of our road; which, indeed, to an animal per. fectly sound would not have been very pleasant, as in many places it became almost in. accessible, on account of the many loose frag. ments of rock, and large heaps of stones. which had been washed down by the late heavy rains, from the high mountains that rose immediately from the side of the road. On account of the frequency of these sturdy obstacles, and the increasing lameness of my poney, I was obliged to dismount almost every ten minutes, in order to lead her them.
She limped onwards with great pain and difficulty, to my no small dismay, for setting aside the compassion I felt for her suf. ferings, I began to fear that I should be compelled to leave her behind me, to drag out a miserable existence in that wild country, and be myself under the disagreeable necessity of peregrinating a long journey on foot, ere I should be able to meet with a conveyance for myself and baggage.
For here I have found no traveller's rest; no habitation of joy or comfort for the stranger to be refreshed at; no bourne for the repose of the wearied pilgrim; nor any good Samaritan to aid the wanderer in the hour of his sickness or death; but here Nature seems to dwell alone in her
I had already passed a few miserable huts that were scattered upon the declivities of the mountains. These lonely habitations were chiefly composed of a black kind of peat, which gave them a very forlorn appearance, that was much increased by having no chimney's erected for the evacuation of the smoke, which in most of the poor Scotch hamlets, remains in the apartment, until it obtains vent at the door or windows. Some of the inhabitants, indeed, have the wisdom to leave a hole in the roof of their wretched cabins, in order to allow a free vent to the smoke; but others affirm that they wish it to remair in their apartment, because they say it im. parts some degree of warmth during the se, verity of their winters. When I entered one of these mean dwellings I was nearly suffocated by the smoke, while the inhabitants appeared to be not in the least incommoded by it, so wonderful are the effects of custom.
At every step I now took, the country grew more and more impressive. The rocks became more enlarged, rugged, and abrupt; while the woods, as if more anxious to hide their haggard nakedness, and effectually screen it from the view, became more luxuriant,
The road becoming somewhat more even and level, I was enabled to reach General's Hut, by one o'clock, to the no small gratification of my beast.
This small inn derives its name from the circumstance of the Duke of Cumberland having
ordered an hut to be erected on this spot, for his accommodation during the memorable rebellion