Canoes and piraguas, nevertheless, do ascend both, almost to their sources, but always with difficulty.

I have in my possession an original letter from Don Francisco Irias, who descended the Rio Wanks in 1842. He observes that it has several large tributaries, the Coa and Poteca from the north, and the Bocay and Pantasma from the south, and proceeds:

66 I pass now to describe the rapids, which commence at the place called Pailla. They are, Gualiquitan, which has a strong current, and a broken, narrow channel between the rocks, but which may be passed without the least danger. Ulacuz, which is similar, but also without danger, abounding in water derived from the great river Ulacuz, which falls from the right, from fearful (espantosa) mountains, in my opinion extending to the southeast. Guascuru has its rapids, which, though somewhat abrupt, are without risk in the passage. Quiroz is similar, although there is a fall before arriving to it, around which, however, nature has formed a canal, so that the navigation of the river is uninterrupted. Turuquitan is a rapid or narrows, which is only dangerous for the transportation of cattle, on account of a great rock in the middle of the stream, upon which, if the

rowers are not dexterous, the rafts are sure to run. But accidents are rare, inasmuch as the oarsmen are accustomed to this kind of navigation from their youth. Suginquitan is another unimportant rapid. At Crantara the current is strong, but the passage is entirely practicable, as is also the case at Pistalquitan. The rapid of Cairas, at first sight, terrifies the voyager with its rushing, foaming, and tumultuous waters, yet does not prevent his passage, for nature has also here provided marvelously for overcoming the difficulty, and made a side canal before arriving at the dangerous point, by means of which the boats can be passed by the oarsmen in an hour with entire safety. Tilras and Quipispe are the final rapids, and are unimportant.

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"These are the sole obstructions to the navigation of the river from the point of embarkation to the sea, at Cape Gracias á Dios. At present the descent occupies about ten days. Two days are taken up in descending the rapids here described, and four in ascending them. It will be observed that only about fifth part of the river is in any way obstructed. The delay in the voyage is chiefly occasioned by unloading and reloading at some of the points above mentioned. From the last-named rapids to the Cape there is scarcely any current, and it is necessary to use the oars. This part of the country through which the river passes is very beautiful, being composed of open plains covered with grass and scattered trees. It is a section well adapted to raising black cattle and horses, as also to the introduction of colonies, which in a few years could attain to prosperity and riches upon its virgin soil in cultivating its numerous valuable fruits, and in consequence of its proximity to the Cape and the Great Antilles, affording easy means of exportation and a market. Mules and horses may here be raised in the greatest abundance, and profitably shipped to Cuba, Jamaica, and other points where most valued.

"It is lamentable to find so beautiful a coast with no other population except a few Moscos (Mosquitos), unable from want of education, as unfitted by disposition, to attain to any improvement in the future. I will endeavor to give some idea of their savage situation and customs. Most of them subsist by

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hunting and fishing, and a very few by a rude and petty agriculture, planting, in little patches on the borders of the river, small quantities of plantains, yucas, sweet cane, and cotton, the last of which is rudely spun and woven by the women in the form of blankets, sails for their canoes, strings for their bows, and netting for feather-work. Some of their feather-work is quite beautiful. They make a kind of cloth of the bark of a tree, called ule, which serves for dress and for covering at night.

"They celebrate the anniversaries of the death of their parents or friends with most doleful and unharmonious songs and wailings, which are enough to put the timid traveler to flight. This mourning or lamentation is chiefly performed by the women, under a tent of ule bark. Some perform the ceremony walking backward and forward for the distance of about one hundred yards, in the following manner: they advance four or five steps, and then fall flat on their chest and face with a force apparently great enough to kill themselves, repeating the same barbaric ceremony until the night closes. Some paint their faces with achiote or tile, and, though they exhibit some skill in this, most are rendered horrible from the operation. They are all very much addicted to strong drinks, and when a dram is given them they exhibit great satisfaction, and endeavor to return some article which their situation enables them to give; but this is done on the moment, and the favor is soon forgotten.

"They appear kind, and exert themselves to please strangers who may visit their huts; for, though there are among them some bad and disorderly Indians, yet there are very few who will offer any violence to the traveler, principally, however, on account of the fear in which they stand of their chiefs, to whom they pay great deference. For any fault of obedience or any crime they are severely punished, so that traders may carry on their traffic with little fear of insult or injury. They are fond of dances, for which they provide fermented liquors of cane-juice and yuca in great abundance, and when the day fixed upon arrives, a great number of families collect, all having their faces fantastically painted. When they are gathered, two designated dancers open the ceremony, appearing suddenly from the depths of the forest, where they are previously hidden, dressed in palm

leaves, and painted of various colors. These extraordinary figures enter a square covered with pacaya leaves, where they dance a whole day, joined by many people. Meanwhile, most of the guests remain in or about the hut of their host, drinking eagerly the fermented liquors, which, being strong, soon upset them, producing violent vomiting. Upon recovering a little, and the sun somewhat declining, the males form their dance apart from the women, making use, as instruments of music, of a dull-sounding drum, and of some great, hoarse-sounding pipes of hollow reeds, the noise of which is frightful, accompanied by some small pipes, to the measure of which rude instruments the musicians as well as the people dance until nine or ten o'clock at night. The women, also apart, commence their dance at eight o'clock at night, and continue until five in the morning. They form a right line, each taking the hand of the other, occasionally separating and shaking a rattling gourd, to the sound of which, accompanied by a low chant, they dance. It can hardly be said that any of these dances are worth seeing; but it is certain that, in spite of their extravagance, they do not fail greatly to amuse the civilized spectator.

"Some of these Moscos (Mosquitos) raise a few mares, and some cows, besides which they have a little commerce with Belize, from which place are brought a little clothing, iron pots, guns, axes, and other articles, which are carried to different points in the valley of Pantasma, the old Look-out, and to the town of Talpeneca, where they are exchanged for calves of one or two years old, which are carried in balsas (rafts) down to the

coast.

"The chief or 'king' who at this time governed these savages was a man of small stature, thin, with an aquiline nose, dark color, descended from Xicaque and Mosco ancestors, and had some education. His residence was generally upon the banks of the river. He was hospitable to the voyagers, inviting them to his hut, and feasting them to the best of his ability while they remained with him. He also insisted on all who were fond of aguardiente (rum) to drink until they could not move, on pain of being regarded as wanting in consideration to him.

"Cape Gracias a Dios unfortunately has no commerce, but it

has a favorable and picturesque situation. It has in front a salt lake of large capacity, which is separated from the ocean by a strip of land covered with mangroves, opening from the sea upon the south, where vessels may enter to reach the town or settlement. The coast is here occupied by Moscos and Sambos, among whom are one or two Englishmen. One of these is named Stanislaus Thomas Haly, who has about one hundred head of cattle, with some mares and saddle-horses. The climate at this point is healthy, as is also that of the valley of the river, for in all my journey I saw but one sick person.

"Of the islands on the coast I have no personal knowledge. In returning from the cape I was occupied twenty days. Mr. Haly assured me that a road might be opened by which the journey from the cape to this point might be made in six days. He also stated that, in his opinion, at a cost of ten thousand dollars, the few difficulties in the river, which obstruct the transportation of commodities, could be removed."