to him. He brought a fkilful nurseryman from England, and formed twelves acres of nursery. It begins to fhew itself. Above ten thoufand perch of hedges are made, planted with quick and trees; and feveral acres, fecurely inclosed on advantageous fpots, and filled with young and thriving plantations. Trees were given, gratis, to the tenantry, and premiums begun for those who plant moft, and preferve them belt, befides fourfcore pounds a year offered for a variety of improvements in agriculture the most wanted upon the estate.

Men, who from long poffeffion of landed property, become gradually convinced of the importance of attending to it, may at laft work fome improvements without meriting any confiderable portion of praife; but that a young man, warm from pleasure, should do it, has a much fuperior claim. Lord Kingsborough has, in this respect, a great deal of merit; and for the fake both of himself and his coun try, I heartily wish he may fteadily perfevere in that line of conduct which his understanding has once told him, and must continue to tell him, is fo greatly for the advantage of himself, his family and the Public.

It is not uncommon, especially in mountainous countries, to find objects that much deserve the attention of travellers intirely neglected by them. There are a few inftances of this upon Lord Kingfborough's eftate, in the neighbourhood of Mitchelftown; the first I fhall mention, is a cave at Skeheenrinky, on the road between Cahir and that place the opening to it is a cleft of rock in a lime-ftone hill, fo narrow as to be difficult to get into it. I defcended by a ladder of about twenty fteps, and then found myself in a vault of a hundred feet long, and fifty or fixty high: a small hole, on the left, leads from this a winding course of I believe not lefs than half an Irish mile, exhibiting a variety that ftruck me much. In fome places the cavity in the rock is fo large, that when well lighted up by candles (not flambeaux, Lord Kingfborough once fhewed it me with them, and we found their fmoke troublefome), it takes the appearance of a vaulted cathedral, fupported by maffy columns. The walls, cieling, floor, and pillars, are by turns compofed of every fantastic form and often of very beautiful incrustations of fpar, fome of which glitters fo much, that it feems powdered with diamonds, and in others the cieling is formed of that fort which has fo near a refemblance to a cauliflower. The fpar formed into columns by the dropping of water has taken fome very regular forms; but others are different, folded in plaits of light drapery, which hang from their fupport in a very pleafing manner. The angles of the walls feem fringed with icicles. One very long branch of the cave, which turns to the North, is in fome places fo narrow and low, that one crawls into it, when it fuddenly breaks into large vaulted spaces, in a thoufand forms. The fpar in all this cave is very brilliant, and almost equal to Bristol ftone. For several hundred yards in the larger branch, there is a deep water at the bottom of the declivity to the right, which the common people call the river. A part of the way is over a fort of potter's clay, which moulds into any form, and is of a brown colour: a very different foil from any in the neighbouring country, I have feen the famous cave in the Peak, but think it very

much

much inferior to this: and Lord Kingfborough, who has viewed the Grot d'Aucel in Burgundy, fays that it is not to be compared with it.

But the commanding region of the Galties deferves more attention. Those who are fond of scenes in which nature reigns in all her wild magnificence, fhould vifit this ftupendous chain. It confists of many valt mountains, thrown together in an affemblage of the most interesting features, from boldnefs and height of the declivities, freedom of outline, and variety of parts; filling a fpace of about fix miles by three or four. Galtymore is the highest point, and rifes like the lord and father of the furrounding progeny. From the top you look down upon a great extent of mountain, which fhelves away from him to the South, Eaft, and Weft; but to the North, the ridge is almost a perpendicular declivity. On that fide the famous golden vale of Limerick and Tipperary fpreads a rich level to the eye, bounded by the mountains of Clare, King's and Queen's counties, with the courfe of the Shannon, for many miles below Limerick. To the South you look over alternate ridges of mountains, which rife one beyond another, till in a clear day the eye meets the ocean near Dungarvon. The mountains of Waterford and Knockmaldown fill up the space to the South-east. The Western is the most extenfive view; for nothing flops the eye till Mangerton and Macgilly Cuddy's Reeks point out the fpot where Killarney's lake calls for a farther excurfion. The profpest extends into eight counties, Corke, Kerry, Waterford, Limerick, Clare, Queen's, Tipperary, King's.

A little to the Weft of this proud fummit, below it in a very extraordinary hollow, is a circular lake of two acres, reported to be unfathomable. The defcriptions which I have read of the craters of exhausted volcanoes, leave very little doubt of this being one; and the conical regularity of the fummit of Galtymore, fpeaks the fame language. Eaft of this refpe&able hill, to ufe Sir William Hamilton's language, is a declivity of about one quarter of a mile, and there Galty beg rifes in a yet more regular cone, and between the two hills is another lake, which from pofition feems to have been once the crater which threw up Galty beg, as the firit mentioned was the origin of Galtymore. Beyond the former hill is a third lake, and east of that another hill; I was told of a fourth, with another correfponding mountain. It is only the mere fummit of these mountains which rife above the lakes. Speaking of them below, they may be faid to be on the tops of the hills; they are all of them at the bottom of an almoft regularly circular hollow. On the fide, next the mountain top, are walls of perpendicular rocks, in regular ftrata, and fome of them piled on each other, with an appearance of art rather than nature. In these rocks the eagles, which are feen in numbers on the Galties, have their nefls. Suppofing the mountains to be of volcanic origin, and these lakes the craters, of which I have not a doubt, they are objects of the greatest curiofity, for there is an unufual regularity in every confiderable fummit, having its correfponding crater; but without this circumftance the scenery is interefting in a very great degree. The mountain fummits, which are often wrapped in the clouds, at other times exhibit the freeft outline; the immenfe fcooped hollows which fink at your feet, declivities of fo

vaft a depth as to give one terror to look down; with the unusual forms of the lower region of hills, particularly Bull hill and Round hill, each a mile over, yet rifing out of circular vales, with the regularity of femi-globes, unite upon the whole, to exhibit a scenery to the eye, in which the parts are of a magnitude fo commanding, a character fo interefting, and a variety fo ftriking, that they well deferve to be examined by every curious traveller.

Nor are thefe immenfe outlines the whole of what is to be seen in this great range of mountains. Every Glen has its beauties; there is a confiderable mountain river, or rather torrent, in every one of them; but the greateft are the Funcheon, between Sefang and Galtymore; the Limestone river, between Galtymore and Round hill; and the Groufe river, between Coolegarranroe, and Mr. O'Callaghan's mountain; these prefent to the eye, for a tract of about three miles, every variety that rock, water, and mountain can give, thrown into all the fantaftic forms which art may attempt in ornamented grounds, but always fails in. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the water, when not difcoloured by rain, its lucid tranfparency fhews, at confiderable depths, every pebble no bigger than a pin, every rocky bafon alive with trout and eels, that play and dafh among the rocks, as if endowed with that native vigour which animate in a fuperior degree, every inhabitant of the mountains, from the bounding red deer, and the foaring eagle, down even to the fishes of the brook. Every five minutes you have a waterfall in these glens, which in any other region, would flop every traveller to admire it. Sometimes the vale takes a gentler declivity, and prefents to the eye, at one ftroke, twenty or thirty falls, which render the fcenery all alive with the motion; the rocks are toffed about in the wildest confufion, and the torrent burfts by turns from above, beneath, and under them; while the back ground is always filled up with the mountains which ftretch around.

· In the western Glen is the finest cascade in all the Galties; there are two falls, with a bafon in the rock between, but from fome points of view they appear one; the rock over which the water tumbles is about fixty feet high. A good line in which to view thefe objects is either to take the Killarney and Mallow road, to Mitchelftown, and from thence, by Lord Kingfborough's new one, to Skeheenrinky, there to take one of the Glens, to Galty beg and Galtymore, and return to Mitcheltown by the Wolf's track, Temple hill, and the Waterfall: or, if the Corke road is travelling, to make Dobbin's inn, at Ballyporeen, the head quarters, and view them from thence. [To be continued.]

Art. VII. Letters from an English Traveller, Martin Sherlock, Efq. Tranflated from the French Original printed at Geneva. With Notes. 4to. 3 s. fewed. Cadell, &c. 1780.

WE

E have already delivered our opinion of these letters, on their publication in the original French, at Geneva * ;

See our preceding vol. p. 562.

and

and this our English Readers have now the opportunity of ap plying to the tranflation, which appears to be well executed. Our former account has left us very little to add on the present occafion; the letters, as we before hinted, are but scanty morfels, and are proportionally flight and desultory in the defcriptions and remarks: though what they want in length feems to be fomewhat compenfated by a ftudied fententiousness in the language. If the whole collection, from whence these letters are felected, amount, as we are informed, to two hundred; we apprehend the prefent number, by a little compofition, might have been rendered more fatisfactory and amufing than they now appear. But from an advertisement, at the end, we fufpect these detached fpecimens may have been fent out to prepare the way for more elaborate performances of an itinerary nature.

Among the letters that we apprehend might have been enriched from Mr. Sherlock's referved ftores, is the enfuing one dated from Vienna.

There are here a German theatre and an Italian one, both bad. There is only one woman who has merit. Though he has neither beauty nor air, the plays with fuch judgment, and has fuch an expreffion in her looks, her actions, and her cadence, that she even interefts thofe who are unacquainted with the language.

You will here fee fome fingular fights; the proceffion of the knights of the Golden Fleece is fuperb; the Hungarian guards, who come to court on New-year's day, are the most brilliant troop in Europe; but the moft ftriking fight, and which is really beautiful, is the courfe of fledges. The Archduchefs of Milan, the Archduchefs Mary-Elizabeth, and the Princefs Schwarzenberg, were led by the Archduke of Milan, the Archduke Maximilian, and Prince Albert of Saxony: they were followed by twenty-five ladies, all in crimson velvet with a very broad gold lace; the dreffes of the knights were of a sky-blue velvet, laced like thofe of the ladies. There were fome equipages that coft 1000 louis. On each fide of the horse were two running-footmen, dreffed with an elegance suitable to the equipage.

This is one of the happy moments in the life of a Viennese lady; it is the moment in which the makes the moft pompous difplay of her riches and of her charms. Embellished with all her graces, her head ftudded with diamonds, her bofom open, the feems a Venus in her car; and knowing that the is the object of the admiration of fome thoufands of perfons, fhe fhews her heart's content by a perpetual fmile. In every country the fair go dreffed out to public places to be feen; but here the women make the fhow, and the pleafure with which this idea infpires them is fo lively, that it makes them entirely forget the rigours of the feafon. It is not fo with the poor knight; having no enjoyment, but that of admiring the nape of his fair one's neck, he perishes with cold: in fact, fome men have been frequently obliged to retire before the expiration of thefe two hours,

* La Sacco.

on

on account of the feverity of the cold; but no woman was ever known to complain of it.

The courfe begins in the great fquare before the Imperial pa lace; they take feveral turns there, and after traverfing the principal ftreets of the city, they return thither to finish it by other turns. The ground of fnow, on which this moving picture winds, relieves its fplendor extremely, and makes the fight the richest and most dazzling that can be conceived.

But the fight that gives a foreigner the most pleasure at Vienna, is that which he fees in the anti-chamber of Prince Kaunitz, once a week after dinner: it is a concourfe of all the indigent who are in need of protection, and who come thither affured of finding it: the ear of that Prince is never fhut to the complaints of the poor, and his hand is always ready to give them affiftance.'

If our memory does not mislead us, this German diverfion on the fnow in fledges of various fanciful defigns is the subject of one of Hollar's prints: and the engraver is rather more explanatory than the relator.

The following character of Rome and its inhabitants, is ftrongly marked.

Rome, October 1, 1778. Magnificence, hypocrify, and fadnefs, reign here; the number of fine palaces, of beautiful churches, of fuperb fountains, of treafares of art, and venerable remains of antiquity, give an air of grandeur to Rome which is not found in any other country.

pro

The want of public entertainments, the little population in portion to the extent of the city, and its fituation, furrounded by hills which prevent a free circulation of air, added to the oppreffive weight of the Scirocco wind, feem to me the chief caufes of its real fadnefs; but what increases this apparent gloom, is the air of fanctity which the Romans affect, and the general drefs of the country, which is black. The habit of an Abbé is the court drefs; and as it is also the cheapeft, every one wears it.

Every court is the abode of diffimulation; at Rome there are as many courts as Cardinals; every Cardinal is a kind of Prince, and may become a fovereign; this reafon alone may convince you that this country must have more men in masks than any other.

Of all the fovereigns whom I have feen, the Pope acts majeftythe beft; the Cardinals are like Martial's epigrams; there are fome good, fome bad, and many indifferent. Almoft all of them derive honour from their rank; the Cardinal de Bernis is an exception; he does honour to the purple by his virtues and his talents.

'The women are referved in public, and wanton in private; the prelates, effeminate; the nobility, illiterate; and the people, wicked.

The ftudies generally purfued are, the laws, antiquities, and divinity, because these are the three principal roads that here lead to fortune. A poet is confidered as a dangerous, or at lealt an useless, being, and for this reafon a poetical talent is rather oppreffed than encouraged. Metaftafio could not there find bread.

You would often have occafion to admire the genius of Corneille for the truth with which he has drawn the Roman women.

• Mr. Sherlock thinks this is the Plumbeus Aufter of Horace.

The