Imatges de pàgina
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audaciously broken through his directions for the "July fly;" and although he generally managed to get a well-filled basket either of rangers, or a sort of sea-trout,* still the Spaniards could not at all comprehend why a Caballero, whose livelihood certainly could not depend on his angling, should take such extraordinary pains, and endure such apparent hardships, to secure a few paltry little fishes. scarcely worth their "oil and garlic."

On one occasion, as I returned from one of my usual rambling excursions, I saw John, dripping with wet, standing on the bank, adjusting a fly or casting a line, and apparently engaged in deep confabulation with a little swarthy-looking Spaniard, who, with the primitive invention of a rope fastened to a bit of stick (affording a strong contrast to John's elaborate apparatus), was in rapid succession drawing up from the water a number of

* John's operations were generally near the mouth of the Guadranque, where it was under the full influence of the tide, and the water consequently either brackish or quite salt.

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animals of some sort, and which were immediately stowed away into his capacious wallet. Anxious to find out what could be the subject of conversation between two beings who could not understand each other-for John was perfectly innocent of Castillan-I noiselessly approached as my friend of the wallet was dexterously detaching the barbed point of his fishbaited hook from the throat of one of those hideous-looking animals called the "toad-fish,' but here known under the denomination of "demonios," or devils. As the ugly brute was writhing on the grass preparatory to being "bagged," I heard his captor, whilst complacently pointing to him, and, looking up into John's countenance, make the following remark:-"Y pues, hombre! porque se va a mojar usted, y tomar tanto trabajo cuando por una pezzetta jo le vendré todo ese pescao?"— "And why, man! wherefore should you go and wet yourself and take so much trouble when for a few pence you might have all my fish?" The "Pescator dell' onda" was further descanting on the advantage of both his bait and

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tackle, which required no trouble except dipping into the water and drawing out again, the whole of which might be done, added he— as the strongest point in his argument-" estando siempre sentão."-" Never rising from your seat."

John's answers were monosyllabic: they consisted in sundry expletives, which—whether bestowed on himself, his tackle, or his talkative companion-it was difficult to say. At last, losing all patience, he exclaimed, "D-n your eyes, me no intiende !"

The angry tone in which this eloquent address was uttered appeared to excite the wrath of the Pescador: a "car-o" was bursting from his lips, when I interposed-gave him the "pezzetta" for all his "demonios"—and, pointing to the sun, just then setting in floods of fire behind the Tarifan hills, said—what we now repeat to the patient and enduring reader -"Amigo, quede usted con Dios."

CHAPTER VIII.

A RUN FROM GIBRALTAR TO THE OPPOSITE COAST OF AFRICA.

Associations connected with Africa-Land near Tetuan -Traffic with Barbary-Old Hadge MahometThe river Martine-Capture of a large fish-Contrast between the opposite shores of Europe and Africa-The plain of Tetuan-Appearance of the town-Yahoodies, or Jews-Mr. Bendurlack's posada-Esther and Seemah-Beauty of the Jewesses

-Chateaubriand's remark on the subject-Richness of their apparel-Hash-Hash-A walk through the town-Hassan the Janizary-Mr. Butler, the ViceConsul-The Sok at Tetuan-A bridal feast-Sham fight-Arabian horses and barbs-Departure from Tetuan-The Ain-é-Sdeed, or new fountain.

CHAPTER VIII.

A RUN FROM GIBRALTAR TO THE OPPOSITE

COAST OF AFRICA.

"Oft have I heard, on Afric's burning shore,
A hungry lion give an awful roar."

BOMBASTES.

WITH the very name of Africa-as has on a previous occasion been remarked-are connected associations of grandeur, desolation, and sterility; whilst the concomitant ideas annexed to the term are boundless deserts of drifting sand, only occasionally enlivened by a few straggling palm-trees, under whose scanty shade repose the patient and enduring camel-the bronzed and swarthy Bedouin-or maybe the still more savage and ruthless tenants of the

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