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upon this occasion. The admirable presence of mind, which is notorious in Quakers upon all contingencies, might be traced to this imposed selfwatchfulness-if it did not seem rather an humble and secular scion of that old stock of religious constancy, which never bent or faltered, in the Primitive Friends, or gave way to the winds of persecution, to the violence of judge or accuser, under trials and racking examinations. "You will never be the wiser, if I sit here answering your questions till midnight," said one of those upright Justicers to Penn, who had been putting law-cases with a puzzling subtlety. "Thereafter as the answers may be," retorted the Quaker. The astonishing composure of this people is sometimes ludicrously displayed in lighter instances. I was travelling in a stage coach with three male Quakers, buttoned up in the straitest non-conformity of their sect. We stopped to bait at Andover, where a meal, partly tea apparatus, partly supper, was set before us. My friends confined themselves to the tea table. I in my way took supper. When the landlady brought in the bill, the eldest of my companions discovered that she had charged for both meals. This was resisted. Mine hostess was very clamorous and positive. Some mild arguments were used on the part of the Quakers, for

which the heated mind of the good lady seemed by no means a fit recipient. The guard came in with his usual peremptory notice. The Quakers pulled out their money, and formally tendered it—so much for teaI, in humble imitation, tendering mine

for the supper which I had taken. She would not relax in her demand. So they all three quietly put up their silver, as did myself, and marched out of the room, the eldest and gravest going first, with myself closing up the rear, who thought I could not do better than follow the example of such grave and warrantable personages. We got in. The steps went up. The coach drove off. The murmurs of mine hostess, not very indistinctly or ambiguously pronounced, became after a time inaudible-and now my conscience, which the whimsical scene had for a while suspended, beginning to give some twitches, I waited, in the hope that some justification would be offered by these serious persons for the seeming injustice of their conduct. To my great surprise, not a syllable was dropped on the subject. They sate as mute as at a meeting. At length the eldest of them broke silence, by enquiring of his next neighbour, "Hast thee heard how indigos go at the India House?" and the question operated as a soporific on my moral feeling as far as Exeter. ELIA.

TRAVELS OF COSMO THE THIRD, GRAND DUKE OF TUSCANY, THROUGH ENGLAND, IN 1669.*

If any of our readers, instead of a trip to the Continent this summer, should prefer visiting a part of our own country, in the company of the great and learned, they have nothing to do but fall into the suite of the hereditary prince of Tuscany (afterwards Grand Duke, with the title of Cosmo III), and joining six other Italians of distinction (among whom the most remarkable is Lorenzo Ma

galotti, the scribe of the party), a painter,+ and an architect, prepare themselves to partake of the good fare that every where awaits them.

We trust, however, that none of them will have the same motive for quitting home as occasioned Cosmo to set out on his journey. It was to get rid of an ill-conditioned wife, of whom he is said to have been fonder than she deserved; but who had

Travels of Cosmo the Third, Grand Duke of Tuscany, through England, during the Reign of King Charles II. (1669); translated from the Italian Manuscript in the Laurentian Library at Florence; with a Memoir of his Life, &c. 4to. Mawman, 1821. + Sigismondo Coccapani was the name of the painter who accompanied the expedition. This could not have been the Florentine artist of that name, mentioned with much commendation in the Abecedario Pittorico of Orlandi, as he died in 1642.

used him so ill, that his father, Ferdinand II. in order to estrange his affections from her, had more than once sent him roving about the world. In dutiful compliance with this design, the prince, in September 1668, set sail from Leghorn, landed at Barcelona, "and passing from thence to Madrid, in the usual incognito of princes, traversed the whole western part of Spain, and proceeded into Portugal. "A most elaborate account," we are told, in a life of the prince, that is prefixed, " was kept of all that occurred in these travels, accompanied by designs made upon the spot, wherever the royal stranger was received, rested, or was detained." These designs, indeed, now form the principal object of curiosity in what remains of this journal; they are, however, feebly executed, the perspective of them is very deficient, and they strongly mark the decline of art which had then commenced in Florence. The state of manners of Spain, at that period, appears to have been nearly what it now is; but some future traveller, desirous of affording information respecting a country, which has lately engaged so much attention in England, might, in all probability, derive some advantage, by comparing his own designs with those of the artist who accompanied Cosmo in the seventeenth century.

From Lisbon the prince proceeded to Corunna, and from thence embarked for England. At this period commences the description of his tour, of which a faithful translation is given in this volume.

This account of the actions of a prince, in the common occurrences of life, may, perhaps, be found minute even to tediousness, but this minuteness is not destitute of interest. It opens a transient view of the state of society in England at that time, as far as a prince could be admitted into it: it affords an opportunity to record the names, and even the circumstances of many families, who hastened to show him honour, or to offer him hospitality; and the drawings made of the different towns and houses are highly interesting, particularly those of London and Westminster. At the risk, therefore, of fatiguing the patience of the reader,

the journal is literally translated from "the Italian manuscript in the Laurentian library at Florence," and the drawings engraved. An abridgment might have been rendered more amusing, but would have lost much of its information, and many of the drawings must have been omitted. A fairer report of the book could not well have been made, than has been given by its editor.

Having lost their course at sea, the prince with his retinue touched at Kinsale, where the oppression of their catholic brethren did not fail to excite their commiseration. On reconnoitring the hills in the neighbourhood of that port, they discovered that the Irish natives "rested on the bare earth;" "and lived like wild beasts." Sailing from hence they land at St. Mary's, one of the Scilly islands; and thence proceed to Plymouth, which, says Magalotti, "in the last century was a poor village inhabited by fishermen. It is now so increased in buildings and population, that it may be reckoned among the best cities in England, having between twelve and fifteen thousand inhabitants." "The city

cannot be seen from the sea, and is almost shut up by a gorge of the mountains, on the lowest skirt of which it is situated. Its extent is not very considerable. The buildings are antique, according to the English fashion; lofty and narrow, with pointed roofs, and the fronts may be seen through, owing to the magnitude of the glass windows in each of the different stories." The dress of the mayor and aldermen at Plymouth, as at every other corporate town, does not escape the minute notice of the ceremonious Italian. Due respect is every where paid to the illustrious foreigners by the gentlemen of the country; and the following incident affords a trait of the manners and courtesy of the times. "When they had proceeded about a mile, there came galloping up to the coach Sir Copleston Bampfylde, with his wife and sister. They happened to be hunting in that neighbourhood, and wished not to lose the opportunity of performing an act of respect to his highness. The serene prince stopped his carriage, and received their compliments, but did not alight

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to salute them, not knowing till afterwards who the ladies were." Passing "through the small village of Halbombridge," they sleep at Okehampton, and next day reach Exeter. We cannot stop to describe the surrounding country, nor the devoirs of the worthy aldermen, nor the curiosity with which they visited the cathedral, attended the whole of the morning service, and saw at it the Bishop with his wife and children, no less than nine in number," and heard the choir sing the psalms " in a chant similar to the Gregorian," and "an organ of most exquisite tone," and "the preacher in his surplice begin his sermon, leaning on a cushion placed in the middle of a pulpit ;" but must hasten on as well as we can to Axminster, "travelling through a road full of water, and muddy, though not deep." On the ninth of April, the party arrives at Hinton St. George, a villa of my Lord John Paulet, where in the evening Mr. John Sidney, cousin of my Lord, comes from his villa, six miles distant, bringing his Lady with him to pay spects. "His highness" knew better how to act to this lady, than when he met the two huntresses, for "he took her by the hand, and conducted her to a gallery hard by, and departing after a short conversation, continued in discourse with the above gentleman till the close of the day." We again regret that we cannot stay to speak more particularly of my Lord's garden, park, deer, pheasantry, and the village, and church, with its curious monuments. The same must be said of the Roman camp near Dorchester, and of the manner of angling for trout (so different from the Italian) in the small river Frome. On the 11th they depart from Dorchester with a military escort to secure them from the robbers, who molested this district; and passing through Blandford, a little town of four thousand souls (is this right? it is more than it contained in 1801), arrived safe at Salisbury, having declined the invitation given then by the Earl of Pembroke, and his son Lord Herbert, to pass the night at Wilton-house; who, however, were allowed to come with their equipage to fetch his highness to breakfast next morning. On their

way they see Stonehenge," a celebrated piece of antiquity, supposed to be a sepulchre or a trophy," where his highness alighted from the carriage in which he was with Lord Pembroke and his son, and conversed with them for nearly an hour. If the late Bishop of Worcester had been living, he might, perhaps, have made an entertaining dialogue out of this conference, which, as matters are, we must leave in the same obscurity as our worthy guide has left it, and having partaken of the sumptuous entertainment provided for us at Wilton, amuse ourselves with looking at the grotto, the playing fountains, the maze park, and Vandyke's pictures. At Salisbury, the cathedral again attracted the attention of the travellers. "Although the architecture is Gothic in all its parts," no trifling objection with the Florentines; “yet it is magnificent and sumptuous. They say, that the windows which light it correspond with the days of the year, the small marble pillars with the hours of a whole year, and the doors with the twelve months." Pursuing the route to London through Sutton, Basingstoke, Okested, Egham, and Brentford (of all which places views are given, besides more than thirty others) they make their entry into the capital, " finding the whole tract of seven miles, after leaving Brentford, truly delicious, from the abundance of well-built villas and country-houses, which are seen in every direction." "Without the city a numerous crowd of people were assembled on foot, in carriages, and on horseback, to see the prince pass; and the names of many noblemen and foreign ambassadors are enumerated, who waited on him at his arrival. The account of his introduction to Charles II., of the service which he attended at the chapel of the Queen, of the different noblemen who paid their respects to him, of the etiquette observed at court, of the ruins of St. Paul's after the recent fire, of the meeting of the Royal Society, of the theatre,-all this is very curious. The same may be said of Cosmo's visit to Newmarket, Cambridge (where, owing to the pronunciation, he did not understand the Latiu oration recited in his

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praise, nor the Latin comedy acted by the scholars), Althorp, Oxford, (where the Latin was equally unintelligible), Billingsbere, the seat of Colonel Nevil (where he learns that "the rooks are considered in England as preserved birds, the nobility priding themselves on seeing them in the neighbourhood of their villas, and looking on them as fowls of good omen, so that no one is permitted to kill them under severe penalties;") and, lastly, Windsor Castle. Much praise, and very deservedly, is bestowed on Mr. Robert Boyle, at whose house the prince was highly gratified by the experiments and instruments exhibited to him by that philosopher. Both during this and his former residence in London, he appears to have been almost as active as the Emperor Alexander himself, in viewing every thing worthy of notice, and some which the Emperor, perhaps, had not an opportunity of witnessing, such as a cockfight, a dancing-school, frequented by ladies married and unmarried, a fencing-school on a singular plan, and a children's ball at Highgate. An instance of Charles's politeness should not be passed over. When Cosmo had returned from Hampton-court, where he had been entertained with a deer-hunt, the king inquired how he had liked that palace; and on receiving an answer expressive of the prince's opinion of its magnificence, he replied," that his highness's affection for the things of this country made him regard it with partiality, but that it could not be compared, or put in competition, with those of Italy."

After having made an excursion to Chatham and Sheerness, Cosmo and his company finally quitted London; and taking Monk, then made Duke of Albemarle, on their way, embarked at Harwich for Holland.

It might have been expected that something more would have been said on the state of the arts in this country. But Cooper, the portrait painter, to whom Cosmo sat for his picture, is the only English artist whom we recollect to have seen mentioned in the journal; of him it is said, that "he had been strongly recommended to his highness for his skill in painting, and his excellence

in drawing to the life with softness, expression, and distinction. The same is one of the most celebrated and esteemed painters in London, and no person of quality visits that city without endeavouring to obtain some of his performances to take out of the kingdom."

There are some observations on the government, mode of administering justice, and manners of the people; and an attempt is made to discrimi nate the different sects then prevailing in the country, for which the writer was probably indebted to some zealous English Catholic. The description of the "sect of the Atheists," is short and pithy, and will serve as a sample of the rest. "Atheism has many followers in England. It may be called the very abyss of blindness, and the uttermost limit of the pestilent heresy of Calvin. The professors of it say, that there is no God; they do not believe in a resurrection to come; they deny the immortality of the soul; and teach that every thing happens by chance; and, as a natural consequence, they follow their own perverse inclinations, without having any regard to futurity, but thinking only of the present time." At page 446, the sect of the Fotinians should have been Photinians; Fotinus, Photinus; and Samosatano, Samosata; but these are venial errors in a translator. Charles's disposition to the Roman Catholic form of worship did not escape the shrewd Italians. "There is no doubt that the king externally appears to be a Protestant, observing, with the most exact attention, the rites of the Anglican church; but it is also true that, from his method of proceeding, there is reason for thinking, that he does not entirely acquiesce in that mode of belief, and that he may, perhaps, in his own mind, cherish other inclinations."

Had Cosmo III. turned out a better ruler of his people, we should have more pleasure in adding that, some time after his return to Florence, his troublesome helpmate left him, and put herself under the protection of Louis XIV. at whose court her behaviour was either too licentious, or too flippant, to be long tolerated. It is lamentable to see the race of the Medici thus degenerated

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V. 500:

from the character it had maintained in the palmy state" of Florence. What had become of all those qualities which her historian, Macchiavelli, has in a few words so well described: "la bontà di Giovanni, la sapienza di Cosimo, l'umanità di Piero, e la magnificenza e prudenza di Lorenzo:" the goodness of John, the wisdom of Cosmo, the humanity of Peter, and the magnificence and prudence of Lorenzo?

Count Lorenzo Magalotti, by whom this journal was written, deserved a more particular account than is here given of him. He was well known as a linguist, natural philosopher and poet. Sir Isaac Newton is said to have called him, not very elegantly perhaps, "the Magazine of good taste." Of his acquaintance with the English language, and consequently of his fitness for the task of journalist imposed upon him by his sovereign, some estimate may be formed from his translation of "Philips's Cider." It was, probably, one of the first instances, in which our own poets began to react on their continental neighbours; and, in this point of view at least, a few remarks, that we shall add, will not be thrown away upon it.

B.1. V.53. Nor from the sable grounds. The sense is mistaken; sable is translated as if it meant sandy.

Ne t'impacciar d'arene. This leads to another error. The must of pallid hue,

being rendered

Il lor pallido volto,

As if it meant the colour of the soil.
V. 159, Such heats, &c. to 167, is

omitted.

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The musk's surpassing worth, that earliest
Sure hopes of racy wine, and in its youth,
gives
Its tender nonage, loads the spreading
boughs
With large and juicy offspring, that defies
The vernal nippings and cold sid❜ral blasts.
Moscadella ·

Alte speranze di pincer prometti,
Pianta gentil, che fanciulletta ancora

E nella tua minore età scortése
Di sì folta gli aggravi, e sì vinosa
A' tuoi teneri rami, oltre lor forze
Prole, che il verno già ne pave e suda.

nal, Magalotti has here scarcely made
Not having understood the origi-
himself intelligible.

Driade.
At v. 573, Druids is rendered

The last two hundred lines of this
book are omitted; and about thirty
ed, in which he takes an opportunity
on a different subject are substitut-
of praising some cider sent by Lord
Somers to Henry Newton, British
Envoy to the Duke of Tuscany. It
is pleasant to reflect that the notice
the men eminent for literature in his
of Lord Somers was not confined to
compliment paid him in a poem, call-
own country; and that the pretty
ed, as well as we remember, "the
Shade of Pope," may be so much
further extended.

The muse her Addison to Somers join'd,
The noblest statesman to the purest mind.

At the beginning of the second
book there are again some verses
substituted, not at all in Philips's

manner.

B. ii. v. 276. As when, &c.

This simile is mal-treated by Magalotti, who makes a conceit and antithesis of it; and again, we have a great hiatus from v. 486 to the end. With some few exceptions, however, the sense is caught pretty well in this translation, and the diction is sufficiently poetical (but when is this not the case in Italian verse?) but we meet with here and there a conceit in it, and no writer is less responsible for such blemishes than Philips: on the whole, it proves that Magalotti had profited well by his connexion with this country.

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