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not only in Westmorland, but-believe us—in all the world.” Our oid aequaintAnces, the two Pikes of Langdale are easily recognized. On the left is Bowfell, a square-topped hill, between which and the Pikes, Great End and Great Gable peep up. On the left of Bowfell, the summit of Scawfell Pike is faintly visible. The road is intersected two miles from Bowness by the Kendal and Ambleside road, at a place called Cook's House, nine miles from Kendal. A road proceeds into Troutbeck in a line with the one over which we have been conducting the tourist. From Cook's House to Troutbeck Bridge is almost a mile. From this place a road conducts by the west bank of the stream to the village of Troutbeck, the nearest part of which is a mile and a half distant. Continuing our progress towards Ambleside, Calgarth, embosomed in trees, is passed on the left. The late Bishop Watson built this mansion, and resided here during the latter years of his life; it is still occupied by his descendants. Two miles beyond is Low Wood Inn, which, standing pleasantly on the margin of the lake at its broadest part, is an excellent station for those who are able to devote a few days to the beauties of the neighbourhood. Most of the excursions recommended to be made from Ambleside may, with almost equal advantage, be performed from this inn. Close at hand is Dove's Nest, the bouse Mrs. Hemans inhabited one summer. Her description of the place, taken from her delightful letters, will not be deemed uninteresting :-" The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne, which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced-rose trees spreading into wildness-laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I cannot help saying to myself, ' Perhaps some heart like my own in its feelings and sufferings has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately ander the window, descenda ing to a small court, with a circular grass-plot, on which grows one tall whiterose tree. You cannot imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglected-looking tree. I am writing to you from an old-fashioned alcove in the little garden, round which the sweet-briar and the rose-tree have completely run wild; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror.
"I am so delighted with the spot, that I scarely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being overshadowed by anything like sadness."
Wansfell Holm (J. Hornby, Esq.) is seen on the right, immediately befors reaching the head of Windermere. The road for the last three or four miles has been alternately approaching to and receding from the margin of the lake, but never retiring further from it than a few fathoms. At Waterhead is the neat residence of Mr. Thomas Jackson, and further on, Waterside (Mr. William Newton,) is passed on the left.
A mile beyond is Ambleside, afterwards described, from which we continue our perambulation. Passing Croft Lodge (J. Holmes, Esq.) on the right, Brathay Bridge is crossed at Clappersgate, one mile from Ambleside, and shortly afterwards Bratbay Hall, (G. Redmayne, Esq.) is seen on the left. A bay, called Pull Wyke, there makes a deep indentation; and looking across the lake, Wansfell Holm, Low Wood Inn, and lower down, Calgarth, the seat of the late Bishop Watson, are pleasing objects. Wansfell Pike and the Troutbeck Hundreds tower above them. The road to Hawkshead having deviated to the right, the village of High Wray is gained, five miles from Ambleside; and three miles beyond is the Ferry Inn. At this place the shores suddenly contract, and between the two promontories a public ferry is established, by means of which, passengers, cattle, and vehicles are conveyed across the lake at a trifling charge. About the year 1635, a marriage was celebrated at Hawkshead, between a wealthy yeoman from the neighbourhood of Bowness, and a lady of the family Sawrey of Sawrey. As is still customary in Westmorland amongst the rustic population, the married couple were attended by a numerous concourse of friends, some of whom were probably more than cheerful. In conducting the bridegroom homewards, and crossing the ferry, the boat was swamped, either by an eddy of wind, or by too great a pressure on one side, and thus upwards of fifty persons, including the bride and bridegroom, perished. While at the Ferry Inn, the tourist should not fail to visit the Station, a pleasure house belonging to Mr. Curwen of Belle Isle, standing on a spot whence fine views of the circumjacent scenery are commanded. "The view from the Station," says Professor Wilson, " is a very delightful one, but it requires a fine day. Its character is that of beauty, which disappears almost atterly in wet or drizzly weather. If there be strong bright sunshine, a blue breeze' perhaps gives animation to the scene. You look down on the islands wbich are here very happily disposed. The banks of Windermere are rich and various in groves, woods, coppice, and corn-fields. The large deep valley of Troutbeck stretches finely away up to the mountains of High Street and Hill Bell-hill and eminence are all cultivated wherever the trees have been cleared away, and numerous villas are visible in every direction, which, although not perhaps all built on very tasteful models, have yet an airy and sprightly character; and with their fields of brighter verdure and sheltering groves, may be fairly allowed to add to, rather than detract from, the beauty of a scene, one of whose chief charms is that it is the cheerful abode of social life.” At a short distance from the land is Belle Isle, upon which stands
"A Grecían temple rising from the deep."
the residence of H. Curwen Esq. The island is rather more than a mile in cir cumference, containing upwards of thirty acres. Neat walks, over which fine trees throw their massive arms, intersect the island, which in high floods is cut in two. Strangers are allowed to land ; and as the views are extremely pleasing, they should avail themselves of the privilege. The village of Bowness is a pretty object on the east margin of the lake. * One mile and a half from the Ferry Inn, the stream called Cunsey, which runs from Esthwaite Water,
• This island was formerly the property and residence of the Philipsons, an ancient Westmorland family, who were also owners of Calgarth. During the civil war between Charles I. and the Parliament, there were two brothers, both of whom had espoused the royal cause. The elder, to whom the island belonged, was a Colonel, and the younger a Major in the royal army. The latter was a man of high and adventurous courage; and from some of his desperate ex. ploits had acquired amongst the Parliamentarians the appellation of Robin the Devil. It happened when the king's death had extinguished for a time the ardour of the cavaliers, that a cer. lain Colonel Briggs, an officer in Oliver's army, resided in Kendal, who having heard that Major Philipson was secreted in his brother's house on Belle Isle, went thither armed with his double authority, for he was a civil magistrate as well as a military man
Great on the bench, great in the saddle,
And styled of War as well as Peace, with the view of making a prisoner of so obnoxious a person. The Major, however, was on he alert, and gallantly withstood a siege of eight months, until his brother came to his relief. The attack being thus repulsed, the Major was not a man who would sit down quietly under the injury he had received. He therefore raised a small bund of horse and set forth one Sunday morning in search of Briggs. Upon arriving at Kendal, he was informed that the Colonel was at prayers. Without further consideration he proceeded to the church, and having posted his men at the entrance, dashed forward himself down the principal aisle into the midst of the assemblage. Whatever were his intentions-whether to shoot the Colonel on the spot, or merely to carry him off prisoner—they were defeated : his enemy was not present. The congregation was at first too much surprised to seize the Major, who, in discovering that his object could not be effected, galloped up the next aisle. As he was making his exit from the church, his head came violently in contact with the arch of the door-way, which was much smaller than that through which he had entered. His helmet was struck off by the blow, his saddle girth gave way, and he himself was much stunned. The congregation, taking advantage of the confusion, attempted to seize him; but with the assistance of his followers, the Major made his escape after a violent struggle, and rode back to his brother's house. The helmet still hangs in one of the aisles of Kendal
church. This incident furnished Sir Walter Scott with a hint for his dekcription of a similar adventure in Rokeby, canto vi.
" All eyes upon the gateway hung,
When through the Gothic arch there sprung
is crossed. At a short distance from the place where this stream joins the lake, is the island called Ling Holm. On the opposite margin, the Storrs promontory is seen projecting into the lake. Two miles beyond is the village of Graithwaite, in the vicinity of which is Graithwaite Hall, (J. J. Rawlinson, Esq.) From this place to Newby Bridge the road passes through a woodland section of the country, consisting chiefly of coppices. As the foot of the lake is approache, it narrows rapidly and becomes truly
" Wooded Winandermere, the river-lake." Landing, (John Harrison, Esq.,) is passed on the left shortly before reaching Newby Bridge, at which there is a comfortable inn. The stream which issues from the lake takes the name of the Leven. From this place to the principal towns in the neighbourhood, the distances are :-Ulverston, eight miles. Kendal, by way of Cartmell Fell, ten miles-by Levens Bridge, fifteen miles. Ambleside, by the road we have described, fifteen miles. Bowness, nine miles. On crossing the bridge, Mr Machell's neat residence is seen on the right, and further on, Fell Foot, (- Starkie, Esq.,) is passed on the left ; a short distance beyond, Town Head, (Wm. Townley, Esq.,) is near the road on the left, about two miles from Newby Bridge. The road passes under an eminence of the Cartmell Fell chain, called Gummer's How, which forms a conspicuous object in all views from the upper end of the lake. Six miles from Newby Bridge is Storrs Hall, the mansion of the late John Bolton, Esq. (now Rev. T. Stanaforth). seated amongst fine grounds which extend to the margin of the lake. It was built by Sir John Legard, Bart., but extensive additions were made by its late owner. Here Mr Canning was wont to pay frequent visits, withdrawing for a time from the cares of public life to breathe the fresh air of nature.* The road
The second clear'd the chancel wide,
While yet the smoke the deed conceals,
All Wycliffe's soldiers waked at once." The following passage from Mr Lockhart's Life of Scott graphically describes one of these visits, to which the presence of Wordsworth, Southey, Scott, and Professor Wilson gave peculiar interest.
"A large company had been assembled at Mr Bolton's seat in honour of the minister-it included Mr Wordsworth and Mr Southey. It has not, I suppose, often happened to a plain English merchant, wholly the architect of his own fortunes, to entertain at one time a party embracing so many illustrious names. He was proud of his guests; they respected him, and hanoured and loved each other; and it would have been difficult to say which star in the constellation shone with the brightest or the softest light. There was 'high discourse,' intermingled with as pay flashings of courtly wit as ever Canning displayed: and a plentiful allowance on all leading from Kendal to the ferry is next crossed, and soon afterwards Ferier Green (George Greaves, Esq.), Burnside (G. A. Aufrere, Esq.), and Belle Field, (Mark Beaufoy, Esq.), are successively passed immediately before Bowness, the termination of our perambulation of twenty-nine miles is regained.
[Inns :-Salutation; Commercial; White Lion.) AMBLESIDE, a small and irregularly built market-town of 1592 inhabitants, is situate on steeply inclined ground, a mile from the head of Windermere, upon or near to the spot formerly occupied by the Roman Station - Dictis. Lying immediately under Wansfell, and surrounded by mountains on all sides, except towards the south-west the situation is one of great beauty, and consequently during summer it is much frequented by tourists, who make it their abode for some time. There are several inns; two of which, the Salutation and the Commercial, are excellent establishments. The chapel is a modern structure, having been rebuilt in 1812. In a field near the edge of the lake, are the indistinct remains of Roman fortifications, where coins, urns, and other relics, have been frequently discovered. Numerous excursions may be made from Ambleside ; and the interesting walks in the immediate neighbourhood are still more abundant
The valley of Amblevi le, on the border of which the town stands, is rell n'ooded, and watered by several streams ; the principal river is the Rothay, which flows from Grasmiere and Rydal Lakes, and joins the Biathay, shortly be fore entering Windermere. Upon STOCK Gill, a tributary to the Rothay, there is a fine fall, or force, in a copsewood, about 700 yards from the Market Cross, the road to which passes behind the Salutation Inn. The fall, or rather falls, for there are four, are 70 feet in height. Portions of all four are visible from the usual stand ; but the views may be pleasingly varied by descending the bank to the stream, or proceeding farther up the Gill.
LOUGHRIGG FELL, a rocky bill which rises opposite to the town, to an elevation of 1000 feet above Windermere, commands extensive prospects of the vale and surrounding mountains, as well as of Windermere, Grasmere, and Ryda! Lakes, Blelham, Loughrigg, and Elterwater Tarns, with the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead. sides of those airy transient pleasantries in which the fancy of poets, however wise and grave delights to run riot when they are sure not to be misunderstood. There were beautiful and accomplished women to adorn and enjoy this circle. The weather was as Elysian as the scenery, There were brilliant cavalcades through the woods in the mornings, and delicious boatings on the lake by moonlight; and the last day, Professor Wilson ("the Admiral of the Lake, 'as Canding called him,) presided over one of the most splendid regattas that ever enlivened Windermere Perhaps there were not fewer than fifty barges following in the Professor's radiant procession when it paused at the point of Storns to admit into the place of honour the vessel that carried kind and happy Mr Bolton and his guests. The three bards of the lakes led the cheers that hailed Scott and Canning; and music, and sunshine, flags, streamers, and gay dresses, the merry num of voices, and the rapid splashing of innumerable oars, made up a dazzling mixture of sensations as the flotilia worind its way among the richly-foliaged islands, and along bays and promontories peopled with enthusiastic spectaturs."