The various routes to Furness Abbey.-Lancaster Sands.-Newby Bridge.-Ulverstone.-Conishead Priory.-Gleaston Castle.Furness Abbey.-The splendour of its Abbots.-Dalton.

FURNESS ABBEY, Ulverstone, and the whole of that small but beautiful peninsula lying between Morecambe Bay and the mouth of the Duddon, and known as the district of Furness, are rarely allowed to remain unvisited by the tourist to the Lakes. Some start direct to Ulverstone from Lancaster, before proceeding to Ambleside, taking the road over Lancaster Sands. The latter, which are extensive

and in some parts dangerous, are laid two or three feet under water every tide; but when the sea retires, the passage is quite practicable, although the assistance of a guide is not only advisable, but necessary. The view from them is peculiarly grand and striking. Looking southwards we see the point and village of Heysham, with Peel Castle, further away, guarding the entrance of the Bay of Morecambe. Looking to the right hand, are Wharton Crags, already mentioned, Arnside Tower, the ancient residence of the Stanleys, and Silverdale; and, rising in grand confusion, the jagged peaks of the mountains of Westmoreland. As we, however, in our peregrination did not take this route, but proceeded from Ambleside, down Windermere, to Newby Bridge, it is sufficient to mention the fact of its existence; and refer those who may wish to take it to the guide books, for all such particulars as are either essential or interesting. Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere, promises but few attractions; and, indeed, this portion of Windermere,-beautiful as it would be considered were there no upper part of the Lake to monopolize the admiration of the traveller, -is seldom praised, and perhaps seldom seen. Yet, though there is little at Newby Bridge to detain the traveller, the man who is determined to be pleased, may find opportunity. From the summit of a wooded hill, which overlooks the Inn, there is a most enchanting view of lovely

Windermere, surrounded by the lordly mountains of Coniston, Langdale, Loughrigg, Nab Scar, Fairfield, Silverhow, and their magnificent compeers. Between Newby Bridge and Ulverstone, a distance of about eight miles, are the villages of Haverthwaite, East Coulton, Egton, and Newland, none of them in any way remarkable. Ulverstone, however, is a place of some importance. Let any one who wishes to see it to advantage ascend a little hill above it. My companion, in a letter, thus described his impressions, "Tired of the dirty drizzle which had been falling ever since I left Ambleside tired also of housing myself at Ulverstone, to avoid it, I sauntered listlessly out without any very definite purpose, and mounted the hill. As I reached the summit, the rain ceased, the sun shone out, the clouds dispersed, and what a lovely prospect lay before me. Immediately beneath lay the beautiful old town, which has rather a novel appearance to the stranger from its prevailing red tint, derived from the iron ore for which its neighbourhood is famous. The plain sombre old church-tower, and the slow blue smoke-wreaths 'curling up to the sky' combined to give an aspect of serenity, quietude, and gravity to the town, in admirable keeping with the stedfast and somewhat sombre hills which overlook it. To the northward stretched a rich woodland, from which emerged the distant turrets of Conishead

Priory, and southwards lay Morecambe Bay with its dazzling expanse of waters. The gleaming monotony of the sea was broken by a few sail of fishing craft, and a little wooded island, where the water begins to narrow to the river's mouth, just beyond Leven Sands. On turning round, a very different scene presented itself. Instead of a flat shining horizon, were piled the black fells, the Alps on Alps, in whose neighbourhood I had been spending so many pleasant days,—huddled in sublime confusion." Ulverstone, the modern capital, as it is called, of the district of Furness, to which dignity it has been promoted in the lieu of Dalton, superannuated, contains a population of about 5000. Its name is vulgarly pronounced Ooston; by some derived from one Ulphus, who governed in the west parts of Deira or Yorkshire, and who is supposed to have extended his conquest over the whole of the Furness district. It is neat and well-built, and situated on the sides of declivities sloping gently towards the south. A very high antiquity is claimed for it; but, the first mention of it is in 1127, when it was conferred, with the manor attached to it, on the abbey of Furness, by King Stephen, the founder of that monastery. It is situated about a mile and a half from the channel of the Leven, with which it is connected by a canal, constructed in 1795, under the direction of Mr. Rennie. Vessels of 400 tons bur

then can navigate it up to the town, and discharge their cargoes on the extensive wharfs surrounding a capacious basin or dock. Its trade, though not of striking amount, is respectable. There are thirtythree vessels belonging to the port, whose aggregate registry is 2136 tons, and the average number of vessels that clear inwards and outwards is 600, with a tonnage of about 30,000. Its chief manufactures are cotton, linen, check, canvass, sacking, and sailcloth, and candlewicks; and its exports besides these are principally the iron and copper ores, and slates of the surrounding district. The church dedicated to St. Mary, stands pleasantly on a hill. It was enlarged and nearly rebuilt in 1804, and consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles. The east window represents the four Evangelists and Christ rising from the sepulchre, after Rubens; and the altar piece is the Taking Down from the Cross, after Sir Joshua Reynolds; both of which were presented by the lay Rector, Mr. Braddyll, of Conishead Priory. The town and neighbourhood abound in striking and beautiful views, and one especially from the back of the old workhouse is universally admired. Swarthmoor Hall and Conishead Priory in the immediate vicinity, both merit the attention of the visitor who is not pressed for time. The first was the residence of the celebrated Judge Fell, the great supporter of George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends,