on the rocks, which were the greatest curiosities of the place. The guide-book having made no mention of them, we were the more anxious to see what they were, and were rowed ashore accordingly, at a point not far from Lowood Inn. Here we found every smooth surface afforded by the rocks-every slab on the stratified formation,-covered with inscriptions, engraved with much toil, in letters varying from six to twenty or twenty-four inches in height. On one large red stone of at least ten feet square, was engraved "1833. MONEY. LIBERTY. WEALTH. PEACE";-a catalogue of blessings very much to be desired. On another stone was the simple date "1688:" expressive enough of the engraver's political sentiments.And on another in larger characters, "A SLAVE LANDING ON THE BRITISH STRAND, BECOMES FREE. All the largest stones, and slabs, some of which were horizontal, others vertical, and the rest inclined at various angles, and the whole of them giving evidence that the place had formerly been a quarry—were covered with inscriptions of a like purport. The following are a few of the most striking. One immense surface of rock bore the following names, which are transcribed in the original order. "SUN. BULWER. DRYDEN. DAVY. BURNS. SCOTT. BURDETT. GARRICK. KEMBLE. GRAY. KEAN. MILTON. HENRY BROUGHAM. JAMES WATT. PROFESSOR WI

ILSON. DR. JENNER." To which were added the

E

"THE

words in characters equally conspicuous, LIBERTY OF THE PRESS." "MAGNA CHARTA." This slab was a testimony apparently, of the engraver's admiration of great intellect. One close alongside of it was of a different style and bore the date "1836," followed by the words, "WILLIAM IV. PRESIDENT JACKSON. LOUIS PHILIPPE. BRITANNIA RULES THE WAVES." Next to that again was a still larger surface of rock on which was indented, "NATIONAL DEBT £800,000,000. O SAVE MY COUNTRY, HEAVEN! GEORGE III. AND WILLIAM PITT." "MONEY IS THE SINEW OF WAR. "FIELD MARSHAL WELLINGTON. HEROIC ADMIRAL NELSON. CAPTAIN COOK. ADMIRAL RODNEY." One stone, at least eight feet square, bore but one word in letters a yard long, and that was significant enough-viz. "STEAM." On enquiring of the boatman, who it was that had expended so much labour, he pointed out another stone, on which were the words "John Longmire, Engraver," and informed us that it was a person of that name, who had spent about six years of his prime in this work - labouring here alone, and in all weathers — and both by night and by day. He took great pleasure in the task and was, as the boatman took pains to impress upon us, rather "dull" at the time. This phrase as he afterwards explained, implies, in this part of the country, that he was deranged; and I thought when looking with renewed interest upon

these mementos of his ingenuity and perseverance, missapplied though they were, that it was a happy circumstance that an afflicted creature could have found solace under calamity, in a manner so harmless. There was a method in the work, and a sense, too, in the poor man's ideas, which showed that his sympathies were in favour of the moral and intellectual advancement of mankind; and that, amid the last feeble glimmerings of his own reason, he could do honour to those whose intellect had benefited and adorned our age. I could learn no further particulars of him,-our friend, the boatman, not being able to say whether he were dead or alive, or whether his " dulness had ever manifested itself in a more disorderly manner than in these inscriptions.

When we left the quarry it had become too late to proceed to Bowness, as was our first intention, and we reluctantly turned back towards Waterhead; but I afterwards made this excursion alone, in the "Lady of the Lake," and was amply repaid for the trouble, by the view of this elegant little town, the chief port of the lake, and often preferred by visitors to Ambleside itself. From this point the islands (Belle Isle or Curwen's Isle being the most prominent) are seen to greater advantage than at any other; and the whole extent of the lake, both northward and southward, is visible in all its beauty.

Calgarth House, in the immediate vicinity, embowered and finely sheltered, and commanding a splendid view of the lake, deserves mention as the residence of the amiable Bishop Watson, who built the mansion, and resided in it for the closing years of his life.

Rayrigg, within three quarters of a mile of Bowness, was the residence of William Wilberforce, a still more illustrious person; and is looked upon with reverence by every pilgrim to these romantic shores. By some it is said to resemble Voltaire's mansion of Ferney, on the Lake of Geneva. In 1788, the last year of Wilberforce's residence in this beautiful spot, he writes to a friend :

"I never enjoyed the country more than during this visit, when, in the early morning, I used to

row out alone, and find an oratory under one of the woody islands in the middle of the lake.”

He repeatedly invited his friend Mr. Pitt, to share for a few weeks, or even days, the delights of a country life with him here, but the premier was invariably prevented by the all-absorbing duties of his high station, from taking the relaxation which he would have enjoyed so much.

We determined early next morning to visit the Coniston Water, a small but exquisitely beautiful lake, about eight miles from Ambleside. There are two ways of reaching it,-one by taking the boat to the ferry-house, a little lower down than Bowness, on the opposite side of Windermere, passing the still smaller lake of Esthwaite, or as the country people pronounce it, Estitt, and the small market-town of Hawkshead, making a circuit altogether of fifteen miles. The other road is the direct one, and leads round by the head of Windermere, crossing both the Rothay and the Brathay, and by Low Park, through a little frequented road, direct to the very comfortable inn at the head of the water. We chose the latter route, and hiring a chaise from our host of the Salutation, drove out at six in the morning, to breakfast at Coniston. The road we took afforded views of very varied and lovely scenery at every turn. We lost sight of Windermere completely, but caught a glimpse of Esthwaite as we proceeded, shining in the