Imatges de pàgina
PDF
EPUB

is well worth the trouble of a visit: it is pretty thickly inhabited, contains several natural curiosities, and the view of the whole of the Northwest coast from its lofty cliffs is really very fine. Sea-fowl and sealshooting are the chief sports it affords. When the tide is out, the people can walk from the mainland to the island. The marble quarries are also well worth a visit. The beautiful variegated sea-green slabs which they yield are conveyed to Galway, and thence manufactured into tables, chimney-pieces, &c. which sell at a very high rate.

The Connemara ponies are very fine sure-footed animals. Some of the best have a good dash of the Arabian in them, and are beautifully proportioned. We met, near the marble quarry, a man bringing home from the mountains one of these scarce-tamed creatures: it was a cream color, with white mane and tail, nearly three years old, had never been in training, and as it pranced along the road, shewing its graceful figure to advantage, I was almost tempted to purchase, which I should have done were it not for the difficulty of conveying him to Londonthe price was only eight pounds.

On our return to the inn, we found the place in a state of indescribable confusion. The devil had fairly got among the doctors, and as the election was to take place next day, the rage and animosity to each other of the seven wise men of the temple of Esculapius momentarily increased. The spirit of party feeling amongst the mob, who seemed to have no other concern about the matter but that of electing a Lynch or a Blake, kept pace with the growing hatred of the professional Gentlemen: and as every now and then a batch of the

Sons of the mountain came down with their vote,
Chimariot, Illyrian, and wild Suliote!

we could hear the cry of "High for Blake!" which was immediately answered by the opposition with "High for Lynch!" The rest of the candidates seemed to attract no attention from the mobility, with the exception of one irritable dapper little man, who, from some act of petulance on his part, had the felicity of being burned in effigy before the windows of the inn, with a string of pill-boxes and a clyster-bag tied round his neck. When we entered, the doctors were sitting round the dining-table in grave silence. They seemed glad of the opportunity of making a move in favor of their visitors, and as we took our seats at the table, Blake gave me a wink which was not to be mistaken. It would occupy too much space to enter into the laughter-exciting incidents of that eventful evening. The admirable precision with which my mischief-making companion threw his combustibles amongst the inflammable gents around him, who sat like so many dogs snarling for a bone, had the desired effect. When the dew began to circulate, their wrath waxed greater; droll speeches were delivered, in which all present seemed to join, until at length the chairman had to request that only half a dozen should speak at a time! The uproar, tumult, and general confusion that followed this request is indescribable. The chairman was charged with partiality, and that he only wished to hear one side of the question at issue, namely, "who was the best qualified for the vacant situation?" He was accordingly unseated sans ceremonie, and my friend Blake was by universal consent elected to preside

over the enlightened meeting. Words cannot describe what followed; suffice it to say, that there were no lives lost, and that the doctors disappeared next day, and order was restored in the town by the election of a Gentleman who was not present at the uproarious orgies.

My next Sketch, with which I propose to conclude the sports of Connemara, will be occupied principally with descriptions of the Lakes and Pass of Kylemore, and of the salmon fishery at the Killeries and at Delphi.

ERINENSIS.

SECOND SERIES OF SCENES AND SPORTS IN FOREIGN

LANDS.

BY LIEUT.-COLONEL E. NAPIER, 46TH REG,

A TRIP FROM GIBRALTAR TO THE OPPOSITE COAST OF AFRICA,

[merged small][ocr errors][merged small][ocr errors][merged small]

IN our last Chapter we left a joyous party revelling under the spreading branches and close dark foliage of the ilex trees overshadowing the "Ain-é-sdeed," or New Fountain, whose murmuring waters, diffusing a refreshing verdure around as they flowed towards the setting sun, were now employed by the party seated on their flowery margin in cooling sundry bottles of Xeres and Malaga, with which they were recruiting their wearied frames.

But let us endeavour to describe the position we had taken up, and where we were so comfortably bivouacked.

The construction of the Ain (fountain) was probably the charitable act of some pious Mussulman, who, ere he took his departure for the abode of the houris, had endeavoured thus to atone to posterity for many a deed of treachery, rapine, and falsehood, with which he may have had to reproach himself during a long and mis-spent lifetime. But no matter as to its origin; the New Fountain occupied one of the most enviable sites imaginable even in this most delightful of climates. It was situated on the summit of a thickly-wooded ridge connecting the distant and snow-capped Atlas with the hilly Peninsula*, of which Mons

This part of Western Barbary is inhabited by an aboriginal set of Berbers, of whom little is known, who scarcely acknowledge the authority of the Emperor of Morocco, and who are of so unruly and treacherous a disposition that no European has yet ventured to penetrate their fastresses, which may therefore still be regarded as "terra incognita."

Abila form the apex, the coasts of the Mediterranean the sides, and the road between Tetuan and Tangiers the base.

From Tetuan the path, as already described, wound through a verdant valley, along the banks of an oleander covered stream, flowing in an easterly direction, until it reached the foot of that spur of the Atlas on which stood the Ain. Here the scenery suddenly changed: from green fields of waving barley and rich pasture, from the gaudy flowers of the oleander, the gum cistus, and rhododendron, on which the eye had long feasted, it suddenly encountered the "brown horrors and deep shade of the ilex and noble cork trees, throwing their protecting branches across the steep and ravine-ltke path, which now, resembling the dry and deserted bed of a mountain torrent, led the weary traveller over huge and crumbling masses of rock, and across the gnarled and protruding roots of trees, to the summit of the Pass, where the Fountain poured forth its cool and limpid waters, gently meandering down the opposite declivity to the westward, and fertilizing the boundless plain of waving verdure, which appeared to stretch to the very shores of the Atlantic and the cave-worn rock of Cape Spartel.

But in our admiration of inanimate nature we have hitherto overlooked the group who were then enjoying under a sunshiny and cloudless sky, and fanned by a refreshing breeze, all the benefits which bountiful Nature appeared to have so profusely scattered at their feet. Let us therefore call the roll, and march past in review order those who compose it for the inspection of the indulgent reader.

It will be recollected, that on escaping from drill and pipe-clay at Gibraltar, we had made up our minds to enjoy to the utmost the few days of liberty which so gladly opened before us: however, it was written that even our relaxation should be observed according to military rule, and scarcely had the felucca on which we embarked gracefully swung round Europa Point, and launched into the current of the Straights, when all hands were piped on deck to form a council of

war*.

Amongst the members of this assembly were to be recognised two or three old acquaintances. Sandy's red nose shone forth with its accustomed splendor, putting us, however, in some slight trepidation on account of our ammunition and powder-flasks. The "King" inhaled the fragrant weed with becoming majesty; but the life and soul of the party was the Marquis, so denominated from claiming the high advantage of being a sprig of nobility, proving himself a very good-natured but idle scion of the same, who had come out to Gib in order to spend his money, destroy time, and kill ennui. In fact, I believe the Marquis to have been, in conjunction with old Hadge, the principal mover and promoter of this same " African Expedition." He had come out to the blue waters of the Mediterranean well crammed with the legendary

A strong current invariably sets from the Atlantic through the Straights of Gibraltar. Vessels entering them at night with a westerly wind, and failing to fetch the latter port, are often carried round Point Europa, and sometimes remain for weeks, as it is denominated, "back-strapped" on the eastern side of the Rock, until a "Levanter" wind enables them to contend against the current, and weather Europa Point. Many theories have been adduced to account for this great influx to an inland sea, already abundantly supplied with water by the discharge of so many large rivers into its basin.

VOL. XXV.-Second Series.-No. 150.

3 K

lore of Spanish and Moorish story, and forgetting that the good old times of chivalry and romance had long since departed this life, he was frequently led to imagine himself the Cid, Don Quixote, or at least a Gil Blas. Nor did we fail, as will be shewn in the sequel, to extract abundant matter of amusement from those strange fancies of a man, who was otherwise endowed with no ordinary degree of intelligence and information. Another important member of the expedition was a corpulent little Military Gentleman, whom, from some real or fancied resemblance to that illustrious personage, we had denominated Mr. Pickwick. Mr. T., a civilian, old Hadge Mahomet, the Moorish merchant, and the Author completed the council of war which assembled on the confined deck of the felucca, now gaily dancing o'er the crested billows of the Straights, as she rapidly scudded before the favoring breeze, which bellied out her huge latine sails, and with the aid of the current drove her along at the rate of eight or ten knots an hour.

The long and deep debates of this learned assembly need not be here recorded: suffice it to say, that the Author was dubbed Generalissimo and Commander-in-Chief of the " African Expedition," and his first act of authority was to order an immediate inspection of the commissariat stores, which important department was consigned to the charge of Mr. Pickwick. Sandy was appointed Assistant Adjutant-General to the Forces, with the local rank of Colonel; whilst little George, the young tiger of the Marquis, on taking the shilling, was immediately exalted to the grade of "Orderly Corporal."

It appeared from an attentive survey of the commissariat that we might safely indulge in a tiffin, which was accordingly soon spread on the deck, and almost as speedily demolished; after which the soothing weed, and the amusing stories of old Hadge-all relating to the country we were about to visit-whiled away the few hours which elapsed ere we came to ancher in the Martine river.

Our inland navigation, debarkation, and halt at the Custom House has already been described, the only event which marked our first night on the African shore being some irregularities committed by the Assistant Adjutant-General, who, unfortunately, got into that state of excitement commonly known by the name of intoxication, for which breach of military discipline the General-Commander-in-Chief was pleased to dispense with his further services on the Staff, and to appoint as his successor the Marquis, who felt not a little proud at his unexpected advancement in military rank.

Mention has already been made of the beautiful daughters of mine host Bendurlack at Tetuan, the stately Esther and the fascinating Seemah; but we have not stated what effect their charms, or at least those of the latter, had on the susceptible Marquis.

The first day of our arrival had not elapsed ere he was securely netted in Cupid's toils. Unfortunately, however, he was not acquainted with either Spanish or Arabic, the only tongues in which the fair Jewesses were conversant; and although he fancied he had done wonderful execution with the language of the eyes, still that occasionally failing to convey the meaning of his burning sighs, I was often begged by my Adjutant-General to be the medium of expressing in that most appropriate of languages, the sonorous Castilian, those soft tender nothings he intended for her listening ear.

Being thus made a confidant ensured me an endless source of amusement; and as reclining on rich carpets at the feet of the lovely sisters, and translating à ma façon the dulcet sayings of the Marquis to his love Seemah, I managed occasionally, on my own account, to put in a word or two aside for the dark-eyed Esther.

With the usual proneness of women on such occasions they slyly lent themselves to my design of "trotting out" the Marquis, who at last became so desperately in love that he consulted me as to the best way of making his proposal in due form, and whether I considered it would be derogatory to his dignity for him to take unto himself "for better for worse" so charming a creature, who, although a Barbarian, appeared to unite in her own dear person all the amiable qualifications of her sex.

"My dear fellow," replied I, "so far from it, I think she would be an ornament to the British Nobility; and only conceive what a sensation she would cause, hanging lovingly on your protecting arm, at Almack's, in all the splendor of her Eastern accoutrements !"

This idea appeared to tickle him amazingly, and to clinch his nearly fixed purpose of speaking to "Pa." It was not, however, my intention to allow the joke to go thus far; and we were interrupted in a long conversation on the subject by Mr. Sandy, who informed me that Hadge had some communication of importance to make.

On repairing to Hadge's apartment I found the old gentleman very comfortably seated on his carpet, in company with Mr. Pickwick and the King, and by their laughter-looking countenances appearing to enjoy something amazingly.

On being admitted into the council, Sandy, who acted as spokesman, stuttered out as follows:-"You know, General, the partiality the Marquis has to the kilt, and how proud he is of what he considers his good leg: now we want, on the strength of this, to have a regular rise out of him: old Hadge has promised his aid on the occasion, and we only await your Excellency's permission to carry the same into effect."

"I have no objection," replied I, "provided it be not in breach of good order and military discipline: but let us hear the scheme."

He then explained that Hadge had promised to obtain us an interview with the Basha Hash-Hash, at which the Marquis was to be paraded" sans culottes," previously undergoing the operation of having his legs shaved!

This was too good a joke to lose, but I suggested, that as he would never agree to the latter part of the business whilst in his sober senses, we had better defer the whole proposal until after dinner, when we should have plied him with a little wine. This plan, which was agreed to, succeeded admirably: with a little flattery he was easily persuaded that his appearance without inexpressibles would be most imposing; at the same time we hinted that as Hash-Hash entertained a great aversion to hairy legs, the assistance of soap and razor would be most advisable, and to this he also consented, provided that I would likewise submit to the operation, to which I immediately acceded.

Barbers were therefore placed in requisition. On their arrival, I retired with one of the knights of the soapsuds into an adjoining room, where, instead of allowing him to commence operations, I began after a short time to be loud in my complaints as to his extreme awkwardness

« AnteriorContinua »