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SATURDAY, AUGUST 30, 1828. PRICE 8d. fermentation in the barrels has entirely ceased, from the greater part of their dregs and tartar. it is racked off, and care is taken to fill up In England, every one being long accustomed Classification and Description of the Wines of what has been consumed by evaporation, as to drink strong Port wines, Madeira, and heady Bordeaux, &c. By M. Paguierre. 12mo. often as possible, and this operation ought to Spanish wines, the pure wines, such as we pp. 164. Edinburgh, 1828. Blackwood. take place at least once or twice a-week. When gather them, are not so much esteemed; beThe Anatomy of Drunkenness. By Robert you wish to make Muscat wine, the grapes (as cause they are found, in comparison with the Macnish. 12mo. pp. 202. Glasgow, W. R. with the other white wines) are left till quite others, not sufficiently strong tasted, and too M-Phun. ripe, and the stalks of the bunches are twisted cold. Our natural wines, however, are inSCOTLAND is certainly the place where the on the vines, so as not to convey any more finitely preferable for the health, to the spiritmost interesting philosophical inquiries are nourishment from the root, in order that they ous, heady Spanish wines; the Bordeaux wines, carried on in our times, and whence the most may become a little withered and dried in the especially, are highly recommended by the favaluable literary productions are issued to an sun; these grapes are afterwards gathered, culty for the sick, and those menaced by con.. admiring world. These two small, but vastly pressed, and the must is left to ferment; but sumption, or suffering from inflammation in the important, volumes are evidence of the facts. as this juice is glutinous and syrupy, the sun chest. But in order to give the Bordeaux In the first, an "Ancien Courtier de Vin" having deprived it of a great part of its water, wines some resemblance to those wines of Spain (which may be interpreted, a stanch old lover this operation takes place imperfectly. The and Portugal which are used in England-to of wine), spreads out before his readers the Muscat wine can be made only in warm coun- render them of the taste preferred in that kingwhole extent of that Eden where the vine is tries, as in Languedoc and Provence, where the dom, from the effect of long habit the greatest cultivated on the banks of the Gironde, whose sun has great force. The best wines are from part of our wine-merchants who trade with liquid treasures cheer the heart of man in so Frontignan and Lunel: to be good they ought England are obliged to work them, that is to many far distant lands. In the last, a Glasgow to be rather pale white, glutinous, of a musky say, to mix them with other wines by means physician (and no town in his majesty's domi- odour, having a sweet and strong taste. The of a particular operation. This is the reason nions ought to furnish better judges on ques-Spanish wines, as well as all those used as why, in general, the wines shipped for England tions of drinking) has had the kindness to liqueurs, are made in a manner similar to are not pure, and can no longer be known to enlarge upon the excellent effects of tippling, that of the Muscat.” be the same, when compared with those which not, however, without (as doctors must always In managing and preserving these wines, we remain at Bordeaux, such as they are produced be cautious) throwing in a few dampers re- learn, "whenever a cask of wine is drawn off, in the department of the Gironde. The operaspecting the possible bad consequences of in- it is necessary to rinse it, and to burn in the tion consists in mixing a certain quantity of dulging too often in very prodigious excesses. cask a match of sulphurated linen, suspended Hermitage, and other kinds of fine strong wines Having carefully perused both volumes, and by a little hook to hold it in the barrel. This of the south, which give fire to the Claret, but confirmed their truth by the necessary com- precaution of burning the match is necessary which reader it dry when old, turn it of a brick potations, our known philanthropy induces us to preserve the wine from all fermentation, red colour, and cause a deposit of sediment to bring their merits into wider notice; and we which might be occasioned by the great heats, when it has been some time in bottle. When trust the result will be, that no reader of sense as also sometimes by the too great colds. The by the effect of mixing several sorts of wines, will rise from our Review with the hideas of a size of the match must be in proportion to the Cockney friend of ours, who declares that he force of the wine, to its delicacy, or age: the disapproves of drinking, because it is of an older it is, the less sulphur is necessary. The eating quality ;-at any rate, that vine always white wines require most sulphur, because they eats him. are the most apt to ferment or fret." a working or fretting results which might injure the quality, they take some mineral crystal, reduce it to powder, and put an ounce into each barrel, beat up with a proper quantity of isinglass, and rack off the wine about fifteen First, then, with regard (and a very sincere The wine is racked off four times in eighteen days after, when it has got clear, and has regard, too) to the wines of Bordeaux,-a very months after being made; the fourth racking entirely ceased to work. To give odour (boudifferent article from any thing of the Bord-de- is in March: "it is then that the casks may quet) to the wine, they take two drams of l'eau kind, they consist of the following cap-be stowed with the bung at the side, after the orris-root (racine d'iris) in powder put into a tivating varieties:cooper has fixed four hoops of iron at least fine rag, and let it hang about fifteen days in "For red wines of the first class: Le Car- on each-namely, two at each end; and the the cask; after which it is taken out, because menet, la Carmenère, le Malbeck, le Petit wooden hoops must also be new. The casks the wine has then acquired sufficient odour; Verdot, le Gros Verdot, le Merlot, and le Mas- having once the bung in the side, have no you may also, if desired, put the powder into soutet.-For red wines of the second class, longer need to be filled up; and are only the barrel, beat up with fining, and fifteen and common wines: Le Mançin, le Tein- visited once in six months, in March and turier, le Balouzat, la Pelouille, le Cioutat, la October, in order to be racked, as mentioned Petite Chalosse noire, le Cruchinet rouge, and above. It is to be observed, that when the le pied de Perdrix. — The species for choice wine has attained the age of five or six years, white wines are named: Le Sauvignon, la it does not want drawing off oftener than once Malvoisie, la Prunilla, le Semillon, le Blanc Verdot, le Muscadet doux ou résinotte, la Chalosse dorée, le Cruchinet blanc, and the white Muscat. The common white sorts are: La Blanquette, l'Enrageal ou pique poux, le Blaguais, and la grosse Chalosse blanche, with the Verdot gris." (Not verdigris, be it remembered.) Of the manufacture, we have only to notice, that "to make the white wine, it is not, like the red, put into the vat to ferment, but the grapes are trod; and when taken from the press, the juice, skins, and seeds, are put into casks (the stalks having been separated): here it ferments and becomes wine of itself. When the a-year, which in this case is done in the month Touching the consumption of these wines days after, it may be racked off. Many persons, to make the wine appear older and higher flavoured, and at the same time to prevent the injuring its quality, employ raspberry brandy (esprit framboisé): in this case the dose is two ounces for each cask; this spirit is well mixed with the wine, and fifteen or twenty days after, the wine has acquired a certain degree of apparent maturity, which is increased by a kind of odour which this mixture gives it. The bouquet which by these means is given to the common or ordinary wines never replaces perfectly the natural flavour which distinguishes our choice wines of Medoc and Grave, which ought to embalm the palate. It is very easy to distinguish the fictitious bouquet which has been given to the wine, if you have ever so little habit of tasting; for the smell of the iris, as well as the raspberry, always predominates in the wines which have been worked, and forms a striking contrast with the natural fla- | annually imported, they could nevertheless sell vour of the same wines. "The best growths of Bordeaux are those of Lafitte, Latour, Chateau Margaux, Haut Brion, and Mouton." About 200,000 tuns are produced in ordinary years, at the expense of nearly two millions sterling." quite as much genuine Champagne, Burgundy, Having now completely informed our readers 66 The "Drunkenness (continues the Doctor, impressing its multitudinous deserts upon our minds) drunkenness has varied greatly at different times, and among different nations." It prevails to a much greater extent in northern than in southern latitudes. nature of the climate renders this inevitable, "The vineyards in this department which and gives to the human frame its capabilities produce the first growths are situated on the of withstanding liquor." This accounts for border of the Landes (the sandy districts), and the moral and physical superiority of the once formed part of them. Öther wines are Glass-go, as may readily be imagined, has northern over the southern nations. In the gathered from the high grounds, between the long been famous for its tippling glories. one, the people are all nerve, energy, entertwo rivers (l'entre deux mers), and in the allu- Years ago, when we knew it, there was prise, valour; in the other, nothing but enervavial flats which border the Garonne and Dor-hardly a citizen, a manufacturer, a merchant, a tion, weakness, lassitude, and cowardice. Then, dogne. The district of Medoc furnishes the baillie, or a lord rector, who did not toil through how easily is your Southron intoxicated! first growths in its upper (or southern) division. the fore and afternoon with the most laudable Upon constitutions so differently organised, These wines possess, in an eminent degree, a Scots diligence and industry, but cheered by it cannot be expected that a given portion of union of the best qualities of those of other the promised, the certain symposia of the stimulus will operate with equal power. The countries, viz. colour, perfume, taste, and sa- evening; for, ever after these dry details of airy, inflammable nature of the first (i. e. the lubrity; hence the true connoisseur esteems the world's affairs, would they, as the poet Southron) is easily roused to excitation, and them highly. They are named Chateau Mar- Dryden expresses it, manifests feelings which the second (i. e. the gaux, Latour, and Lafitte, and are all three "Then hasten to be drunk, the business of the day. Northman) does not experience till he has parequal in reputation and in commercial value. In short, it might fairly be said that punch taken much more largely of the stimulating There are many other excellent growths, which was the primum mobile which caused the city's cause. On this account, the one may be inare classed as first, second, third, and fourth motto to be triumphantly realised, and made ebriated, and the other remain comparatively class; each of these classes has (like the first)" Glasgow flourish." Educated in such an in- sober upon a similar quantity. In speaking its most distinguished growths." spiriting arena, Dr. Robert Macnish comes be- of this subject, it is always to be remembered We will not go into the distinctions of Palus fore the public with high claims to be con- that a person is not to be considered a drunkard or flat-country wine, Queyries that produced on sidered oracular on the subject of drunkenness, because he consumes a certain portion of alluvial grounds, Côte from hill slopes, and though we cannot help thinking there is some liquor, but because what he does consume Grave from gravelly or sandy soil: the two arrogance in his phrase of anatomising it. produces certain effects upon his system." former are chiefly exported to the Indies and Burton might anatomise melancholy, or Mr. And on this hypothesis the Doctor is fiercely the north of Holland; and sometimes, like Brookes might anatomise Thurtell; but to indignant against the French, who are only so such strong coarse brandied wines as those of anatomise the system of drinking, trace the little more towards the south pole than the Cahors, serve to give colour, &c. even to the circulation of the bottle as you would of the English are. "Who (he exclaims) ever heard finest sorts of Medoc! Much of the worst of blood, analyse the various humours about the of an Englishman sipping eau sucrée, and Cahors, mixed with white, and also the lowest social table, as if they were lymph, or serum, treating his friends to a glass of lemonade? of St. Macaire (Bordeaux), are consumed in or bile dissect the involutions and ramifica. Yet such things are common in France; and Paris and Bretagne and Russia and Prussia tions of the fanciful brain, as if it were in a of all the practices of that country, they are those are large purchasers of them. When half and caput mortuum,—bah! not even a Glasgow most thoroughly visited by the contemptuous half brandy they are called raugome. It is doctor could succeed in the demonstrations.malisons of John Bull." And so they ought— curious to remark, from the returns in 1823, Our author, however, shews considerable but having thus denounced modern folly, the that," owing to our high rate of duties, Eng- talent; and, by way of beginning well, has author enthusiastically reverts to the good old land, the richest country in Europe, uses less the name of Make-fun as his publisher, and times, which he paints with all the gusto of a French wine than even the poorest nation, if dedicates his book to a Greek letter-Delta, true jolly toper." "It is (he observes) a comwe except Sweden. Hamburgh alone takes whose "sincere friend" he declares himself to mon belief that wine was the only inebriating above eight times as much as the British Isles." be, and professes for it "every sentiment of liquor known to antiquity; but this is a But what signifies that, according to the pre-admiration." He then goes gaily at his sub. mistake. Tacitus mentions the use of ale or sent extensive practice in London among the ject, and commends the antiquity and univer. beer as common among the Germans of his rascals who sell cheap compositions under the sality of drunkenness. time. By the Egyptians, likewise, whose names of foreign wines. If only one tun, in- "Drunkenness (quoth he) is not, like some country was ill adapted to the cultivation of stead of about a thousand tuns, were to be other vices, peculiar to modern times. It is the grape, it was employed as a substitute for "The first growths of Burgundy are La Romance-handed down [qu. round ?] to us from hoar wine. Ale was common in the middle ages; Conti, Le Chambertin, Le Richebourg, Le Clos Vougeot, antiquity;' and if the records of the antedilu. and Mr. Park states that very good beer is La Romanée de St. Vivant, Ta Tache, and Le Clos St. Georges, Département de la Côte d'Or. After these the vian era were more complete, we should probably made, by the usual process of brewing and following are quoted, as being superior to the second class find that it was not unknown to the father of malting, in the interior of Africa. The fawines: Le Clos de Premeau, Le Musigny, Le Tart, Les the human race. The cases of Noah and Lot, vourite drink of our Saxon ancestors was ale bonnes Marres, La Roche, Les Verrailles, Le Clos Majot, Le Clos de St. Jean, and Le Clos de la Perrière, these recorded in the sacred writings, are the earliest or mead. Those worshippers of Odin were so likewise are in the Département de la Côte d'Or."-"The of which tradition or history has left any re- notoriously addicted to drunkenness, that it most esteemed wines of Dauphiny are known by the names cord; and both occurred in the infancy of was regarded as honourable rather than otherground of l'Hermitage, Département de la Drome." But society. Indeed, wherever the grape flourished, wise; and the man who could withstand the great part of the wines of the second class differ little from inebriation prevailed. The formation of wine greatest quantity was looked upon with ad. those of the first, and are substituted for them in com- from this fruit was among the earliest dis- miration and respect: whence the drunken merce. "Those of Champagne are delicate, and of a silky softness; they quickly affect the head, but their songs of the Scandinavian scalds : whence the effects soon pass away, and they are generally esteemed to be wholesome. The wines of the Lyonnais differ from It thus appears that Adam is suspected by glories of Valhalla, the fancied happiness of those of Dauphiny, in having rather less body, and more Dr. Macnish of sipping a sup now and then ;whose inhabitants consisted in quaffing draughts liveliness (de feu), are delicate and agreeable. The pro- Noah first took to water and afterwards took Even ardent spirit, which is generally supbriskness and vivacity. Those of Avignon have much and it is clear, on the same authority, that from the skulls of their enemies slain in battle. more colour, body, and spirit, than some of the others, to wine, a change not to be wondered at, re-posed to be a modern discovery, probably but is deficient in delicacy and perfume (bouquet). The membering the immense quantity of the for- existed from a very early period. It is said to In Champagne-Verry, Verzenay, Mailly, St. Basle, Bouzy,mer with which he had to deal. These must have been first made by the Arabians in the and le Clos St. Thierry. In Burgundy-Corton, and parts have been very aguish times; and even lower middle ages; and in all likelihood may lay of the growths of Vosne, Nuits, Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, down in the stream of human generations, we claim to a still remoter origin. The spirituous Chambolle, Morey, Savigny, and Meersault. The Côtes of Olivotes, Pitoy de Perrière, and des Preaux; the Clos accordingly find Lot following the common liquor called arrack has been manufactured in of Chainette and Migrenne, Le Moulin à Vent, les Torins custom of his kind,-or, as Pope says, the island of Java, as well as in the continent et Chenas. In Dauphiny-Le Tain and l'Etoile. In the Lyonnais-La Côte Rotie. Of Bordeaux-Rosan, Leoof Hindostan, from time immemorial. Brandy ville, Gorse, La Rose, Pichon, Longueville, Calon, Cawas made in Sicily at the commencement of pelle, Margaux, &c. In the Comtat d'Avignon-Le Coteau the fourteenth century. As to wine, it was Brulé. In Bearn-Le Jurançon de M. de Perpigna; Les so common in ancient times as to have a Vins de Gan, and de Biville. In Roussillon-Calliourne, Bagnols, and Casperan." tutelar god appropriated to it; Bacchus and of Meal, Greffier, Bessac, Beaume en Raucoulé, on the duce of Bearn is strong and heady; that of Roussillon has principal growths of the second class wines are as follow: coveries of man." "He was but born to try The lot of man-to tipple,* and to die." I think Pope says suffer, not tipple.-Printer's Demon. his companion Silenus are as household words vided, it would not be consumed in much larger himself, to wear his head lighter than usual in the mouths of all, and constituted most im- quantities than at any former era of the world, upon his shoulders. Then a species of obportant features of the heathen mythology. however renowned in history. Even as it is, scurity, thinner than the finest mist, passes We have all heard of the Falernian and Cam- Dr. Macnish allows that there are still some before his eyes, and makes him see objects panian wines, and of the wines of Cyprus and [many gallant] persons who will be drunkards, rather indistinctly. The lights begin to dance Shiraz. Indeed, there is reason to believe in spite of all that can be done to prevent and appear double. A gaiety and warmth are that the ancients were in no respect inferior them. Some are drunkards by choice, and felt at the same time about the heart. The to the moderns in the excellence of their others by necessity. The former have an in- imagination is expanded and filled with a thou vinous liquors, whatever they may have been nate and constitutional fondness for liquor, and sand delightful images. He becomes loqua. in the variety." drink con amore. Such men are usually of a cious, and pours forth, in enthusiastic lanThe Doctor next points out the guilt and sanguineous temperament, of coarse unintel-guage, the thoughts which are born, as it folly of that notorious impostor, Mahomet; lectual minds, and of low and animal propen- were, within him. Now comes a spirit of uniand the vile and beastly ignorance that pre-sities. They have, in general, a certain rigid-versal contentment with himself and all the vailed during what are justly called "the dark ity of fibre, and a flow of animal spirits which world. He thinks no more of misery; it is disages." other people are without. They delight in the solved in the bliss of the moment. This is the "Wine was so common (he remarks) in roar and riot of drinking-clubs; and with them, acme of the fit-the ecstasy is now perfect." the eastern nations, that Mahomet foreseeing in particular, all the miseries of life may be re- What can we add to this glowing eulogy? the baleful effects of its propagation, forbade ferred to the bottle. The drunkard by neces- Nothing! Long may Dr. Macnish, and often it to his followers, who, to compensate them-sity was never meant by nature to be dissipated. may he, enjoy the full luxury of those delights selves, had recourse to opium. The Gothic, He is, perhaps, a person of amiable dispositions." he has so redolently painted!and may it be our or dark ages, seem to have been those in which This passage occurs in Chap. II. upon the happy fortune, before we die, to meet him where it was least common: in proof of this, it may causes of drunkenness, among which the Doc- we may troll, after the old Laird of Pennycuik, be mentioned that so late as 1298, it was tor takes no notice whatever of thirst. As for Though this night we drink the sea, The morn we'll still as drouthy be. vended as a cordial by the English apothe-his Calvinistic doctrine of being drunkards by caries. At the present day it is little drunk, necessity, it may do for the predestinarians of except by the upper classes, in those countries the West of Scotland-the posterity of the old which do not naturally furnish the grape. In Covenanters-but would be scouted in more those that do, it is so cheap as to come within the reach of even the lowest." down to their libations." These friendly and Memoirs of the Rev. S. Parr, LL.D. Vol. II. By the Rev. W. Field. 8vo. pp. 483. Lon. don, 1828. Colburn. grand. civilised regions, where men drink from choice. But there are some customs which the Doctor, WHEN the first volume of this work was pub. We have little to add to this panegyric, we presume, has observed about Glasgow, lished, last January, we briefly noticed it, and except that we cordially approve of the de- that redeem this blot. For instance: "ma- promised to review it more at large when the nunciation of the cheat of Mecca for seducing son-lodges are true academies of tippling". second and concluding volume should appear; his deluded followers from wine into lauda- and "husbands sometimes teach their wives to and this we now do, though, we confess, with num; and that we are obliged to the Doctor be drunkards by indulging them in toddy, and very little predilection for the task-especially for elucidating a new cause for the deplorable such fluids, every time they themselves sit after having had to express our opinion upon prostration of intellect in the Gothic times, the intermediate Parriana of Mr. Barker. Mr. when drinking "was least common !" Field, having enjoyed thirty-six years of inti Approaching to our own age, the author macy with Dr. Parr, seems to be well fitted to laments the falling off in the descendants of add the most minute particulars to the very Odin's worshippers. He says, "if we turn minute biography of that individual; and, acfrom antiquity to our own times, we shall find cordingly, we find that he has considered nolittle cause to congratulate ourselves upon any thing to be too small or insignificant for record. improvement." Alas! this is too true; and But surely this is like preaching over one's His first volume seems to be principally com. we partially impute it, with the learned Doc- liquor; and we have said enough to recommend piled from Maurice's Memoir, the New Monthly tor, to the mal-practices of the adulterers of Dr. Macnish's work to the whole reading and Magazine, the Public Characters, the Biblio every liquor that is sold to the public. "It drinking world. We shall therefore say little theca Parriana, the Spital Sermon, and other would be well (he observes) if the liquor vended more, except to express our sorrow, that by familiar publications, both of the learned docto the poor possessed the qualities of that fur- one cruel observation, at page 27, the author tor and of other persons; and to possess very nished by the contraband dealer; but, instead severely injures the reputation of four distin- little of originality. Such documents, indeed, of this, it is usually a vile compound of every guished men, and utterly annihilates the long- as lay claim to that character, are represented thing spurious and pestilent, and seems ex- established fame of two. In Chap. III., how-to be in the custody of Dr. J. Johnstone of pressly contrived for the purpose of preying ever, he rallies, as if it were the third bottle; Birmingham (who is thus enabled to make upon the vitals of the unfortunate victims who and he declares, "the pleasures of getting eight instead of two volumes), and of the Rev. partake of it. The extent to which adultera- drunk are certainly ecstatic. While the illu J. Lynes, whom Mr. Field styles the " tion has been carried in all kinds of liquor, is, sion lasts, happiness is complete; care and son-in-law," by marriage, of Dr. Parr, and who indeed, such as to interest every class of so- melancholy are thrown to the wind, and Ely. is Dr. Johnstone's co-executor to the will as ciety. Wine, for instance, is often impreg-sium, with all its glories, descends upon the well as co-adjutor in the literary part of these nated with alum and sugar of lead, the latter dazzled imagination of the drinker. Some posthumous labours. Dr. Johnstone also boasts dangerous ingredient being resorted to by inn- authors have spoken of the pleasure of being of a forty years' friendship with Dr. P., and of keepers and others, to take away the sour taste completely drunk: this, however, is not the being his physician; while in the struggle for Alum and most exquisite period. The time is when a pre-eminency as to the right of acting the biosugar of lead are also common in spirituous li- person is neither drunken nor sober, but grapher, he and his associates consider Mr. quors; and in many cases, oil of vitriol, turpen- neighbour to both,' as Bishop Andrews says in Field as an interloper, thrusting himself into tine, and other materials equally abominable, his Ex-ale-tation of Ale. The moment is their business, and even making impertinent are to be found in combination with them. when the ethereal emanations begin to float requests for their assistance (refer to Field, That detestable liquor called British gin, is around the brain-when the soul is commen. Vol. I. pp. 180, 190, and 301). Nor is this all: literally compounded of these ingredients; nor cing to expand its wings and rise from earth Mr. Field is a Unitarian minister at Leam, are malt liquors, with their multifarious nar- when the tongue feels itself somewhat loosened near Warwick, and at the head of a large cotic additions, less thoroughly sophisticated or in the mouth, and breaks the previous tacitur- school where children of that persuasion are less detrimental to the health." nity, if any such existed. What are the sen- taught; and he is, we are assured, very highly That we persevere at all in drinking, in de-sations of incipient drunkenness? First, an prized by his dissenting brethren for his zeal as fiance of these nefarious and dangerous inno- unusual serenity prevails over the mind, and well as for his learning. It is not surprising, vations, is indeed highly praiseworthy; it shews the soul of the votary is filled with a placid Considering this, there seems to us to be a very odd that the bibacious spirit is not subdued, though satisfaction. By degrees he is sensible of a soft blunder on the part of the learned gentleman at page 75, it is modified and controlled by the dread of and not unmusical humming in his ears, at which may be shared between him and a pupil of Dr. poisons. But so far are we from confessing Parr's, whom he quotes without a comment on his error. "In reading a Greek or Latin author (says this wellto the existing degeneracy of the human race, taught pupil of his master) a stream of illustration issued that we deem it would be a foul libel upon, and an "Voltaire and Fontenelle used coffee. The excite- from him. When we were up at Virgil with him, he indelible disgrace to," the march of intellect,' ments of Newton and Hobbes were the fumes of tobacco; thundered out, ore rotundo, all the passages which the while Demosthenes and Haller were sufficiently stimu-poet had borrowed, and whilst he borrowed, adorned, to suppose, that if really good drink were pro-lated by drinking freely of cold water." Monstrous! from Homer and Apollonius the Herodian," Who this so common in bad wines. every pause of the conversation. He seems, to |