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AN ADVENTURE IN AVA.

BY MAJOR CALDER CAMPBELL.

It was on the 24th of February, 1826, that at Yandabû, in the kingdom of Ava, a treaty of peace was ratified between the British and Burmese nations. My health, which, from the hardships and exposure attendant on a long and harassing campaign in the "land of the stranger," had been for several months very precarious, rendered a return to the shores of Madras indispensable; and now that peace began to wave her olive-boughs over those plains, which had for so long a period witnessed the ruthless conflicts of war, I was anxious to return to Rangoon, thence to embark for Madras, in search of that health for which change of scene and situation are often so vainly tried. To proceed by land, a distance of three hundred miles, was out of the question, overrun as the country was by desperate ruffians, in whose eyes the enforced peace, which the victor army had wrung from the Golden Feet, would have appeared but as an instigation to the cruellest atrocities. The river, though not free from pirates, presented the best means of proceeding, and I was advised to wait until the departure of that portion of the troops which formed the water-party should warrant my safety. But too ill to think seriously of danger, and too willing to leave a campaign, whose only charm-that of warfare-was extinct, I refused to delay my voyage, and left Yandabú on the 6th of March, in a small canoe, manned by Burman boatmen, accompanied by two servants and an invalid sepoy.

I shall never forget the bright beneficent beauty of that morning, as, bidding adieu to my brother officers, I stepped into the frail and fairy bark which was, I hoped, to convey me in safety to Rangoon. The banks of the Irawaddi, that fine majestic stream which pursues its magnificent progress through a most unhappy country-even as the rays of the bright sun rest upon the dwellings of the wretched-were lined with people; soldiers, European and native,-sailors, higgling for fresh fish and vegetables,-sutlers, vending their scanty and coveted stores at exorbitant charges,-Burmese, Siamese, Chinese, all were there! and on the countenances of the soldiers the eye of imagination might trace the gleam of pleasure, as anticipations of a speedy abandonment of a country, which might in truth be called "the soldier's grave," flitted across their thoughts.

It

Above, too, the sky was as pure and unclouded as though the peace that reigned there was but the reflection of that which dwelt below. was a delightful day-and I sat under the wattled canopy of my skiff, plunged in that delicious chaos of thought which so nearly resembles the transitory and unsatisfactory raptures of the opium-eater. However, as twilight-like a fond and careful nurse, wrapping her patient in a dark but warm mantle-began to enrobe all nature in her dim array, the excitement of my feelings subsided; and as I gazed around me and found myself in my lone and tiny bark in the midst of the wide river, on which not another object was discernible, darker thoughts and feelings returned to my breast, even as carrionbirds will flock back at nightfall to their wonted roost! Darkness

crept on-slowly, but steadily, and a brisk, uncertain breeze sprang from the gathering clouds ;-it increased-still increased, until I noted that my boatmen would gladly have got rid of it, and began to look out for a fitting shore near which to moor their vessel. The river was presently fuming, like an angry thing,-and as the banks which we neared rose bluff and precipitous from the water's edge, they showed, in the sheet lightning which played capriciously around, like the battlements of some Gothic fortalice, amidst the gloomy recesses of an ancient forest. By this time the gale had grown to a storm, and alarm found its way to every breast.

The surly sough of the wind,-the unpleasant motion of the canoe, tossed angrily by the surges, that whirled up their spray insultingly in our faces, the harsh screams of the affrighted water-birds around us, -I recollect them all! Suddenly, we struck against the bank; the canoe was filled in a moment with the overpowering element; and wet and frightened, we were all on shore, and scrambling up from the water before we were quite conscious of what had happened.

The Burmans, however, had probably suspected such an occurrence; for they managed to rescue my few valuables, consisting of my stock of clothes, a liquor-case, and my humble breakfast-service, from the stranded skiff, at the very moment when she was swamped; but, on examination we found that she had suffered injury so material, as to render her totally useless. Our sensations were not very agreeable, but lamentation was needless, and in the darkness and the gale which still continued, I thought rest the most advisable thing. A glass of brandy was distributed to each person,-eatables there were none, except some uncooked rice, and a little wet biscuit and sugar: for our stock of fowls, and other provender, had been seized as lawful "loot" (booty) by the naïads of the stream. So, wrapping myself in my boat-cloak, wet as it was, I lay down under the shelving sandbank; whilst my attendants, at several yards' distance, were scattered about, murmuring at Our misfortunes, accusing "Naseeb" (destiny), of unparalleled cruelty, or trying to court the influence of that "sweet restorer," to which I paid my addresses in vain. The gale died away; I was wet, and cold, and could not sleep, so I watched the moon rising from her bed of clouds,-the gradual tranquillization of the waves, as they lowered their white crests in the moonlight, and listened the while to the casual gusts of the abating wind, as it passed through the jungle above the bank. I closed my eyes, but strange mysterious apprehensions arose, thick and black, within me; and a warning voice bade me "not to sleep." It was Presentiment! It was that undefinable "shadow of coming events!"

Presentiment is the Fetch of danger!

The night was now brilliantly clear; but the moon, that "mistress of the diseased mind," shed a ghastly light on the waters. It reminded me of the flash of a torch on the shining ornaments of a coffin-lid! There were strange noises, too; from the sky came, ever and anon, the sudden wail of some night-bird; from the earth, in the background, the howl of the wolf and jackal; and from the waters of the Irawaddi, more impressively solemn in that lone hour, than all the rest, was heard the frequent and fitful leapings of the porpoises-for porpoises are not rare in this gigantic stream, even at this great distance from the sea. I can

not account for the singular horror with which the sound created by this fishy creature in its struggles for fresh air, filled me. The leap from the waves-the long audible gasp it made while sucking in the breeze, and its plunge back into the stream! That gasp-I hear it now-was like the deep and painful breathings of a suffocating man! My Burman crew were whispering and muttering in a corner aloof from the other servants, and I asked them, in their own dialect, the name of the creature which had so annoyed me. The word "Lebine" was given in reply, and it was the last I heard that night.

A dreaminess stole over me, and I was fastly sinking into forgetfulness, when a ringing noise in my ears, a stunning blow on my head, accompanied by the flashing as of a hundred daggers, deprived me of all sensation. I have an indistinct remembrance of hearing a frightful shriek (it must have been my own), of starting up-of seeing dark shapes around me-of a gleaming instrument-but no more! I remained insensible for, as I was afterwards told, half an hour; and when I came to myself, I was stretched on the brink of the river, surrounded by my servants, who were wailing over me as lost for ever. I tried to rise, but sank down again on the sands; my eyes were blinded, with what at first I conceived to be water poured over me-it was blood! I raised my hand, and felt that there was a deep and large wound in my head. Recollection returned with growing sickness, and I perceived that none of the Burmese boatmen were with us. I was soon made aware of how the case stood.

The Burmans, seeing my poor stock of baggage at their mercy, incited by their indomitable love of plunder, and beguiled by the gaudy glitter of a Queen's-metal coffeepot, which doubtless they conjectured to be silver, watched the opportunity, when they imagined we were all asleep, to fulfil the double purpose of serving themselves, and gratifying their bitter hatred of the kulas (foreigners) who had conquered their Emperor and his hosts. My Lascar, whilst in a state between sleeping and waking, was aroused by the whisperings of the boatmen, and his suspicions being awakened, he resolved on watching their movements. Suddenly he observed the Llèthogee, or steersman, a gaunt and hideously ugly man, arise and approach stealthily to where I lay asleep; two of his comrades crept to a remote corner of our bivouac, where my baggage was placed; and near which, the sick sepoy and my maty (body-servant) slept. After stooping over me for an instant, as if to assure himself of my repose, the Lithogee raised his arm, and the terrified Lascar then saw, that in his hand was a dâh, or large woodknife. A blow was given-a shriek was heard; and just as the stroke, which had been impeded by the folds of my boat-cloak, was about to be repeated, the Lascar sprang upon the assassin, and succeeded in wresting the weapon from him, though not before his two thumbs were nearly severed from his hands in the struggle. The alarm was now, however, general; and the steersman and his associates, alike baffled, took to flight. The other boatmen had succeeded in carrying off the paltry spoil, for which they had so readily dyed their hands in blood, though not without opposition, for the sepoy was slightly wounded in the head before he could seize his bayonet. My Madras maty escaped with a few severe blows, for he had rolled himself up in a thick cumly (blanket), and when awake, had wrestled manfully with his particular

assailant; for I have omitted to state, that the exact number of the Burmans, was four.*

What a night did we pass there, on that unknown beach! I had lost a great quantity of blood, and was so faint and sick, that I lay almost inanimate, until a light was struck; when my servant contrived to stanch the blood that continued to well from the wound, with re-. peated applications of burnt rag. Day at length dawned; welcome day! Never more welcome than now it was to us! The most distressing vertigo prevented me from walking without assistance; we had nothing to eat--our canoe lay rent and useless in the water; and presently the sun burst forth with a maddening heat.

What a long, long day that was! and with what dread did we loɔk forward to the approach of night, another night in that inhospitable and perilous coast! To have attempted to penetrate into the country, knowing it to be inhabited only by those who would have prided and pleasured in murdering us, would have been madness; our sole resource then was, to watch on that strand for some boats proceeding down the river, from the grand army.

Day began to decline, and hope with it, when lo! the Diana steampacket hove in sight, like a dove bearing glad tidings. A cloth was fastened to an oar, and from the steepest part of the bank, it was wildly, desperately waved! I crept close to our flag of distress, watching the issue of our plan. The packet neared-it was opposite-is it not still opposite? Alas! it has passed!

Night was drawing near; brown shades tinged the inland junglethe mina's shrill voice sounded louder as it sought its lair-painted moths and butterflies disappeared, whilst myriads of mosquitoes and other night-insects hovered around us. The clusters of the gorgeous daturas that sprang profusely around, looked wan and flaccid in the twilight, whilst their huge blossoms closed their cups in sleep. On the other hand, the plentiful mirabilis jalapa, opened wide its bright crimson petals, emitting the richest odours. A deep silence reigned in our little group, which was at length broken by the loud exclamation of

the Lascar:

"Yaillahi, Sahib! dekho !" (Oh! Allah! behold, sir!) It was one of our row-boats! Our signals were renewed-were beheld! A skiff was sent ashore, and in it I perceived, with a joy I cannot paint, a gentleman whom I had met before, Mr. Lindquist.

We were taken on board. My eyes first rested on the thin, attenu-: ated form of a lady—a white lady! the first white woman I had seen for more than a year! she was standing on the little deck of the rowboat, leaning on the arm of a sickly-looking gentleman, with an intellectual cast of countenance,-in whom I at once recognised the husband or the brother.

His dress and 'bearing pointed him out as a missionary. I have said that I had not beheld a white female for many days; and now the soothing accents of female words fell upon my ears, like a household

*On that same day, some forty miles beyond where we were attacked, Lieutenant Addison, of the Madras army, whilst proceeding up the river in charge of commissariat stores, was shot from the long grass skirting the Irawaddi, and instantly expired.

hymn of my youth. My wound was tenderly dressed, my head bound up, and I was laid upon a sofa-bed. With what a thankful heart did I breathe forth a blessing on these kind Samaritans! with what delight did I drink in the mild, gentle sounds of that sweet woman's voice, as she pressed me to recruit my strength with some of that "beverage which cheers but not inebriates!" She was seated in a large sort of swinging chair, of American construction, in which her slight, emaciated, but graceful form, appeared almost ethereal. Yet with much of Heaven, there were still the breathings of earthly feeling about her, for at her feet rested a babe-a little, wan baby, on which her eyes often turned with all a mother's love; and gazing frequently upon her delicate features, with a fond yet fearful glance, was that meek Missionary, her husband! Her face was pale, very pale; with that expression of deep and serious thought which speaks of the strong and vigorous mind within the frail and perishing body; her brown hair was braided over a placid and a holy brow, but her hands-those small, lily hands, were quite beautiful; beautiful they were, and very wan; for ah! they told of disease —of death-death in all its transparent grace-when the sickly blood shines through the clear skin, even as the bright poison lights up the Venetian glass which it is about to shatter! That lady was Mrs. JUDSON, whose long captivity and severe hardships amongst the Burmese, have since been detailed in her published journals.

me.

I remained two days with them; two delightful days they were to Mrs. Judson's powers of conversation were of the first order, and and the many affecting anecdotes that she gave us of their long and cruel bondage, their struggles in the cause of religion,-and their adventures during a long residence at the court of Ava, gained a heightened interest from the beautiful energetic simplicity of her language; as well as from the certainty I felt that so fragile a flower, as she in very truth was, had but a brief season to linger on earth! Why is it that we grieve to think of the approaching death of the young, the virtuous, the ready? Alas! it is the selfishness of human nature, that would keep to itself the purest and sweetest gifts of Heaven, to encounter the blasts and the blights of a world where we see them, rather than that they should be transplanted to happier regions, where we see them not!

When I left the kind Judson's, I did so with regret. When I looked my last on her mild, worn countenance, as she issued some instructions to my new set of boatmen (for I had procured a fresh canoe), I felt my eyes fill with prophetic tears. They were not perceived; we parted, and we never met again; nor is it likely that the wounded Subaltern was ever again thought of by those who had succoured him.*

* Mrs. Judson, and her child, died soon after the cessation of hostilities.

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