Gill. The village of Buttermere stands on declining ground near the foot of the lake fourteen miles from Keswick. It consists of a few scattered farm-houses, with a good inn, forming, by reason of the surrounding hills, the very picture of seclusion. "The margin of the lake, which is overhung by some of the loftiest and steepest of the Cumbrian mountains, exhibits on either side few traces of human neighbourhood; the level area, where the hills recede enough to allow of any, is of a wild pastoral character or almost savage. The waters of the lake are deep and sullen, and the barrier mountains, by excluding the sun for much of his daily course, strengthen the gloomy impressions. At the foot of this lake lie a few unornamented fields, through which rolls a little brook connecting it with the larger lake of Crummock, and at the edge of this miniature domain, upon the road side, stands a cluster of cottages, so small and few that in the richer tracts of the island they would scarcely be complimented with the name of hamlet." A good road of nine miles, after climbing a Haws 800 feet high, conducts the visitor through the vale of Newlands to Keswick. A small chapel has been erected at the expense of the Rev. Vaughan Thomas, by the road side, upon the site of a still smaller one. The old chapel has been thus described: "It is not only the very smallest chapel, by many degrees, in all England, but is so mere a toy in outward appearance, that were it not for its antiquity, its wild mountain exposure, and its consecrated connexion with the final hopes and fears of the adjacent pastoral hamlet, but for these considerations the first movement of a stranger's feelings would be towards loud laughter; for the chapel looks not so much a miniature chapel in a drop scene from the Opera House, as a miniature copy from such a scene, and evidently could not receive within its walls more than half a dozen households." +

A footpath leading through the fields, and across the little stream connecting the two lakes, conducts to SCALE FORCE, one of the loftiest waterfalls in the vicinity of the lakes. The road, in damp weather especially, is none of the cleanest, and therefore a boat is frequently taken, which lands the visitor about half a-mile from the fall. A mountain path, leaving Scale Force on the left and climbing the fells above it, leads into Ennerdale. Floutern Tarn, which is passed on the way, serves as a land-mark.

Extending the excursion to SCALE HILL, four miles from Buttermere, the road traverses the eastern shore of Crummock Water, passing under the hills Whiteless, Grasmoor, and Whiteside. Melbreak is a fine object on the other shore. From the foot of this mountain a narrow promontory juts into the lake, the extremity of which, when the waters are swollen, becomes insulated. A short distance before Scale Hill is reached, there is a fine view into the sylvan valley of Lorton. At Scale Hill there is a comfortable inn, which for a few days might be made advantageously the tourist's residence. Boats may be had upon Crummock Lake, from which the inn is about a mile distant. Scale Force might be t Ibid.

* De Quincey.

32

visited if not seen previously. One boating excursion at least ought to be taken for the purpose of viewing the fine panorama of mountains which enclose the lake, and which can be nowhere seen to such advantage as from the bosom of the water. Green has pointed out one station for obtaining a fine view, not only of Crummock Lake, but of Buttermere also. It is from a point two or three hundred yards above the promontory under Melbreak; Honister Crag is seen closing the prospect on the north. The lake is three miles long by about three-quarters of a mile broad; its sounded depth is twenty-two fathoms. There are three small islands at the head, but they are too near the shore to add much to the other beauties of the scenery. The small lake called Lowes Water may also be visited. It is scarcely a mile long, and the scenery at its head is tame, but that round its foot is of a magnificent description.

From Scale Hill the tourist may proceed to the town of Cockermouth, the birth-place of the poet Wordsworth, which is seven miles distant-visit Ennerdale Water by way of Lamplugh-or return to Keswick by the vale of Lorton, a distance of twelve miles. This vale, watered by the Cocker, a stream which, issuing from Crummock Lake, joins the Derwent at Cockermouth, presents many charming views. Four miles from Scale Hill, the Keswick and Cockermouth road is entered, near the Yew-tree which Wordsworth has celebrated.

"There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale,
Which to this day stands single in the midst
Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore,
Not loth to furnish weapons for the bands

Of Umfraville or Percy, ere they march'd

To Scotland's heaths; or those that cross'd the sea,

And drew their sounding bows at Agincour,

Perhaps at earlier Cressy or Poictiers.

Of vast circumference and gloom profound,
This solitary Tree !-a living thing
Produced too slowly ever to decay;
Of form and aspect too magnificent
To be destroy'd."

The road commences soon afterwards the long and steep ascent of Whinlatter, from the summit of which the spectator has a noble combination of objects be. fore him,-comprehending Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite Water, Skiddaw, and Keswick Vale. The distance between Scale Hill and Keswick may be shortened by almost two miles, if the road under Whiteside and Grisedale Pike be taken. For the horseman and pedestrian the shorter route is to be preferred, as that part under the mountains forms a terrace, from which, views of Lorton Vale, or the neighbouring hills, and extending even to the Scotch mountains, may be obtained.

WHITEHAVEN.

[Hotels:-Globe; Black Lion; Golden Lion.]

WHITEHAVEN is a market-town and sea-port, seated at the upper end of a small creek on the west coast in the county of Cumberland. It is situate in the parish of St Bees, and contains 18,916 inhabitants. This town has ad

vanced rapidly from insignificance to its present state of prosperity, for in the year 1566 six fishermen's huts were all that bore the name of Whitehaven. This sudden progress in the scale of importance is to be attributed in a great measure to the munificence of the Lowther family, who, having large estates around the town, and valuable possessions in coal underneath it, have liberally come forward on all occasions, when opportunities have occurred, to promote its prosperity.

The chief manufactures are coarse linens, and articles connected with the fitting up of vessels. Ship-building is also carried on to a considerable extent. The port is the second in the county, there being upwards of 200 vessels belonging to it trading with the sea-ports of Great Britain, and with America, the West Indies, and the Baltic, as well as almost an equal number engaged in the coal trade; large quantities of iron and lead ore, grain, and lime are exported. The harbour is spacious and commodious, having seven piers extending into the sea in different directions, and affording ample security for vessels lying within. At the entrance of the harbour there are two light-houses, and a third is situate on the promontory of St Bees Head, three miles to the south-west. A machine, called the patent-slip, erected by Lord Lonsdale, into which vessels are drawn with ease and expedition when repairs are required, deserves a visit. The bay and harbour are defended by batteries, formerly consisting of upwards of a hundred guns, but lately suffered to fall into decay. These batteries received extensive additions after the alarm caused by the descent of the notorious Paul Jones in 1778. This desperado, who was a native of Galloway, and had served his apprenticeship in Whitehaven, landed here with thirty armed men, the crew of an American privateer which had been equipped at Nantes for this expedition. The success of the enterprise was, however, frustrated by one of the company, through whom the inhabitants were placed on the alert. The only damage they succeeded in doing was the setting fire to three ships, only one of which was burnt. They were obliged to make a precipitate retreat, having first spiked the guns of the battery, so that they escaped unhurt to the coast of Scotland, where they plundered the house of the Earl of Selkirk. Since 1803 a life-boat has been stationed here,-which has been the means of saving many lives.

The streets of the town have a neat appearance, being straight as well as wide, and intersecting each other at right angles. A rivulet called the Poe runs underneath the town to the harbour. There are four churches of the establishment besides several dissenting places of worship. The schools are numerous, educating more than 1700 children, nearly 500 of whom are taught at the National School. The Theatre in Roper Street has a handsome appearance; it was erected in 1769. The Workhouse is a large building in Scotch Street. The Harbour Office, in which the affairs of the harbour, docks, and customs are transacted, is a large structure on the West Strand. The Public Office, containing a police office, news-room, &c., stands in Lowther Street. The town now enjoys the privilege of returning a Member to Parliament.