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High Street. Having left the Mortal Man three miles behind, and climbed the side of Kirkstone for some distance, a road through the fields, on the left, will be discovered, which passes in succession three farm-houses, High Grove, Middle Grove, and Low Grove, in Stockdale, and enters Ambleside, three miles from the deviation.

A favourite excursion, with the temporary residents in Ambleside, is that through the two LANGDALES. If the object of the tourist be merely to view the vale of Great Langdale (the finer of the two) with Dungeon Gill Force, and to ascend the Pikes, he will traverse a road perfectly practicable for carriages; but if he desire to see something more of the country, by visiting Skelwith and Colwith Forces, Little Langdale and Blea Tarns, he must be content to go on horseback, in a car, or on foot. This circuit, which we shall describe, is about eighteen miles in length. With the intention, then, of visiting the two Langdales in succession, the tourist will leave Ambleside by the road to Clappersgate, winding on the banks of the Brathay, (near the source of which he will be ere long,) under the craggy heights of Loughrigg Fell. A newly-built chapel will be observed in a charming situation on the south bank of the river. "Sweeter stream-scenery," says Wilson, "with richer fore, and loftier back-ground, is nowhere to be seen within the four seas." A few hundred yards above Skelwith Bridge (three miles from Ambleside) the stream is precipitated over a ledge of rock, making a fall twenty feet in height. The cascade is not so remarkable in itself, as for the magnificent scenery around it. Langdale Pikes have a peculiarly striking appearance. By this bridge the traveller is conducted into Lancashire. in which county the road does not continue for more than a mile before it reenters Westmorland at Colwith Bridge. A short distance above the bridge, the stream, issuing from a tarn farther up, makes a fine cascade called Colwith Force. It is in a dell close to the road, and is about 70 feet high. A stupendous mountain, called Wetherlamb, occupies a conspicuous position in a chain of lofty hills on the south-west. Proceeding, Little Langdale Tarn becomes visible on the left-on the right is Lingmoor, a hill which serves as a partition between the two Langdales. At the termination of the inclosed land, amongst a few trees, are two dwellings, called Fell Foot, seven and a-half miles from Ambleside. One of them was formerly an inn, whereat the gangs of pack-horses were refreshed previous to their ascent of the mountain passes of Wrynose and Hardknot this being the route by which the manufactures of Kendal were transported to the western coast. Taking the road to the right, and ascending some distance between the mountains, a solitary pool of water, named Blea Tarn, is perceived in the bottom of an elevated depression. Those magnificent objects,

the two huge peaks

That from some other vale peer into this,

are the two Pikes of Langdale. The more southern one is named Pike o' Stickle -the other, and higher, Harrison Stickle. Having passed the tarn, the road

winds down a steep descent into the head of Great Langdale, that part of it called Mickleden, through which is the road over the Stake into Borrowdale, being right before the eye. Mill Becks, a farm-house, at which refreshment is usually taken, is soon reached. Here a guide to Dungeon Gill Force, and to the summit of the Pikes, can be obtained. The former is a fall of water, formed by a stream which runs down a fissure in the mountain's side not far above the house. A curious natural arch has been made, by a large stone having rolled from a higher part of the mountain, and got wedged in between the cheeks of rock. Over the bridge thus formed, ladies have been known, like Wordsworth's Idle Shepherd Boy, to possess the intrepidity to pass. Two roads traverse the valley, one of which keeps under the hills on the left, the other takes the middle of the vale ;—the former is to be preferred by those unencumbered with carriages. One mile and a half from Mill Becks, is the little Chapel of Langdale, whence a road strikes up the hill-side, crossing Red Bank into Rydal, or Grasmere. A large sheet of water, lying amongst the meadows, which now comes into sight, is Elterwater Tarn, at the head of which stands Elterwater Hall. The stream feeding the tarn is crossed by a bridge, a short distance above the tarn. Near the bridge are the works of Elterwater Gunpowder Company. A little further in a recess, on the flank of Loughrigg Fell, is Loughrigg Tarn, a lovely spot on which Wilson has composed some beautiful lines. Ambleside is only three miles beyond.

Ambleside abounds with villas. Among them may be named, Fox Ghyll (H. Roughsedge, Esq.), Fox Howe (Mrs Arnold), Rothay Bank (J. Crossfield, Esq.), Oak Bank (C. Robinson, Esq.), The Cottage (H. P. Lutwidge, Esq.), The Oaks (Dr Davy), The Knoll (Miss Martineau), Covey Cottage (G. Partridge, Esq.), Bellevue (M. Harrison, Esq.), Green Bank (B. Harrison, Esq.), Hill Top (T. Carr, Esq.), Brathay Hall (G. Redmayne, Esq.), Croft Lodge (J. Holmes, Esq.), Wanlass How (Mrs Brenchley), Wansfell Holme (J. Hornby, Esq.), Wray Castle (J. Dawson, Esq.), Rydal Hall (Rev. Sir R. Fleming), Rydal Mount (the residence of the late William Wordsworth, Esq.), Glen Rothay (W. Ball Esq.), Allan Bank (Thomas Dawson, Esq.), The Cottage (Mrs. Orrell).

ULVERSTON.

[Inns:-Sun; Braddyll's Arms.]

ULVERSTON, a market-town and port, containing about 6433 inhabitants, situate in that division of Lancashire, termed "North of the Sands," is supposed to derive its name from Ulph, a Saxon Lord. It is about a mile from the estuary of the Leven, with which it is connected by a canal, constructed in 1795, and ca

"There is a spot which you may see

If ever you to Langdale go.

Into a chasm, a mighty block

Hath fallen, and made a bridge of rock :

The gulf is deep below,

And in a basin black and small,

Receives a lofty Waterfall.”

WORDSWORTH.

pable of floating vessels of 200 tons. The appearance of the town is neat, the greater part of the houses being of modern erection. The parish church, dedicated to St Mary, received considerable additions in 1804; but a tower and Norman doorway of the old structure still remain. From the sloping ground behind the church, a delightful view of the bay and neighbouring country may be obtained. A new and elegant church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was erected at the upper end of the town in 1832. Amongst other buildings of recent erection, the Savings' Bank may be noticed. The town contains a Theatre, Assembly Room, and Subscription Library, and two good Inns,-the Sun and Braddyll's Arms. Ship-building is carried on to some extent; and the manufacture of check, canvass, and hats, is a considerable branch of trade.

The Duke of Buccleuch is Lord of the liberty of Furness, of which the Manor of Ulverston forms part.

CONISHEAD PRIORY, the seat of T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq., has been termed, from its beautiful situation," the Paradise of Furness." It is situate two miles south of Ulverston, near the sea-shore, in an extensive and well-wooded park, which is intersected, like most old parks, with public roads, forming a favourite promenade for the inhabitants of the town. The mansion, which has lately been rebuilt in a style of magnificence of which there are few examples in the north of England, occupies the site of the ancient Priory, founded by William de Lancaster, the fourth in descent from Ivo de Taillebois, first Baron of Kendal, in the reign of Henry II. Upon the dissolution of the religious houses, it fell into the hands of Henry the VIII., whose cupidity was excited by the great extent of its landed possessions. The interior of the mansion possesses some good paint. ings of Titian, the Carracci, Romney, Reynolds, and other celebrated painters. HOLKER HALL, a seat of the Earl of Burlington, is placed in a noble park on the opposite shore of the Leven, about three and a half miles east of Ulverston. The noble owner has a good collection of pictures, among which are many excellent paintings by Romney.

Six miles north-east of Ulverston is the village of Cartmell, in which is an ancient church, once a priory, of unusual size and beauty, dedicated to the Vir gin. A short distance from the village is a medicinal spring called Holywell. Six miles and a half to the south-west of Ulverston, in a close valley called Beckansgill, or the glen of deadly nightshade, from that plant being found there in great abundance, are the beautiful remains of FURNESS ABBEY, now belonging to the Earl of Burlington. This abbey was founded in 1127, by Stephen, Earl of Montaigne and Boulogne, afterwards King of England; "This prince conferred the greater part of the district, excepting the land of Michael Fleming, on the Abbey of Furness, by a charter dated 1126, in which, for the first time, the name Furness Fudernesia' or the further ness, is found. By this institution it was held till the dissolution, when it reverted to the Crown, and became part of the duchy of Lancaster. In the year 1662, it was granted by Charles II. to the Duke of Albemarle, and his heirs, with all the rights, priv

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leges, and jurisdictions belonging thereto. The Lordship is now held by the Duke of Buccleuch and Lord Beaulieu, to whom the property of the Duke of Albemarle descended by marriage. In the early part of English history, the Falls of Furness formed the boundary between Scotland and England, and in 1138, a terrrible eruption from the north laid the whole peninsula desolate. The ruins of the castle of Pile of Fouldrey, form a monument of that invasion."*

The ruins amply attest the former magnificence of the structure. The length of the church is 287 feet, the nave is 70 feet broad, and the walls in some places 54 feet high, and 5 feet thick. The walls of the church, and those of the chapter-house, the refectorium, and the school-house, are still in great part remaining, and exhibit fine specimens of Gothic architecture; the chapter-house, 60 feet by 45, has been a sumptuous apartment; the roof, which was of fret-work, was supported by six channelled pillars. The great east window, the four seats near it, adorned with Gothic ornaments, and four statues found in the ruins, are particularly worthy of notice.

By the ebbing of the tide, the sands of Morecambe Bay, lying between Lancaster (hence usually termed the LANCASTER SANDS) and Ulverston, are twice a day, to the extent of several miles, left perfectly dry, except in the channels of the rivers Kent and Leven, and may be crossed by vehicles of every description. Guides, who are remunerated by Government, are stationed at the places where the rivers flow, to conduct travellers across in safety. The whole distance from Lancaster to Ulverston is twenty-two miles. From Hest Bank, the point of entry upon the sands on the eastern shore, to Kents Bank, is a distance of eleven miles. Three miles of terra firma are then crossed, and three miles of sand follow, lying between the shores of the Leven estuary, from the nearest of which Ulverston is distant something more than a mile. If the proper time be chosen, (which can be easily ascertained by inquiry at Lancaster and Ulverston,) there is no danger in crossing these sandy plains, and yet few years pass in which lives are not lost. +

KESWICK.

[Hotels:-Royal Oak; Queen's Head; King's Arms.]

KESWICK, a market-town in the parish of Crosthwaite, and county of Cumberland, is situate on the south bank of the Greta, in a large and fertile vale, little more than a mile from the foot of Skiddaw, and half a mile from Derwentwater. It contains 2618 inhabitants, and consists of one large street. The principal manufactures are linsey-wolsey stuffs, and edge-tools, particularly the former. Black-lead pencils, made of the plumbago (or wad, as it is provincially called,) extracted from the mine in Borrowdale, are also a considerable branch

BAINES' Hist. of Lancashire, Vol. iv. p. 627.

"I must not omit to tell you that Mr Wordsworth not only admired our exploit in crossing the Ulverston Sands as a deed of' derring do,' but as a decided proof of taste: the lake scenery, he says, is never seen to such advantage as after the passage of what he calls its ma jestie barrier."-Mrs HEMANS' Letters.

of manufacture. Char, taken in Buttermere lake, is potted in large quantities during the proper season, and forwarded to the south of England. The Town Hall, erected in 1813, upon the site of the old Court House, stands in the centre of the town. The clock-bell, which was taken from a building that formerly stood on Lord's Island in the lake, has the letters and figures “H. D. R. O. 1001," upon it,—a decisive proof of its high antiquity. The parish church, an ancient structure, dedicated to St Kentigern, stands three quarters of a mile distant. A new church of elegant proportions was erected on the east of the town by the late John Marshall, Esq., who became lord of the manor by purchasing the forfeited estates of Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater, from the Commissioners of Greenwich Hospital, to whom they were granted by the Crown. A manorial court is held annually in May. The two museums, kept by Messrs Crosthwaite and Hutton, deserve a visit, as they contain specimens illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood, as well as many foreign curiosities. Minerals and geological specimens are kept on sale. Mr Flintoff's accurate model of the lake district, the labour of many years, should also be inspected. For the tourist this model possesses peculiar interest, exhibiting, as it does, an exact representation of the country through which he is travelling, with every object minutely laid down, and the whole coloured after nature. The dimensions of the model are 12 feet 9 inches by 9 feet 3 inches. There are two good hotels, the Royal Oak and the Queen's Head, besides numerous inns, at which guides, ponies, boatmen, and boats can be obtained. Tourists desiring to make a prolonged stay may also be accommodated with comfortable lodgings at many private houses.

GRETA HALL, the residence of the late Dr Southey, the Poet Laureate, is seated on a slight eminence near the town, about 200 yards to the right of the bridge across the river on the road to Cockermouth. The scenery visible from the windows has been finely sketched by himself in these hexametrical lines:

"'Twas at that sober hour when the light of day is receding,

And from surrounding things the hues wherewith day has adorn'd them
Fade like the hopes of youth till the beauty of youth is departed:
Pensive, though not in thought, I stood at the window beholding
Mountain, and lake, and vale; the valley disrobed of its verdure;
Derwent retaining yet from eve a glassy reflection,
Where his expanded breast, then still and smooth as a mirror,
Under the woods reposed; the hills that calm and majestic
Lifted their heads into the silent sky, from far Glaramara,
Bleacrag, and Maidenmawr to Grisedal and westernmost Wythop.
Dark and distinct they rose. The clouds had gathered above them,
High in the middle air huge purple pillowy masses,
While in the west beyond was the last pale tint of the twilight,
Green as the stream in the glen, whose pure and chrysolite waters
Flow o'er a schistous bed, and serene as the age of the righteous.
Earth was hush'd and still; all motion and sound were suspended;
Neither man was heard, bird, beast, nor humming of insect,
Only the voice of the Greta, heard only when all is in stillness.”

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