cular; but the forest continued to thicken, the rock to steepen, and it seemed probable that we might soon come to a cliff, such as not uncommonly terminates the sides of these hollows, which, if we did not tumble over in the dark, we were not likely to get down in any other fashion. Fortunately, at this moment our embarrassments were relieved by a partial clearing away of the cloud at the further end of the valley, which disclosed to us a distant glimpse of the sea-and, what we least expected, of the Penha d'Aguia, the remarkable mass of rock near Porto Cruz, the identity of which it is always impossible to mistake; so that we found we were making for the north instead of the south of the island, in a direction precisely opposite to that of Funchal.

We now retraced our steps with all possible speed, in the hope of regaining the summit before it was quite dark. Luckily, by the time we reached it, the mist had cleared away from the peaks and we had no difficulty in finding the ice-house. Our men, of course, were gone, for it was more than four hours since we had left them, and we had nothing for it but to walk home. The night, though cloudy, was very light, or there might have been some difficulty even in this; as it was we found none, save that arising from the road itself, which, from the roughness of surface and rapidity

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ROAD ABOVE THE MOUNT.

of the descent throughout, is, beyond all comparison, the most fatiguing my feet ever experienced. Near the town we met our men with horses and torches, coming back to find us-we gladly mounted and gallopped the rest of our way home, which we reached a little before nine.

WEATHER -PARTIES

EXCURSION TO THE WATERFALL THE DEANERY, WITH ITS GARDEN-LENTEN CEREMONIES-PROCESSIONS-RIDES IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Jan. 26.-The weather is raw and unsettled, peculiarly so for Madeira; and for some days past there has been snow on the mountains. It never, I believe, descends much below the icehouse, or lies long even there. The residents and the invalid visitors complain much of this ungenial state of the atmosphere. I am not myself very sensible of the rigour; though the fire in the evening is not unwelcome, any more than it would be some half of the evenings of our ordinary English summers.

Jan. 28.-Made an expedition to the Waterfall; the late rains, we thought, would shew it to advantage. It is situated at the head of one of the ravines, behind the city, from which it forms a favourite object for an excursion. You ascend the hills for about two miles, as far as the parish of St. Roque, and thence descend the side of the ravine to the bottom, where it is necessary to leave your horses, and make the rest of the way on foot.

F

66

THE WATERFALL.

Ladies, or those to whom the effort would be too fatiguing, are commonly conveyed in palanquins. The bottom, as usual, is thickly strewed with huge masses, which have either fallen from the adjacent cliffs, or been brought down by the torrent. During much of the journey you have to step or spring from one to the other of these; a kind of effort which, for a time at least, is rather animating than fatiguing.

The scene preserved throughout very much the same character; too much so, perhaps, considering the length of time the journey occupied. It is constantly shut in on all sides by the cliffs of the valley, which, though fine in themselves, are somewhat too uniform in their aspect; and unbroken, as far as I recollect, by a single cleft or tributary ravine, by which you might escape from their enclosure.

A walk of about two hours brings us to the Waterfall; we see it at first with very good effect, shining through the trees that fringe two low projecting cliffs, forming a kind of portal to the scene. The volume of water is not considerable, but it falls from a great height, in flakes of white spray, unbroken by any projection in the face of the rock * very similar both in height and volume and man

* See "Views in the Madeiras."

;

seau.

ner with that of the Chède, near Chambery, which made such an impression on the memory of RousThe apposition, in our recollection, of similar scenes in Savoy or Swisserland, however, is not to its advantage; and the distinction which it has acquired of the Waterfall, as by excellence over every other in the island, sufficiently indicates that it is not in them that the characteristic merit of Madeira scenery consists.

Our walk back occupied much the same time as did our ascent; and I confess I felt something of relief when, on emerging from the confinement of these cliffs, my spirit again expatiated over its accustomed expanse of earth, and sky, and ocean.

Jan. 30.-To day we have removed to the Deanery, our country house. For the enjoyments of this, too, we are indebted to the same unwearied kind_ ness, which has hitherto, in so many respects, and so unsparingly, provided for our comfort here; obligations so considerable, that we should find it difficult to repay them; but conferred with that frankness and delicacy, that though it only deepens the claim on our acknowledgment, takes off from it all its oppressiveness.

The house is a very pretty one; it has not been long built, and in fact only a portion of the apartments has as yet been used for residence; but there are more than enough for our