wealth and variety of culture and fruitage which enriches the bottom of the Machico valley. What more particularly marks the picture is the Penha d'Aguia (or Eagle's rock), a vast, insulated, and somewhat cube-shaped mass or mountain of rock which rises immediately from the sea, and stands out black and huge against it. Its height I should think not much less than a thousand feet, but the squareness of its shape diminishes the apparent elevation, which is farther dwarfed by the apposition of the more aspiring peaks of the other mountains *.

In our way home from hence we cross the Serra de St. Antonio t, a sort of table land, or tract of comparatively champaign country, situate at a great elevation above the level of the sea. It is of considerable extent, and partially cultivated for grain; but the greater portion is overgrown with broom

See "Views in the Madeiras."

Or the St. Antonio da Serra, as it is commonly called, meaning more properly, I apprehend, the church, than the tract on which it stands. In the same way I suppose the name Paul de Serra must properly allude to some chapel or shrine of St. Paul, which does or did stand in that region; though the denomination of The Paul' is now universally applied to the region itself. Serra, like the Spanish Sierra, strictly means a mountain, or rather range of mountains. Here it seems to denote an elevated plain, or fell, at the summit of the mountain.

54

ST. ANTONIO DE SERRA.

and brushwood. There is here a chapel containing an image of St. Antonio, which was formerly an object of much veneration with the islanders. Close to it is a house for the Padre, and another of greater extent for the pilgrims, whose devotion leads them thus far to do honour to the saint. It is chiefly used, however, by the English residents of Funchal, to whom this Serra is a favourite place of resort, and indeed from an inscription on the wall it would appear that the present building had been for the most part erected at their expence.

From the Serra to the city the road continually descends, except, of course, in crossing the ravines which intersect it, and which are the same that we had passed near their outlets, two days before, in our journey along the coast to Machico.

Passing through the pretty village of Camacha, which stands about half way from Serra, we were tempted to call at a beautiful little quinta on our left; the lady of the spot was not there, but her footsteps were sufficiently visible in the taste and skill which prevailed in its arrangements. It possesses the luxury of a most copious streamlet of water, and is shaded by the finest chesnuts, and in summer, at this elevation, must enjoy a delicious coolness of temperature.

In general, however, the country hereabout is far from interesting. We pushed on as quickly as the rapidity of the descent from the Palheiro will allow and reached home before sunset.

LADIES-STYLE OF THE PORTUGUESE BEAUTY-EXPEDITION TO THE ICE-HOUSE-ADVENTURE IN THE MOUNTAINS.

Jan. 20.-Another great Portuguese ball, which went off much as the former. It cannot be dissembled but that in general the Portuguezas are far from coming up to our notions of beauty either in face or figure. Their forms tend too much to fullness, the effect of which is the worse as they are seldom tall; and their features are apt to have that depressed, irregular contour which not uncommonly accompanies round faces. Their complexions are dark; but not sallow; and this circumstance would create less difficulty, if we oftener perceived that fineness of texture in the skin which frequently more than redeems the tint in the brunettes of our latitude; though even there this charm is more commonly found in the instance of a pale than a brown complexion. Their eyes are almost always fine; too universally so, indeed, not in some degree to diminish the effect in individual instances; almost every donna we meet is furnished with a most imposing pair

LADIES.

57

large, full, and dark, with something of a slow, sleepy expression, that nevertheless is sufficiently speaking in its way. The expression, it is true, is rather that of passion than intelligence, which, in fact, cannot be said to be generally the character of their countenance; and one sadly misses that eloquence of smile and play of feature like sparkling waves on a sunny day,' which so often abundantly compensates the absence of every other beauty. Perhaps, however, it is hardly fair to judge of them in this respect from seeing them merely at a window or in a ball room, for it is in conversation, chiefly, this sort of charm is elicited. If they possess it, it must come with double effect as contrasted with the rather opposite character which their countenances preserve in repose.

There are exceptions of course to all this, but fewer than one might expect; a stranger will be apt to be struck with the singular uniformity of style in face, figure, and expression, that prevails among them. No doubt this arises from their inclosure within the limits of a narrow island, and thence, particularly the upper classes, marrying so much among each other. The national characteristics of feature are thus more strongly preserved. However, the combination even of these is often not unproductive of beauty; or at least of attraction.