No. 339.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, 26th February, 1859. Tulle is preferred this winter to every other material for ball dresses. Tarlatane has rather declined in favour, except for the toilettes of young ladies, who do not yet wear either flowers or trinkets, for whom extreme simplicity is always most suitable and becoming.

Tulle dresses are arranged in various ways; some are worn over white satin, with numerous flounces-as many as eight may be used, each being ornamented by four ruches of tulle illusion, the corsage drapé, and sleeves ornamented as the flounce; others, of pink tulle, have four skirts, each being lined, the upper one raised at the side by a bunch of white lilac rising as wreath to the right shoulder, the bouquets of the skirt very large, tied by a noud of pink satin, spotted with silver, the corsage with double berthes of pink satin, trimmed with point de Venise. For very young persons, tarlatane is equally worn for balls. As for demi toilettes, the make of the dress establishes the sole difference for the former. They are made with four large flounces, headed by three narrow frills trimmed with blond, low body, with berthe trimmed as the flounces, or with drapery tied by noeuds of white Terry velvet. Another style is with four double skirts; another, with with four flounces, each of which having four hems, or with ten flounces, ornamented with ruche of tulle illusion, or ten flounces, pinked long ceinture of tarlatane ruchée, and noeuds of the same on the shoulders and corsage, those on the shoulders should be very narrow and very small.

A dress of tulle or of Chambéry gauze, with four flounces or skirts, is pretty. A very pretty dress for a young lady is made of white taffetas à gros grains, with two skirts or three flounces, trimmed with white velours epinglé, and large ceinture of velours epinglé. All taffetas of light colours are used for toilettes of young persons, sometimes with high bodies having merely a ruche of tulle at the throat, and large bouillons of tulle illusion at the sleeves, on a low body with berthe of taffetas, without lace.

Trimmings for dresses are of much importance just now; neither bodies nor skirts are without ribbon or guimps, and they are made in great variety, plats, aiguillettes, cords, torsades, buttons, guipures, blonds, and laces, for trimming ball dresses, etc.

Ornaments of flowers, and frequently guimps of silver or gold, are used on dresses of tulle or gauze. Many beautiful guimps are made in this style; the point d'Espagne, a silk guimp, made in every colour, to trim dresses, bodies, and manteaux, is wide, very delicate, and pretty. The guipure, of gold or silver, is of every width, intended for flounces, for low bodies, or for tulle scarfs. Gold blond is for the same purpose. Silk dresses are much ornamented with guimps; the point d'Espagne, the same colour as the dress, is the newest. Velvet trimmings are a little declining; velvet is more used at the bottom of dresses. A dress of plaid popeline satinée, in large checks, in which dark blue predominated, was trimmed in front by a large revers of dark blue taffetas, diminishing in width near the top, and had two rows of ruches of narrow ribbon, one black, the other green; the sleeves has revers to match.

A pretty dinner dress, or for demi toilette, was made of gris miroir taffetas, that is, grey shot with white and black, a colour equally pretty as it is soft; it may be used either with high or low body, with large Lœuds of the same colour, trimmed with aiguillettes; these large noeuds are of the same material as the dress. A style of dress which appeared to be as economical as worthy of remark, had the skirt composed of alternate breadths of black velvet and violet satin, the body, entirely of violet satin on the upper part, was attached to a low body.

A dress of plain taffetas, violet colour, was made with a deep border of velvet of the same colour, nearly half a yard deep, and cut in deep Vandykes, the velvet rising up the two sides, separated only by a band of black guipure, ornamented by large flat velvet buttons; the body high, and tight sleeves, with jockeys of velvet trimmed with guipures, and buttons.

For dinner dresses, or evening parties where very full dress is not

VOL. 32.

trimmed round with a narrow fluted frill or pelerine, of lace or of muslin, with bouillonné; but this is rather heavy. The sleeves generally correspond. The fichu crossing in front is more elegant than the pelerine, and is always fashionable; it is made in lace for ladies, in tulle or tarlatane for young persons. The fichus, Marie Antoinette, Rosemonde, and Princess Clotilde, are very suitable on low bodies when a simple toilette is required. The Rosemonde is of tulle bouillonné, confined by very narrow black velvet, and trimmed with a wide blond, which, worn over a white or pink dress, is very pretty.

Collars for morning negligé wear are worn small, of embroidered cambria, with cuffs to match; sometimes the collar is replaced merely by a bouillon of muslin, through which a ribbon is run, but this is rather youthful. The closed sleeves of morning dresses have restored the little cuffs that used to be worn some years since. In dress, the collars are of point lace, or point d'Alençon, or pelerine of guipure de Venise. The sleeves do not diminish in size; they are all of bouillons of tulle, ornamented with small noeuds and revers of lace, or tulle sleeves closing with wristband, and ornamented by bands of lace rising to the elbow.

The continued rains during the winter have quite established the fashions of the porte-jupes, which render walking so much more easy; they are also made use of to ornament. For ball or dinner dress, the porte-jupe Watteau is the most in favour, and is both convenient and elegant, and, if wished more simple, may be made of black velvet, or merely of guimp; if retained as an ornament, it is in large noeuds of satin taffetas or velvet; it is even used in rainy weather for carriage dresses, and for morning negligés it is worn under the coloured skirts. Very rich guimps continue to be used on manteaux, as well as on dresses either for negligés or ball dresses. Ribbon is also much in fashion as a trimming ruches, ruches of tulle and gauze also edging the flounces, or on the bodies long ceintures of ribbon, with steel buckles, blonds, and guipures of velvet of every kind. Long ribbon ceintures are very fashionable in every style, either for muslin dresses or those of tulle, or thicker materials; for the latter, a large noeud is worn at the side, with long ends, edged by a small black guipure or coloured fringe. Velvet plaid ribbons are also much approved.

It is rather early to announce any decided novelty in out-door costume. The weather does not yet admit of much change in this particular, and it would be premature to state what will be fashionable.

Many bonnets for visits of ceremony are made of crape, frequently Terry or plain velvet forms the ornament instead of feathers, but feathers are still worn placed in a novel manner, and are neither too long nor too showy. A bonnet of pink taffetas was entirely covered by a resille of blond, excepting the edge of both front and bavolet, which were of pink velvet touffes of feathers, placed on each side; on one side the feathers were visible, on the other they were concealed under a blond lappet, the two ends of which drooped on the shoulders.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with double skirts, on each of which are placed two rows of velvet; the body with pelerine to match. Manteau of black velvet, trimmed with lace and plissés of ribbon. Bonnet of white satin, ornamented by bunches of fruit and foliage.

Little Girl's Dress.- Frock of popeline, with double skirt, the upper one open in front, having two rows of velvet all round; the body is low, with stomacher and pelerine, and bell sleeves, with jockey; all ornamented with narrow black velvet and nœud of ribbon at the waist, and on the shoulders guimpe of tulle with ruche round the throat, and under-sleeves to match.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire antique, with high body, formed in one piece, with the skirt in front, and ornamented with fancy guimp buttons down the centre; two rows of narrow black velvet round the bottom; the sleeves in single bell, with bouillon at the top, and nœud of velvet. Bonnet of pink satin and Terry velvet with fauchon, trimmed with black lace.

fringe and small bouillons; pointed body, with berthe, edged with fringe and bouillons. Coiffure a l'Eugenie, with wreath of roses and foliage pendant.

PLATE II.-Ball Dress.-Robe of white taffetas, ornamented up the sides of the skirts by moutants embroidered in coloured silks; pointed body, with berthe of lace crossing in front, with ends, headed by a bouillon of satin ribbon; sleeves of bouillon, and frill of lace. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with pearls across the head, and pendant flowers at the back.

Evening Dress.- Robe of green gage Chambéry; the skirt is double, ornamented by plissés of black ribbon rising up at intervals; sleeves to correspond, and berthe of black tulle, ruches and lace at the edge, wreath of violets in the hair.

Evening Dress.-Robe of pink crape, ornamented with numerous rows of plissé ribbon; body and sleeves to correspond. Opera cloak of striped silk. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with wreath of flowers.

PLATE III.-Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, with very full plain skirt, and body ornamented by point d'Espagne. Manteau of black velvet, trimmed with fringe and guimp. Bonnet of satin and Terry velvet, with fauchon of lace.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with three flounces, trimmed with bands of checked ribbon; high body, with pelerine and bell sleeves matching the flowers. Manteau chale of velvet, trimmed with very wide black lace, headed by rows of guimp. Bonnet of white satin, with fauchon edged with black lace.

Young Ladies' Dress.-Robe of striped taffetas, and Polonaise of cloth, trimmed with narrow velvet. Felt hat, with feather, and fall of black lace.

PLATE IV.-Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, and Manteau of taffetas in full plaits, trimmed with two rows of fringe, surmounted by a small pelerine, with two rows of fringe. Bonnet of pink satin and black lace, with nœud of ribbon on the front, and full crown. Carriage Dress.-- Robe of figured silk and Polonaise of velvet, orna

THE BURNS CENTENARY.

THE CRYSTAL PALACE COMMEMORATION.

THE project of the directors of the Crystal Palace, for celebrating the hundredth anniversary of the birthday of the great Scottish poet, was carried out on Tuesday, January 26, when some 14,000 persons visited the noble pile at Sydenham.

The general order of the proceedings was as follows:-At twelve o'clock (by which time the palace had received the bulk of its visitors) a colossal bust of Burns was unveiled, and the Burns "relics" displayed. These memorials, as explained in the catalogue, consisted of, -the Nasmyth portrait; the Taylor portrait; David Allan's picture from the "Cottar's Saturday Night;" the picture, by Stewart Watson, of the "Inauguration of Robert Burns as Poet Laureate of the Lodge Cannongate, Kilwinning, Edinburgh;" the "Auld Clay Biggin"; the "Desk, or Escritoire of the Poet."

At half-past twelve o'clock the band of the Caledonian asylum struck up some characteristic strains, and were followed at intervals by the pipers of the Scots Fusilier Guards and the band of the Scots Fusilier Guards. In the Lecture-room, during the afternoon, Mr. Pepper, late of the Polytechnic, recited the poem of " Tam o' Shanter," which was illustrated by dissolving views, photographed from subjects by Mr. John Faed, R.S.A. Mr. Pepper read the poem with a great deal of humour; but here and there he was playfully detected by his north country auditors in trifling errors of pronunciation.

At two o'clock a concert took place in the great transept, in which Miss Dolby, Miss Lizzy Stuart, Miss Ransford, and Mdme. Poma, Messrs. Ransford, M'Davitt, and Genge, aided by a large chorus from the Handel Choral society, assisted. The concert opened with Bishop's overture to "Guy Mannering," and was followed by the following songs:-"There was a Lad was born in Kyle," "Lord Gregory," "A Highland Lad my Love was born," "The Banks of the Devon," "Ye Banks and Braes o' Bonny Doon," "I Love my Jean," "Highland Mary," and the following new song written expressly for the occasion by Mr. Thomas Oliphant :

"Oh! were I able to rehearse
Our Bardie's praise in proper verse,
I'd sound it out as loud and fierce

As ever piper's drone could blaw.
What tho' he only ca'd a plough,
The like o' Rob I never knew;
To equal him in truth there's few
Here about or far awa'.

"While moderns sing their feckless strains,
'Bout sighing nymphs and dying swains

(I wonder folk wi' ony brains

Can listen to such stuff at a'!),

mented with very rich guimp trimmings and fringe. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, with feathers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with flounces, edged by a plissé of ribbon. Polonaise of taffetas, with trimmings of bars of velvet round the bottom and sleeves. Bonnet of satin and lace.

PLATE V.--Bonnet of green velvet and grey straw, with a wreath of camelias round the front. The cap is trimmed with a bow of pink ribbon and a feather.

Evening cap of white blond, trimmed with peach-blossom ribbon. Bonnet of pink satin and black velvet, trimmed with black blond and a pink feather.

Pelerine of light blue satin, trimmed with quilled ribbon of the same colour.

Sleeve of book muslin in two puffs, one of which is looped up, and fastened with a bow of cerise ribbon.

Sleeve of fine net, looped up with bands of broad pink ribbon. Promenade bonnet of purple silk, trimmed with black blond and spring flowers.

Morning cap of white and black lace, trimmed with light green ribbon.

Bonnet of yellow satin, trimmed with black blond and primroses. Berthe of wide lace, with a ruche of lilac silk ribbon fastened in front, with a bow of the same.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

With the present Number we give the Model of a sleeve of a novel effect. The widest part is the top, and the tabs both top and bottom are of velvet, terminating in Vandykes on the sleeve of taffetas, which is difficult to convey on paper, further than said above, the tabs of velvet ending in points not very deep, leaving the middle part of the sleeve to form bouillon of taffetas; the body corresponds, being of velvet from the waist, rising in Vandykes.

Just cross to Rob some old Scotch sonnet;
Before ye'd think he'd time to con it,
He'd whip ye aff a sang upon it,

Sae sweet 'twould melt your heart in twa. "Rob had his faults, I'll not deny it (If ye've but ane the world will spy it); But tho' his head would oft run riot,

His heart it ne'er gaed wrong at a'.
And tho' they say he was na' happy
But when out ow'r the lugs in nappy,
There's ither folks can take a drappy,

Here about and far awa'.

"Now farewell, Rob, thou'st run thy race; But shame to them, and black discharge, Wha raised the first aboon thy place,

Then left thee there to stand or fa".
Yet while thy fate all Scotia mourns,
We'll sing when'er this day returns,
In memory of Robbie Burns,
Here about and far awa"."

This composition was beautifully sung by Miss Dolby, and encored. But the interest of the vast audience was clearly centered in the poem which it was announced would be read by Mr. Phelps in the interval between the concert. Shortly after three Mr. Phelps, accompanied by Mr. Grove and some of the company's officials, ascended the platform, and, amidst the breathless attention of the crowd, went through the formularies necessary for the recital. As a hint to the audience, a piece of tapestry covering the border of the orchestra was unrolled, and the word "Silence" underneath was unveiled as a warning to the assembled multitude to be quiet. Mr. Phelps then stepped forward, and Mr. Grove handed him the sealed envelope containing the successful poem. Mr. Phelps immediately added, "I am requested to break this seal and announce the name of the author of the poem I am about to read. The name is Isa Craig, Ranelagh-street, Pimlico."

This announcement, whether it was that it was not distinctly heard by the mass of the people present, or that it was felt to be somewhat enigmatical, did not quite satisfy the audience, who, however, allowed the recitation of the poem to proceed. Mr. Phelps then recited the following ode "On the Centenary of Burns” :

"We hail this morn,

A century's noblest birth

A Poet peasant-born,

:

Who more of Fame's immortal powe

Unto his country brings,

Than all her kings!