87

thought and experimental research necessary to obtain brilliant and permanent dyes for cotton, than for silk or wool. In respect to the two designations used above, of substantive and adjective, we may adduce the colours called lakes as examples of adjective dyes, which cannot be fixed in the cloth without the aid of a mordant. Whether made from madder, cochineal, Brazil wood, saffron wood, logwood, quercitron, fustic, or weld; whether called red, crimson, purple, black, or yellow-all lakes seem to have this fugitive character, unless rendered substantive and fixed by the aid of a mordant.

Difficult, therefore, as the application of these colours must be in the art of dyeing, we have pleasure in calling attention to the establishment of Messrs. Osmond and Co., where every description of dyeing, as well as India shawl cleaning, is conducted with eminent

success.

CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO DYEING.

COLOUR-CHEMISTRY has no more beautiful and important application than in the dyeing and printing of textile manufactures.

When a piece of cloth is dyed, does the colouring matter combine chemically with the filament, or does it simply lodge in little cells? Chemists and scientific dyers have long been discussing this question, but without arriving at undoubted results. All that seems to be known

is that if any one particular dye be applied to textile materials of cotton, flax, hemp, silk, wool, fur, or hair, it will adhere to them with different degrees of firmness, and will present different degrees of brilliancy, according to the nature of the filament. Whether there be an attraction or affinity (as chemists term it) between the filament and the dye, varying in strength in different instances, or whether the little cells or pores of the filament bear a certain relation in size to the dye particles, seems to be left for the determination of science at some future period.

But there is another source of diversity in the relations which dyes bear to the various filamentous substances above named. Whether it is that the cells of the filament and the particles of the dye do not suit each other in size without a little "doctoring," or whether principles of a more chemical character are at work, it is seldom that a piece of cloth will receive a dye without the intervention of some third material-some friendly agent which will adapt the other two to each other. All such agents are called by the dyer mordants: they have a biting" action, as the origin of the word shows; they bite the dye into the filament. Thus there arises a great diversity in mordants; for they depend not only on the nature of the dye which is to penetrate, but also on that of the filament which is to be penetrated.

But the chemistry of dyeing and calico-printing is far more complex than the mordants seem to imply. There are no less than six different kinds of effect to be produced on woven cotton goods, by chemical means, before the dyeing and printing can be fully attained. One is the cleaning, the removal of all extraneous matters from the filaments; another is the colouring, or the imparting of actual tint to the cloth; a third is the firing, or compulsory union of the dye with the cloth, through the medium of a mordant; a fourth is the discharging, or the removal of colour from particular parts of the cloth by chemicals subsequently applied; a fifth is the protecting, or shielding the cloth from the action of particular colours at particular spots by a preparation called a "resist ;" and, lastly, a sixth is the brightening, or the development of the beauty of the colours by an after application of certain chemicals. Now, every one of these six effects has its own particular group of agents; its own range of chemical substances fitted to produce it; its own peculiar connection with the chemistry of colours; and it is scarcely too much to say, that almost every discovery in chemistry is made available for one or other of the above six kinds of service.

To enumerate the crystals, the liquids, the powders, the gases thus employed, would take us a long journey through the range of acids, alkalies, salts, earths, and other bodies on which the attention of the chemist is bestowed. Sulphur assists in bleaching, and is the source whence the invaluable sulphuric acid is obtained; and this sulphuric acid is one of the means for obtaining the chlorine, the muriatic acid, and the soda, which enter so largely into dyeing and calico-printing.

One most important difficulty of the dyer's art is to range all his colours into two groups-substantive and adjective-comprising those which adhere to the cloth by their own chemical energy, and those which will not constitute "fast colours" without the aid of a mordant. Not only do dyes differ among themselves in this respect, but one particular dye has different habitudes in relation to different textile materials; cotton will often reject that which wool would receive

MARYLEBONE CHURCH IN HOGARTH'S TIME.-And now (writes G. W. Thornbury, in the Art Journal), if we want to see him at work in a not inappropriate transition, let us, regardless of highwaymen in black masks and claret-coloured roquelays, venture up Tyburn way again, and, turning to the right, walk round Marylebone Church, where this same stalwart Figg of the bullet cast-iron head, ribbed with plaisters, lies tranquil, beaten down by that champion of every ringDeath. Let us step in, too, and though the church is to be rebuilt, recal that wonderful scene of the Rake's Marriage. Look about, and you will even see the old inscription raised in wood on one of the gallery pews:-"These: pews: unscrewed and tane: in: sunder." Let us, too, repaint No. 5 of the "Rake's Progress" (I went there this morning on purpose) as we tread the musty-smelling cocoa-nut mats of Marylebone Church this quiet week-day, and breathe its rather mouldy and sepulchral air, as of departed churchwardens innumerable under the broad flag grave-stones of the aisle. The dust lies white and thick on the hymn-books and psalters destined to remain untouched till Sunday, six days hence, again disturbs that unchristian dust. It is a cold October morning, too, just as when the Rake married the rich old beldame, who leers in such a Gorgon-like way at the toothless, drivelling old fogey of a rector. My breath mounts in a white steam, just as it did from the fool Rake's mouth on that lying and unhappy day. It may be perhaps a month earlier, because the rims of the pews do not yet wear green, glossy, red berried plumes of Christmas holly. I see, too, the great sleeping-box citadels like tills with the lids off-of Hogarth's time; I see the skittle-pin balustrades of the communion rails; and, above all, I see the black lettered table of the Commandments with the satirical oblique crack running in a sinister way through the ninth edict. I am glad to see no spider's web over the slit of the poor-box, and fewer gold-lettered tablets recording the humble and retiring charity of departed church-wardens, who certainly did not die without leaving a sign. There are green damp blots on the walls, and the stucco, now peeled off like sores, shows the raw, harsh brick, soft and red. The latticed window is green and discoloured with the stain of damp oozing from within, not pelted from without. There is the square tub of the pulpit, with the irradiated sounding-board; there the queer tank of a gallery; and there, specially, that indifferent man-perhaps the organist-who, in Hogarth's admirable picture, looks down with folded arms from the upper box upon the pew-opener in the black hood.

THE EGYPTIAN HOMES.-Of the private dwellings of the Egyptians, we have some pictures. The entrance to them was usually through a court, fronted by a portico supported upon columns, and from which again, on the opposite side, there were passages to connect the ornamental part of the building with apartments for the family behind. The court itself was a reception-room for visitors. It contained a few trees, with a tank and fountain in the centre. The chambers were small, even in the larger houses, but lofty-entered by folding doors fastened with bolts, and lighted by small windows only, to keep out the heat; and on the top of the house was a terrace, covered with a roof raised on pillars. The terrace was the family parlour, and by far the most agreeable one that could have been constructed in such a climate. The above description applies principally to their town houses, but the rich have their country seats also, handsome villas, with spacious gardens watered by canals communicating with the Nile. There were stables, and a coach-house for the travelling chariot, a farm-yard and granary, with a poultry-yard. In short, their tastes were quite English. One of our advertisements of a house suitable for a genteel family, with its out-buildings and its et ceteras, would have answered the purpose equally well in Egypt.-Menzie's

KEATING'S COUCH LOZENGES. IMPORTANT TESTIMONIAL to the Efficacy of Keating's Cough Lozenges in Relieving PULMONARY AFFECTIONS:DAWLISH, Jan. 14, 1858.

SIR,-The very excellent properties of your Lozenges induce me to trouble you with another Testimonial on their behalf. All I can say is that I have been more or less Consumptive for upwards of three years, and have tried a great number of lozenges to abate the Cough, but from none have I found such relief as from yourseven one of them will check the most violent attack. They are invaluable, and I strongly recommend them to persons suffering from a Cough or Cold on the Chest. Pray make any use of this you please if worth your while. I am, Sir, your obedient Servant, To Mr. KEATING. Prepared and Sold in Boxes, 1s. 14d., and Tins, 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d., and 10s. 6d. each, by THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, &c., 79, St. Paul's Churchyard. London. Retail by all Druggists and Patent Medicine Vendors in the World. PRIZE MEDAL LIQUID HAIR DYE. Only one application; instantaneous, indelible, harmless, and scentless. In cases, post free, 4s. 9d., direct from E. F. LANGDALE'S Laboratory, 72, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C.

ABRAHAM TURNER.

"Mr. Langdale's preparations are, to our mind, the most extraordinary productions of modern chemistry." -ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWs, July 19, 1851.

MADAME TUSSAUD'S EXHIBITION, AT THE BAZAAR, BAKER STREET, LONDON. ESTABLISHED NEARLY A CENTURY.

The TIMES, of April 14th, states :"In no other place in Europe are so many touching and important memorials of the great Emperor to be found; even for a National Collection, our gallant Allies might be proud to possess the relics which are here preserved. Madame Tussauds' Exhibition is without a rival, either here or on the Continent-all who have attempted competition have proved but so many foils to

set up the superior attractions of her admirable collection of les hommes celebres."

PATENT

52, FLEET STREET. MR. HOWARD, Surgeon-Dentist, 52, Fleet-street, has introduced an entirely new description of ARTIFICIAL TEETH, fixed without springs, wires, or ligatures. They so perfectly resemble the natural teeth as not to be distinguished from the original, by the closest observer; they will never change colour or decay, and will be found superior to any teeth ever before used. This method does not require the extraction of roots or any painful operation, and will support and preserve teeth that are loose, and is guaranteed to restore articulation, and mastication. Decayed teeth stopped and rendered sound and useful in mastication. 52, FLEET STREET.

At home from 10 to 5.

BLACK! BLACK!! BLACK!!! SAMUEL OSMOND and Co., DYERS, 8, Ivy Lane, Newgate Street, London, inform the Public they have made arrangements for Dying Black for Mourning, when required. French Merino and Cachmere Dresses every Wednesday, returning the same in a few days, Bed Furniture and dyed colours that look equal to new. Drawing-room Suites Cleaned or Dyed and Finished. Shawls, Dresses, and Cloaks of every description Cleaned, and the colours preserved.

Established above a Century.

CARDS.-BEST QUALITY.

Just Published, Tenth Edition, price 1s. "ON THE LOSS OF TEETH." And as now restored by the NEW PATENT SYSTE of SELF-ADHESION WITHOUT SPRINGS, WIRI or LIGATURES, and also without extracting any tee or roots, or any painful operation; the result of twen years' practice. By THOMAS HOWARD, Surgeo Dentist to his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbar The invention is of importance to many persons; a those interested in it should read this Treatise. Simpkin and Marshall, and all Booksellers; or g free by post by Mr. Howard, 17, George Street, Hi over Square.

"A book that will be read with pleasure and profit all who are about to seek dental advice, and emanati from such quarters may be relied upon."-BLACKWOO LADIES' MAGAZINE.

This treatise should be read by all those who compelled to resort to artificial teeth; the auth great experience and acknowledged success give im title to the reader's confidence." KENT HERALD.

"Much that is curious, and more that is valuab

will be found in this treatise on the teeth."-BRIGHT

HERALD.

AUTUMN & WINTER FASHIONS To MERCHANTS, SHIPPERS, WHOLESALE HOUS DRESSMAKERS, &c.

5, PALSGRAVE PLACE, STRAND, NEAR TEMPLE BAR, LONDON, W.C.

MRS. HOUGHTON BEGS to ANNOUNCE to her numerous Customers, an Ladies in general, that her SHOW-ROOMS AR OPEN, with an elegant and useful selection of fu sized Paper Models in Dresses, Cloaks, Mantilles, Ba quines, Canezous, Juvenile Costume, &c., selected fro the first houses in Paris and London, and other reliab tronage she has been honoured with for twenty year The acknowledged superiority, and high p sources. render any comment unnecessary.

N.B. Attention is called to the fashionable dre distinguished in Paris as the Redingote Imperatrice. Parties in the country may rely upon their order receiving prompt attention.

FOURTEEN LIFE-SIZE PAPER FASHIONS.

MESDAMES DELULE AND DESTRIBBRIER, RUE FAUBOURG ST. HONORE, PARIS,

CULLETON'S HERALDIC OFFICE and GENEALOGICAL STUDIO, for tracing Family Arms, Pedigrees, and Histories of nearly every Family in the United Kingdom, America, &c. No fee for search of arms. Plain sketches, 2s. 6d.; in heraldic colours, 5s. Tracing pedigree, with original grant of Delicious in Puddings, Custards, Blancmange, Cake, &c., arms, 10s.-T. CULLETON, Genealogist, 25, Cranbourn and especially suited to the delicacy of CHILDREN AND INVALIDS.

CORN FLOUR.

To meet the persistent efforts of some Traders who try to substitute inferior articles, similar only in pearance, the best remedy is to order only from Family Grocers, Chemists, &c., who for a fair profit are content to supply what the Lancet states to be "Superior to anything of the kind known." Recipes on each Packet. Paisley; 77A, Market Street, Manchester; Dublin; and 23, Ironmonger Lane, London. MODELS FROM PARIS

OF

Street, Leicester Square, W.C. The studio and library open daily.

CULLETON'S BOOK PLATES, apWith Arms, 10s.; Crest Plate, 5s.; Crest engraved on seal or ring, s.; Arms on ditto, 24s.; Crest on steel die for stamping note paper, 6s.-25, Cranbourn Street, Leicester Square, W.C. N.B. Seal Engraver and Die Sinker to her Majesty and the Board of Trade. CULLETON'S EMBOSSING PRESSES -Patent Lever-for stamping note-paper with initials, crest, or name and address, 15s., at 25, Cranbourn Street, Leicester Square, London, W.C.

AUTUMN AND WINTER COODS. IMPORTANT TO CLOAK-MAKERS, DRAPERS, SHIPPERS, ETC.

MADAMES BAUD ET LEBARRE, FOURNISSEURS DE S. M. L'IMPERATRICE, Have forwarded to England, their Autumn Designs in PAPER MODELS (life size) of all the

NEW PARISIAN CLOAKS. They are trimmed exactly as they are to be worn in Paris; and, as the proper proportions are strictly

MARK YOUR LINEN with CULLETON'S PATENT ELECTRO-SILVER PLATES. The most easy, prevents the ink spreading, and never washes out. Any person can use them. Initial Plate, 1s.; Name Plate, 2s. 6d. ; set of Movable Numbers, 2s. 6d.; Crests, 58., with directions. Post 25, Cranbourn Street, Leicester Square,

free for stamps. Observe London, W.C.

AND

BUCKINGHAM GATE.

ESTABLISHED TEN YEARS. MESDAMES DELULE AND DESTRIBBRIER be to announce that their Packets are now ready fa delivery. They contain Fourteen Life-size Pare Models of all the Newest Mantles, Robes, Jackets Sleeves, in great variety, Children's Dresses, Boys Girls', together with directions how to make them the French style, also a plate of the models. T specialitics of the packets this season are, the new Bake à Parisien, the body and skirt cut in one piece, sis elegant body; a ball dress, quite new and very the winter mantle, given the full size-are ekgati, novel, and distingué. May be had, on applicati by letter, of Madame Delule, No. 7, Queen's Row, Lang Her Majesty's Palace, Buckingham Gate. Pimlice, f Mr. J. LIMBIRD, Stationer, 344, Strand, by letter addressed Madame Delule, containing in Stamps 58. Pd., or Post Office Order, payable to Helene Delule, Charing Cross, will ensure a Packet being sent by return to all parts of the United Kingdom.

that will ensure all Packets being sent off the day after Madame Delule has made arrangements this seas receipt of Order.

Important to Shippers, Drapers, and Mantle Makers
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
AT MISS RYAN'S COUNTER, 106, GROUND F
PANTHEON, OXFORD STREET, NEAR THE

VATORY.

SER JUST ARRIVED FROM PARIS.—All the newest designs in dress for the coming season. Marties, Jacquettes, Bodies, Sleeves, Skirt Trimming, Children's Dresses trimmed in the most distingue sty in full-sized Paper Models; a flat pattern given wi every article.

No. 348.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, 29th November, 1859. CHERE AMIE,-Silk materials have lost nothing of their richness; the most superb ones are used for evening dress, or grande toilettes. The mixed tissues of wool and silk are exclusively reserved for negligés. Dresses of black silk are always fashionable in demie toilette; the French watered silks and coloured satins are again appearing. The velours Imperatrice is a kind of Terry velvet, firmer and more brilliant; it is very rich in dark colours, and is made without flounces. Trimmings of coloured velvet are much used; brown and Marguerite are the favourite colours; brown on dresses and simple manteaux, Marguerite is used with black velvet; it is a colour which partakes of the currant and violet.

Trimmings and flounces of lace will be worn on carriage dresses, as well as on ball dresses; the trimmings of velvet or guimpe are equally in favour. At the bottom of a dress of taffetas or moire, they put a deep border of velvet en biais; if required to be more trimmed, several rows are placed, arranged according to the taste. Guimpes are placed on the front of the skirts, and also on the bodies, and are perhaps less common than velvet, but that must be regulated a little by the material, for the kind of trimming used which will sometimes look well with one kind will not with the other.

The double skirts, though seldom made in morning dresses, will be very fashionable in the light materials for ball dresses, as well as the narrow fluted flounces Pompadour. Corsages drapés and fancy berthes will be as much worn as they were last year; rich montants are worn all round the skirts, that is to say, up each breadth of the material, also en tablier in front; the bodies, always corresponding, should be ornamented with a marechale, also of point d'Hongrie. The bodies continue to be made very high, and to button; the basques seem to be quite abandoned, but pointed bodies are preferred to those entirely round at the waist, which shortens the figure; they are generally a good deal trimmed, and the sleeves exceedingly wide at the bottom; the closed ones are only used en negligé.

The indoor jackets now called Zouaves are novel only in name, and are more or less elegant as required; some have an oriental appearance by being embroidered in gold or silver, as the little vestes worn by the Sultanas.

The flounces on some silk dresses do not rise above the knee, and are often headed by a band of velvet of the colour of the dress; the flounces are edged by guimpe, fringe mousseux, etc., and long ceintures edged with guimpe are worn. The taffetas cannelés or moucheté, on sea green or mauve, or pale grey, are made with flounces at the bottom of the dress, or wide bands of velvet; or if preferred, in the front of of the skirt, gradually increasing in width, and covered by three rows of large buttons, trimmed with guipure, or, the whole in guimpe, constituting itself the front of the skirt; the same style is repeated on the body and sleeves, unless they are tight, which is frequently the case now. These guimpes should be of the same colour as the dress, unless it is dark; but black is no longer fashionable on light colours. The colour should be the same as the dress. A dress of black taffetas was trimmed with two bands of black velvet en biais, five or six inches wide, placed about the width of the hand apart, and forming pointed festoon; the sleeves were wide, lined with white silk and ruche of ribbon, inside two bands of velvet, as on the skirt, but narrower; high body, buttoning in front, and points before and behind; on the front and back a plastron of black velvet, surmounted by a feston, and jockeys of velvet on the sleeves.

Peignoirs, or negligé dresses, are made in the blouse style, but still fitting well to the figure. They are made of woollen materials or silk, but are little ornamented; the coins de feu are more varied in form; the casaque Zouave galonné, embroidered with gold or velvet, satin or cachemire; plain casaques are of cloth or velvet, or black guipure, lined with black satin.

Some peignoirs are made very elegant yet simple; one of noisette

FASHION,

VOL. 32.

buttons of velvet, of the noisette colour; these buttons were as large as a crown piece. The sleeves not very wide, with cuffs mousquetaire, and similiar buttons confining the cuff, of which there were six. The toilettes for children are very pretty, with their felt hats and feathers, flounces on their frocks, or bands of velvet or plaid popeline, according to the material used; guimpe trimmings are also used for them.

One of the prettiest novelties is the cap Imperatrice, the form of which is quite different from all others, though resembling most the Charlotte Corday; it is of Brussels or Valenciennes, a wide velvet, of either black or brown, is tied on the top of the forehead, and two large nœuds, without ends, are placed on the bandeaux. It forms the prettiest morning coiffure of a young lady. With a black or marron dress, the velvet may be ruby or sky blue; but to preserve it in good taste, the velvet of this cap should never be showy if the dress is of light colour, and the contrary if of dark colour; and as it is not intended for evening wear, velvet of violet, black, or marron, are preferred to all others.

The cold weather has commenced so prematurely this year, that warm attire has been in great demand. The manteaux and châles of velvet, ornamented with rich laces, are splendid; many are trimmed with fur. Opera cloaks are of cachemire, embroidered in tissue d'orient, striped. For useful wear, the forms of cloaks are full and long, of cloth much ornamented by guimpes, or bordered with black velvet, some with the hood bonne femme, which is full, others are of the shawl shape, which is merely a petite pointe falling on the back; at the two corners of these cloaks, the bottom round the shawl, and on the sleeves, ornaments of point d'Hongrie are placed; they are composed cords and detached bouquets. The India cachemire shawl will always be fashionable; there are also pretty shawls of plain cachemire, embroidered in flowers with black silk, and trimmed with broad black lace. These are very fashionable in Paris, and are made in every colour; they are only suitable for carriage wear, excepting those of dark colours, which may be worn with any dress.

The manteau Matchou ranks amongst the most elegant; it is a kind of paletot, with large sleeves made of velvet, and much ornamented. Another is the paletot bourgeois, made exactly as a man's paletot, only the sleeves are wider, with revers, and trimmed with velvet.

There is not much change in the forms of bonnets this season; they incline rather more on the forehead, but are very open at the sides, and many capotes are made with full crowns, velvet and taffetas being the materials used. Black lace and velvet, with feathers, are the trimmings most in use; flowers are reserved for crape or dress bonnets, the choux or rosette of satin is preferred; they resemble flowers without foliage or shade of colour. On velvet bonnets they place a bunch of flowers resembling poppies, or ranunculus; black and pink being very much in fashion, choux of pink and black are often used; black and red on black velvet, violet and black on a bonnet of either velvet or taffetas of violet colour. Terry velvet is also used for capotes; one of dark green had cock's feathers of very dark green and black, green velvet confined the feathers in a tie, terminating in a point, trimmed with black lace, on a full crown; the bavolet was of black velvet; inside the bonnet, some velvet and a small bunch of the same feathers. The voilette Clotilde maintains its favour; it is worn in demie toilette, with a simple bonnet, and which then requires no other trimming; it is a caprice of the day, and adopted by very elegant persons. A bonnet for morning negligé was made of violet velvet and taffetas, with merely a choux of velvet and ribbon on the left side near the ear; a bandeau of velvet was inside the front, and a voilette Clotilde may be added. A more elegant bonnet was of plain black velvet, and velvet of peach colour, round the form and the round of the crown only were black, on the left side was a bunch of curled feathers, inside a bandeau of black blond on the forehead, the sides of white blond, and two little tips of peach coloured feathers, also placed on the left side; very wide brides, one black, the other peach. Materials as well as colours continue to be mixed. Many bonnets are covered with spotted tulle, but velvet predominates on them; it is the