Imatges de pÓgina

shoes, etc., she had taken off scattered around, some on the floor, others on the chairs and lounge, in fact, left just where they were taken off, either for some one else to put away or to remain there until the morning when she would again need them. That young man never paid her any marked attentions afterward.

Few men can tolerate untidiness in a wife, nor do they like to see them otherwise than neatly dressed; men, as a rule, have good taste as to color and suitability in woman's attire. The other day a man was describing in a room full of company the dress of two girls he had met in the street of a town through which he had just passed. One, said he, was dressed in a neat calico dress, made loosely, as suited the hot weather, and she wore a round straw hat trimmed with some soft white material and large enough to shade her face from the rays of the sun. She looked, said he, though so cheaply dressed, every inch a lady, and the picture of neatness and modesty. The other had on a Mother Hubbard of some fiery red material and a hat which he characterized as indescribably unladylike and vulgar, while her manner was in keeping with her dress, as might be expected. Doubtless could he have looked into the homes of those two girls he would have found them as distinctly different as were their dress and manners.

"How I pity the man," said he, "be he whom he may, who gets the red one for a wife; for myself, I would marry a squaw in preference." And this would be the feeling of most men in regard to neatness, tidiness and modesty in the women they would choose as partners for life and to whom they could entrust the training of their children.

The Creator gave the soul of woman a beautiful tabernacle in which to dwell during its sojourn on earth, and it is her bounden duty to keep it pure, clean and properly adorned, but when she dresses like a circus-rider or a merry Andrew, all her beauty and grace is lost, and she becomes the subject of derision and is laughed and sneered at by all with whom she comes in contact.

It is the manners and style of dress that distinguish the true lady; wealth and birth do not make them. How many a gentle, modest, yet often uneducated, girl do we meet on whose face and manner the impress of lady is stamped as plainly as is the eagle on a gold coin, and we invariably find her neat, clean and modest, while her home and all her surroundings are in keeping with herself! Such women are priceless jewels to their husbands. and are destined to be the progenitors of great men and noble women; they are truly "mothers in Israel." Their husbands are not afraid to hear their names spoken, either in public or private, and their children are proud to call them mother.

Tidiness and neatness are the distinctive marks of a refined mind and pure nature, while gaudy colors and showy dress are as surely indicative of a coarse and vulgar temperament. How careful young girls should be to cultivate good taste and modest manners, especially the Latter-day Saints, who ought to be examples of purity, neatness, truth and virtue to the world! They have not the plea of want of instruction to urge, for that they get free from their earliest childhood, and those who do not profit by it are storing up for themselves remorse and for their descendants misery.



✅ DRESS. ▷

NE cannot be thankful enough for


the blessed reform in dress that is now being agitated both in Europe and our own dear country. I should think, too, that every man, and, in fact, all who care for the truly beautiful in woman, would rejoice that at last the horrid bustle, with its attendant "reeds," humps and bunches in the back drapery of the ladies' dresses has been banished, to give place to the graceful garments now finding favor in the fashionable and home world of womanhood. In looking at the lovely

styles for spring and summer wear, I rejoice that I may still look stylish, graceful and attractive without making my life a burden, wearing tight corsets, having all my skirts weighing down my hips until I have really felt sometimes I must break in two, or sit down. Now I have a most graceful substitute for corsets, namely, "The compromise bodice," which, instead of the severe steels and clasps, has the best of whalebones, with buttons provided for fastening in front, with lacing. in the back. These waists, which I consider superior to any other for stout figures, are manufactured in white twill, trimmed in edging, will wash well, and are so made that the whalebones can be removed, when the waist -which answers the purpose of corset, corset cover, skirt and stocking supporter-is to be washed, so that one having two or three of them, can always have them clean and comfortable, the cost being only $1.75 for "The compromise bodice." They are to be had by mail on receipt of price,

which includes postage from the manufacturer, Geo. Frost & Co., 31 Bedford Street, Boston, Mass. Any woman who has been tortured for years, going about in a straight jacket or corset, will appreciate these new and graceful substitutes for corsets.

The tailor-made waists having given way to the graceful, Grecian style of draping the figure, one does not feel the necessity for compressing one's waist until breathing is a labor, thanks to the progress of the age, good sense now begins to prevail, health, comfort and gracefulness are considered in woman's dress.

The prolonged favor accorded slender effects in draping confirms the fact of the unusual becomingness of skirts of this character, and though variations are noted in the style, the original effect is carefully preserved. Kilt and box-plaits have yielded precedence to occasional plaits and gathered fulness, and though a slightly wrinkled surface is observable in a tablier or front drapery, actual puffiness is altogether avoided; and in back draperies. the bouffant, when introduced at all, is merely suggested by bournouses or slight tackings. Revers are applied to draperies as well as to basques, the spaces between the flaring edges being faced or otherwise trimmed, decoration being frequently applied to the facing. Sleeves are without exception full; pompadour ribbons in all widths. are much used now for trimming gowns of heavy black and other soberhued materials, both for full dress and for demi-toilette, and they are also seen on gauzes, cashmere and batiste in evening colors. These ribbons are

especially effective when mounted upon the hems of skirts, in one, two or three rows, or else set from girdle to hem, over which they fall in cut ends, with or without loops. Of course similar ribbons decorate the waists, being arranged in surplice lines, in butterfly bows upon one or both shoulders, and, indeed, in any disposal that may be becoming.

Shepherds' plaids are again in favor for traveling wear, and also for childrens' outdoor raiment. These checks are always lady-like, and at the same time durable and do not soil easily. Then, too, while shepherds' plaids are more especially in favor this season, one need not feel the necessity of wearing such a suit out at once, for they are never entirely out of fashion.

Surplice effects are even more fashionable than they were last year. Many of the simplest of the summer gowns may be made up and trimmed in such a way as to be wonderfully effective. In a dress of Turkish cotton crepe, camel's-hair, batiste, mohair or brilliantine the perfectly proportioned skirt may be trimmed with one broad or several narrow moire, velvet, grosgrain or satin ribbons, either striped, plaided, or in solid colors, set above the hem; and similar ribbon may be applied or knotted about the arms and wrists, while a ribbon girdle may be arranged about the waist and tied in front or at the back. The result will be a costume that can be stylishly worn anywhere during the summer season; and this dainty method of garniture will largely diminish the expense of gowning, while it adds decidedly, by its special fitness to the season, to the elegance of the general effect.

The absence of collars from many summer dresses is likely to induce the

wearing of jaunty little shoulder capes or mantles on the street.

The wrapper habit has been broken by the combined efforts of dress reformers, esthetic and newspaper paragraphers, says the New York World. Ten years ago one rarely met a homebody before noon in anything but a Mother Hubbard or a straight wrapper. That unsightly garment and the hideous, horny curl papers went together, and were looked upon by distressed husbands and brothers as a couple of the inevitable calamities to which life is exposed. With the graceful gowns of the esthetic school, the easy fitting combination suit of the physical culturists, and the clinging princess dress of the reformers for a model, a revulsion was felt toward the shapeless wrapper and has developed into positive aversion. There are innumerable ways of getting a morning dress for almost nothing. Take, for instance, a wardrobe of six or more dresses, out of which not more than two are la mode. With a skirt the toilet is half complete. It may be bright and light, plain or lavishly trimmed, but so long as it is neat it will be pretty. If there is no available waist, a blouse of silk, flannel or cambric can be bought at from 30 cents to $5, or fashioned at home for half the money. A wide awake lady, who has pupils as well as small children to care for, wears a castoff brown silk skirt shorn of its former glory and a boys' shirt waist of sprigged muslin, belted in at the waist. These waists cost her 30 cents each, but before wearing she is obliged to buy material and make new sleeves. Instead of looking queer, as you may imagine, she looks neat, fresh and pretty, for the waist is well starched, and at her throat she wears a sailor knot of soft

silk. A lady uptown, a doctor by profession and something of a crank on hygienics, wears cheese cloth yoke dresses that cost $1 each, and she has a new one every six weeks. The neck is yoked, made of silk or velvet, to which the straight breadths of cheese cloth are gathered. Three yards of ribbon, served over the shirred belt, is the only attempt at decoration. One month she receives her patients in pale. blue cheese cloth, worked with navy blue silk; the next month the cloth is pink and the yoke maroon velvet, and just now she is wearing cream cloth gathered to a yoke of brown velvet. Brown ribbon is girdled about her waist, brown half shoes cover her feet, and the whole toilet-shoes, dress, ribbons and all-cost $6.80.

Pretty woolens can be bought for 40 cents a yard, and six yards, with one and a quarter yards of plush or velvet for trimming, will make a Josephine dress. Why disfigure yourself when a pattern and a days' work will reproduce the artistic, tidy, easy and worldrenowned dress?


Among the early spring hats are shown togues in smaller sizes, and there is a tendency to make the oval shape almost pointed in front. The rosettes are liked on these hats, the entire decoration being arranged in perfect harmony. On a togue of dull mode straw the crown is visible, but the brim on each side of it is formed of two straps of velvet that cross each other at the back and are brought to the front, where their ends are hidden under two rosettes. One of these straps is of pale mauve and the other of dark olive, and these colors form the lower rosette, while the upper one

almost matches the straw in the color. On account of their tendency to a point in front, these hats must be worn a little further over the face, more, in fact, like the regulation English turban. Black lace, draped over hats, is used to form the crown and as a decoration. In fact, whenever a milliner cannot decide just what to put upon a chapeau, she bethinks her of a band, bow or frill of black lace, and straightway applies it. Crowns are made of two strips of lace having their edges joined in the centre, and in such instances the brim can be and usually is of some heavier fabric, straw, velvet or crepe being most frequently used. As velvet is becoming to the face, many give it the preference; but it should not be forgotten that velvet requires constant attention, since nothing is quite so dowdy-looking as dusty velvet during warm weather.

A quiet little bonnet that will endure much wear has a crown of Chantilly lace in a very plain design; the brim is of emerald-green velvet, and just in front is a bunch of those anomalies of the floral kingdom, green roses made of velvet. The ties, which are of green velvet, come from the back, and are looped in the usual way. Another bonnet has a similar crown, but the brim is of black velvet, and the flowers are the bluest of forget-me-nots. In straws the fancy open-work effects are most fashionable, but as most of them are too elaborate for general wear, plain varieties are also shown. The colors noted in the English and rough straws are all the golden-brown shades, mode dove, deep scarlet, silver gray, olive, nile, mauve and black. The shapes differ but slightly from the winter styles. The crowns are a trifle lower, and the fanciful effects produced

by fluting and opening the brims just in front makes a slight change. Under the front is placed a cluster of blossoms or a stiff rosette. A smart looking hat has the usual rather low, almost square crown, and a brim that is next to nothing at the back, but widens at the sides and in front. There are three deep flutings just in front, and under these, forming a good contrast with the mode straw, are set rosebuds peeping out from their green cups, and each having a leaf or two of foliage attached. The trimming on the outside consists of two strips of mode ribbon, one of velvet, the other of satin, drawn together to the front and held in place above the flutings by a rosette of velvet ribbon. The hat is worn so that the flowers show effectively, and it may have ties or not, as preferred. Another hat in the same style is of gray chip, the brim is broader than usual in front, where it is deeply bent to accommodate quite a large cluster of pale purple violets; the outside of the hat is trimmed with a drapery of crepe d'chine, that is drawn forward as if it were ribbon and held in place by a very tiny bunch of violets, so arranged that they show both above and below the brim. Ties are added in this instance, and instead of matching the straw they correspond with the color of the violets.

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INCE the days when, on Mount


Ida, Paris awarded the golden apple to Venus, the goddess of beauty, physical perfection has appealed to

velopment gave inspiration to the noblest efforts in art the world has ever had, and although types of beauty have differed with different nations, whenever the human form has been allowed to develop according to natural processes, a race of men and women has been created to whom art will ever turn for her models.

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