On descending, the vale, lake, and village of Coniston meet the eye, closed in by the Old Man and other abrupt hills to the west. Before reaching the level, Waterhead House (the property of J. Marshall, Esq.) is passed on the left, and soon afterwards is reached Waterhead Inn, recently erected by the above named gentleman at considerable expense with a view to accommodate tourists, who may here be supplied with boats, conveyances, guides, &c. A little further is the village of Church Coniston, where are also two inns (the Black Bull and the Crown), where visiters may meet with comfortable quarters and other requisites. Coniston is nearly eight miles from Ambleside, and about sixteen from Ulverston. Coniston, or Thurston Water, is six miles in length, and in some places measures three quarters of a mile in breadth. Its margin is regular, and not so diversified as that of Windermere, while its surface is only adorned by two small islands (near to the eastern shore), whose appearance are not calculated to add much to the beauty of the lake. Its waters supply trout, char, &c., the last-named being considered larger and of a finer quality than any to be found in the kingdom. A stream running from Yewdale, and another from Tilberthwaite, are its principal feeders, but it has some smaller tributaries flowing from the tarns - Levers Water, Lows Water, and Goats Water- on the sides of the Old Man mountain. The outlet is called the Crake, which, after passing through Lowick, Spark Bridge, and Penny Bridge, where its waters are turned to account, unites with the Leven, from Windermere, on the sands at Greenodd. Like Windermere, it has a carriage road running entirely round its margin. Looking from towards the foot on this road the scenery surpasses anything in the lake district for grandeur and sublimity, particularly if viewed from the eastern shore. Commencing at the southern end on this side we pass through the hamlet of Nibthwaite, near which is Water Park (R. Town, Esq.), and successively by Brentford Cottage, Coniston Bank, and Tent Lodge, once the abode of Elizabeth Smith, the poetess and eminent Hebrew scholar, and now occupied by Alfred Tennyson, Esq., the poet. The high hills of Coniston, and the steep craggy heights of Yewdale, are conspicuous objects on this side, and near to the head may be had a good view of the village of Coniston and Coniston Hall, the ancient seat of the Flemings, now at Rydal. On the western side are the hamlets of Blawith and Torver. Fine views may also be obtained from the surface of the lake. West speaks of a place about two miles from the head, where, "looking towards the mountains, the lake spreads itself into a noble expanse of transparent water, and bursts into a bay on each side, bordered with verdant meadows, and inclosed with a variety of grounds, rising in an exceedingly bold manner. The objects are beautifully diversified among themselves, and contrasted by the finest exhibition of rural elegance (cultivation and pasturage, waving woods and sloping inclosures, adorned by nature and improved by art), under the bold sides of stupendous mountains, whose airy summits the elevated eye cannot now reach, and which almost deny access to human kind." Several highly interesting rambles may be made from Coniston. To the northward lie the vales of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, the former remarkable for its crags and venerable tree, and the latter having extensive slate quarries amongst its woods and wild scenery. This portion of the district is the scene of Canon Parkinson's tale of "The Old Church Clock," who, himself a native of these parts, has admirably described the appearance of the country, and the unaffected manners of its inhabitants. can The ascent to the Old Man is a somewhat difficult and fatiguing task, but when once achieved the labour is soon forgotten, and the attention riveted to the varied and far-extending prospects which present themselves to the eye of the spectator. To the northward are seen Skiddaw, Saddleback, Helvellyn, and other Cumbrian mountains, the Langdale Pikes, and nearer still Tilberthwaite Fell and Wetherlaw, and more easterly the upper portion of Windermere, with its villa-peopled shores and adjacent hills; while in the opposite direction, there being no interposing obstacle, the eye can range along the bays and promontories of the Lancashire and part of the Cumberland coast see the small islands at the southern extremity of Furness, with the Isle of Man, and, on a fine clear day, the dim outlines of Snowdon and other Welsh mountains. On the eastern side may be seen the whole of Coniston Lake, Esthwaite Water, and a portion of Windermere, behind which the eye rests on a broad extent of moor and mountain. The estimated height is 2,477 feet. The easiest ascent is by way of Torver, but the nearest from Coniston is past the copper mines and slate quarries, the former of which have been worked from time immemorial, with the exception of a short period during the time of the civil wars, and at present employ a large number of workmen. Veins of the same mineral run in opposite directions, one portion extending towards Seathwaite, and the other towards Hawkshead. Another exceedingly pleasant trip might be made into the vales of Seathwaite and Dunnerdale, on the banks of the river Duddon, a distance of five miles, by way of Walna Scar. The last-named valley is embosomed amid rude and sublime mountain scenery; and not one of its least interesting objects is its small chapel, where the "wonderful Walker”* (a name familiar to the readers of Wordsworth) performed the duties of his calling. The Duddon has its rise on Bowfell, and after meandering through a picturesque and romantic tract of country enters the Duddon Sands near Broughton-in-Furness. Wordsworth has composed several sonnets on this river, the following of which, representing alike its peaceful and troubled character, we transcribe:"The old inventive poets had they seen, Or rather felt the entrancement that detains Thy waters, Duddon ! 'mid these flowery plains, *The Rev. Robert Walker, the excellent person here alluded to, was born at Under Crag, in Seathwaite, in 1709. He was the youngest of twelve children, and being of a weak constitution, his parents contrived to give him a limited education. This done, he became master of a school at Lowes Water, where, by the assistance of some neighbouring gentlemen, he gained such a knowledge of the classics as enabled him to take holy orders. These obtained, he was installed in the curacy of Seathwaite, which at that time yielded him five pounds per annum. Having received forty pounds with his wife, he furnished the parsonage with it, and entered upon his duties. In addition to this meagre salary, he received a trifle for teaching a school, which he did within the rails of the altar, at the same time attending to his spinning-wheel. By a life of unexampled industry and frugality he succeeded in bringing up a large family, and setting them forward in the world, and at his death, in 1802, was possessed of two thousand pounds in money, besides a number of webs of linen and woollen of his own spinning. This was not the fruit of avarice, for his hand was ever ready to assist the poor and necessitous, and even what he received for teaching school was given voluntarily, no charge being made. He was universally revered, and his opinion on matters of importance sought after for a considerable distance. His disinterested and self-denying qualities may be traced in the following answer to the Bishop of Chester, when offered the curacy of Ulpha in addition to his own: "The chapel of Seathwaite and Ulpha annexed together would be apt to cause a general discontent among the inhabitants of both places; by either thinking themselves slighted, being only served alternately, or neglected in the duty, or attributing it to covetousness in me; all which occasions of murmuring I would willingly avoid." D Transferred to bowers imperishably green, And countenanced like a soft cerulean sky, Dance, like a Bacchanal, from rock to rock, Tossing her frantic thyrsus wide and high." From Coniston the next move is generally to Ambleside (eight miles), portions of which road have already been spoken of. Amblesie is an an cient chartered town, and contains a population of upwards of 1,000. Its streets have a confused ar irregular appearance, but, being built on an elev ted ground, command good prospects of the adjoining country. The leading inns are the Salutation, Commercial, and White Lion, besides which there are others where travellers can be accommodated, as well as at a number of private houses specially fitted up for lake visiters. Boats of various kinds are kept by the proprietors of the different ions for the convenience of tourists. The vicinage in every direction is adorned by a number of preity villas, and the various little walks in the neighbou_hood abound with rich and enchanting scenery. A very interesting ceremony, called the Rush-bearing, takes place at Ambleside annually, on the eve of the last Sunday in July, being probably the relic of some ancient custom, which has now, with one or two exceptions, fallen into desuetude. On the day in question the girls of the town and neighbourhood, preceded by music, carry garlands of flowers to the church, where they are tastefully deposited until the following day, when a sermon is preached befitting the occasion. On a fine bright day this exhibition has a very lively and picturesque appearance. A beautiful church has recently been erected by sub |