great advantage. Further southward the views lose some of their grandeur, but from many places in the vicinity of the islands they are perhaps even more beautiful and enchanting.

From Ambleside, proceeding along the western side of the lake, the traveller passes, to the right, about three-quarters of a mile from the town, Croft Lodge, from the steep wooded hills behind which, intersected by paths, the lake may be seen as far as Bowness; thence passing through Clappersgate, he crosses Brathay Bridge, and shortly after leaves Brathay Hall, the seat of G. Redmayne, Esq., to the left, and the district Church of Brathay, a neat edifice lately erected by the last-named gentleman, to the right. Pull Wyke, a bay stretching some distance inland, is then passed, where a fine view of the opposite shore is obtained, and shortly after the road to Hawkshead is left to the right, and Wray Castle is seen at some distance before him. Standing on the summit of a pleasant eminence, this magnificent building forms a conspicuous object in many of the views from the upper portion of the lake. Its style of architecture is apt to remind one of the feudal times, when every wealthy gentleman acted the part of a petty prince, having a number of stalwart retainers to defend his pretensions from loop-hole and battlemented tower. It has been lately built by J. Dawson, Esq., physician; and from the tasteful manner in which the grounds are laid out, and the extensive prospects it commands, is likely to become one of the most desirable places in the district. A mile further is the village of High Wray, where is the residence of W. Wilson, Esq., from which place to the Ferry Hotel, a distance of three miles, the road winds through exuberant woods, about half-way passing close to Belle Grange, and shortly afterwards

Waterloo Gardens, which in summer afford a delightful resort to visiters. A little further is the farm-house of Harrowslack.

Arrived at the Ferry Hotel, a well-conducted establishment, the Station House should not be overlooked. It is situated on the brow of the wood-clad hill above the hotel, and admirable views of the lake and its islands are obtained from it. In one window the glass is so stained as to give to the landscape the appearance it presents during the different seasons of the year. The hotel itself is placed on the point of a wooded promontory, overshaded by large trees, and diametrically opposite to a strait "nab," or promontory, on the other side, between which places passengers, horses, carts, carriages, &c. are regularly ferried over. Proceeding onward the road runs through Cunsey (a mile and a half from the hotel), crossing Cunsey Beck, which issues from Esthwaite Lake and here enters Windermere.

Two miles farther, on a somewhat uneasy road, through coppice woods, from which, however, may be had some excellent retrospects, brings the tourist to Graythwaite Hall (Myles Sandys, Esq., the descendant of an ancient family of that name). The mansion has lately been enlarged, and the alterations have greatly improved its appearance. An intervening hill completely hides it from the lake, and the prospect from the front is only limited. Near to this place is also the residence of J. J. Rawlinson, Esq., situated so as to overlook the lake for a considerable distance. From Graythwaite to Newby Bridge the road passes through Stott Park,. leaving the sylvan vale of Finsthwaite to the right, and to the left (nearly at the foot of the lake) a neat retired villa called The Landing, which, with the adjoining grounds, is the property of Mrs. Harrison. At Newby Bridge, which may be considered at the

C

foot of the lake, the Swan Hotel affords every convenience for visiters, having always in readiness conveyances, boats, &c. and also suitable apartments for those who wish to make a temporary stay. By this route the distance is from Ambleside to Ferry Hotel eight miles, and from Ferry Hotel to Newby Bridge seven miles. The tourist staying at Newby Bridge may procure a fine view of the surrounding country by visiting the "Tower," built by the late Mr. King on the highest part of an adjacent hill to the west, the footpath to which winds its way through stunted coppice, having around the music of the woodland songsters, and below the neverceasing murmur of the Leven.

From Newby Bridge to Bowness is somewhere about nine miles. Crossing the river Leven the residence of F. M'Connell, Esq., is seen fronting up the lake. Immediately afterwards, leaving the main road to Milnthorpe, Lancaster, &c., and inclining to the lake, the village of Staveley is left at the foot of the hill to the right. The road taking a northward direction at Fell Foot (the beautiful seat of F. D. Astley, Esq., from the grounds in front of which a considerable portion of the lake may be seen), passes close to Town Head (W. Townley, Esq.), and skirts along the base of Gummershow. Should the visiter ascend this hill, which is clad with firs to its very summit, on some fine clear day, his eyes will rest upon a diversified prospect of great extent. To the south and south-west are the vale and town of Cartmel (in which the ancient church or priory is easily distinguished), and the bay of Morecambe, with the adjacent coast of Low Furness; while to the north outstretches the lake with its group of islands, and the hills rising at its head, and extending far back, with swelling outlines that seem to hold communion with the skies. The road

from here runs principally through woods, never wandering far from the sinuous margin of the lake, and passes near to Gill Head, Storrs Hall, Belfield, and other villas more in the vicinity of Bowness.

From Bowness to Ambleside is a distance of six miles rich in its scenery and interesting in its associations. Not far from the village the road enters the woods of Rayrigg, and Rayrigg House is seen at the edge of the lake. Here William Wilberforce, whose exertions for the cause of humanity have made his name familiar to his countrymen, resided for several summers. Between this place and where the Kendal and Ambleside road is joined, are had those splendid views already spoken of in a preceding page. A mile from this junction is Troutbeck Bridge, near to which is Calgarth Park, an old building once inhabited by the Phillipsons. About a mile further is Ecclerigg Cottage (R. L. Watson, Esq.), not far from which are Holbeck (Miss Meyers), and, facing the lake, Low Wood Hotel, a place where a number of tourists take up their quarters, and which, from its situation, is admirably adapted for those who wish to make excursions in the neighbourhood.

*

Across the lake, Wray Castle, previously referred to, is a prominent object. A short distance above

* Not long ago in a window of this hall were deposited two human skulls, which were always looked upon by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood as being indestructible. They had, according to report, been often removed to a distance, or burnt to powder, and never failed to make their re-appearance unharmed, in the same window. The country people attributed their presence to various causes, the most popular being that some diabolical act had been committed here, and that these were the imperishable remnants of some murdered persons. On that account they were viewed with a strange kind of awe, and were visited by young and old for several miles round. This credulity, however, has now vanished, and the mouldering hand of time has done what it was once believed human efforts were unable to accomplish.